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Old 06-19-2021, 04:25 PM   #21
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The intake thru hull fitting turned out to be made of two casting with rivets connecting them. The majority of the thru hull, was pretty sound but the external stainer was not a replaceable item. There was no real danger due to this part but I would have never known without replacing it.

I fabricated a backing plate from 12 layers of mat and polyester resin, about 6" square. It is a little over 1/2 thick. The hull is about 1/2" thick is in the location of this thru hull so I had to cut the thru hull fitting down by about 1" to avoid the thru hull bottoming out when screwed into the Groco, triangular base straight thread to tapered thread adapter. I trilled and tapped the fiberglass backing plate for 5/16" treads (18 threads per inch). Between the flange thickness and the thickness of my backing plate, only about 3/4" bolts are needed, I couldn't find any this short at my local hardware store so I cut them down.

At the boat I sanded the inside of the hull clear of gel coat and flat and then laminated 3 layers of mat really wet and pressed my new backing plate on top, the light shining thru the hull allowed me to center it up. The hull required a little cleaning up on the outside as the gel coat had some cracking and wasn't flat. I ground it out and filled it in with some waxed gel coat thickened with colloidal silica. After sanding this flat, I redrilled my 2" hole and assembled with 5200 between the thru hull flange and the hull, pipe thread sealant on the treads of the thru hull and then 5200 between the Groco adapter and the backing plate that is now glasses to the hull. The thru hull treaded into the adapter is the primary clamping force to hold it all together but the three 5/16 bolts and 5200 holing the adapter to the inside of the hull is my backup plan. Not quite secure as a thru hull bolted directly thru the hull but I am comfortable with this set up.
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Old 06-19-2021, 04:51 PM   #22
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I got my new garboard in as well. It had been replaced at some point or at the very least remounted because the flange had 3 holes but there were 6 hole around the hole. They were wood or sheet metal screws, stainless but erroded from stray current. I oversized all six, filled them with thickened resin and capped it all with a layer of glass. After this cured, I drilled my hole and filed a notch for the keyway the casting has. The new flange had 4 screw holes and I mounted it with machine screws and 5200.
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Old 06-20-2021, 10:29 AM   #23
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You sure do first class work when you start a project! The fiberglass backing plate looks nice. I'm going to dig around and find a piece of glass already laid up to use as a plate for our new thru-hull. Maybe a piece of swimming pool skimmer cutout since I have a friend in the business. Regarding your new garboard drain, the self tapping screws will hold it in place until the 5200 kicks and then you won't have to worry about it ever coming loose!
Keep up the good work!
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:15 AM   #24
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I appreciate the encouragement Shawn. A cutout from a skimmer install would be perfect. I used some scraps of expanded PVC trim board that I had lying around the shop to make a dam around my layup and was surprised how well the polyester adhered to it, I expected to just pop them off easily by hand but I had to clamp each piece in the bench vise to pull them off. It would probably do just fine as a backing block, the original wood did just fine for 40 years.

The last of my hull projects was glassing in the aft bilge pump outlet which was just too low and plastic as well. I didn't do a good job of photographing this job, there is nothing really special about it, lots of other write ups on the web. I do have a shot of the dished out hole, you can see that it is below the bottom paint line, I will have to match the gel coat as well as touch up the boot stripe which is just annoying. I was tempted to replace with a bronze thru hull properly configured with a valve and running it through a vented loop but I am going a little cheaper and simpler with a marelon fitting about 14" higher up and a vented loop, and doing away with the check valve that is currently in the line.
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:33 AM   #25
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There was a recent thread on the forum about filling in holes debating going with smaller to larger or vice versa in patches. In my experience you really don't have an option of smaller to larger patches on small holes like this because the fibers are just too long. When I make patches, I tear them from the sheet to avoid hard edges which are hard to sand out. There is no way to have small patches stay within the area of the repair so don't even try. I wet out the bare glass on the boat, apply the patch, which will extend over the finished fiberglass, beyond the area of the repair, and I only wet out the inner section of mat and leave the excess just hanging out there, I usually apply 2 or three layers at a time and then when it sets, I remove the excess dry glass by grinding the edge of the patch just a little below the finished surface of the surrounding gel coat. When I am done grinding the excess material away, it effectively uses a large patch to smaller patch approach, even though the patches applied where all the same size. I patched this hole from both sides and did the majority of the build up from the inside of the hull to try and minimize the area of disturbance on the outside.

Then fill in the divot with gel coat thickened with cabosil, let this set, sand it smooth and apply my tinted gelcoat to match with a foam brush and wet sand and polish it out. It is easer said than done but one of the keys to success is not sanding too far out, burning through the surrounding gelcoat and increasing the size of your repair.
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Old 06-21-2021, 01:18 PM   #26
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Smile Just following along

I'm into a lifelong restoration project on my MK1 also. So, I too would like to follow along. While hauling up my anchor last fall, i noticed my windlass sinking into the deck....and the whole deck shaking. Realized it was the soft core so I tore up all my decks while at the dock, and replaced the plywood and re-glassed in the fiberglass deck i cut out. Then removed the deck on the flybridge, it had a soft spot and about a 4' x 8' wet spot. Left it all for the winter. I then installed a nice mount for my windless and raised platforms for my bollards and bow rail bases. Finished fairing and sanding the flybridge and laid down some Faux Teak EVA foam. So far the foam is holding up well and is very pleasant on the bare feet. So i also added it to my cockpit floor which used to get slippery when it got wet. Life is good now. Also upgraded the generator and use an induction cooktop now instead of butane. Other upgrades include, adding Auto pilot, Mantis anchor, large fridge and freezer where the stove used to live. Also cut a transom door, (HIGHLY recommended). Along with new thru hulls with re-routed intakes, repacked the rudder and shaft, new battery charger, all new plumbing for the fresh water system, cut a recess in the galley wall for my mini microwave. Lots of little things to make life a little easier. Not to mention all the engine work including cleaning the injectors (huge difference)!
The boat is really starting to come along. Decks have fairing compound on them, but I won't be sanding and painting till fall when its cooler. All in all it's been a lot of work but very rewarding. You'll get there eventually, happy to answer questions. Of course, my project will be on-going....doing some electroics upgrades too!!!
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:18 PM   #27
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Groco makes an external strainer/scoop that mounts a bronze ring on the bottom of the hull, and the strainer/scoop is mounted with screws so it is removeable. Doesn't allow clearing with a stick, but you can dive on it to remove the screen and clean it out.

https://www.groco.net/products/raw-w...iner/sc-series

If you do decide to add a scoop/strainer at some point, you might look into that series as a compromise on serviceability.
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Old 06-21-2021, 06:17 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by sbman View Post
Groco makes an external strainer/scoop that mounts a bronze ring on the bottom of the hull, and the strainer/scoop is mounted with screws so it is removeable. Doesn't allow clearing with a stick, but you can dive on it to remove the screen and clean it out.

https://www.groco.net/products/raw-w...iner/sc-series

If you do decide to add a scoop/strainer at some point, you might look into that series as a compromise on serviceability.
I liked and mounted several of these - mount the hinge forward.
https://www.groco.net/products/raw-w...ner/rsc-series
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:08 PM   #29
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OK here's my sad tale ..... Check your drains Mainship owners !!
Threads were completely gone. Nothing to hold the plug in. The yard said it 'crumbled' when they took it out to re-seal it.
Could have sunk the boat. Dodged a bullet !!
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:45 PM   #30
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That is sobering. My father's looked the same when I replaced his 4 or 5 years ago now. I thought I posted about it at the time but I should have reached out directly to you at the time.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:02 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by sbman View Post
Groco makes an external strainer/scoop that mounts a bronze ring on the bottom of the hull, and the strainer/scoop is mounted with screws so it is removeable. Doesn't allow clearing with a stick, but you can dive on it to remove the screen and clean it out.

https://www.groco.net/products/raw-w...iner/sc-series

If you do decide to add a scoop/strainer at some point, you might look into that series as a compromise on serviceability.
This does look like a great option, thanks for pointing it out. Might be something I add on the next haul out. In my area we rarely get large amounts of grass floating on the surface or suspended. I don't have any plans to venture very far with the boat this season but hopefully next season I will have finished going through the major systems and venturing further. When the boat comes back out of the water in the fall, I plan to have it soda blasted and left to dry out over the winter so I would probably just 5200 the ring to the barrier coat.

On Saturday, I was fortunate to have my father lend a hand in the yard for a pretty full day, he tackled the loose paint around the water line while I worked on my hull projects, I'm much closer to being ready to roll paint back on.

Last night I hit a couple minor snags assembling my engine intake plumbing. I ordered the wrong pipe thread to hose nipple adapter, 1.5" to 1.75" instead of the 1.5" to 1.5" that I need, I also realized that the hose between the thru hull and the strainer was 1.25" rather than 1.5", which is the size between the strainer and engine and then I believe the hose size running between the cooling components. So I'm remedying this situation of course with new hose and fittings on the strainer to stay 1.5" the whole way.

A short job or replacing my bilge pump hose turned into another unexpected ordeal. I removed and trashed the old one while cleaning the bilge, which is the only effective way I know to clean any sort of oily corrugated hose. The thru hull for the outlet is outboard of a large wooden battery box which houses 2 of my 4 group 31 batteries and the only way to reach it is disconnecting the batteries, unscrewing the 8 wood screws half with partially stripped heads. Apparently the last person to tackle this task took a shortcut and just spliced the bilge hose just inboard of the battery box rather than moving it, could have been the same genius who installed a 1.25" hose to feed a 1.5" cooling circuit. At any rate, that monkey business is now remedied with a new, continuous length of hose.

I also bit the bullet and ordered a new AC for the boat, the dometic unit on the boat, which is only about 5 years old, took a lot of abuse running with a loose connection in the shore power system as well as the 1.5 kw promariner inverter attempting to power the unit whenever left unattended and the shore power went out. I rewired the inverter to remedy this problem but it appears that permanent damage to the AC occurred. It will run for a while then start acting haywire, I'm not sure if the compressor is going out or something in the controls is damaged but at this point I'm replacing it with a Cruise Aire (with an "e") and will see about having the Dometic Unit repaired as a spare or to sell. My wife likes to use the boat as an office and I really need to prioritize her uses as I'm dumping a copious quantities of time and money at the boat.
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Old 06-22-2021, 12:48 PM   #32
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Hello ABL,
You mentioned you put in a transom door. That’s one of the last big projects I would like to tackle on my 1980 mainship34. I would be most interested in how you did it, what size door, and any lessons learned.
My biggest concern would be how it affects the structural integrity of the boat.
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Old 06-22-2021, 01:17 PM   #33
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OK here's my sad tale ..... Check your drains Mainship owners !!
Threads were completely gone. Nothing to hold the plug in. The yard said it 'crumbled' when they took it out to re-seal it.
Could have sunk the boat. Dodged a bullet !!
Yikes!!! Yep, I do believe you've wrangled all of the life out of that drain and then some.
Ours must've been replaced at some point if that T-handle is original equipment. We have a 1/2" NPT square-head plug that is mounted externally.
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Old 06-22-2021, 01:35 PM   #34
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Hello ABL,
You mentioned you put in a transom door. Thatís one of the last big projects I would like to tackle on my 1980 mainship34. I would be most interested in how you did it, what size door, and any lessons learned.
My biggest concern would be how it affects the structural integrity of the boat.
While we would love to have a transom door, there isn't even a small chance I would ever attempt to put one in our boat. Although replacing the decks & flybridge floor with 3/4 marine ply & multiple layers of biaxial glass stiffened her up to like new or better, a beam sea still causes the hull to twist slightly at the salon bulkhead, where you can watch the top corner between the glass of the door and the fixed glass open and close 1/4". We're talking Chesapeake Bay & Albemarle sound beam seas and most everyone knows there's no taming them! I'm not concerned because it's nothing structural failing and realize all boats "work" to different degrees but I wouldn't want to sacrifice any of the hulls integrity for the convenience of not having to climb over the transom!
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Old 06-22-2021, 01:53 PM   #35
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Hello ABL,
You mentioned you put in a transom door. Thatís one of the last big projects I would like to tackle on my 1980 mainship34. I would be most interested in how you did it, what size door, and any lessons learned.
My biggest concern would be how it affects the structural integrity of the boat.

I am interested in this modification as well, it is down my list of priorities. I have not fully adjusted to just how high the transom is, I have long legs but it is more of a climb over versus a step over. The mk2 and mk3 have a much lower transom and even without a door, it is easy to step over but my MK1 is a real hurtle.
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Old 06-22-2021, 02:02 PM   #36
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Thanks for the heads up on the drain plug, that will be first on my list when i haul out this winter.

Boomerang, can't say if my hull twists like you say because I'm on the flybridge during those 8 foot seas trying to keep her upright. (only happed a few times, but no notice of anything flexing) My wife is usually trying to avoid things flying around the cabin. Ha ha. That said, if you've done your decks, this will be an easy job for you!! I don't feel like much integrity has been lost. I probably would have sold the boat by now because it is such a pain climbing over all the time. Especially with a 50 pound dog, now it's a dream. I comment on the door at least once a trip. and it's good for older people when they come on board.
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Old 06-22-2021, 02:07 PM   #37
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I'll start a new thread for the transom door. Gdavid, you're doing an awesome job! Looking forward all your projects.
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Old 06-22-2021, 02:17 PM   #38
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Thanks for the heads up on the drain plug, that will be first on my list when i haul out this winter.

Boomerang, can't say if my hull twists like you say because I'm on the flybridge during those 8 foot seas trying to keep her upright. (only happed a few times, but no notice of anything flexing) My wife is usually trying to avoid things flying around the cabin. Ha ha. That said, if you've done your decks, this will be an easy job for you!! I don't feel like much integrity has been lost. I probably would have sold the boat by now because it is such a pain climbing over all the time. Especially with a 50 pound dog, now it's a dream. I comment on the door at least once a trip. and it's good for older people when they come on board.
Swing that door open for me 'cause I'm one of those older people! I didn't say I wouldn't use one, I'm just too much of a chicken to install one!
I'll watch 8' seas from the beach. More than 3' seas and my wife Liz would be calling the attorney to begin divorce proceedings. If she's not too busy throwing up.
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Old 06-22-2021, 02:24 PM   #39
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Ha ha! My wife loves the rolling more than I do! I say go for it, it's not as intimidating as drilling a hole for a bow thruster!!!!
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Old 06-22-2021, 02:40 PM   #40
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I've developed a reputation for traveling in inclement whether, working around a schedule dictated by vacation time, reservations and my kid's calendars. A schedule is the most dangerous thing to carry aboard and I'm trying to get better about this but my poor wife has been treated to some pretty nasty conditions in my father's old MK3. Nothing more that 4' but in the bay, a 4' chop with a short and nasty interval. When driving from the the lower helm, the fiberglass cap that forms the dash would shift about 1/8" to 1/4" relative to the companionway bulkhead. They are good boats with a really solid design for taking on head seas but they just weren't build to be passage makers.
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