Rudder Post seeping - no access

[Wwilme]

Last season our MS Pilot 30 showed a bit of seeping around the rudder post. Hoping to keep the lazarette dry this season I was going to tighten down the gland nut perhaps an eighth turn before spring launching and see if that did the trick. Unfortunately the jam nut is buried within the backer plate bolts and there is no wrench, large channel locks, pipe wrench, etc in my kit that will fit in there to loosen it. I know the brass is looking nasty in the picture, but I have since cleaned everything up with a wire brush and soaked the nuts. Someone suggested I just cut the front backer plate bolts off level with the jam nut. Anyone else have any experience or thoughts on the matter?

 

[Ken E.]

I had the same problem. I had a pipe wrench that would fit but the access to be able to torque the nut was really difficult. After consulting with the yard that I use, I had them install PSS seals, the same type seals I use on the engines. Problem solved, no leaks.

 

[guy with a boat]

I agree that you should cut the bolts off. The threads above the nuts don’t do anything except get in the way. They should have been shorter to start with or cut to size when installed. Whatever the shaft seal needs, it will be easier with those bolts out of the way.

 

[Comodave]

I would cut the bolts off. Then clean up the bonding system. I don’t like the bonding wire going in on one bolt and out on another bolt. It puts the piece of metal it is protecting into the bonding circuit. Since you are looking for less than 1 ohm of resistance in the bonding circuit going through the metal it is protecting can only add some resistance to the bonding circuit.

 

[Larry M]

As others of said, I’d cut the bolts off but first I’d put an other nut on the treaded part and thread it all the way down. Then I’d cut the tread sticking up above the nut you added. The added nut will act as a cutting guide and also clean the thread after the you’ve made the cut. After you’ve removed them you don’t need them and should have access to to the lower part of the gland.

 

[rgano]

As others of said, I’d cut the bolts off but first I’d put an other nut on the treaded part and thread it all the way down. Then I’d cut the tread sticking up above the nut you added. The added nut will act as a cutting guide and also clean the thread after the you’ve made the cut. After you’ve removed them you don’t need them and should have access to to the lower part of the gland.

Excellent advice. I am going out to check my own access, but my newer model Pilot II has much less vertical clearance due to prop tunnel.

 

[SoWhat]

A dremel with a mini cutoff wheel will work well to cut bolts. Nice idea to install another nut before the cut.

 

[Comodave]

I think that I might try a multi toolwith a carbide blade to cut off the bolts.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. Ww. As others have suggested, cut off the extra threads on the bolts. As far as having a "wrench" large enough to suitably grip the large nuts, there ARE wide jaw adjustable wrenches available that may suit your purposes. An example only:

https://www.amazon.com/DURATECH-10-...013ef6&pd_rd_wg=kaFZ4&pd_rd_i=B08G8SXGRB&th=1


I use pipe wrenches or vice grips on nuts/bolts ONLY as a last resort.