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Old 12-18-2021, 03:19 PM   #41
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If you read the rest of my posts you’ll see I ended up cutting the full width piece to install the port side piece then the next piece. The weight of the full width piece turned out to be too heavy.
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Old 12-19-2021, 08:03 AM   #42
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I didn't. I would suggest against that. When I purchased this boat there were several water leaks from the fly-bridge that i finally tracked down and sealed. Insulation would have held the water and probably created some serious mold issues.

Do you recall specifically where your leaks were coming from? When you took off the headliner were they pretty obvious?


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Old 12-19-2021, 08:07 AM   #43
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Well, there's no turning back now. Removed the ceiling lights and the window valence to clear the way for the new install. Need to remove the blinds as well. Pulled down the two strips to the port side to see what I am dealing with and I think the rest of the job will go well. I think I am going to use the old pieces as a pattern to cut the new pieces. I think Newtrawlerowner used the new vinyl in it's full width but I am thinking it will be easier to work with with the more narrow strips. That's the way the factory did it.

It's really not that hard of a job and I was worried about it so thanks to NTO for being the pioneer and posting the excellent descriptions.

I found in my local Target these OXO cake knives which I think will be just the ticket to tuck in the curves around the cabinet.

Looking good so far Gary! Please keep us updated as your project progresses.


Are you going to switch out the lights? Also, did you stick with a cream color or change to white?


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Old 12-19-2021, 09:55 AM   #44
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Replacing Headiner in a Mainship 400

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I didn't. I would suggest against that. When I purchased this boat there were several water leaks from the fly-bridge that i finally tracked down and sealed. Insulation would have held the water and probably created some serious mold issues.

You did a wonderful job with your headliner replacement.
However regarding to your statement, I totally disagree. The job of insulation is to make your boat more comfortable against outside temperatures. The job of the flybridge is to keep the water out. The job of the owner is to seal leaks in the flybridge.
We certainly donít NOT insulate boats and houses because weíre afraid that there may be a leak one day that will cause mold to grow.
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Old 12-19-2021, 10:07 AM   #45
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You did a wonderful job with your headliner replacement.
However regarding to your statement, I totally disagree. The job of insulation is to make your boat more comfortable against outside temperatures. The job of the flybridge is to keep the water out. The job of the owner is to seal leaks in the flybridge.
We certainly donít NOT insulate boats and houses because weíre afraid that there may be a leak one day that will cause mold to grow.
I agree with you however you have to agree that a well-insulated ceiling may take a long time, if ever, to reveal a small leak. At that point you mya have a reall mess to deal with. However, it depends on when and where you boat. If you are not often in extreme heat or cold for long periods, it may not be worth bothering.
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Old 12-19-2021, 12:55 PM   #46
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Looking good so far Gary! Please keep us updated as your project progresses.


Are you going to switch out the lights? Also, did you stick with a cream color or change to white?


Thanks,
Doug
I ended up ordering Ivory Flexa vinyl. To be honest, I haven't even unwrapped it to look at the color, but it's probably a shade lighter than the original. I am keeping the lights, not that I love them but I have to pick my battles and due to time/money constraints I don't have them on the priority list.

I just need a "warm" day here in the mid-atlantic to finish the job, something over 50 or so I'd guess.

Also, thanks for the update on the coolant drain, no wonder I couldn't see it behind the overflow reservoir!
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Old 12-20-2021, 09:48 AM   #47
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Do you recall specifically where your leaks were coming from? When you took off the headliner were they pretty obvious?


Thanks,
Doug



Obvious when raining hard. No so much with a light rain. Rain doesn't leave a stain trail to follow.

I found 2 leaks. One was from the courtesy light, starboard side under the rear bench seat. The water was leaking around the light and following the wire. Look under the seat locker. Finding this leak took multiple tries with a garden hose. The second leak was from the fly-bridge helm. Water runs down the face of the upper deck around the hinge the instrument panel is attached to. There was a drip channel I had removed and intended to replace. I did finally replace it. The water from this leak was migrating to the middle of the main salon.
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Old 12-27-2021, 11:10 AM   #48
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The overall length is 15 feet so you'll need 10 yards of material. About $70 plus shipping.
As it turning out that each run should be done individually, is the material required estimate still good?

Thanks....

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Old 12-27-2021, 12:48 PM   #49
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As it turning out that each run should be done individually, is the material required estimate still good?

Thanks....

Skip
Tampa

The short answer is yes. I would buy 11 yards.
The length of each piece is 15 feet. Because the width of most vinyl is 54" you will need a total of 30 feet or 10 yards. I would buy 1 extra yard so each piece is a little more than 15 feet long.
The combined width of the port side from the outside track to the middle track is under 52Ē with the starboard side just under 53Ē.

I would cut 1 piece 16' long. Then cut the port side run that is about 24" wide. The outside pieces are narrower than the inside pieces. You'll want the width to be 1-2 inches wider than measured to give yourself enough material to pull it tight as you push it into the track.

If you look at my post dated 3/18/21 you see a diagram that I made of the ceiling showing the width from the outside to the middle tracks.
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Old 12-27-2021, 12:55 PM   #50
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Thanks for the info.

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Old 01-04-2022, 03:20 PM   #51
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Main stateroom headliner

Does anyone know how to remove the headliner under the deck walkway in the main stateroom? You know, around the perimeter of the bow where there is a walkway which creates a lower ceiling in the stateroom. There are screws at the end of each ďpanelĒ and it appears that if you remove the screws, the panel will come down, but itís not coming down easily and I donít want to force it and break it. I donít think the track method is used here, the seem like panels with vinyl attached. Kind of seems like the vinyl from the lower bow sidewall wraps up and is stapled to the top of the removable panel
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Old 01-04-2022, 04:11 PM   #52
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Does anyone know how to remove the headliner under the deck walkway in the main stateroom? You know, around the perimeter of the bow where there is a walkway which creates a lower ceiling in the stateroom. There are screws at the end of each ďpanelĒ and it appears that if you remove the screws, the panel will come down, but itís not coming down easily and I donít want to force it and break it. I donít think the track method is used here, the seem like panels with vinyl attached. Kind of seems like the vinyl from the lower bow sidewall wraps up and is stapled to the top of the removable panel
I am in the process of replacing all vinyl in v- berth now.
Those panels are held in place by the vinyl pushed into a track that is screwed into the face of the panel AND 1or 2 screws at the forward end of each panel.
I found that when they built the boat, they stapled the vinyl and foam to the topside of this panel, then pushed it into place and screwed as I just described.
Removing it will require cutting the vinyl and foam.
BTW there is almost no way of removing that panel without replacing the vinyl and foam on the hull.

Neither are glued down. Iíll post in-process pictures so you can see what I did.
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Old 01-04-2022, 08:27 PM   #53
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I am in the process of replacing all vinyl in v- berth now.
Those panels are held in place by the vinyl pushed into a track that is screwed into the face of the panel AND 1or 2 screws at the forward end of each panel.
I found that when they built the boat, they stapled the vinyl and foam to the topside of this panel, then pushed it into place and screwed as I just described.
Removing it will require cutting the vinyl and foam.
BTW there is almost no way of removing that panel without replacing the vinyl and foam on the hull.

Neither are glued down. I’ll post in-process pictures so you can see what I did.
Thanks, it would be much appreciated. I really hope we don’t have to cut the vinyl and foam and replace the vinyl on the hull! Is it possible that we can leave it attached on the outboard side and hinge it down so we can access the area? We have a leak I suspect is coming in from the rubrail. You can see it on the wood in the right side of my picture, up in the back corner under the vinyl
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Old 01-04-2022, 09:33 PM   #54
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Thanks, it would be much appreciated. I really hope we donít have to cut the vinyl and foam and replace the vinyl on the hull! Is it possible that we can leave it attached on the outboard side and hinge it down so we can access the area? We have a leak I suspect is coming in from the rubrail. You can see it on the wood in the right side of my picture, up in the back corner under the vinyl

You probably can remove the panel without the vinyl and foam, but I don't know how you will be able to see anything. You will also more than likely damage the vertical vinyl panel between the lower wood piece and the upper headliner. In my case I was planning on replacing so I didn't need to be too careful and the vinyl was old and tore pretty easily. Not so when the foam is with it.

Here are some pictures of my process. I completed the side panels and the underside wood panels. I have not installed the vertical piece of vinyl or headliner. If you look at picture with me holding the staple gun, I'm stapling the vinyl to the starboard horizontal panel before I push it up into place. That's where I think you're going to have some challenges reinstalling.



Its difficult to communicate the challenges I had doing this. Removing the old vinyl was not as easy as it might seem due to the way they installed it initially. I ended up completely removing the port hanging locker and laying it up on the bed frame.
I glued wood strips to staple the new material to below the floor and up the hull behind the headboard. You can see the stapled material in one of the pictures. I included a picture inside the starboard hanging locker. If you look you can see that they used fiberglass to attach the locker to the hull. I had to drill holes in that piece to remove the staples that held the old material. Then push the new foam and vinyl into this same seam and finally staple it in place. Overall I'm extremely pleased with the final results. But this project like the main salon headliner was by no means easy.
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Forward V-Birth9.jpg   Forward V-Birth10.jpg   Forward V-Birth11.jpg   Forward V-Birth12.jpg  
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Old 01-04-2022, 10:26 PM   #55
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You probably can remove the panel without the vinyl and foam, but I don't know how you will be able to see anything. You will also more than likely damage the vertical vinyl panel between the lower wood piece and the upper headliner. In my case I was planning on replacing so I didn't need to be too careful and the vinyl was old and tore pretty easily. Not so when the foam is with it.

Here are some pictures of my process. I completed the side panels and the underside wood panels. I have not installed the vertical piece of vinyl or headliner. If you look at picture with me holding the staple gun, I'm stapling the vinyl to the starboard horizontal panel before I push it up into place. That's where I think you're going to have some challenges reinstalling.



Its difficult to communicate the challenges I had doing this. Removing the old vinyl was not as easy as it might seem due to the way they installed it initially. I ended up completely removing the port hanging locker and laying it up on the bed frame.
I glued wood strips to staple the new material to below the floor and up the hull behind the headboard. You can see the stapled material in one of the pictures. I included a picture inside the starboard hanging locker. If you look you can see that they used fiberglass to attach the locker to the hull. I had to drill holes in that piece to remove the staples that held the old material. Then push the new foam and vinyl into this same seam and finally staple it in place. Overall I'm extremely pleased with the final results. But this project like the main salon headliner was by no means easy.
Thanks so much for the pictures. I suspect the leak is from the rubrail in vicinity of port light. So you donít think Iíd be able to see the deck/hull interface to apply some sealant? Too cold (teens to 20s this week) to take off rubrail and seal from the outside
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Old 01-05-2022, 09:56 AM   #56
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Thanks so much for the pictures. I suspect the leak is from the rubrail in vicinity of port light. So you donít think Iíd be able to see the deck/hull interface to apply some sealant? Too cold (teens to 20s this week) to take off rubrail and seal from the outside

On my boat that void was filled with something like a hard foam piece that you will need to remove. Its like that expandable foam. There is not much room to get up there and see anything. Maybe with a mirror and light. If your leak is from the port hole window you'll need to remove that vertical piece of vinyl anyway. There is a trim ring around the window that you can unscrew. If the leak is from that you may be able to see that. The vinyl is stapled to a wood panel that the window is mounted in. Look at the picture here you can see the port window. The trim is removed.
I can easily imagine the window leaking, water runs down the hull to the lower wood panel that is tilted to the aft. But again you'll want to remove the vinyl to see the hull below the window.
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Old 01-05-2022, 10:51 AM   #57
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Thanks, it would be much appreciated. I really hope we donít have to cut the vinyl and foam and replace the vinyl on the hull! Is it possible that we can leave it attached on the outboard side and hinge it down so we can access the area? We have a leak I suspect is coming in from the rubrail. You can see it on the wood in the right side of my picture, up in the back corner under the vinyl
If you suspect rubrail I wouldn't attack it from inside. The easier and best way is from outside. See Bacchus website... Projects Pg 4 for details and a link.
Very common on Mainships and others to leak at runrail.
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Old 01-05-2022, 10:57 AM   #58
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Thanks so much for the pictures. I suspect the leak is from the rubrail in vicinity of port light. So you donít think Iíd be able to see the deck/hull interface to apply some sealant? Too cold (teens to 20s this week) to take off rubrail and seal from the outside
For a temporary fix I have had very good luck with foil faced tape. It conforms well to shapes and sticks well. I have used it at times for trying to find a leak source by coving areas sequentially. Once found it can be an effective temp solution until time, Wx etc permits a more permanent fix.
The deck to rubrail intersection is the place where the water enters so focus on that intersection. Drilling a few drain holes in the bottom of the C shaped PVC piece helps drain any water before it can get through the joint or screw holes.
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Old 01-05-2022, 02:06 PM   #59
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Thanks for the info.

Skip
Tampa
Hey Skip, you should order at least 11 yards, maybe 12. I just rolled out my 10 yards in my basement to cut the vinyl using the old items as a pattern and I ended up short as I had bought exactly 10 yards. The problem, at least with my situation, is that on the starboard side the run is not continuous from the door to bow. There's a narrow piece above the galley and another wider piece above the helm. Above the helm the piece there is wider than 27" so, unlike to other strips, you can't get two pieces out of a 54" wide roll of vinyl like all the others. If I had another yard I might have had enough to nest it into the remaining vinyl, but with two more yards I would have had plenty.

My advice is to get 12 yards to be safe or carefully measure the existing pieces and lay the dimensions out on a grid or CAD system to see if you can get by with 11 yards.
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Old 01-05-2022, 05:08 PM   #60
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If you suspect rubrail I wouldn't attack it from inside. The easier and best way is from outside. See Bacchus website... Projects Pg 4 for details and a link.
Very common on Mainships and others to leak at runrail.
Thank you, I have already looked at your website in researching this. Very good information, thank you for making it available for all of us. I donít think I can address it from the outside in this weather...probably going to have to wait for spring.
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