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Old 11-19-2019, 09:24 AM   #21
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Bay Retriever: what are you going to do about accessing core under the fibreglass furniture ? Also, if your deck has white painted perimeter edges and boundaries which are free from non skid, when the upper deck layer is removed do they stand off those smooth boundary borders or cut them out with the rest of the top layer ?


The core material under the fiberglass furniture will not be excavated because not much moisture damage was found. Also, the smooth transition boundary borders around the furniture bases will be sanded down and beveled into to fiberglass skin thatís being reused.
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:07 AM   #22
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. Also, the smooth transition boundary borders around the furniture bases will be sanded down and beveled into to fiberglass skin thatís being reused.
Will those smooth boundary borders be preserved and repainted or will they disappear under the new non skid?
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Old 11-19-2019, 11:57 AM   #23
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We found the source for the water penetrating the headliner in the salon (port side). Water made its way into the seat compartments on the fly bridge during the heavy rain/snow we had a week ago here on Mobjack Bay.

Below is a picture of the drain hole inside the seat compartment. Water penetrated between the outer fly bridge skin and the inner seat compartment skin. My fiberglass technicians plan to reseal the drain hole so it doesnít happen again.
That's good to know, even though I have a full enclosure up there I think I'll try to seal those drain holes as well.
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Old 11-19-2019, 05:17 PM   #24
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Will those smooth boundary borders be preserved and repainted or will they disappear under the new non skid?


We are using the old skin as Itís in pretty good shape. I checked with other repair yards. The technique for reusing the fly bridge skin is becoming more and more common. Some fiber glass techs still prefer to lay new fiberglass and put down a new non skid pattern. In my case, most of the old non skid will be used as is. In certain areas, like the entry way, new transition seams will be created based on the fact that some of the old fiberglass skin has to be replaced and the non skid will be repatterned using the same Mainship diamond pattern.
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:37 AM   #25
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Y'all are scaring the crap out of me. What warning signs did you get that you were having core issues? Ours checked out fine with a moisture meter (which I know aren't infallible) when we bought it in 2013. I haven't worried about it much since.


I'm thinking I'll pull up the rail from around the stairs and epoxy/rebed the screws with butul tape. When you are talking about the table do you mean the table in the main part of the FB or the small table on the aft FB deck?


Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2019, 10:48 AM   #26
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Probably the only warning will be a wet core. No real good way to tell it is happening until it is too late. Maybe an infrared camera will show the moisture but if it shows moisture it is probably too late. I would take all the screws and fittings loose and epoxy fill the holes and redrill and bed with butyl. Better do a small bedding job before it turns into a giant job of recoring.
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Old 11-20-2019, 10:59 AM   #27
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Y'all are scaring the crap out of me. What warning signs did you get that you were having core issues? Ours checked out fine with a moisture meter (which I know aren't infallible) when we bought it in 2013. I haven't worried about it much since.


I'm thinking I'll pull up the rail from around the stairs and epoxy/rebed the screws with butul tape. When you are talking about the table do you mean the table in the main part of the FB or the small table on the aft FB deck?


Thanks.


The FB table had been taken out by a prior owner. It is now obvious that the screws holding the table down was the source of moisture getting into the fly bridge core and ultimately rotted out the FB entry way all the way back to the stairs.

The table on the sun deck was spared moisture damage as the water could not thankfully travel past the stairs because there is a ďfiberglass bulkheadĒ just behind the mast.
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:38 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Dougcole View Post
Y'all are scaring the crap out of me. What warning signs did you get that you were having core issues? Ours checked out fine with a moisture meter (which I know aren't infallible) when we bought it in 2013. I haven't worried about it much since.


I'm thinking I'll pull up the rail from around the stairs and epoxy/rebed the screws with butul tape. When you are talking about the table do you mean the table in the main part of the FB or the small table on the aft FB deck?


Thanks.
Doug, my glass guy said it was from the folding table was screwed to the floor. Apparently they just screwed through the skin into the balsa. He epoxied it real well when he did the repairs. He also said the stanchion at the top of the stairs had the same problem. It can't hurt to bed all the penetrations on the upper deck including the round table. If you have the time and skill to do so, I would follow Steve D'Antonio's process and the deck should never have a problem, at least from those water sources.
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Old 11-20-2019, 06:02 PM   #29
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When you say he epoxied it real well, did he reef out the coring and fill with thickened epoxy?
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Old 11-20-2019, 06:27 PM   #30
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I'll take every opportunity I can to remind TF readers of this simple truism where cored composite is concerned, never rely on caulk, sealant, bedding etc to keep water out of cored structures. Caulk is a temporary affair, it dries out and fails, sometimes in a year, sometimes in 7 or 10 years, but in most deck cases it eventually will leak.

This article goes into some detail on the subject. https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/c...deck-hardware/

(Attending the Marine Equipment Trade Show, Amsterdam, the Netherlands)
Hi Steve. Thanks so much for your thorough article regarding composite deck hardware, hardware bedding, coring, etc. Much good stuff here!

Regards,

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Old 11-20-2019, 06:43 PM   #31
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Doug, my glass guy said it was from the folding table was screwed to the floor. Apparently they just screwed through the skin into the balsa. He epoxied it real well when he did the repairs. He also said the stanchion at the top of the stairs had the same problem. It can't hurt to bed all the penetrations on the upper deck including the round table. If you have the time and skill to do so, I would follow Steve D'Antonio's process and the deck should never have a problem, at least from those water sources.
Yep, that job, unlike AC electrical (lol) is well within my skill set. I think I will start with the folding table.

I assume you removed the entire stair rail? I'm wondering how much play there is under that one stanchion if I remove the screws. It might be hard to get to the holes to bore out the core without taking off the rail. I saw on Stella blue that that stanchion is a problem spot, though mine feels solid with no cracks around it.
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Old 11-21-2019, 04:18 AM   #32
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Y'all are scaring the crap out of me. What warning signs did you get that you were having core issues? Ours checked out fine with a moisture meter (which I know aren't infallible) when we bought it in 2013. I haven't worried about it much since.


I'm thinking I'll pull up the rail from around the stairs and epoxy/rebed the screws with butul tape. When you are talking about the table do you mean the table in the main part of the FB or the small table on the aft FB deck?


Thanks.
Wet core is not necessarily a death sentence. Rick Strand, a composite specialist, did some testing on this a few years ago and wrote a detailed article about it for ProBoat. In short, what he determined was if the core was wet but not deteriorating, the problem could be arrested if no new water, and the mold spores and bacteria it brings with it, was allowed to enter, it could arrest the problem. There are varying degrees of "wet", core that feels dry to the touch, and core that is dripping wet, can both register 100 on the Tramex meter relative scale. 100 on that scale is only 1.5% moisture by weight. If the core is wet and exposed to freezing temperatures, that's another mater as it can expand and delaminate the skins. Some small destructive testing is required to make the determination of just how wet the core actually is if it has registered in the red on the meter.

Once again, proper closeout, sealing the core with an epoxy annulus for existing improperly closed out core, and not re-bedding, is the only permanent solution to this problem.

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Old 11-21-2019, 09:26 AM   #33
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When you say he epoxied it real well, did he reef out the coring and fill with thickened epoxy?
Yes, he dug out a square where the table was screwed down and refilled with thickened epoxy...said it would never leak again.
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Old 11-21-2019, 09:32 AM   #34
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Yep, that job, unlike AC electrical (lol) is well within my skill set. I think I will start with the folding table.

I assume you removed the entire stair rail? I'm wondering how much play there is under that one stanchion if I remove the screws. It might be hard to get to the holes to bore out the core without taking off the rail. I saw on Stella blue that that stanchion is a problem spot, though mine feels solid with no cracks around it.
Yes, Stella Blue has some good info on that trouble spot at the top of the stairs. If your deck doesn't feel mushy, you might be okay. I knew right away when I bought the boat that we had a problem to fix; it was obviously soft and mushy when you walked on it.

Speaking of electrical, did you ever see the Red Pearl website and look at the issue with the shore power voltage? I am experiencing the very same issue and plan on installing a transfer switch like they did to boost the voltage. At my home marina I only see about 100 volts but get 120 on the generator and most other marinas.
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Old 11-21-2019, 02:32 PM   #35
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Yes, Stella Blue has some good info on that trouble spot at the top of the stairs. If your deck doesn't feel mushy, you might be okay. I knew right away when I bought the boat that we had a problem to fix; it was obviously soft and mushy when you walked on it.

Speaking of electrical, did you ever see the Red Pearl website and look at the issue with the shore power voltage? I am experiencing the very same issue and plan on installing a transfer switch like they did to boost the voltage. At my home marina I only see about 100 volts but get 120 on the generator and most other marinas.

OK, thanks a ton for the info. My decks feel very sound underfoot. My boat has had a full enclosure on it since new, I wonder if that has made a difference. It only had one owner prior to us, we bought it in 2013, and he barely used the boat. Engines had 160 hours on them and the genset had less than 50. The mattresses were still wrapped in plastic. Basically, the boat just sat on the hard with the FB enclosure zipped up for 8 years so I don't think that area got wet very often. It was pretty darn dirty when I bought it, so I don't think they even hosed it down much.



I don't think I've seen the Red Pearl website, though I would be interested in it if you have a link.


I'm really bad at AC electrical, so TIFWIW, but that sounds like a marina issue not a boat issue, correct?
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Old 11-21-2019, 03:07 PM   #36
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OK, thanks a ton for the info. My decks feel very sound underfoot. My boat has had a full enclosure on it since new, I wonder if that has made a difference. It only had one owner prior to us, we bought it in 2013, and he barely used the boat. Engines had 160 hours on them and the genset had less than 50. The mattresses were still wrapped in plastic. Basically, the boat just sat on the hard with the FB enclosure zipped up for 8 years so I don't think that area got wet very often. It was pretty darn dirty when I bought it, so I don't think they even hosed it down much.



I don't think I've seen the Red Pearl website, though I would be interested in it if you have a link.


I'm really bad at AC electrical, so TIFWIW, but that sounds like a marina issue not a boat issue, correct?
Having a full enclosure helped, no doubt. Mine had just a bimini with no side windows so rain washed the upper deck unless it came straight down.

Sounds like you hit the jackpot with that purchase.

Here is the Red Pearl link: https://sway.office.com/F0aSm8VOnaj0iz58?ref=Link

Hopefully it works.
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Old 11-21-2019, 11:30 PM   #37
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Having a full enclosure helped, no doubt. Mine had just a bimini with no side windows so rain washed the upper deck unless it came straight down.

Sounds like you hit the jackpot with that purchase.

Here is the Red Pearl link: https://sway.office.com/F0aSm8VOnaj0iz58?ref=Link

Hopefully it works.

That's an awesome site, thanks for the link. Man, that is a nice 400, I thought I'd done a lot of work to my boat, but now not so much.
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Old 11-25-2019, 05:00 AM   #38
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Bay Retriever: when the top skin of 'f/glass is re-fixed, how are the seams between the removed skin and the remaining skin being joined? Will they be f'glass taped together or just butt-jointed, with a new non-skid coating covering all the patches? And have you made a decision yet about what non-skid to put over all? KiwiGrip or ...?
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Old 11-25-2019, 07:42 AM   #39
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The edge of the old skin will be sanded and beveled so that new resin and fiberglass can create a seemless transition all around the edges were the skin was cut out. I anticipate that much tech skill goes into finishing, which is something I donít have time to acquire.
Virtually all of the old non-skid is useable as the old skin was cut out along the transition border. There may be a few small areas where the techs will be laying down/replacing non skid using a diamond pattern template that is common to Mainships.

Will try to load a few pics taken the other day after the replacement core had been glued to the flybridge. The replacement core is made of a non-porous material that is light in weight. They hope to get the skin on by early December so I can troll for Rockfish before in-water winterizing before the holidays!
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Old 11-25-2019, 09:45 AM   #40
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The edge of the old skin will be sanded and beveled so that new resin and fiberglass can create a seemless transition all around the edges were the skin was cut out. I anticipate that much tech skill goes into finishing, which is something I donít have time to acquire.
Virtually all of the old non-skid is useable as the old skin was cut out along the transition border. There may be a few small areas where the techs will be laying down/replacing non skid using a diamond pattern template that is common to Mainships.

Will try to load a few pics taken the other day after the replacement core had been glued to the flybridge. The replacement core is made of a non-porous material that is light in weight. They hope to get the skin on by early December so I can troll for Rockfish before in-water winterizing before the holidays!
Once you get this done you will have a very fine trawler that I am sure you will enjoy. We love ours.
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