Cabin flooring - replacing carpet

[tiz]

I have removed the interior carpet on our 2001 390. Now the search begins for teak/Holley synthetic -vinyl flooring to replace the carpet. Forward cabin, guest cabin, hallway and stairs.

Wondering 1) if anyone has done this and your experience, products, sources videos, etc and 2) possible installers in Connecticut (Shelton ct at the moment).

—Kevin

[READY]

I made up snap in Infinity woven vinyl flooring. Purchased off Amazon. Not hard to do and really easy to clean. Second boat I have done this on. Not slippery like vinyl flooring can be and easy to replace in the future. Saved thousands over the quote I received. I have not tackled the stairs yet.

[Bacchus]

Kevin
Here's the link to what I dud / used for the fwd cabin.
Very satisfied, not too difficult as a DIY.
I really like the feel of the cushion layer under the vinyl... wish our saloon had it as well. For odd shapes & cuts I'd recommend patterning & considering having the factory cut it. Glad I did that in my fwd cabin as there are few straight lines and no 90° corners. Next best is pattern and do cutting yourself.

Pm me if you have specific questions to be sure I see it.
My Bacchus website has several Maibship project write-ups.

[tiz]

Originally Posted by Bacchus

Kevin
Here's the link to what I dud / used for the fwd cabin.
Very satisfied, not too difficult as a DIY.
I really like the feel of the cushion layer under the vinyl... wish our saloon had it as well. For odd shapes & cuts I'd recommend patterning & considering having the factory cut it. Glad I did that in my fwd cabin as there are few straight lines and no 90° corners. Next best is pattern and do cutting yourself.

Pm me if you have specific questions to be sure I see it.
My Bacchus website has several Maibship project write-ups.

I used the bacchus link and find your page, but no interior/fwd flooring project. Lots of great projects there. You’re ambitious!

Ready: we’re going with teak/holly vinyl if at all possible. Thanks anyway.

—Kevin

[Bacchus]

Originally Posted by tiz

I used the bacchus link and find your page, but no interior/fwd flooring project. Lots of great projects there. You’re ambitious!



Ready: we’re going with teak/holly vinyl if at all possible. Thanks anyway.



—Kevin

Kevin
My apologies... forgot to attach the TF link for that project. Haven't gotten around to adding it to my website.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/...ad.php?t=46119

[Ka_sea_ta]

When I changed from carpet to wood flooring (3/8 inch prefinished Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry) or poor man's teak) The finish was installed at the factory and has held up extremely well. Initially I wanted to install Amtico vinyl plank but the cost was just over 5 times the amount to install the Jatoba. I have some wood working skills so I did install the wood flooring but the Amtico installation still including me doing the prep work and installing the underlayment.. I did this a few years ago and the floor still looks the same.

[tiz]

Bacchus- thanks!! Your subfloor was fiberglass? Mine is wood with some hard angles between flat floor and side edges where floor meets hull. Might need a solution to make those more gradual.

Ka_se_ta- amazing. Wish i had wood skills but im saddled with a measure twice, cut it wrong anyway skill set.

--kevin

[Bacchus]

Kevin
A few pics might prompt some ideas.
Yes my fwd cabin is fiberglas subfloor. Cleanup of old carpet adhesive was a chore but could break it up in manageable pieces.

[Osprey69]

Pulling up my salon carpet and putting in engineered "snap" flooring. Couple O' questions;

Hoping adhesive will not be too tenuous. Scrape away or is there a more civilized means of adhesive removal?

I assume I will install a cushioning mat between fiberglass floor and new flooring. Any suggestion as to mat thickness?

Thanks in advance.

[Bacchus]

Originally Posted by Osprey69

Pulling up my salon carpet and putting in engineered "snap" flooring. Couple O' questions;

Hoping adhesive will not be too tenuous. Scrape away or is there a more civilized means of adhesive removal?

I assume I will install a cushioning mat between fiberglass floor and new flooring. Any suggestion as to mat thickness?

Thanks in advance.

I found a heat gun and stiff / sharp scraper worked well... better than solvent or trying course sandpaper. I could then do final cleanup with sander or solvent where necessary.
The PkasTeak cushion / pad seemed to work very well for me but my top layer could flex giving a fairly soft feel to the combo. I would guess with engineered flooring you won't get much flex or safer feel. Are you simply looking to take up any variation in the subfloor or provide insulation?

[Osprey69]

Originally Posted by Bacchus

I found a heat gun and stiff / sharp scraper worked well... better than solvent or trying course sandpaper. I could then do final cleanup with sander or solvent where necessary.
The PkasTeak cushion / pad seemed to work very well for me but my top layer could flex giving a fairly soft feel to the combo. I would guess with engineered flooring you won't get much flex or safer feel. Are you simply looking to take up any variation in the subfloor or provide insulation?

Thanks for the heat gun/scraper tip. Until I pull the carpet back I will not know what variations there will be if at all. And I just thought it would be a damper between hard fiberglass and hard new floor with insulation as a side benefit as well.

[Bacchus]

Originally Posted by Osprey69

Thanks for the heat gun/scraper tip. Until I pull the carpet back I will not know what variations there will be if at all. And I just thought it would be a damper between hard fiberglass and hard new floor with insulation as a side benefit as well.

PlasTeak will send a sample to review the cushion. Using the PlasTeak and cushion and having them cut both to my pattern I was able to eliminate the need to install trim molding around a hatch. Theyvadvused / and I did use a colored Sharpie to darken the whiteish edge of the pad to minimize any visibility.
The factory cutting to my pattern was excellent and the gap VERY small.

[Deano]

I used Lonwood teak and holly eight years ago and still looks like new. We have a dog also.

[Islander2017]

I am currently in the process of replacing the carpet on my Camano 31. I'm using Nautikflor which is made in Switzerland and boat specific. Fully waterproof, click together and fairly easy to install with good anti slip qualities. I purchased it from Defender which had the best price I could find. I brought the engine hatches home so I had my table saw available for doing the maple trim and then reinstalled them for laying the floor.
Sorry for the sideways pictures. Not sure how to fix that.

[0025]

How did you address the floor hatches? I would like to replace the carpet on my salon, but I'm not sure how to cover the hatches without scratching and damaging the edges when opening and closing.

Thanks for any input.

Ron
390 Mainship
Mystic CT

[Islander2017]

The maple trim I made has a 3/4" overlap of the floor. I laid the flooring with about a 1/16" gap so the maple wouldn't catch on it. I still have to route out the space for the lift rings to sit. The beveled edge in the photo was cut off so it would fit flush with the floor surface.

[Pcpete]

We did our 38 Bayliner with teak and holly half inch plywood and couldn’t be happier. The finish is seven coats of SeaFin wet sanded in so the pours in the wood get filled creating a smooth finish. That part sounds like more work than it was.
The pictures were taken in process.

[Islander2017]

We considered using the teak and holly plywood, it looks great. The worry we had is with 2 dogs on the boat it would get scratched and I don't think the veneer will stand more than 1 sanding.

[LargeMarge]

Hypothetically:
* Is the product flammable/inflammable?
* What would it need to catch fire?
* What does it need to continue to burn?
* What equipment and supplies are required to stop its fire after it is burning?
* On the negligible-to-fatal scale, how do the fumes from its fire impact your ability to stop its fire?

[Islander2017]

Originally Posted by LargeMarge

Hypothetically:
* Is the product flammable/inflammable?
* What would it need to catch fire?
* What does it need to continue to burn?
* What equipment and supplies are required to stop its fire after it is burning?
* On the negligible-to-fatal scale, how do the fumes from its fire impact your ability to stop its fire?

If your referring to the Nautikflor I don't have those answers, but I'm sure you could find them on their website.