Adding Shut-Off Valve at fuel filter

[garmstro55]

I have the Separ fuel filters as shown and I would like to add a shut-off valve near the inlet of the filter. In the current configuration, when I go to change the filter by removing the lid, diesel wells up and overflows, even if I turn off the valve at the tank outlet. I have to catch it in a bucket and it makes a nice mess.

As seen on the lower left of the filter, the inlet is a 5/8" female o-ring boss threaded connection on the filter with what appears to be a 5/8" nipple threaded into it. Then, a pre-made fuel line runs over to the tank.

Ideally, I want to unscrew the pre-made hose and insert a ball valve in there. However, I have discovered that a 5/8" ball valve is hard to find, and any valve I have found is either in stainless or brass.

So, looking for suggestions as to how to accomplish this and also opinions as to whether it's ok to use brass in this application. I prefer not to cut the hose and use barbed connections unless that is the only option.

Also not interested in replacing with a Racor just yet, there are other, more pressing needs in the current budget.

 

[caltexflanc]

Brass is pretty much standard for fuel fittings. What's the concern?

 

[KnotYet]

I have the Separ fuel filters as shown and I would like to add a shut-off valve near the inlet of the filter. In the current configuration, when I go to change the filter by removing the lid, diesel wells up and overflows, even if I turn off the valve at the tank outlet. I have to catch it in a bucket and it makes a nice mess.

As seen on the lower left of the filter, the inlet is a 5/8" female o-ring boss threaded connection on the filter with what appears to be a 5/8" nipple threaded into it. Then, a pre-made fuel line runs over to the tank.

Ideally, I want to unscrew the pre-made hose and insert a ball valve in there. However, I have discovered that a 5/8" ball valve is hard to find, and any valve I have found is either in stainless or brass.

So, looking for suggestions as to how to accomplish this and also opinions as to whether it's ok to use brass in this application. I prefer not to cut the hose and use barbed connections unless that is the only option.

Also not interested in replacing with a Racor just yet, there are other, more pressing needs in the current budget.

5/8" is not a standard plumbing size. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" are more common.
Is it possible that you are measuring the O.D. of the fitting and not the I.D?
Tubing and tube fittings go by O.D. Hose and pipe sizes are based on I.D.

Another possibility is that it is a hydraulic coupling. You can get adapters that fit that.

If there are threads in the fuel filter housing, get a measurement or match that thread.

 

[garmstro55]

5/8" is not a standard plumbing size. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" are more common.
Is it possible that you are measuring the O.D. of the fitting and not the I.D?
Tubing and tube fittings go by O.D. Hose and pipe sizes are based on I.D.

I'm not measuring, it's from the manufacturer's literature and confirmed with a email I received from them.

 

[garmstro55]

Brass is pretty much standard for fuel fittings. What's the concern?

Usually bronze is preferred on a boat for most metal fittings, because brass has zinc in it and the zine can corrode from electrolysis. I wouldn't use brass on a thru-hull but I guess it's probably ok in a fuel system, but I wanted to get other opinions about it to be sure.

 

[KnotYet]

I'm not measuring, it's from the manufacturer's literature and confirmed with a email I received from them.

See if you can remove the adapter from the filter housing.
If it has tapered pipe threads then get a valve that is that size.
Street types are available that are FPT on one end and MPT on the other.

If the adapter is straight thread with oring, I would take it to a hydraulics shop and match that.
Hydraulic to pipe thread adapters are available to allow you to use a common 1/2" valve.

 

[caltexflanc]

Usually bronze is preferred on a boat for most metal fittings, because brass has zinc in it and the zine can corrode from electrolysis. I wouldn't use brass on a thru-hull but I guess it's probably ok in a fuel system, but I wanted to get other opinions about it to be sure.

Bronze is definitely a must for anything interacting directly with salt water.

You will find a number of non-salt water items are brass, such as oil change and fuel manifolds and many fresh water fittings. If you are paranoid, you could always go with stainless, but what is that filter housing made of? If aluminum you should use something like Tef Gel regardless, especially with stainless.

 

[johnma]

5/8" is not a standard plumbing size. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" are more common.
Is it possible that you are measuring the O.D. of the fitting and not the I.D?
Tubing and tube fittings go by O.D. Hose and pipe sizes are based on I.D.

Another possibility is that it is a hydraulic coupling. You can get adapters that fit that.

If there are threads in the fuel filter housing, get a measurement or match that thread.

5/8 is a standard hydraulic size. In the industry it is known as #10. I doubt you’ll find a #10 ball valve. Probably best to get a 3/4 or #12 and get adapter fittings to go to # 10.

 

[johnma]

I have the same Separ /Algea-X filter you do. I keep a gallon plastic water bottle that I have cut in half and use that to drain fuel out of the bottom after shutting the valves at the tank. Works fine, no mess. I drain it several times a year to inspect for water so I just change the element one of those times.

 

[sunchaser]

Gar
By all means add the new shutoff valve. But it sounds like you have a bad existing valve (what kind is it?) already or a cross over line open.

 

[garmstro55]

I have the same Separ /Algea-X filter you do. I keep a gallon plastic water bottle that I have cut in half and use that to drain fuel out of the bottom after shutting the valves at the tank. Works fine, no mess. I drain it several times a year to inspect for water so I just change the element one of those times.

Cheez, why didn't I think of that! Probably the easiest and definitely the cheapest solution.

 

[Dougcole]

Mine are Racors, so I can't help with the fittings, but I added ball valves to both my filters. It was totally worth it. I used the jug method before I added them, it's way better than nothing, but I sometimes still managed to make a mess. It's nice to be able to cut off the fuel flow at the filter.


I did this job when I was having one of my tanks repaired. The tank guy got the fittings for me.

 

[Comodave]

You might check, but I think ABYC recommendations say not to attach the shutoff to the filter. I think they are supposed to be supported by means other than the pipe, like screwed to a board or bulkhead.

 

[Pmcsurf1]

I have the same Separ /Algea-X filter you do. I keep a gallon plastic water bottle that I have cut in half and use that to drain fuel out of the bottom after shutting the valves at the tank. Works fine, no mess. I drain it several times a year to inspect for water so I just change the element one of those times.

I do the same. I shut off both tanks valves and drain first bit into cup. This has the water and the crud. Maybe a half of a cup. Then I drain out the remainder of the filter. Maybe a quart. That I poor back into tank after pouring it through a coffee filter.
I clean the bowl and replace filter as usual.
Only down side is you have to access both tank's shut off valves instead of one valve at the filter like you're considering. If you decide to go through with it let us know how it comes out.