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Old 12-10-2017, 07:39 PM   #21
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Straight forward repair but I did it in the middle of florida summer so it was hot and kept raining on my handywork(even when not predicted). I planned on doing a spot repair so I cut out a 2'x2' square and that turned into the whole back deck.

Make sure no rain for a few days.

You can do the back deck in one swoop but keep in mind you wont be able to walk or support any of your weight on it after you remove the coring.. Plan accordingly(the bottom layer of glass is thin.. IMO too thin. Hack away at the top layer because it's too thin to reuse too.. YMMV Be very careful with the bottom layer because you'll be reusing that. Add another couple layers of fiberglass to it before you do the coring.. Much stronger.

It was difficult for me to get the shape just right(the curve) so I was forced to create the curve with sawdust/resin putty mix which worked okay. I tried to work with one large piece of coring material which I found out is totally unnecessary. Small chunks are easier to work with, will shape better and is strong.

Bring and air compressor and an air chisel to remove the rotted out core. I didn't but the job would have been quicker/easier.

Consider seacast pourable coring material made for decks. It's expensive but honestly you'll have alot of leftover, runs to the lumberyard, splinters, and work. Better yet it can't rot.

No matter how much resin you think you'll need double it(same goes for everything else). I'd buy 5 gallons because you will use it elsewhere. I didn't use that much though.

It's going to be more expensive than you think. Consider that the rear deck of the boat is larger than some center console's whole deck.

Buy a small 4" circular saw.. I got a black and decker one from walmart for under $90 and use it alot. You can set the depth so you don't cut through the bottom layer and work in tight spots vs a large circle saw.

Read about making your own peanut butter/thickened resin.. Also don't apply that stuff thinking you'll just sand it smooth later.. it's rock hard. Silica mix works well.

I'm very happy with the results.. I will say i've gotten some very very good results on smaller harder to reach places by drilling and injecting Gorilla Glue(works better than injecting resin). Waste of time and money in large areas though.

A hatch would work great but remember that you're weakening the deck by not carrying it all the way across so layup more fiberglass than others.
As I get some of this is "general" deck redoing info (which I appreciate greatly) thank you so much for the MK mainship specific details as well. Glad you mentioned the small 4inch circular. It was something I was thinking of doing to get into those tight spaces... All fantastic info I will be saving. Thanks a lot!
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:44 PM   #22
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??

Thought all the MS 34s (original, Mk II, and Mk III) were single diesels? Mostly Perkins, though our Mk III had a DD 8.2T.

??

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You are correct.. this one had a refit with a 454
Will certainly do for now as we got the boat for short money with engine being gas and the deck issues. Runs about 11-12 at about 3000rpm. I have to say we are ok with it for a few years for our short weekend and overnights around the Boston islands etc. Already on our radar for a diesel in the coming years as we plan to keep her for a long while.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:10 PM   #23
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We're going to tackle the soft spots in our decks this coming spring now that the major job of recoring the bridge is behind us. Luckily, the cockpit is in good condition so that's one less thing that was on our to-do list. We're quite happy with the boat as a small cruiser for a couple.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:06 AM   #24
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You are correct.. this one had a refit with a 454

Ah.
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Old 12-11-2017, 09:40 AM   #25
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Since you are now gas not diesel, don't know how pertinent this is, but if your planning to go back to diesel in the future, this would be an EXCELLENT opportunity to replace your fuel tanks.. if in the future one starts to leak, you will be ripping apart your boat once again.....
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Old 12-20-2017, 09:21 PM   #26
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Since you are now gas not diesel, don't know how pertinent this is, but if your planning to go back to diesel in the future, this would be an EXCELLENT opportunity to replace your fuel tanks.. if in the future one starts to leak, you will be ripping apart your boat once again.....
%100 agree, Will go for a full cleanout and bilge coat as well. Do it once do it right.
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Old 01-22-2018, 11:11 AM   #27
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Capeshore,

Your boats the spitting image of mine, - do you know your hull number? I would be curious to know just how close in the lineage they are.

I have some info from the projects we have done, mostly pictures now but sometimes that can be of help. Might be a few nuggets you can use.

Mainship 34 Type I - Seanair - Repower, Recore and Rehab Projects

Good luck with the project and look forward to your updates.
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Old 01-27-2018, 10:21 PM   #28
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Capeshore,

Your boats the spitting image of mine, - do you know your hull number? I would be curious to know just how close in the lineage they are.

I have some info from the projects we have done, mostly pictures now but sometimes that can be of help. Might be a few nuggets you can use.

Mainship 34 Type I - Seanair - Repower, Recore and Rehab Projects

Good luck with the project and look forward to your updates.
Appreciate it, I need all I can get..Will grab the hull number tomorrow and send over to you..
This sub zero weather we've been having has kept me out of the boat for awhile. I have snuck in a couple days here and there. Will post updates now and tomorrow night as we have had 40-50 degrees this weekend. Hope everyone in lands of cold are getting some indoor winter boat projects done!
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Old 01-27-2018, 10:54 PM   #29
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misc work Jan 27-18

Hi everyone, finally a couple days with working weather. So unsure what order the photos upload but should be obvious as to the descriptions.Not my favorite thing to do in regards to working on 3-5 projects at once but temperature dictates sometimes what I can do and just want to stay productive. I don't mind a little cold but some of the work does. I found this will be the best way to stay moving forward throughout the winter as always will be something I can do.

-80 grit orbital sanded the salon walls and put some mold killer primer as a test. Let dry for 4-5 days and sprayed a spot with 3M trim adhesive, stuck a sample vinyl piece up. It dried and no issues! I pulled like heck and ripped the backing and some primer off.. passed the test. I will proceed with full mold kill primer (even down on lower wall even though a face panel will be put up.) I'm really trying to pull the 1978 out of the boat as far as old mold and smells, dirt, age. I've got 15 samples coming from sailrite.com for headliners, couch fabric, berth cushions etc. I'm sure most of you know the company but was new to me and had a really great list of products and how too's. Big fan of them so far.

-Next I built a quick frame to support the top forward deck. ( All rotted core.) This is a in process shot. I added some shim supports in the empty spaces. I went with just one for now as the anchor locker bulkhead is doing bracing in that location. Won't be cutting aft of temporary brace so good on that. I do have all the gunnels to rip out as they are all rotted as well.

-After that I started the deck I knew what I was getting into when I bought the boat but the time finally came.. I was sawing away. Glad I got it going as now the tools are there, system is in place and I'll just chip away on any day over freezing I can sneak down for an hour or two. Mostly will have to wait for weekends.

Boy it's tough having the whole boat ripped apart and such huge projects at the same time..(Still need to make new cabinets and berth cushions in my garage) HEAD: I had an idea in the head that I also started and what I think is going to work out great for the walls etc. It had wallpaper. I'll take some pictures of that tomorrow (Sunday) and discuss.

Side note: look at those temps! No heater on!
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:23 AM   #30
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2 Questions

Does anybody have any strong feelings against this coring material for the decks?

https://greatlakesskipper.com/aircel...l-single-sheet


Also does anybody in New England know of a plastics place that can make new "windshield" for the fly bridge helm? I have the old ones they are just very..well old and crazed etc.

Thanks everyone! Appreciate and enjoying all the comments and discussion here!
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Old 01-28-2018, 10:28 PM   #31
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Update from today. Several hours of deck core removal. Combination of a dremel multi tool, air chisel, bars, hammer, drill. Got a good system down and after awhile you've "seen it all" so you just move to the tool needed. It's not fun work but could be worse. Thankfully I think the gunnels are all mush so will be very easy to pull out. I hope the worst is behind me. So far I can say Dremel multi tool for the win.
HEAD: So I tried Bondo body filler for the walls. Will sand and do a second skim type of coat, epoxy prime and paint. So far so good I think. I bought two new port/windows from the same company that made original on the boat. They upgraded the latches thankfully the old screw ones are rough.
I will add that company tomorrow and some pics of them. They are really nice quality etc.

Also SEANAIR, if you read this I Forgot to take the Hull Id down but I will and send over to you. I'm interested as you are to see what yours is as well.
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Old 01-28-2018, 10:42 PM   #32
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My neighbor just bought a 34 Mainship. He is in for some of what you are doing. Looks like you are doing a great job. Keep the photos coming.
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Old 01-29-2018, 09:44 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by capeshore View Post
Does anybody have any strong feelings against this coring material for the decks?

https://greatlakesskipper.com/aircel...l-single-sheet
I wouldn't hesitate to use it, as long as it will absorb some resin.

I used a similar material; Core-Cell A500 .75 thickness
Triple Cut - but it was considerable more expensive so you may have found a good alternative.
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Old 01-29-2018, 05:22 PM   #34
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I wouldn't hesitate to use it, as long as it will absorb some resin.

I used a similar material; Core-Cell A500 .75 thickness
Triple Cut - but it was considerable more expensive so you may have found a good alternative.
Thanks, was going to ask you what thickness you used. I see on the bow of mine it was .75 but with adding some glass to as you or someone else said to the very thin under core layer wasn't sure if I should go 1/2 inch core. The base layer of glass is so thin..i poked through a little in two spots. Looked quick at the A500 but I will need it perforated for the bow and gunnel work which I didn't see off first look but I/m sure they have it.. no matter it's a nice option, thanks
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:57 PM   #35
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quarterboards and Port windows

Quick update for those who are following.. Here is the model and picture of the windows that work for the galley and head. I presume for the V verth as well. I'm just redoing the galley and head ones at this time. Company is out of CT. I could assume the is for all the MK models so hopefully helpful info.

Also, just a shot of the old quarterboards (you can see on my OP on boat picture) I took them off and planed them down below the old groved name. Nice enough pieces of wood to just do so. Will carve in the new name when we finally pick it. ( I'm gunning for DESPERADO.. but the misses isn't a huge fanwe will see

As always here open to suggestions, comments etc from anything you read in the thread. I've posted a few questions throughout as well so feel free to chat!
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Old 02-01-2018, 01:16 PM   #36
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Regarding your replacing portlights...canít help being curious. I pulled the one in the head of an old Mark I that I had over twenty years ago, to fix a leak. Found that it was "bedded in" with double sided paper tape. Had to just chuckle when I saw it. Wonder what you found? In spite of that, really good old boat. Great fun up and down the west coast of FL, Keys, and Bahamas!
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Old 02-02-2018, 12:50 PM   #37
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Regarding your replacing portlights...canít help being curious. I pulled the one in the head of an old Mark I that I had over twenty years ago, to fix a leak. Found that it was "bedded in" with double sided paper tape. Had to just chuckle when I saw it. Wonder what you found? In spite of that, really good old boat. Great fun up and down the west coast of FL, Keys, and Bahamas!
That's a good one, thanks for sharing.Also sounds like some decent traveling you did with her! I hope to someday.
I have only pulled the galley one and no paper, no real bedding at all! Likely explains why the entire wall around it was rotted. I'll be interested to see in the head.
I can say as we all know its funny seeing how people did things on old boats with years of fixes and jury rigging. I love when you see something that requires say 4 screws and they are all different! I needed 3 different screwdrivers to remove it. But hey sometimes you just need to get it done. Just not me.
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:53 PM   #38
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Sat 2.10.18

Very damp but warm day around 45-49 degrees. Bought a 4 inch dremel "circular saw." Really great for this work especially the gunnels, curves, tight spots. Core was frozen as a rock in most places so no need to make life more difficult and will wait till it thaws out. Currently shopping around for new deck fills etc. Worst part was the tight space to work in with the shrink wrap.
Last picture was from a ranger tug from the Boston Boat show on Sunday... inspiration to keep me going Click on photos they will rorate for better viewing.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:50 AM   #39
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Haven't done any fiberglass work since redoing my rear deck but getting ready to tackle the flybridge. I decided to just make it solid again rather than fix the sagging rear door.. Hope I dont regret that some day but spring is creeping up on me this year.

Have you been using tile-clad on the interior(thought I saw a can?) stuff is amazingly strong(stronger than gelcoat) and a good value @ $100 for 2 gallons of 2 part epoxy paint. Roll it on or you can spray it with a cheap $15 harbor freight airgun(assuming you have a large compressor).

Going to use cheap EBAY teak and holly Eva foam peel/stick decking on the rear deck for non-skid(comparable to seadek/much cheaper). I'll let you know how it holds up(only about $150 for the rear deck).
I'm a bit sloppy so it wont look custom made but hoping for something good.
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:02 AM   #40
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If you make the flybridge solid and the deck is still sagging then you'll never get the sag out in the future. I wasn't planning on rebuilding our cockpit sag either but realized it was going to have to be addressed first and then the flybridge repairs followed. Getting the sag out wasn't that much of an ordeal.
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