Window Glass Repair

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kebs3

Newbie
Joined
Aug 3, 2021
Messages
3
Vessel Name
Plan B
Vessel Make
Trojan 36 Tri Cabin 1985
Looking at a pilot house Heritage East 40 it has cracked glass in the salon forward window and cracked glass in a couple of the panels in the pilot house. What options are available to fix the cracked glass? Can you replace the glass without removing the entire window? What type of glass is the best replacement? Are there other options to use instead of what appears to be plate glass? Please direct me to a prior thread if one exists, seems pretty common but for some reason I haven't found it yet. I appreciate all comments and suggestions. Thank you
 
You usually have to take off either the inside or outside trim to get the window out. Also makes a difference with sliding windows if it's the slider or the stationary one.

Most of these windows are safety glass. Bring the glass with you and the store can duplicate the bevels, edging and finger grips.
 
Yes, it should be safety glass.

I went to several auto glass shops trying to replace a piece of flat safety glass. They don't make what they install, they buy it and install it.

I went to a shop that does residential windows, shower enclosures, etc. They were able to duplicate my flat safety glass panel.
 
Did this recently on a side window on our 80s era trawler. Either safety (sometimes called tempered) or laminated is Ok but not plate. It is much easier (at least in Oz) to get laminated glass cut and shaped. For safety glass, you need to have the glass cut first and then tempered (most places can't do the tempering).
 
Greetings,
Use laminated safely glass. IF tempered glass breaks, you’re left with a large hole. My $.02.
 
Greetings,
Use laminated safely glass. IF tempered glass breaks, you’re left with a large hole. My $.02.
 
Your next rabbit hole will be deciding what to use for bonding. Turns out protecting the bond edge from UV is critical and not easily acheved unless the glass has a protective strip (sometimes called a ceramic frit).
 
Looking at a pilot house Heritage East 40 it has cracked glass in the salon forward window and cracked glass in a couple of the panels in the pilot house. What options are available to fix the cracked glass? Can you replace the glass without removing the entire window? What type of glass is the best replacement? Are there other options to use instead of what appears to be plate glass? Please direct me to a prior thread if one exists, seems pretty common but for some reason I haven't found it yet. I appreciate all comments and suggestions. Thank you

I have never come across a boat with cracked windows, so I guess as a potential buyer I would want to know exactly what caused the cracking. If you don't get a rational answer I would strongly suspect hull or deck flex and would want to avoid that boat.
~A
 
Your next rabbit hole will be deciding what to use for bonding. Turns out protecting the bond edge from UV is critical and not easily acheved unless the glass has a protective strip (sometimes called a ceramic frit).

A very good point. I am hauling out tomorrow to have 8 forward windows replaced on a 1996 boat due to inadequate ceramic frit (my window installer used a different term but it does not currently come to mind). My windows were installed on the new build with inadequate protection for the bond edges and they were failing when I bought the boat a year ago and one has now failed completely. I suppose 25 years ain't bad, but if the sealant had been protected with that black strip in the edge of the glass, it would still be fine.
~A
 
What about replacing laminated glass with thick acrylic ?

L
 
I recently replaced my port windshield with laminated glass that I purchased from a local residential glass shop for about $300. About 48" x 48". Gave them the old one to use as a template. Removed the old windshield and installed the new one myself. Sealed it with Sikaflex 295UV. No leaks, looks great.
 
I also ended up using the sikaflex 295UV but sikaflex would actually recommend using 296 on mineral glass. 295 is their product for organic glass (plexiglass etc) but is much harder for a DIY application. The 295UV is easier to use and so far seems a good result.
 
Yes, I spoke with Sikaflex and they told me the same. They also recommended using their Sika Aktivator-100 to prepare the surface which I did.
 
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