Hot water drip

[LUVYAPOP]

Hey forum people, have a question about hot water flow. I have a hot water heater, the flow from it is very minimal. Want to know if it's okay to install a water pump and accumulator in the mix? I have a pump and accumulator in line from my fresh water tank. Attached is the flow from my sink faucet with just hot water running. If I turn the lever towards cold for more flow, I lose hot water. Any suggestions?

 

[TJM]

Typically the fresh water pump or dock water pressurizes the entire system, Hot and Cold.
Did this problem just start or has it slowly gotten worse ?
Could be a clogged line somewhere.

 

[wkearney99]

Make sure any valves leading to/from the water heater tank are fully open. Likewise that any hoses aren't crimped or otherwise blocked.

The freshwater pump on the cold side handles all water. It's pumped under pressure from the tank to the cold supply and into the water heater. Whatever pressure you see on the cold side should be the same on the hot side. If not then there's something restricting the flow.

 

[Comodave]

Does your water heater have an anode? If so it may have broken off and is now plugging the hot water outlet.

 

[O C Diver]

Is the poor flow the same at all faucets?

Ted

 

[Maerin]

Ditto what Ted replied. You've got to determine what the problem is before "solving" it with random corrections.

Start with Ted's advice. If this faucet's the only one afflicted, then you have a faucet problem. I can't see enough of the faucet from the photo, but it appears that it might be a Delta. If so, it could have debris in the seals or internal passages. It can create a problem like you're describing. Even disassembling the faucet and inspecting/cleaning can be an ineffective remedy, since when the water is shut off, debris in the line can drop back into the line out of sight, and when the line is re-energized, the debris is pushed back up to the faucet and the problem recurs. Fun! Seems the Delta 3614 styles are prone to this malady for some reason. So if you have an obstruction problem, go ahead and remove the parts, but flush the lines out after disassembly to insure any debris is actually removed. Flushing can be a mess, it sometimes help to have a helper operate the valves while you contain the flush water. A large wet-vac with a larger diameter hose helps channel the water.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. L. Agree with Mr M. Analyze then flush IF only the one faucet. If the condition is present in ALL the HW taps, check the outflow at the HWT. It will mean a removal of the hot water line at the tank. Again, wet/dry shop vac, a supply of towels and a bucket should be close at hand as well as a second set of hands to operate the pump or supply valves.

 

[LUVYAPOP]

My hot water heater has separate lines, so no, the dock water does not pressurize the whole system, only cold water. Reason I asked if it's okay to install a water pump and accumulator in the hot water system.

 

[LUVYAPOP]

Thank you. I didn't think about that. I'll have to check the hoses then.

 

[LUVYAPOP]

I don't believe it does. Aren't anodes only used if sea water will be running through, like a heat exchanger?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. L. Dock water MUST pressurize your whole system unless there is an already existing pump dedicated to your hot water.
Once mains water comes aboard, it splits, via piping where one side goes directly to your cold taps and the other side takes a side trip through your water heater and thence to your hot water taps.
We ask again. Is the low, hot water flow rate just from the galley tap or do ALL the hot water taps "dribble"?
All water heater tanks I'm aware of have a sacrificial anode either ashore or afloat.

 

[Maerin]

I don't believe it does. Aren't anodes only used if sea water will be running through, like a heat exchanger?

The anode is to protect the dissimilar (electrolytic) metals in an electrolyte solution. That solution is the water. It can be freshwater or seawater. Every water heater has an anode. Electrolysis can occur in freshwater, it's just not as agressive. It may take years for electrolysis to be a problem in fresh water.

BTW, it's a water heater. If the water were hot, you wouldn't need to heat it.


It is HIGHLY unlikely that you have separate pumps for hot/cold water. It would be nearly impossible to control backflow between separate systems. You never did answer the key DX question re: is the problem only with one faucet?? You haven't defined the problem, until you do, DX will not progress. Just sayin'.

 

[drb1025]

I just replaced a Seaward water heater that was installed in 2010 and it did not have an anode. The manual suggested removing the drain spigot and putting an anode in its place. But not every water heater has one. Most, if not all, water heaters on the market now come with anodes.

 

[DavidM]

Lots of confusion here, so follow these steps and report the results:

1. Do you have low flow in all faucets, hot and cold? If only hot, go to 2. If yes then you most likely have a problem with your water pump. Break the connection on the discharge side of the pump and see if you get good water pressure. If not you have a problem with the pump or its suction line to the water tank.

2. Does the low hot water flow occur in all faucets? If only one you have a problem with the valve on that faucet. If yes, you have some kind of restriction in your hot water system, maybe an anode zinc that is blocking the flow as noted above. Try breaking the connection to the input to the hot water heater and see if you get good flow. Then if yes break the connection to the output and see if you get low flow. If yes the problem is inside the hot water heater. If it is a misplaced zinc you probably can't get to it, so replace the hot water heater.


David

 

[Bacchus]

My hot water heater has separate lines, so no, the dock water does not pressurize the whole system, only cold water. Reason I asked if it's okay to install a water pump and accumulator in the hot water system.

I
If WH not pressurized by cold water... either from FW tank or dockside how do you get cold water to the WH?

Many WH have a check valve on the cold supply side.
I would also check there to see if you have flow before and after the check valve.
Also open the drain to see what pressure/ flow you get at the WH. Even better get a P gauge w pipe thread to place at various points to measure your pressures.