Europa Support Joint w/Varnish

[6-Pack]

I have searched and found differing views on the compound I should use in the joint between the pylon on my CHB Europa and the cap rail varnish that I have been working on. I want something that will handle the flex but keep water out of the joint. You can tell in this picture where I am talking about as it is where the green tape currently resides...

Suggestions?

Thanks Jeff

 

[SomeSailor]

I'm guessing white 3M marine silicone would work well. I was just was taking some of mine off and pondering the same thing.

 

[awpptdt]

I have searched and found differing views on the compound I should use in the joint between the pylon on my CHB Europa and the cap rail varnish that I have been working on. I want something that will handle the flex but keep water out of the joint. You can tell in this picture where I am talking about as it is where the green tape currently resides...

Suggestions?

Thanks Jeff

3m's is tough and flexable. What are the bolts in the pylon for? J.T.Duncan

 

[rochepoint]

Same thing on our PT, 15 years ago I used 3M 5200 black. A nice bead that still looks great today, maybe the boathouse helps. I am very happy with the results.

 

[6-Pack]

3m's is tough and flexable. What are the bolts in the pylon for? J.T.Duncan


The bolts are attached to our dinghy lift... Jeff

 

[6-Pack]

Same thing on our PT, 15 years ago I used 3M 5200 black. A nice bead that still looks great today, maybe the boathouse helps. I am very happy with the results.

I have heard that 5200 would not handle the flex. Also, did you put it on top of the varnish on the cap rail side and it stuck? I am thinking a nice white bead would hide some of the imperfection in the joint. Then I plan to pant the pylon... Jeff

 

[rochepoint]

I think the black just kind of disappears to the eye with a small bead against the teak and the off white colour of our gelcoat. Ours is on top of Cetol, gave up on varnish 16 years ago....

 

[SomeSailor]

The paint may not stick well to the silicone. I would paint first, then silicone.

 

[Daddyo]

The proper nautical name, as I know it for the "pylon" is style bar. The pros are using black (product of your choice) more and more in the joints where brightwork meets fiberglass. It really makes for a very attractive joint and solves the where to end/begin dilemma.

 

[HopCar]

I vote for 5200. It will stick, it will flex and it's paintable.
It's available in black, white, tan, or mahogany.

From 3M: "Marine

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adhesive sealant 5200 is a high​

performance, one part, moisture curing

polyurethane designed for marine applications
above or below the waterline. In addition, its
flexibility allows for dissipation of stress caused
by shock, vibration, swelling, or shrinking.​

Structural bonding and sealing of : wood,

fib​

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reglass, gelcoat, primed metals.​

Sealing of most plastics, glass, metal."​

 

[6-Pack]

The proper nautical name, as I know it for the "pylon" is style bar. The pros are using black (product of your choice) more and more in the joints where brightwork meets fiberglass. It really makes for a very attractive joint and solves the where to end/begin dilemma.

I would like to see a picture of what the black looks like before I go that route.

The paint may not stick well to the silicone. I would paint first, then silicone.

Yes, that would be ideal but I am not planning to paint for awhile and I want to get it protected.

 

[6-Pack]

I vote for 5200. It will stick, it will flex and it's paintable.
It's available in black, white, tan, or mahogany

I have been looking for pictures of the different colors after they dry... I am thinking I will likely go that route!

 

[rochepoint]

I will try and take some photos today and post them later today.

 

[6-Pack]

I will try and take some photos today and post them later today.

That would be awesome! I have to convince the admiral

 

[rochepoint]

As I said, some photos. The windows show white used to bed the window frames. The other photos show what I think you want to do using black. The black is a bead on top to seal the joints and is 15+ old 3M 5200. I think if I were to re-bed the windows I would probably use black or at least flip a coin......

 

[Flatsflyer]

I woul use backer rod to fill the gap and then Boatlife Caulk. Backer rod comes in different diameters and gets stuffed between the joint and then a thin layer of caulk is used. I removed all the caulking around my sundeck last year and use 1/2" backer rod. Backer rod is closed cell and will not absorb water. Geoogle backer rod, several companies make it. Often used on construction projects especially in concrete joints.

 

[6-Pack]

As I said, some photos. The windows show white used to bed the window frames. The other photos show what I think you want to do using black. The black is a bead on top to seal the joints and is 15+ old 3M 5200. I think if I were to re-bed the windows I would probably use black or at least flip a coin......

Very much appreciated! The admiral is looking over the pictures. Your boat is beautiful! What a difference the boat house makes

 

[6-Pack]

I woul use backer rod to fill the gap and then Boatlife Caulk. Backer rod comes in different diameters and gets stuffed between the joint and then a thin layer of caulk is used. I removed all the caulking around my sundeck last year and use 1/2" backer rod. Backer rod is closed cell and will not absorb water. Geoogle backer rod, several companies make it. Often used on construction projects especially in concrete joints.

Thanks I will check into it!