Changing shaft log o

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by Dom61

Yes but 1975 mt34 has a false floor

So did mine.....I just sealed it.

[Datenight]

Dom,

I did that on the green boat. Had to cut out the false floor and dig out water logged foam. The stink of the foam was terrible.

Photo 1 shows the log after cutting out the false floor. The tabbing has been cut and everything ready to come out.

Photo 2 is the old log with the leak circled in red.

I bought the tube from Nor" Easter Yachts in Milford, CT.

https://noreasteryachts.com/


Rob

[Singingrivercruiser]

It’s major work and costly butI sleep much better knowing I’m not relying on my bilge pumps and batteries to keep my boat off the bottom of the slip. Much like Datenight, cut false floor, removed shaft tube, installed new tube with cutlass bearing in middle (yes GB 32’s were built with this center tube bearing), new cutlass bearings front and stern with new shaft log. Filled void under false floor, reglassed and while we are here and spending a ton go ahead with new SS shaft. But on the plus side I was doing a wind and current aided 9 knots with all the work from Rockport to Seabrook last month, don’t know what I’m going to do with all that extra time.

[Datenight]

I forgot to mention ours was also leaking where it went through the hull. After cutting the tabbing it would have fallen out if not horizontal.

Rob

[mvweebles]

Willard 36 Hull #1 (1961) had this done in 1995 or so. I believe it was a bronze tube about 6-feet long (fiberglass would be better), mostly encased in concrete. I do not know why it needed replacement but it did. Was about $10k at the time in San Francisco Bay. So figure $20k-$25k in today's dollars. Its hard work, but much is simple grunt work (at least until the new tube needs to be installed and aligned).

The OP's posts are pretty cryptic. Sounds serious - not a lot of choice about doing this given the alternative. Longshot, but if this were caused by a grounding, perhaps there is an insurance claim possible?

Best of luck ----

Peter

[JosieWhales]

Originally Posted by Dom61

Oops sorry about that I mean the Stern tube we have to change the Stern tube large project. Just wondering if anybody else has done it?

We removed both shafts (twin diesels) and easily pryed our stern tubes off.
It had old stuffing boxes and during repacking realized after a better inspection that the stern tube needed rebeding. Just like every thru hull.
The mistake we made in rebeding port side with 5200 ( maybe a mistake on this side) is it wasnt completely straight with the shaft.
We converted to pss dripless shaft seals and the port side will now spray water do to be uncentered with shaft.
I suppose after time the carbon ring will work its self to proper seating but I don't want all that spray in the engine compartment.
Next project will be trying to remove the 5200 and rebed.

[RickyD]

Originally Posted by Dom61

Oops sorry about that I mean the Stern tube we have to change the Stern tube large project. Just wondering if anybody else has done it?

I did it last year on my Californian 55. Six cutlass bearings and a stern tube. Took over a week in the yard just for that job although I was there longer to get much more done.

[lwarden]

Originally Posted by JosieWhales

We removed both shafts (twin diesels) and easily pryed our stern tubes off.
It had old stuffing boxes and during repacking realized after a better inspection that the stern tube needed rebeding. Just like every thru hull.
The mistake we made in rebeding port side with 5200 ( maybe a mistake on this side) is it wasnt completely straight with the shaft.
We converted to pss dripless shaft seals and the port side will now spray water do to be uncentered with shaft.
I suppose after time the carbon ring will work its self to proper seating but I don't want all that spray in the engine compartment.
Next project will be trying to remove the 5200 and rebed.

It could be an optical illusion but it looks like the stern tube is not axially aligned with the shaft and therefore the bellows are not concentric on each end. PSS seals do not like that. The graphite seal needs to float on the shaft and not rub on it. It looks like it may be rubbing which will cause spraying if there is any vibration. I've found I need to be very careful with the position of the bellows on the stern tube or it sprays. Once it's aligns if you spin the shaft you should be able to move the graphite seal all the way around towards the shaft and have some movement.

[Comodave]

Originally Posted by lwarden

It could be an optical illusion but it looks like the stern tube is not axially aligned with the shaft and therefore the bellows are not concentric on each end. PSS seals do not like that. The graphite seal needs to float on the shaft and not rub on it. It looks like it may be rubbing which will cause spraying if there is any vibration. I've found I need to be very careful with the position of the bellows on the stern tube or it sprays. Once it's aligns if you spin the shaft you should be able to move the graphite seal all the way around towards the shaft and have some movement.

I agree. I thought it looks out of alignment but I thought it was just me. I think it will wear badly over time.

[DDW]

I've not ever done it but in theory, it could be done without so much destruction.

Find a hole saw the same OD (or slightly less) than the existing tube. Machine a mandrel that is slightly smaller in diameter than the ID, that fastens to the tooth side of the hole saw to guide it. Fabricate a LONG extension for a serious drill motor. Feed it through until the old tube is gone. I'm not minimizing the amount of work involved, or the number of hole saw blades you will go through, but it should work. Bonus points would be to make the extension drive hollow and feed water through it: cools the saw and flushes the detritus out. Or you may be able to just run water in the other end. This is something like how a gun drill works. Then bond a new tube in. That's what I'd try.