zinc problem again

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jann

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
111
Location
usa
Gentlemen
I appreciate all the help and info.
I can't get the zinc residue out after the zinc post breaks off the brass plug
I screw the plug back hoping the zinc will eventually
dissolve and I can put a new zinc in.
My question is will I still get protection during this period
any thoughts
 
No, not much protection. The broken off zinc is covered with zinc compounds which are good insulators. Unless the zinc is in good contact with the surrounding metal of the heat exchanger it isn't doing much good.

But can you remove the end cap and get it out? What engine do you have and where is the broken off zinc? Can you screw in a replacement zinc and just let the broken off zinc slowly waste away if it isn't easy to get the end cap off?

Dvaid
 
Jann, I have the same problem. I have some plugs where the anode has broken off while trying to unscrew the anode from the plug. The amount of the anode left in the plug simply won’t have the usable surface area to provide adequate protection. So I would not do what you are asking.

I always make sure that I have a couple spare plugs around so that if I can’t put a new anode in the used plug, I have a new complete anode (plug and anode combination) or a blank plug handy to use.

I have heard that folks will use muriatic acid to dissolve the anode out of used plugs when this happens.

However…
Where do you get muriatic acid?
What type of container can you use to put the muriatic acid in to soak the plug?
How long does that take for zinc and aluminum anodes?
Does the acid harm the plugs?
 
Big box hardware stores gave muriatic acid. usually around the thinners in oaint section or cleaning solutions.
 
A lot of this can be prevented by applying a thread sealer such as Rectorseal 5 to the anode threads. A light coating and then using pliers and wrench to SNUG the anode firmly into the cap.
Keeps seawater out of threads. so they do not degrade.
As you snug metal to metal contact will be made.
 
A lot of this can be prevented by applying a thread sealer such as Rectorseal 5 to the anode threads. A light coating and then using pliers and wrench to SNUG the anode firmly into the cap.

Keeps seawater out of threads. so they do not degrade.

As you snug metal to metal contact will be made.
I've been using Rectoreal 5 on the the plug threads but haven't done it on the anode threads. Again, I haven't had a problem with the anode coming out of the plug as I remove the plug, but I have had problems with not being able to remove the anode from the plug after it has been removed.
 
I've been using Rectoreal 5 on the the plug threads but haven't done it on the anode threads. Again, I haven't had a problem with the anode coming out of the plug as I remove the plug, but I have had problems with not being able to remove the anode from the plug after it has been removed.
Better yet, use KoprKote, a highly conductive anti-seize compound. Anodes out-screw easily.
 
Big box hardware stores gave muriatic acid. usually around the thinners in oaint section or cleaning solutions.

Also swimming pool supply stores sell Muriatic acid by the gallon.
~A
 
What I do is drill out the broken part and run a bottoming tap into the plug. Takes a few minutes. The zinc is softer than the plug so don't worry abut damaging the internal threads.
 
Also try Performance Metals anodes (zinc or alum) as they have a steel wire core that reinforces the anode rod and reduces breakage.
 
Update...
Just checked my oil cooler anode yesterday as it erodes faster than the others. Plug came out with no anode rod (broke off at plug). The good news is the steel core stayed with the anode rod and stuck out enough to grab with vise grips and wiggle / pull the spent anode out of the cooler. Without the steel core I would have been in trouble.
Another vote for Performance Metals anodes!
 
I remove zinc plugging the brass plug with household lyme away. Sometimes takes several applications but they ome brand new with no zinc crud left in the threads.
 
Geez, just buy a new one or two instead of messing with acid. They are quite inexpensive. If you use KoprKote (high copper content) or other metal impregnated antiseize on the threads you will never again have the problem.
 
Performance Metals

Update...
Just checked my oil cooler anode yesterday as it erodes faster than the others. Plug came out with no anode rod (broke off at plug). The good news is the steel core stayed with the anode rod and stuck out enough to grab with vise grips and wiggle / pull the spent anode out of the cooler. Without the steel core I would have been in trouble.
Another vote for Performance Metals anodes!


How do you buy from Performance Metals?
I tried and I needed to be a business. Is there another way?
 
How do you buy from Performance Metals?
I tried and I needed to be a business. Is there another way?
I called them and told them where I was located. They checked for a dealer in the area and said there weren't any nearby so OK to just order direct. Irs been a couple years since I bought several sets at one time. Worth a try.
 
I called them and told them where I was located. They checked for a dealer in the area and said there weren't any nearby so OK to just order direct. Irs been a couple years since I bought several sets at one time. Worth a try.



I just ordered some more a few weeks ago. I called them up and told them what I wanted. Very nice to deal with. It would be nice if they had a web store, but kind of nice to talk to a real person for a change.

Phone: 410-228-2400
When I called last they answered the phone as Caldwell Casting.
 

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