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jclays

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
467
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Freebird
Vessel Make
1997 Mainship 350
Good morning.
I am going to replace the sani hose that goes from the toilet to the holding tank in an effort to clear unwanted odors from the 1997 350 mainship I recently purchased.
It currently is one inch white sani hose that is quite old and I can smell an odor permeating thru it.
The run is approximately 10-12 feet with several 90 degree turns. I am thinking of using PVC except for a few feet at the toilet and at the holding tank for ease of connections.
What would be the best transition from hose to PVC?
PVC to hose barb connection looks the most solid however I am concerned at the loss of diameter at the hose barb.
A hose cuff would solve that issue however is this a good connection under pressure of the macerator pump at the toilet?

Thanks in advance
Jim
 
You’re overthinking it. There are two excellent sanitation hoses that last many years without permeating. Just use Trident 101 or 102 hose. For a more flexible hose use Raritan SaniFlex. Both have a ten year warranty.
 
I hope you're planning to replace the tank discharge hose and tank vent line too as well as the toilet intake hose...'cuz the discharge hose and vent line have permeated too and the toilet intake line is almost certain to be at least partially blocked with sea water mineral buildup.

As Parks said, there are two hoses that have proven to be 100% odor permeation resistant--Trident 101/102 (identical except 101 is black, 102 has a white "skin" on it) Trident #101 Sanitation Hose Trident #10 2Sanitation Hose - and Raritan SaniFlex Raritan Saniflex Sanitation Hose

Trident 101/102 have only one drawback: they're as stiff as an ironing board...making them only suitable for long straight runs 'cuz it's necessary to insert inline radius fittings in any bends more than about 10 degrees...in which case you might as well go with hard PVC for half the price, but you'd still have all those unions necessary to "soft couple" the connections to the toilet, tank and pumpout fitting in addition to any inline fittings. Raritan SaniFlex is so flexible it can be bent almost as tight as a hairpin without kinking, which makes most jobs a LOT easier...making it the hose I recommend. Defender has the best price for it Raritan Sani / Flex Sanitation Hose at Defender

You can use Shields or Trident flex pvc #148(the cheap stuff) for the vent line and toilet intake line.

However, there's a bit more to this job than just replacing hoses if you want to eliminate the odor, 'cuz the permeated hoses have left residual odor in the areas through which they've passed. Getting rid of that will require a thorough cleaning with detergent and water followed by treating with an odor eliminating product...I recommend PureAyre PureAyre.

--Peggie
 
Last edited:
Go with the Raritan Sani Flex. It is very easy to use and like Peggie says it doesn’t permeate. And Defender does have the best price that I have found. If you are going to but much stuff over the next year, you might want to join Defender 1st. It costs $50 for a year and you get better prices. I saved about $80 on an alternator so it was a great deal for me as the alternator paid for more than the year membership.
 
If you go PVC then use PVC schedule 40, not the lightweight stuff meant for vacuum lines or gutter drains.
Use the sweeps such as shown in the seacoastservices reference by Duvie. Standard 90o are quite tight and more prone to a clog.
These guys I see also offer smooth hose to pipe adapters which I have used in my system. Lots of room for two clamps. Minimal reduction in diam. which in reality I don't think you really need worry about.

Or better use the Raritan hose.

Just be carefull no matter which you use to avoid dips which will hold material.

I will second Peggies book. Many good tips in there especially if you are going to redo the system. NO point in learning it all the hard way.
 
HeadMistress said:
I hope you're planning to replace the tank discharge hose and tank vent line too as well as the toilet intake hose...'cuz the discharge hose and vent line have permeated too and the toilet intake line is almost certain to be at least partially blocked with sea water mineral buildup.

As Parks said, there are two hoses that have proven to be 100% odor permeation resistant--Trident 101/102 (identical except 101 is black, 102 has a white "skin" on it) Trident #101 Sanitation Hose Trident #10 2Sanitation Hose - and Raritan SaniFlex Raritan Saniflex Sanitation Hose

Trident 101/102 have only one drawback: they're as stiff as an ironing board...making them only suitable for long straight runs 'cuz it's necessary to insert inline radius fittings in any bends more than about 10 degrees...in which case you might as well go with hard PVC for half the price, but you'd still have all those unions necessary to "soft couple" the connections to the toilet, tank and pumpout fitting in addition to any inline fittings. Raritan SaniFlex is so flexible it can be bent almost as tight as a hairpin without kinking, which makes most jobs a LOT easier...making it the hose I recommend. Defender has the best price for it Raritan Sani / Flex Sanitation Hose at Defender

You can use Shields or Trident flex pvc #148(the cheap stuff) for the vent line and toilet intake line.

However, there's a bit more to this job than just replacing hoses if you want to eliminate the odor, 'cuz the permeated hoses have left residual odor in the areas through which they've passed. Getting rid of that will require a thorough cleaning with detergent and water followed by treating with an odor eliminating product...I recommend PureAyre PureAyre.

--Peggie
Click to expand...

toilet intake is fresh water. Holding tank to pump out macerator replaced. Macerator to seacock replaced. Just need to replace vent and toilet to holding tank hose.
 
Ditto the comments for Raritan Saniflex hose and buying it from Defender. Did this last winter and got a good result.
 
HeadMistress said:
I hope you're planning to replace the tank discharge hose and tank vent line too as well as the toilet intake hose...'cuz the discharge hose and vent line have permeated too and the toilet intake line is almost certain to be at least partially blocked with sea water mineral buildup.

As Parks said, there are two hoses that have proven to be 100% odor permeation resistant--Trident 101/102 (identical except 101 is black, 102 has a white "skin" on it) Trident #101 Sanitation Hose Trident #10 2Sanitation Hose - and Raritan SaniFlex Raritan Saniflex Sanitation Hose

Trident 101/102 have only one drawback: they're as stiff as an ironing board...making them only suitable for long straight runs 'cuz it's necessary to insert inline radius fittings in any bends more than about 10 degrees...in which case you might as well go with hard PVC for half the price, but you'd still have all those unions necessary to "soft couple" the connections to the toilet, tank and pumpout fitting in addition to any inline fittings. Raritan SaniFlex is so flexible it can be bent almost as tight as a hairpin without kinking, which makes most jobs a LOT easier...making it the hose I recommend. Defender has the best price for it Raritan Sani / Flex Sanitation Hose at Defender

You can use Shields or Trident flex pvc #148(the cheap stuff) for the vent line and toilet intake line.

However, there's a bit more to this job than just replacing hoses if you want to eliminate the odor, 'cuz the permeated hoses have left residual odor in the areas through which they've passed. Getting rid of that will require a thorough cleaning with detergent and water followed by treating with an odor eliminating product...I recommend PureAyre PureAyre.

--Peggie
Click to expand...

toilet intake is fresh water. Holding tank to pump out macerator replaced. Macerator to seacock replaced. Just need to replace vent and toilet to holding tank hose.
 
jclays said:
Good morning.
I am going to replace the sani hose that goes from the toilet to the holding tank in an effort to clear unwanted odors from the 1997 350 mainship I recently purchased.
It currently is one inch white sani hose that is quite old and I can smell an odor permeating thru it.
The run is approximately 10-12 feet with several 90 degree turns. I am thinking of using PVC except for a few feet at the toilet and at the holding tank for ease of connections.
What would be the best transition from hose to PVC?
PVC to hose barb connection looks the most solid however I am concerned at the loss of diameter at the hose barb.
A hose cuff would solve that issue however is this a good connection under pressure of the macerator pump at the toilet?

Thanks in advance
Jim
Click to expand...

I have 5" of hose at the toilet and 5" of hose at the tank. The rest of it is ABS residental plumbing. Faster, cheaper, easier than hose plus 90 or 45 degree corners and ability to easily control the rate of fall ... and bonus ... a clean out trap ! 30yrs. on three boats without any smell whatsoever. Do it once.
 
toilet intake is fresh water. Holding tank to pump out macerator replaced. Macerator to seacock replaced. Just need to replace vent and toilet to holding tank hose.


Fresh water isn't immune to mineral buildup. There's no tank-to-deck pumpout line??
And...if the hoses in your system are even half as old as the boat, there's good reason to replace all of 'em: The average working life of any hose is about 10 years because rubber and plastics dry out over time, becoming hard, brittle and prone to splitting and cracking. So although it may be more work than you want to do now, far better to do the entire job now and get it over with than have to it all some at a time later.


--Peggie



--Peggie
 
What did you use to make the hose to ABS connection?
 
I can't recall ever seeing 1 inch ABS pipe or fittings.
 
bligh said:
I can't recall ever seeing 1 inch ABS pipe or fittings.
Click to expand...

I use 1.5" ABS for all holdig tank purposes including vents.
Various residential ABS sink fittings fit quite nicely in the 1.5" (5" long) sections of sanitary hose that I use to connect things together
 
Thanks all. I’ll just go new 1” hose. Less hassle.
 
Have another one for you all. Cleaning up the boat today. Flushed the toilet a few times to run water thru the system. When I walked outside passing the vent shortly after flushing just water there was a really bad sewage odor coming out the vent. Is this due to the vent hose or is it the water entering the holding tank displacing nasty air in the tank.
 
jclays said:
Thanks all. I’ll just go new 1” hose. Less hassle.
Click to expand...


:thumb:


If this is your first time replacing hoses, a couple of tips that may make the job easier:

Flush a LOT of water through the system before you begin.
Warming the old hoses a bit (I always used a blow dryer) will make them easier to get off the fittings.
Put a plastic waste basket liner under each connection to catch any spills.
Warming the hose also makes it easier to get the new hose onto the fittings. Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting with a little K-Y...it's a water soluble surgical jelly that dries out and is also much slipperier than dishwashing liquid.
And I'm sure you already know that all hose connections should be double clamped, with screws 180 degrees apart...or at least 90 degrees if access makes 180 impossible.

The odor out the vent when you flushed the toilet was nasty (anaerobic) gasses forced out the vent by the incoming water. Thoroughly flushing out the tank as another step in preparing to replace your hoses is the first step in curing it.

--Peggie
 
Last edited:
HeadMistress said:
:thumb:


If this is your first time replacing hoses, a couple of tips that may make the job easier:

Flush a LOT of water through the system before you begin.
Warming the old hoses a bit (I always used a blow dryer) will make them easier to get off the fittings.
Put a plastic waste basket liner under each connection to catch any spills.
Warming the hose also makes it easier to get the new hose onto the fittings. Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting with a little K-Y...it's a water soluble surgical jelly that dries out and is also much slipperier than dishwashing liquid.
And I'm sure you already know that all hose connections should be double clamped, with screws 180 degrees apart...or at least 90 degrees if access makes 180 impossible.

The odor out the vent when you flushed the toilet was nasty (anaerobic) gasses forced out the vent by the incoming water. Thoroughly flushing out the tank as another step in preparing to replace your hoses is the first step in curing it.

--Peggie
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips.
What do you recommend for flushing out the tank. I know bleach is not recommended
 
Bump????



You won't be CLEANING the tank, only flushing out all the sludge. So all you need is water. Put about 6" of it into the tank via the deck pumpout fitting, 'cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom where it can stir up the sludge and hold it in suspension...pump that out. Repeat, repeat, until you're pumping out clean water.

There's an easier way if you have a washdown pump (sea water is ok for this job)....you've already said you have a macerator pump to dump the tank. Use the washdown pump to add the water to the tank via the deck pumpout fitting, then turn on the macerator (open the thru-hull first!) and let it run while you continue to add water to the tank till the water coming out is clean.

And btw...this should be done 2-3 x a season and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup.

--Peggie
 
Thanks
I’ll assume running the macerator continuously with water flow is ok? My previous boat had a hand pump. My first macerator equipped boat.
Thanks

OBTW “bump” is to put your post back up top of the que for another look.
Thanks again
 
jclays said:
..OBTW “bump” is to put your post back up top of the que for another look.
Thanks again
Click to expand...
From Forum Rules:
"Participants may not post or bump threads to pad post counts. Bumping is posting useless information, posting one-liners or any other action to deliberately keep a thread hot"
I know, not quite on point,you just wanted a response, but that`s what it says about "bump". Just harkin`back to my old Mod days.
 
BruceK said:
From Forum Rules:
"Participants may not post or bump threads to pad post counts. Bumping is posting useless information, posting one-liners or any other action to deliberately keep a thread hot"
I know, not quite on point,you just wanted a response, but that`s what it says about "bump". Just harkin`back to my old Mod days.
Click to expand...

Would you suggest I re-post the exact post again?
 
jclays said:
Thanks
I’ll assume running the macerator continuously with water flow is ok?
Click to expand...


It's running dry that fries the impeller in a macerator pump...running it with water continuously going through it is ok. However, although I haven't researched whether the motor in a Jabsco macerator pump is designed for continuous duty, it's unlikely that it would be. So I wouldn't run it longer than 15-20 minutes without a break to let the motor cool off. But you shouldn't have to run it even that long to do this job.


--Peggie
 
Thanks. I’ll do this first.
 
Filled the holding tank with the macerator running. Very stinky gas being being displaced out the vent by the incoming water.
After doing this for a while I refilled the tank with water and a holding tank chemical. Will let it sit a few days.
 
Have a look at OC Diver's post earlier this year about cleaning your holding tank. His method seems to work fairly well with not a lot of expense. Search either by his posts or under cleaning holding tank.


Holding Tank Cleaning, the Easy Way
 
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