1980 Perkins T6.354 anode broke off

[vegacrank]

When I went to change the anode which is on the bottom of the end cap on the transmission oil cooler, the brass cap unscrewed but the anode is "stuck" in the hole. Any ideas for getting it out beside taking the end cap off? thx

 

[C lectric]

Try drillling the end with a NEW, SHARP bit. Maybe several, starting small, increasing in diameter untill an Easyout or even a screw driven in to the hole so a pair of pliers can be used. Dull bits won't help.
Try needle nose pliers or Vise Grips if there is something to grab.

I will suggest for the future though that you lightly coat the anode thread with a pipe sealer before installing in the cap AFTER wire brushing the cap and anode threads lightly so they show bright. Then use a wrench and pliers to snug the anode firmly into the cap. THe sealer will keep the water out so the threads don't degrade, the snugging will hold the anode in the cap so they won't separate.

If you are concerned about continuity between the cap and anode then satisfy yourself all is well by using the OHMS function. There should be less than 1 ohm when done.

I've been doing that for years now and never a problem, so far, on my different engine.

I also use the sealer on the cap external threads to stop the inevitable weeps and corrosion in those threads. Again the ohm meter.

Gobs of sealer are not needed. I use Rectorseal #5 but there are others.

 

[vegacrank]

Thx, for the detailed reply. The anode is stuck in the hole when the brass cap it was fastened to did unscrew. I'm afraid to put pressure on the anode. It may knock it into the oil cooler.

 

[Island Cessna]

The anode should come in from the top. The zinc salts that form when it does its job slough off and fall down, they will be built up at the base of the anode. A radiator shop should be able to boil it out and get the anode to fall out.
Once you get it out can you turn the cooler over when you reinstall?Perhaps there is already a second hole on the top, and the bottom is supposed to be a drain plug.

 

[CaptTom]

Can you post a pic or describe where the anode is? I've been looking for one on my T6.364's for years!

 

[kapnd]

You should go ahead and remove the end cap, as there may be surprises waiting inside that need to be discovered, such as previously broken off anodes, corrosion and deteriorated gasket, all that could lead to serious problems.
Also you’ll be able to measure the protrusion of the anode into the heat x, sometimes the anode requires a bit of shortening before installation, or it will break off and be nonfunctional garbage.

 

[Comodave]

You should go ahead and remove the end cap, as there may be surprises waiting inside that need to be discovered, such as previously broken off anodes, corrosion and deteriorated gasket, all that could lead to serious problems.
Also you’ll be able to measure the protrusion of the anode into the heat x, sometimes the anode requires a bit of shortening before installation, or it will break off and be nonfunctional garbage.

+1. Better to find out what is in there and establish a baseline. Then you know it isn’t full of broken off anodes.

 

[vegacrank]

The anode on both my Perkins T6.354 is located at the bottom of the end cap of the oil cooler.

The best would be to remove the end cap. The only reason I try to avoid that is the boat gets moved to winter dock in two weeks. I try to avoid potential "disastrous" type repairs and maintenance this close to needing two engines.

 

[kapnd]

The anode on both my Perkins T6.354 is located at the bottom of the end cap of the oil cooler.

The best would be to remove the end cap. The only reason I try to avoid that is the boat gets moved to winter dock in two weeks. I try to avoid potential "disastrous" type repairs and maintenance this close to needing two engines.

Nothing disastrous about replacing he gaskets, I do mine every other year.
It’s a simple job, and it allows a peek at a very important area!