Battery cable extension

[Phil23]

Hi Guys I may well be on a hiding to nowhere with this one. I have just had to install a new Maxwell Windlass and as my luck has it my Positive Battery Lead (AWG4 I think) is 200mm too short. It is not as simple as pulling the existing cable and replacing with a new as the builders in their wisdom glassed the cable in from just above the waterline through to the engine room. My question(s) are how can I join maybe 180mm of cable to the existing and then to the reversing solenoid without soldering ie a crimp jointing fitting


Give the short run to the reversing solenoid could I use a slightly lesser cable to ease the job.
Look forward to comments

 

[C lectric]

Hmmm. THis was just discussed recently.

Use Butt connectors, GOOD quality industrial electrical ones from someone like Thomas and Betts or Burndy or FTZ.

There are differences. Lots of light weight thin walled units which for this should not be used.

DO NOT go down a wire size. YOu will need to get a GOOD crimper or the crimp will be questionable.

A good chandlery or often electrical houses will rent one to you.

Use a couple of layers or adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to cover the joint and then support the joint to eliminate vibration.

Are you positive that the old wiring will handle the new windlass current load? Be positive or the new unit may operate poorly under load and can, if bad enough, damage itself. Your new windlass should also have a wire size vs a TOTAL length of circuit chart to guide you. Find it and read it and be sure.

 

[Comodave]

I would not try soldering it. Either use a good butt connector or 2 ring terminals and a power post.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

Is there no way you can have a dedicated battery nearer the windlass? Mine is in a box directly below the windlass. The cable is about a foot long, no power drop.

pete

 

[mvweebles]

I would not try soldering it. Either use a good butt connector or 2 ring terminals and a power post.

Here is a butt connector for 4AUG from Grainger. But it sounds like access to press-fit will be difficult. Comodave's idea of a post probably makes the most sense.

https://www.grainger.com/product/2F...s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916716157!!!g!88855682517!

 

[caltexflanc]

Assuming there is a ring connector on the end of the existing cable, I agree with using a power post. Also assuming this is all taking place in an anchor locker, it will be easier to have a cable of the same size fabricated to go to the windlass contacts as well. Just make sure the post is contained in a box of some sort and sprayed with protectant like Boeshield.

 

[mvweebles]

Another option - looks like the clamp-bolts are hex-head so you can get some ooomph on them. Maybe stuff some dielectric grease in prior to adding cable and bolting down? You may want to put a digital thermometer on whatever solution you use and see how it goes.

https://www.grainger.com/product/25...kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915667!!!g!461787464874!

 

[C lectric]

Those should work just fine. Never thought of them. After a year I would cut the heat shrink back and recheck the tightness of the screws. The wire MAY cold flow a hair.

Maybe purchase an extra piece of the heat shrink for both splices and slide them on while doing the initial work.

Eliminates the need for the crimper.