Battery switch

[lipets]

these have spring on the top with a rubber boot


how do they work they look like a disconnect?

I push down and it snaps, can't tell off/on

 

[4fun1]

They look like electrically activated contactors.

 

[syjos]

Remote operated solenoids.

 

[ben2go]

Circuit breakers?

 

[sdowney717]

Circuit breakers?

Especially if they have an embossed number amp rating on them.
they look like large DC breakers. Wires going in are big ones. Makes sense.

 

[angus99]

They look like remote battery disconnects. We have a Blue Sea version on each bank that allows us to shut down the batts from the saloon. Recommended by my electrical consultant as a means to isolate a fault without having to run down to the ER.

 

[sdowney717]

If I had wired up such a panel would have used DC breakers which can be disconnected. Maybe the cost was too high for those so they used disconnect switches.

Here is what a 200 amp looks like and its clearly labeled so no wondering what it is..
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

 

[lipets]

Apparently activated by these rocker switches

 

[lipets]

Best part is the PO deleted one on the engine start batteries, have no idea why


there are 6 G24 house batts (about 80 amp hours each) two 6volt golf batts have that much I think



And one G31 start batt, it starts both engines


So he circumvented the purpose of those switches


Now I need to figure out how to add back the 2nd start battery cables and wire it all back the way it should be.


After I get that figured out I think I'll use the G31 on the Gennerator that one is weak.


test two of the G24's and use those for starting


get 8 6Volt golf cart batts for house


any other ideas?

 

[caltexflanc]

Benneteau is no help? Wiring schematics, operating manuals etc? They should able to provide you with all that, and an "as built" summary of your hull number as it left the factory. No?

 

[lipets]

Benneteau is no help? Wiring schematics, operating manuals etc? They should able to provide you with all that, and an "as built" summary of your hull number as it left the factory. No?

You would think!


The issue is the dealer at Dennison in ft Lauderdale is trying his best,

but this is hull #2 built (first one shipped to USA)

and changes were made on the next 400 that were built.
In fact he had to email France for certain specs, so can't complain about helping out.


This issue since PO made changes he just don't know.

 

[lipets]

Benneteau sent a wire diagram, so I was able to trace out all the cables.


Had to cut a few tie wraps to sort them out and get them labeled.


The PO had receipts from Franks Marine in Pensacola Fl, from what see of lack of quality & workmanship this is a yard to stay away from!

Star engine cable was wired to house bank,



Those battery switches are just on/off from rockers in the main cabin


So tomorrow I'm pulling all of them out cleaning the battery boxes and bilge area etc.

 

[FF]

"Now I need to figure out how to add back the 2nd start battery cables and wire it all back the way it should be."

The usually rotary switch to select the start battery should have 2 small alt field disconnect terminals.

If by accident the switch it turned to OFF with the engine operating it will save your alternator.


These have been OTS for half a century + , but many boat builders cant be bothered with having them hooked up.



Battery Switch - Marinco

www.marinco.com/~/media/inRiver/317638-11622.pdf
Alternators with EXTERNAL REGULATOR: Remove regulator field wire (regulator “F” terminal) and connect to new wire leading to Guest battery switch field terminal (either terminal). Add another wire from other switch field terminal and connect to regulator “F” terminal. Use #14 AWG wire for new circuit.

 

[sdowney717]

"Now I need to figure out how to add back the 2nd start battery cables and wire it all back the way it should be."

The usually rotary switch to select the start battery should have 2 small alt field disconnect terminals.

If by accident the switch it turned to OFF with the engine operating it will save your alternator.


These have been OTS for half a century + , but many boat builders cant be bothered with having them hooked up.



Battery Switch - Marinco

www.marinco.com/~/media/inRiver/317638-11622.pdf
Alternators with EXTERNAL REGULATOR: Remove regulator field wire (regulator “F” terminal) and connect to new wire leading to Guest battery switch field terminal (either terminal). Add another wire from other switch field terminal and connect to regulator “F” terminal. Use #14 AWG wire for new circuit.

I entirely solved that disconnect issue.
I put the output of each alternator directly on the 3 way switches on the lug that runs to the batteries, 2 alternators, 2 switches. And I fused it for 80 amps with a fuse, not a switch, so it is always connected. Not sure a 12si alternator would have a problem being disconnected. Spin the two 3 way switches I have however you wish, will not disconnect the alternators. If someone accidentally grounded the wire at the alternator the fuse will blow. Its been like this for over 3 years and no troubles.

I have never seen my alternators put out even 60 amps, not even sure they could do 80 but that is the max rating. I also have them combined on a switch-relay, so I suppose 160 amps max available. I have burnt up a belt, my guess that could happen again.

 

[lipets]

From Benne

 

[FF]

The only hassle with two alt outputs to the batt bank can be longer charge times.

With one alt to one bank, the second charging the other bank , the voltage on each banks is usually higher (shorter charge times) .

The hassle is which ever alt has a slightly higher volt out put will dominate and the other will be less effective.

Also there is the problem of any one batt cell going down and the entire set goes flat.