Is there a tool? (spinning bolt)

[Vashon_Trawler]

I have bolts that are loose and I absolutely cannot access the bolt's head but there is plenty of stem sticking out. Is there a tool that would keep the bolt from spinning while I tighten the nut? Maybe a tool that would bite on the bolt while I tighten the nut? Pliers would tear up the threads. I am sure there has to be some solution--maybe a trick that I have overlooked?

 

[Nightsky]

I'm not aware of any tool that can grab the bolt while spinning the nut (doesn't mean one doesn't exist) but maybe a pneumatic lug wrench could spin the nut fast enough that it could get the nut moving before the bolt catches up and starts spinning. Might help to loosen the nut with Liquid wrench" or similar product first.

 

[ctjstr]

use a separate nut and a "jam" nut. Depending on how much thread you have, you can double the nuts, either regular ones, or the thinner jam nuts. Once those are tightened against each other, you can often hold the bolt and tighten the original nut.

 

[Vashon_Trawler]

It is a very tight space. There are several bolts under the cap rails that are loose. The original cable clamps were also attached to the bolts. I need to replace the cable clamps (builder used galvanized steel clamps that have rusted away) but I cannot take several off because the bolt is spinning freely (the cable clamp is sandwiched between to nuts).

 

[Vashon_Trawler]

use a separate nut and a "jam" nut. Depending on how much thread you have, you can double the nuts, either regular ones, or the thinner jam nuts. Once those are tightened against each other, you can often hold the bolt and tighten the original nut.

Ah! Good idea! There is plenty of thread available.

 

[bayview]

If the underside of the bolt is available can you use an extension and a socket?

The nut should move freely on the bolt. Is it dirty? I have used needle pliers to hold bolts just to overcome some initial friction. Also pushing the bolt to the side may add enough friction to get the nut going.

 

[Northern Spy]

Double nut is the cheap and easy way to go. But there is such a thing as a stud removal tool that would work. It is a threaded collet that you run on to the protruding thread, and then a tapered chuck is tightened down on it, essentially making a really tight fitting long nut that grips the stud tightly.

Pretty specialized tool. I used to use them in a valve repair shop, but would guess that a good independent auto mechanic might have a kit laying around.

But really, it sounds like it needs cutting off and replacing to me.

 

[hmason]

Perhaps you could cut a slot in the end of the bolt with a Dremel tool. Then hold the bolt still with a screw driver.

 

[GFC]

How about a pair of lock jaw pliers with a thin nose?

 

[Lou_tribal]

If the end of the bolt (and depending of the size of yhe bolt) is accessible you can use a hack saw to cut a grove so you can use a screwdriver to held it while you are tightening the nut.

Edit: just saw the post from hmason , same idea

L

 

[BIG CAT]

Google stud installer. Be careful with them. As they can damage threads. Another option is to do a double nut locked together above the nut you need to tighten. Cat sells a threaded collet stud installer/remover that works well but you would have to but thread specific collets for different size bolt/studs.

 

[menzies]

It is a very tight space. There are several bolts under the cap rails that are loose. The original cable clamps were also attached to the bolts. I need to replace the cable clamps (builder used galvanized steel clamps that have rusted away) but I cannot take several off because the bolt is spinning freely (the cable clamp is sandwiched between to nuts).

OK, another thought, though a bigger job.

If I understand what you are saying, would it help if you removed the cap rail and reset everything from scratch?

So undo the bolts you can, cut off the other bolts, reset the clamps and cap rail with new bolts the way you want.

 

[bayview]

You will seal the bolt hole so why not put sealer in the hole work the bolt up and down for good converge then clamp it in place until the sealer dries. That should hold the bolt.

 

[Mrwesson]

If i'm not misunderstanding that you can't access each side of the bolt at the same time.. What I do is clamp vicegrips(bentnose grips work best) onto the nut on one side(or bolthead) at an angle where once turned from the top the vicegrip will hit hit a wall or something around the bolt allowing me to turn it.

Sounds complicated but it's easy. I also find that even if the vicegrip doesn't hit anything the additional weight of it clamped onto a nut allows the bolthead i'm turning to at the very least get it close to tight and work from there. 50% of the time the weight is enough to get it REALLY tight.