How do I repair patches of discolored and rippled interior cabin veneer, please? I think I can get the veneer, and maybe even match it. But if I manage to cut it to fit nicely, and that looks tough, I can't see how to clamp it in place on a section of bulkhead, and I don't know the glue that might make it stick even if I can roll out the bubbles...
Teak Veneer
- Thread starter seawolf
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FF
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"and I don't know the glue that might make it stick even if I can roll out the bubbles.."
Contact cement (rubber glue) comes in a spray can , easy to use..
Contact cement (rubber glue) comes in a spray can , easy to use..
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Yup, spray contact cement.
Welcome aboard. Yup, spray contact cement.
Capitaine R
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Maerin
Guru
Perhaps not close, but if you're in the area, Marine Liquidators in Ft. Peirce has stacks of veneer plywood, veneer sheet, lumber, all sorts of fabrication stuff that they've acquired from manufacturers, and other sources. I'm sure some of the TF flock who were in Ft. Peirce recently (we missed out) can attest to the dizzying amount of inventory they maintain. It's well-organized and not a junk heap like so many of the consignment places. Just LOTS & LOTS of stuff.
TDunn
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Veneer is normaly applied with contact cement. Apply cement to substrate and the veneer. Allow it to dry. Put some wax paper over the spot where the veneer will go, align the veneer, then slide the waxed paper out. Roll it out as you slide the waxed paper out. You only get one try with contact cement.
DHeckrotte
Guru
You can source Teak veneer on eBay.
Contact cement in a spray can is an easy way to apply a reasonably uniform thickness. I used to use it for veneering. No longer: it creeps, veneer shrinks and cracks appear. The thickness is not necessarily uniform and might be thick enough so that the new patch will not be flush with the rest.
I’ve used PVA (yellow carpenters glue) but you’re time limited for gluing large areas, the stuff is gummy when sanded, there’s often a residue which shows after varnishing.
Traditional furniture veneer was done with hide glue. Not water resistant. You used to set it in place with veneer irons - like burnishing.
I use epoxy. Can be scraped or sanded clean. Rigid. Clamp with tape, wood blocks and clamps, blocks and spring sticks, ballast.
Contact cement in a spray can is an easy way to apply a reasonably uniform thickness. I used to use it for veneering. No longer: it creeps, veneer shrinks and cracks appear. The thickness is not necessarily uniform and might be thick enough so that the new patch will not be flush with the rest.
I’ve used PVA (yellow carpenters glue) but you’re time limited for gluing large areas, the stuff is gummy when sanded, there’s often a residue which shows after varnishing.
Traditional furniture veneer was done with hide glue. Not water resistant. You used to set it in place with veneer irons - like burnishing.
I use epoxy. Can be scraped or sanded clean. Rigid. Clamp with tape, wood blocks and clamps, blocks and spring sticks, ballast.
Russell Clifton
Guru
Not sure which coast you are on but Edensaw Woods in Port Townsend Wa. has all kinds of marine wood. http://http://www.edensaw.com/
caltexflanc
Guru
Atlantic Veneers in Beaufort NC (also has variety of hardwoods)
http://www.atlanticveneer.com/AV__Mill_Contacts copy.htm
World Panel in Windsor NC and Riviera Beach FL (I only have direct experience with the NC branch) https://www.worldpanel.com/
In each case, a phone call is your best bet. Nice folks all.
http://www.atlanticveneer.com/AV__Mill_Contacts copy.htm
World Panel in Windsor NC and Riviera Beach FL (I only have direct experience with the NC branch) https://www.worldpanel.com/
In each case, a phone call is your best bet. Nice folks all.
Good luck with your project.
I have tried veneer onto a vertical surface and found it fraught with difficulties. Once complete, the project had an amateur look about it, so I returned to using thin plywood with a compatible veneer top layer. Still difficult to fit, but once installed, had a much more professional look.
Unless you have lots of experience with veneers, a plywood material will always be easier to work with.
HDeckrotte, above, always gives good woodworking advice.
I have tried veneer onto a vertical surface and found it fraught with difficulties. Once complete, the project had an amateur look about it, so I returned to using thin plywood with a compatible veneer top layer. Still difficult to fit, but once installed, had a much more professional look.
Unless you have lots of experience with veneers, a plywood material will always be easier to work with.
HDeckrotte, above, always gives good woodworking advice.
I will take your explicit and Mr Deckrotte's implicit advice. Do Nothing. I do not wish to be fraught. I will build a ukulele and fret that.
