How do you set your anchor?

[Coastal Cruiser]

Once enough scope is out we secure the rode and keep the boat moving very slowly backwards until the anchor catches. Then we gradually throttle up in reverse to 1000-1200 rpm. This will get the chain fairly tight. If conditions warrant (expecting a windy anchorage) maybe go to 1400-1500 rpm.

Powering up in reverse is gradual-keeping chain taut until desired rpm reached. Does anyone let the rode go slack a bit and then resume reverse to snatch the chain taut a little bit?

Boat is powered by a single John Deere 6068TFM - 158 HP.

 

[sunchaser]

We drop, idle back, when chain tight shut down. Never grasped the rationale of higher RPM backing down in 360 degree swing areas where we commonly anchor.

 

[boomerang]

We drop the anchor until it hits bottom, back down until the desired amount of scope is achieved, secure the rode & back down hard. If it doesn't set, repeat. Done. No need for a short essay regarding our technique...

 

[dhays]

We drop the anchor until it hits bottom, back down until the desired amount of scope is achieved, secure the rode & back down hard. If it doesn't set, repeat. Done. No need for a short essay regarding our technique...

Please define “hard”.

 

[boomerang]

Please define “hard”.

Hard enough to set the anchor.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Veerryyy Sloowlly ...

I get on my reenforced rubber gloves and go out on the bow. Open the box w the rode in it and pull out the chain and wire rope (3’). Then go back and canoiter w Chris at the helm through the window. When we are stopped at the preferred drop spot (established prior by going around the anchorage staring at the GPS and the shore). I go fwd and lower the anchor paying out the rode. Faster if it’s windy .. slower if not. When the anchor hits bottom I pick it up about a foot and give Chris the back down very slowly hand signal. When I see a bit of way on I slowly pay out some rode keeping the anchor on the botton just barely. This way we lay out the rode basically in a straight line w the anchor shank pointing at the boat. Then I pull a small amount of tension and feel the bottom through the rode and have an Idea what it’s like especially if it’s rocky. Very rare in the PNW. After the rode gets close to a 45 degree rake to it I pay out line faster w little or no tension. Signal Chris to cut power w enough way on. Power on and off. I make the line fast to my dedicated anchor cleat when (per the marked rode) there is enough line out for one more scope # than we plan to anchor at. 4-1 to anchor at 3-1 ... typical. Then reverse again in and out of gear a few times (2 or three typ) and let soak at idle for a minute or so then increase to 1400rpm until the line gets real tight. 1000rpm is idle. While doing that I pull hard sideways by hand against the line on deck and feel for telltale vibrations and tightness or a tendency to loosen up. After 5 or ten seconds of that I give Chris the cut power signal and secure all loose gear. Turn on the propane for dinner.

 

[MurrayM]

We pick out and mark a spot on the ipad using Navionics, do a spin around the area to see if there are any big submerged stumps or rocks on the depth sounder, then my wife eases up to the chosen spot into the wind.

Once there, she stops the boat and I lower the anchor by hand. When the anchor touches bottom I give her the 'ease back slowly' signal and pay out the nylon rode until it's about 1:3 in scope, then I temporarily tie off the line.

At this point I put my hand on the rode where it comes over the anchor pulpit and 'feel the bottom' as the anchor gets pulled, digs in, and the boat stops. Once that happens the rode is untied and my wife continues backing the boat until proper scope is reached, I tie it off, and she gives it another good pull with my hand again on the line as it comes over the pulpit, just to be sure.

Also use a small handheld rangefinder to confirm distances to shore and/or objects.

 

[Group9]

We back down just hard enough to set the snchor and know it will set in that particular place. Because, as mentioned, if the wind or current changes, it will have to set again anyway.

 

[O C Diver]

I own a Rocna. You drop the anchor with 7:1 scope (all chain), attach the snubber, and turn the engine off. Mother nature takes care of the rest.

Ted

 

[jleonard]

I use a Danforth, and it sets itself at about 50-60 feet . Then I let out 100 feet and attach the snubber, then idle in reverse until the snubber takes the load.

 

[AKDoug]

I motor upwind of my desired location, and then turn back downwind (or down current) and take it out of gear while coasting. Drop while still moving and play out enough line to be happy, then cleat off on the Sampson post and watch my rode stretch out and feel the boat pivot on the hook.

I can tell if it's a good set by how the boat stops, pivots, and what the rode does when the hook sets. Another happy Rocna owner, and I usually set at about 4:1 scope unless I expect high winds. I always anchor in protected locations for the night so I get a good nights sleep.

I read an article on the force a couple of knots of momentum puts on the ground tackle, and I am confident of my set when things "look/feel right".

 

[Group9]

We had a Rocna on our last boat. We have a Mantus on our present one. Both set easily and hold great.

 

[Larry M]

I own a Rocna. You drop the anchor with 7:1 scope (all chain), attach the snubber, and turn the engine off. Mother nature takes care of the rest.

Ted

 

[Simi 60]

Manson Supreme.
Drop anchor and chain, attach snubber, let weight of boat, wind and current do the rest.
600 days on anchor and we haven't had a problem yet.

Works well short scoped.
We are currently anchored close to a drying bank so can't afford to swing in, but we are in 10 metres of water, 20 knots of wind and strong tidal current with 180degree reversal every change.
We have 25 metres out and haven't moved an inch in 2 days.

Usual anchoring sees us do 5:1 set.

 

[Lepke]

I freefall the chain where I want the anchor placed, and then back down, at idle on one engine until the hook sets. I usually anchor where wind is from a constant direction. In areas with strong tidal currents, I use a stern anchor.

 

[Ex Sailor]

We get over our spot into the wind, let out enough chain + and we pay out as we drift back. When we have enough out, wife stands on the chain and we back down gently, when the chain lifts wife ... we are set and may pay out more if needed. Then it's the celebratory beer / white wine for the wife and it's done. Backing down " hard " never worked for me .....

All this is contingent on not having a piece of sh*t for an anchor or, almost no chain ......

 

[Nomad Willy]

Ex Sailor,
Got a pic of wife standing on chain?
Does she use both feet?

 

[Ex Sailor]

Ex Sailor,
Got a pic of wife standing on chain?
Does she use both feet?

LOL ...... I will try to find one to post and ... yes ! It took awhile, but it's getting down to fine science now ...... FB

 

[caltexflanc]

I like what an old friend of mine used to say, a guy who literally anchored 100 times a year all over the eastern seaboard. "drop your anchor, pay out your scope. Pour yourself a drink". After sipping that drink, power back a little. Then pour another drink. All chain with a CQR (the horror!) in his case.

 

[koliver]

I own a Rocna. You drop the anchor with 7:1 scope (all chain), attach the snubber, and turn the engine off. Mother nature takes care of the rest.

Ted

How one anchors is determined so much by your location. Ted is on the East coast, anchors in shallow water.
Eric is on the west coast, in deep water, so what is required is very different.

If I have anchored in the last few years where there was room for a 7:1 scope, I can't recall it.

If I used Eric's technique, or a 7:1 scope as Ted advises, I could use a rock on the end of my chain and I am sure it would hold.

 

[BruceK]

For me, applying some judicious power, maybe more than once, after setting, is as much a test of the set as a dig in procedure.
The abstemious Nigel Calder recommends making a cup of tea after anchoring, and watching chosen landmarks for any change of position which might suggest dragging.

 

[AusCan]

I usually anchor in limestone covered by shallow sand or weeds. I use a Marsh anchor which is very uncommon outside South Australia, but is the most popular anchor here.

The anchor doesn't "set" like other anchors. In shallow sand it drags along the limestone bed until it finds a ledge to grab. In weedy/reefy areas the bottom is usually more broken up, and the the anchor will grab immediately.

Either way I test the hold with a strong pull (about 2000 rpm) after setting anchor, and again after a tidal or wind change if I'm awake.

 

[Lou_tribal]

This bring a question to my sick mind. Up here most of the anchorage I go are thick heavy clay. When set you are set and to pull the anchor I pull the rode by hand (if no wind) then chain until I am right on top of the anchor than need to put engine in strong reverse to break out. My question is when you are set on rock, limestone or any type of rock, what is the process to pull out?

L

 

[psneeld]

absolutely...no one way is correct....

only experience and trial and error give each boat and skipper the right answer.

 

[River Cruiser]

I drop it and let the current set it, check landmarks and gps location.

 

[AusCan]

This bring a question to my sick mind. Up here most of the anchorage I go are thick heavy clay. When set you are set and to pull the anchor I pull the rode by hand (if no wind) then chain until I am right on top of the anchor than need to put engine in strong reverse to break out. My question is when you are set on rock, limestone or any type of rock, what is the process to pull out?

L

Lou, The same method is used to retrieve an anchor with almost any type of bottom. The only thing that varies is the likelihood of getting stuck.

I haven’t lost an anchor yet but some people run a second line from the bottom of the anchor to a buoy at surface. This can be used to pull the anchor backwards.

 

[AKDoug]

I carry dive gear, but have not hung an anchor since I started carrying it. I stuck one once, a much larger boat was unable to free it and gave up, then "magically" it freed itself. I was in about 40' of water, and the current must have carried the line under a rock (big rocks around there) when the tide switched.

The Danforth Hi Tensile had one damaged fluke on it...

I have seen lots of anchors damaged by "power pulling" them on a float up here. I think usually the float buoy is too small for the anchor and there isn't enough lift to start the anchor "up", so it just rips it out of the bottom instead of lifting it off.

 

[Peter B]

I motor upwind of my desired location, and then turn back downwind (or down current) and take it out of gear while coasting. Drop while still moving and play out enough line to be happy, then cleat off on the Sampson post and watch my rode stretch out and feel the boat pivot on the hook.
I can tell if it's a good set by how the boat stops, pivots, and what the rode does when the hook sets. Another happy Rocna owner, and I usually set at about 4:1 scope unless I expect high winds.

I do that also...it's sometimes called the yachtsman's drop - love it.

I own a Rocna. You drop the anchor with 7:1 scope (all chain), attach the snubber, and turn the engine off. Mother nature takes care of the rest.
Ted

...or this, depending on situation and direction I came from. I have a Super Sarca. 's'all they need...

 

[Peter B]

Lou, The same method is used to retrieve an anchor with almost any type of bottom. The only thing that varies is the likelihood of getting stuck.

I haven’t lost an anchor yet but some people run a second line from the bottom of the anchor to a buoy at surface. This can be used to pull the anchor backwards.

Or you get yourself a Super Sarca, which can be tripped if the need arises, without all that floaty stuffing round. 'Cause the time you foul, by Murphy's law, will be the time you didn't set the floaty thingy.

 

[MichaelB1969]

Had a Delta anchor and anchoring was always a stressful experience for a newbie like me. Upgraded to a Mantus and now I just look to see how other boats are oriented, point that way, drop the anchor to the bottom (I marked every 25 ft on the rode), go into reverse and continue to slowly let out the rode so it makes a line on the ocean floor, then stop laying it down at around 3:1 if it's a short stay and conditions are good (more scope otherwise).

I then continue in reverse and use my finger against a reference point to ensure we're not dragging, then stay in neutral for a minute or two until I "feel" comfortable that we're not going anywhere, then cut the engine and put on the snubber system I bought from Mantus as well. Or of it's a short stay I'll use one of my bow lines and tie it across both cleats on the bow while capturing the rode in the middle so it takes the stress off the windlass.

For what it's worth, the Mantus has set on the first time everytime so far. The Delta would sometimes take 2 or 3 attempts.

QUESTION: Should I not be setting the anchor without first using snubber to take the stress off the windlass?