Main battery disconnects

[wwestman]

Our boat has both mains directly connected to the start battery. If there is an issue the only way to remove the 12v from the starter is to disconnect at the battery. Not a great idea to have to crawl into the ER with a runaway starter or an electrical fire to unscrew the bolt holding the cable to the battery. Also the 12v cable to the starter is "hot" all the time.

So the options I have been bouncing around are:

1. Put a manual disconnect "1-all-2-off" switch outside the ER and run LONG and LARGE cables to the switch so that I can energize or de-energize the mains from a safe location. (Not on my knees in the ER)

2. Install Blue Sea Remote Switches i.e. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/13/60/Remote_Battery_Switches/ML-Remote_Battery_Switches
in the ER and have a switch on the dash that would operate the remote switch.

The first option involves a lot of cable and thus expense. The second option seems neater but I wonder if that is a good solution if there is a problem (fire, runaway starter etc)

Anybody gone either route? Any other possible solutions?

Thanks

 

[Comodave]

Is there a place that you could mount battery switches in the engine room that you could reach without crawling and not have to run such long cables? Mine are on the bulkhead in the ER but I can lean in from the forward steps and reach the switches without getting down into the ER.

 

[wwestman]

No unfortunately getting into the ER is a pain. Have to swing steps up out of the way and both side of the entrance are cluttered. In addition the battery is at the aft end, so it would not really save me that much cable to put the switch at the entrance, if I have gone that far a couple more feet of cable would get me outside of the ER.

 

[Comodave]

Ok, then I would probably go with the Blue Seas solution. I like their products.

 

[mbevins]

Our boat has both mains directly connected to the start battery. If there is an issue the only way to remove the 12v from the starter is to disconnect at the battery. Not a great idea to have to crawl into the ER with a runaway starter or an electrical fire to unscrew the bolt holding the cable to the battery. Also the 12v cable to the starter is "hot" all the time.

So the options I have been bouncing around are:

1. Put a manual disconnect "1-all-2-off" switch outside the ER and run LONG and LARGE cables to the switch so that I can energize or de-energize the mains from a safe location. (Not on my knees in the ER)

2. Install Blue Sea Remote Switches i.e. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/13/60/Remote_Battery_Switches/ML-Remote_Battery_Switches
in the ER and have a switch on the dash that would operate the remote switch.

The first option involves a lot of cable and thus expense. The second option seems neater but I wonder if that is a good solution if there is a problem (fire, runaway starter etc)

Anybody gone either route? Any other possible solutions?

Thanks

I have the Blue Seas remote switching. I installed them when I did the inverter upgrade. One feeds the house the other the inverter. They work well but do require power to energize so you still need to run a fused supply from the batteries to operate them. Same as bilge pump wiring really.

 

[dhays]

Just a couple of questions....
A relay needs power to operate. You can either use the start battery or the house bank for that. In setting it up, I think there are a couple of things you want to ensure. First is that you have a way to start your engines from the house bank if your starter battery is dead. Secondly, you want to ensure that the relay will be energized as needed in the case of a dead battery.

Blue Seas makes a relay that has a manual override. I think this is a good idea as you can manually connect it if there is a problem with the relay or the battery powering the relay.

 

[Xsbank]

Make sure that whatever switch/disconnect you use is rated for the starter inrush current. That's probably why there isn't one now.

 

[Lou_tribal]

I will sound old school and this only express a personal opinion. I would never solely rely on something wireless for a security/emergency device. I would want something reliable no matter what that is to say in that case a wired switch.

L.

 

[Keysdisease]

What's on the other side of the aft bulkhead? Is there a place where you might be able to mount a switch on the other side of that bulkhead and have easier access?


On thee olde Mainship the engine is under the salon, and I have the battery switches way down low on the salon aft bulkhead, brought the cables through the sole, batteries are just below and you never see them below the arm of the couch

In addition the battery is at the aft end,

 

[Mkeller]

I currently wrestling with the same problem. Adding switches anywhere near the helm would require 20-30 feet of additional battery cable. My plan is to mount a battery disconnect through the back side of the salon walls above each battery. Something like this: Cole Hersee M-284-BX Battery Master Disconnect 1000A 6-36VoltDC | eBay. I'd probably use one with a removable handle.

 

[FlyWright]

Sometimes the closest point for a cable run from the ER is into another stateroom, hanging locker or cabinet. An Emergency OFF switch in these areas can provide an efficient and effective mechanical solution without requiring an electrical connection to solve the emergency.