Which Trawlers do not have steel fuel tanks ?

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antioch01

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28' Cigarette SS, 20' Picklefork jet W/ Blown B/B
Just looked at a nice 1985 41' President. One side fuel tank had been replaced with two aluminum tanks, owner said, but could not see them,,, no idea how and watching U-tube it looks like a hole in the side is the only way to replace it. Did not see any signs of a hole in the side,,,, I was concerned that the remaining tank could go bad so I passed on the deal.
Are there any Trawlers that do not have steel tanks,, or any Trawlers that the fuel tanks can be accessed any easier ?
Are all the Asian trawlers fitted with steel tanks and hard to access or just a group of certain years?
How about any other brands ?
Thanks,
Robert
 
This has been one of my biggest concerns too. So far I have learned that Hatteras, Viking, Gulfstar, Great Harbor, and possibly Hi Star are MY's or Trawlers that have fiberglass tanks.
 
Most sadly do! Long sad stories.

It doesn't have to be a long sad story.

I have iron tanks. If I waited for a trawler to come along without them, I'd be in a retirement community before that happened. On survey, the tanks were not visable. I got a quote for tank replacement (just in case). I wanted to know what kind of money I could potentially be dealing with. It was around 10 grand. This didn't scare me and I immediately started a reserve account for their eventual replacement. As I type this, I still have no issue with my tanks. Who knows? They could out live me.

Personally I did not let iron tanks scare me from a purchase, BUT I am certainly prepared to deal with them and the purchase price reflected it.

Knock on wood, she has been really good.
 
In the 80's etc, The tanks as most mechanical stuff went in before the upper decks. Nobody ever imagined the boats might last 40 or 50+years.
Our Senator has some nicely mounted and accessible tanks (150 each).One Perkins.
Many others of this vintage have no access and must be cut up under deck to remove, then replaced smaller segmented tanks. All tasks I recommend for deeper pockets or much younger than me
 
Thanks,
Found a '88 45' Jefferson close (St. Pete) not sure about the tanks, also has 3208 Cats, would rather have straight 6 Cummins or Cats.
 
Another thought.
As Mister Robinson told young Dustin Hoffman "the future is in plastics"
 
And just like most of us really don't own true "trawlers".....:rolleyes:

The term "black iron" when referring to the steel used to make boat tanks has been around at least as long as most of us been boating.

Whether correct or incorrect, whether accurate or not....do we really want just another semantics topic that the word smith's can fill the forum with? :D

As to being worried about buying with older metal tanks..... I cut mine out and replaced with smaller poly tanks....cost me around $500 total.

Well if you add in a new, better reciprocating saw.....maybe $600.

Not a great job to do, but not my worst. Twins would have changes the equation but still like Donna mentioned, subtract the cost back into the offering price if you think it may have to be done in your ownership.
 
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My 2003 Ocean Alexander has stainless tanks. I can see the entire 300 gallon tank under the rear berth and it looks great from the outside.

Gordon
 
...Are there any Trawlers that do not have steel tanks,, or any Trawlers that the fuel tanks can be accessed any easier ?...QUOTE]

A few Krogen 42's in the early 80's were built with fiberglass tanks. Most of the other 42's had steel tanks when built and the tank(s) can not be removed from the engine room in one piece. However there are quiet a few 42's that have been retrofitted with aluminum tanks.
 
Selenes have had aluminum tanks since first introduced in 1999.
I am curious how well the built-in fiberglass tanks hold up?
 
Hatteras LRC's and Nordhavns have fiberglass tanks, which will give you unlimited life. This was one of my criteria's when searching for a boat. My previous 48LRC Hatteras was nearly 40 years and the tanks looked like new when did a interior inspection.
 
been my previous boats always stainless steel(AISI 316) tanks of water, fuel and black water.


I find it amazing that the current Nordic Tug has been used in the aluminum water and fuel, black water laminated hull. I think the Nordic Tug is an expensive boat, still used in low-cost solution for these, I do not understand this line. previous boat was a motor boat from Polish Galeon Yatch affordable brand.
 
I will take a properly engineered, built in fiberglass tank every time...


It is not necessarily a low cost solution.
 
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I have just started cutting out the stbd tank (200 gls). I prefer to do it now before they do leak and my options in low cost replacement disappears. Its upwards of 18K if the yard does it. Kemah has lots of oil money and pirates...

Im a bit stumped in how everyone uses a sawall as I only have about a 1/2" clearance between the hull sides and bottom and the tanks themselves. Im hoping a small handheld circular saw with a steel blade can get it done.
 
Fiberglass sounds good, but being a machinist, I am partial to Stainless, 304 is OK, but especially 316.
There are so many parts such as barbecue grills made of 400 series magnetic stainless it makes me sick. It rusts just as bad as steel, but they can advertise stainless.
I am currently looking for a 44 Gulfstar motor yacht, with twin Perkins.
 
Barnacles,, Are you cutting the outside of the boat ? How are you going to replace the outer wall ? That is the part that is scary to me. I would not be afraid of cutting the inside walls, not sure what is between the inner and outer walls,,,, Studs of some type ?
Also,,, be careful of the 4" cut-off,, sparks, vs sawzall
 
For a 200 gallon tank, you can probably get a roto-molded plastic insert. I have read that some owners only partially cut out the old steel tanks , then use the remaining portion as support for the new plastic tank. This approach would avoid your concern about narrow clearances while cutting. You might also consider fitting 2 smaller tanks instead of one large tank to make it easier to retrofit.
No direct experience here, just stuff picked up over time on this forum!!
 
Fiberglass sounds good, but being a machinist, I am partial to Stainless, 304 is OK, but especially 316. .

SS is approved for diesel fuel tanks if it is 316L or 317L and minimally 0.0747" thick. 304 not so good. The L stands for low carbon, meaning it can be correctly welded. Many Al tanks have corroded out due to dissimilar metals being used, similarly the same can happen to SS. Unlike standard steel, both Al and SS need good air circulation to allow the protective oxidation process to work.

Steel tank failure can be usually be traced to lousy install or water (especially salt water, wet bilges are a no no) dripping onto them from teak decks, fill points etc.

And yes, FRP is great, especially when laid up properly as part of the hull. Surprisingly, osmotic blisters can occur in FRP tanks just like on a hull bottom and can theoretically lead to tank failure. High nickel steel like Monel is preferred by many. Back in the day, Monel tanks were a huge selling point on many boats - I had them in a Trojan woodie.
 
Im a bit stumped in how everyone uses a sawall as I only have about a 1/2" clearance between the hull sides and bottom and the tanks themselves. Im hoping a small handheld circular saw with a steel blade can get it done.
If that doesn't work you could try a small electric cut off tool or small air cut off tool if you have access to compressed air. If you go pneumatic put a swivel between the tool and air line, it makes working in tight places easier. When searching for one these tools they are sometimes called die grinders. The two I've linked are very inexpensive, cheap enough to take 'em for a test drive and toss in the dumpster if they don't work.

An oscillating multi tool might work, the blades can be mounted to work in any position. The Fein Tool is the original, but they're spendy. Harbor Freight has a cheap version to try out. Fein or Harbor Freight I think the work will go painfully slowly and you'll spend a small fortune on blades.

The tools above are all pretty light weight and may not be up to the task if your steel tanks are thick walled. If so try a 4" angle grinder with cut off wheels. If you've never used one in a tight place practice first out in the open with easy access. To get into the tight spots you'll most likely have to work with the guard and handle off. They can kick hard when you bind them. I've got the scars to prove it.

If all else fails you can get creative. I've had to force a sawzall to make shallow cuts. Mount the shortest blade you can. Pad the foot with something of the correct thickness such that the blade barely penetrates the far side of the work on the in stroke. Make sure there is clearance on the out stroke between the work and what you're trying not to damage. Hang on tight.

Be careful. Diesel, paint, wood and fiberglass can be ignited by sparks. A welder's blanket to catch the sparks. A fire extinguishers and a charged water hose near by are all good precautions to take.
 
Have a 86' jefferson45 . Changed tanks out to aluminum by lifting engines over other while installing new tank. Cut out old and had to reduce size of new to get thru rear window. Did it with a few buddies and yard lift. It can be done if you think it Thur and have the help.
 
That would be fine with me,,,,,, just not going to cut holes in the bottom or sides.
Thanks, I will look at Jeffersons and Gulfstars from what I hear.

I have a line on a 41' President but so far it sounds like a hole in the side is the only way to access the tanks.
 
That would be fine with me,,,,,, just not going to cut holes in the bottom or sides.
Thanks, I will look at Jeffersons and Gulfstars from what I hear.

I have a line on a 41' President but so far it sounds like a hole in the side is the only way to access the tanks.


That also is no big deal if done correctly.

It has been done plenty of times and I don't recall a failure.

Also tens of thousands of major repairs done through the years with only a fraction having subsequent problems...and who knows why they happened or who did the repair.

A good glass job is no different than welding in a new plate...the glass repair is only as good as the glassman...and the weld only as good as the welder.
 
Had several yard estimate the replacement and they didn't have a clue. One wanted to go thru the side,cut ribs ,etc. I ask how he would reglass and he said he didn't know.Another wanted $30.000.00 then will talk about the tanks. . Engine lift was the only way to get tanks in. Crane came in thru Windows and lifted engines while tank came the other side window. Had to size tank so it would fit thru rear window,so I lost about 50 gallons. Don't cruise that much so no problem.Playboy marina / yard was very helpful and scheduling was easy. Think it thru ,get advice and decided what you want to do,as sometimes we know more than the experts.
 
Are some builders still installing steel tanks in new builds?
 
Long before I took a Sawzall to the tanks, I'd take an angle grinder and the cutoff wheels made for it. The Home Despot usually carries two brands of cutoff wheels; you want the 1mm thick ones not the 1/16" thick others. The European-made ones last longer.

Since cutting the 1/8" steel tank would be easy and fast with the angle grinder, you could afford to cut more convenient, smaller pieces at a time.

Sawzalls have their place in the Firmament, but they're noisy, shake things, blades prone to break. Use 'em where you have to.

I've used my angle grinder and cutoff wheel combo for all sorts of tasks, examples: the 1" dia SS propeller shaft in the sailboat, making SS fittings for the Flying Dutchman, making 1/4" thick SS brackets for my new flybridge ladder, removing the huge gravity feed black iron heating pipes from our basement, shaping 1/2" thick steel to fit the stone mantle.
 

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