New construction: She:Kon

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She-Kon

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
466
Location
Canada
Vessel Name
She:Kon
Vessel Make
Bateau TW28
She:Kon is the traditional Iroquois greeting (pronounced 'Say Go') that roughly translates into: Do You Still Have The Great Peace? We chose this name to honor the pleasant little village we live in, Iroquois, Ontario.

The seed

The whole idea began about 1969 when the Hudson Bay replica trading ship, 'Nonsuch' toured the St. Lawrence River and Great lakes. I think it was the 400th. anniversary of the HBC or something. She docked in Prescott Ontario where I grew up and toured the ship a few times. I was awed by the fine craftsmanship and vowed one day to build my own boat.

The proposal

Skip ahead 35 yrs or so and the wife and I are out on our 25' express cruiser on the Rideal Canal. I had been trying to figure out the best time to spring my idea on her to build a boat. After getting 5 or 6 good stiff Rum & Cokes into her I told her: "Honey, the next time we cruise the Rideau it'll be on a boat we built." "Ok." she said just moments before she went below and passed out.

Which boat to build?

I switched into research mode looking at designs & plans for home built boats. We looked at Devlin's, Glen-L's, Bolger's, Diesel Duck's, John Simpson's, Bruce Robert's etc. Originally I wanted to build in steel in the 40' range. We bought a set of study plans from John Simpson for a 45' Offshore trawler and the number crunching began. A conservative guestimate based on the BOM was somewhere in the $340K range, well outside of our means. Reassessing our needs vs wants we eventually stumbled upon the TW28 from Bateau (dot) com.

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Designed specifically for amateur builders the Bateau designs are almost all stitch & glue marine ply & fiberglass. CnC Cut kits are available for most designs as well. I followed along on a few fella's who were building the TW28 and eventually thought 'I could do that too!' The only hook being, I'm gonna stretch it out to 31-1/2'!

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What are we going to need?

So with a newly purchases set of plans it was off to eBay I went! Over the course of 4 or 5 years we bought bits & bobs of hardware etc. that we'd eventually need for the boat. The big recession a few years back put a lot of small builders out of business and many were liquidating their inventory on eBay for deeply discounted prices. We bought lots! Portlights, inverters, hot water heaters, solar panels, windlass, propeller, bow thruster, engine, stove, sinks, yadda yadda yadda. The list is fairly long. I do have a spreadsheet of what we've spent to date if you're interested.

Inventory Photos by KnottyBuoyz | Photobucket

Where to build it?

There's a local DIY boat yard but Unfortunately they're booked solid and couldn't offer me a spot at a price I could afford. The only other option I had was to build it in my back yard. From my property line to the house is about 36' and from the side to the neighbor is 30', 8' of which is taken up by a garden shed. Having to make allowances for neighbor to get to their back yard this left me with roughly 20' x 32' for a boat shed. We looked at RV shelters, green houses etc and eventually found the 'Stimson Bow Shed'. Best $20 I ever spent getting those plans.

The Shed Goes Up!

The Stimson bow shed is a fairly simple structure but don't let that fool you. If built properly it's incredibly rugged with a proven track record around the world. In order to form the bows I needed 1x3" strapping in 20' lengths. The local lumber yards could only supply 20'ers. So I had to splice 4' extensions on each piece.

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I needed a large flat surface to assemble the bows. The only space I had was my newly paved driveway. Out comes the hammer drill and masonry bit to screw down the blocks used to form the bows. My neighbor thought I was nuts drilling holes in my new perfectly fine driveway! 20 bows in all were made this way with the center bow being doubled up. I bought a roll of heat shrink boat covering which turned out not to be such a good idea. More on that later.

With the help of a few friends the shed went up in a week or so.

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Stay tuned for part 2 coming soon.
 
Awesome project. Gorgeous design! Thanks for bringing it here to TF. Can't wait to see it cruising!
 
Awesome project. Gorgeous design! Thanks for bringing it here to TF. Can't wait to see it cruising!

That boat just has the right look. No question about what you are looking at. It is a BOAT. Love it.
 
Rick that is a beautiful piece of work! Welcome and thanks for sharing...
 
Part 2 Some major ingredients

We got really lucky. A few times. Bateau (dot) com has web forums very similar to these that they use for customer support for guys (and girls) building their boats. I happened to become acquainted with one such builder while discussing his TW28 project. Long story short, he changed his mind and decided to build another boat. I got a phone call from him on a Wednesday night. He asked how much I'd offer for his plywood kit. I knew that the CnC cut kits now sell for almost $10K and had pretty much resigned myself to having to buy and cut my own ply for the boat. Told him I'd have to get back to him so I could discuss it with the boss. Our conversation went something like this.

'Dear.'
'Yes dear.'
'Remember our discussing a winter vacation to Jamaica.'
'Yeah.' in a one of those annoying tones of voice only a woman can do.
'Well, I got this phone call. A guy near Boston wants to sell his plywood kit for the boat and wants me to make him an offer.'
'So how much do the kits cost?'
'Ten thousand dollars.'

Dead silence for about a minute.

'And how much are you going to offer him?'
'Well, we've almost got the house paid off and I think I could probably get it for $5K.'
'Soooooooo that means no winter vacation huh?'
'Hmmmm, yeah, sorry.'

Another dead silence.

'Ok, but........'

I think to myself, here it comes!

'But we make a mini vacation of it.'
'Done.'

I made the call later that night and offered him $5K. He accepted, so it was off to Boston on Saturday morning to pick up a u-Haul and the kit. I was up half the night with some sort of stomach distress after eating some clam chowder at an Applebee's. It was food poisoning or a panic attack, I don't know which. Lori was out driving around outer Boston in the middle of the night to find me some Pepto bless her heart.

Anyhow, I survived, probably never eat at an Applebee's again but we picked up the U-Haul and headed to see the guy. When we got there he tossed in not only the kit contents but a set of plans (extra, I already have a set) 18 extra sheets of BS1088 Meranti, the assembled rudder, fiberglass exhaust and shaft tubes plusa big chunk of sapele (5 x 5) he had laminated up for a king post. All in all I figure about $12K at todays prices. We loaded it up and got outta town!

My first WTF have I gotten myself into moments:

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eBay was the avenue to finding a prime mover for our project. I had researched new engines, Nanni, Yanmar, VW, Beta etc. and all were similarly prices in about the $12K range for a 40 Hp with transmission. Being a tight sod (the wife always tells me I can squeeze a nickle and make the beaver sh*t!) I scanned some diesel engine sites and eBay trying to keep my eye out for a suitable used or rebuilt engine/trans. I had seen a few Yanmar 50/55 hp engines come and go on eBay in the $4K-$6K range with 1000+ hours. One particular day I was scanning eBay for stuff. I usually pull up the 'boat parts' listings filtered by 'newest listings' and there it was! Yanmar 4JH-TE, 55 HP, 300 hrs. Bingo!

Buy it now price was $3K. Hit the 'Buy It Now' button and emailed Lori at work.

Honey, we got a motor!

Yahoo! was her reply.

Remember that winter trip to Mexico we were talking about?

Yeah! was her reply.

Well, hmmmmm? I don't think we can afford to go now, I just spent the money on a motor for the boat.

*Sigh* was her reply.

But when I explained to her that night that we'd save about $4K or $5K she was

all for it. I had to promise her a small mini vaccation when we went to get it.

So off it was to Rhode Island to pick up the engine.

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On the way home we stopped at Battleship Cove, Mystic Seaport (truly a
National Treasure) and later on skipped over to Orange County Choppers before heading home.

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The engine has been sitting in our garden shed for 4 years now. I turn it over by hand every few months during the spring, summer and fall. I'll hook it up to a battery this year and run it up to get some oil up top. It'll be fully serviced before it goes in the boat.

Part 3 coming soon. Standby..
 
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Rick-a helluva project! Bet your neighbors will be glad when the big blue shed comes down! I have to say, although the 28 footer is a very good looking boat, the 31.5 footer is downright beautiful! The added meter really makes for a beautiful sheerline. Please keep us posted as the project progresses.
 
Rick-a helluva project! Bet your neighbors will be glad when the big blue shed comes down! I have to say, although the 28 footer is a very good looking boat, the 31.5 footer is downright beautiful! The added meter really makes for a beautiful sheerline. Please keep us posted as the project progresses.
Oh you don't know how happy I'll be the day that shed comes down! I hate the thing with a passion. I have nightmares every time we get winds over 50 kts of it taking off like Dorothy's house in Wizard of Oz! I've even got RV anchors set deep into the ground with 27,000lb straps holding it down! :lol:

It's sooooo big you can easily see it in Google Earth!

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Thanks for looking in. I'll get this thread caught up to today as quickly as I can.
 
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Part 3 Baking a cake

Building a boat is a lot like baking a cake. You gather the ingredients. Mix them all together. Stick the whole lot in a big hot thing (boat shed) and let it bake!

The first 'Act of Woodbutchery' happened on Saturday, April 2, 2011 at about 12:00 hrs. My friend Andrew cut out the first pieces of the puzzle. From there things snowballed into a frenzy of jig saws, saw dust and piles of unlabelled parts! *sigh*

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One of the first tasks was to set up a 24' long table to assemble the long
panels. It took awhile to get it level from end to end and side to side with those stupid saw horse's but I got close. I covered the table in black plastic to keep from gluing parts to it! I do have one or two brain cells that function from time to time.

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Parts and pieces that I knew I could get glassed with gravity on my side were done first then stacked away. These included the main cabin top, trunk cabin top, foredeck etc. Here's a bottom panel being glued & taped together.

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Just as the designer said the butt joints are pretty strong! I was skeptical but after having flipped a few of these long panels I was a believer. I used a 1500 lb electric winch rigged to the center beam of the shed to lift the long panels. I made a spreader bar out of a piece of electrical conduit and clamped 1x3" strapping to the lifting edge. This allowed me to epoxy & tape one side then flip it over to do the other without breaking the joins.

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The hull sides were the hardest to do. If I remember correctly they were just over 33' long and stuck out the front door of the shed!!!

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I was doing this all along I might add and couldn't have done it without the winch & spreader bar. Knowing I would need some room to move around the boat I had to improvise a small extension.

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Once all the panels were assembled and the bulkheads etc. fibarglassed it was time to tear the table down and assemble the strongback. These are the forms that will define the shape of the hull while it's being assembled.

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It was another test of patience to get it all plumb & level but I got there with the help of my trusty self levelling laser & 6' masons spirit level.

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The first long panels to be laid on the forms were the bottoms. Immediately it became clear that something was wrong. They were nowhere near meeting at the bow like they should. I had to go back to the plans and figure out what I did wrong. Well remember I mentioned that we stretched the hull? Well that was the cause. I didn't cut the splice square and a 1/8" error in the cut midships lead to a 4" error at the bow so I had to cut the panel apart again and splice it back together ont he forms. Had to do this for both sides.

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The long panels were hung and ready to be stitched.

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Part 4 coming soon. Hang in there almost caught up!
 
Rick we may be the only two posters on the forum with stich and glue boats. Really nice job.
 
Rick,
Very nice looking project.
Do you really only get 6 months of the year when you can work on it?
keep it coming.
Love the photo of the completed boat.
Cheers
Benn
 
Howdy Rick...fancy meeting you here. Carry on.

Conall
Hi Conall

Yeah, small world eh? I was looking at the blog stats and saw some referrals from here so I followed them back to the source and here I am! ;)

Now quit looking at boats on the Interwebs and get back to work on that beautiful boat! :D
 
Rick we may be the only two posters on the forum with stich and glue boats. Really nice job.
Thanks Eyschulman. Appreciate the kind comments.

Oh I love those Devlin's! Ever since I saw the Sockeye on the cover of Passagemaker magazine. Very very nice.
 
Rick,
Very nice looking project.
Do you really only get 6 months of the year when you can work on it?
keep it coming.
Love the photo of the completed boat.
Hi Benn

Thanks for looking in. The positive feedback really helps keep the interest in the project alive.

It's true, we usually get 6 months of decent weather to work on the boat. It'll be better once it's flipped over and the thing is enclosed then I only have to heat the boat itself.

I have that picture of the boat everywhere, cell phone, Jeep nav system, computer screen etc. it helps keep the dream alive!

Thanks for looking in. Standby.
 
Benn, a little story if I may.

St. Peter was at the Golden Gate sorting out who went in and who took the down elevator. A group was over to the side. When asked about that group, St. Peter said, "oh, they're from Ontario, and still too cold and wet to burn".
 
Part 4: Hibernating in the land of ice and snow

I often get asked: "What does a frozen Cannuck boat builder do during the long cold winters when you can't work on the boat?" Well, that's a good question. Hibernate is one option, Jamaica or Mexico is another but when I was still working I tinkered with a few minor more cerebral projects.

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One particular winter I was reading one of the web forums and the topic of 'Is it cheaper to build your own electrical distribution panel than buy one?" came up. Ah! A challenge! It was off to eBay to price out some parts and more research on the problem. I stumbled across frontpanelexpress (dot) com. Looked pretty cool, they give you the software to design your panel and price out their service to cut it for you. I tinkered with that for a couple of months, researching what I'd need to put on the panel etc. Here's the one of the draft drawings from the software.

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I probably went through 6 or 7 different configs but knew I wanted the panel to fit within a certain standard footprint. I learned very quickly that you have to pay as much and often more attention to what's going on behind the panel as the pretty side. The switches I chose had a large backside and took up a lot of room necessitating moving breakers & switches & labels around quite a lot. This is what the finished product looks like.

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And the back side.

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You can see things get pretty tight in there in a hurry. All the tiny wires for the LED's make it look messier than it is. The battery switch will not actually switch batteries but just select which battery source feeds the panel. I didn't leave near enough separation between the AC & the DC side and it'll be tight fitting a clear plastic insulating cover but I think I can make it work. I should have also put the labels for the voltage & amperage engraved on the front of the panel. All of the DC circuits will be fused, not breakers, in a separate Bussman ATO/ATC style fuse box.

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If you look close you can see some pretty cool options that'll be switched from the panel! :)

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The second project I did was a 'Mimic Panel' for the boat's electrics. You see these kinda things on larger boats & ships. Again it was just another 'tinkering' experiment. First the dwg from the software.

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And the finished product.

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As you can see in the next pic all the little wires from the LED's make a pretty nasty birds nest. :-( I think I've found a solution to wrangling them, something called 'Poke Home through connector'. The on/off switch turns off almost all the LED's (except crash pump) for night running if they're too bright. I do have an LED dimmer and that might work too. There is also an audible alarm for bilge & crash pump should they operate.

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There, so now you know what we boat builders do in the winter when everyone else is enjoyin' the sunshine & warmth down south!

Another chapter coming soon. Standby...

PS. In answer to your question, can you make one cheaper than buying one? The answer is "NO" and I won't tell you how much it cost me to make these either! :rofl:
 
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Today's update is brief. Yesterday Quikfair'd the stbd bottom panel from about the bow thruster to the back of the keel. A pretty big area to cover. I had intended to go all the way to the transom but by the time I got to the end of the keel it was 95 degs in the shed and the Quikfair was kicking off on the mixing board. Today was spent sanding tape seams and then that entire area I Quikfair'd yesterday.

I made a lot of dust. :dance:

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Rick,
Have you been to BoatDesign.net ? A very big site w tons of designing and building info and building blogs. There are several threads about stretching hulls I thought you may find interesting. For awhile I thought you ditched the stretch idea after buying the kit but it appears you haven't. I'll just follow along.

I'm still thinking about building a 24' skiff in plywood. Plank on frame on a strongback. Doubt if I'll ever have the time though.
 
Hi Eric

I post updates there too. Look for the thread titled: It's been awhile so lets get back up to speed She:Kon Beateau TW28 modified.

Went a few rounds with the design guru's there on my ideas. Got a lot of great feedback from them. I passed my plan by a NavArc at work before I cut any wood. Had it not been a viable option in his opinion I would have stuck with the 28 foot version.

Chime in anytime Eric. I take all feedback, good or bad as constructive criticism. I've changed track a few times based on input from forumites.

If I got one thing to say about your skiff, follow your dream & Go For It! Where can I see more pics of your Nomad?

Thanks for looking in.
 
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Rick,
Glad you've been at BD. Stretching can be simple or complicated depending on the design and where and/or how you want to do the stretch. If you expand all the dimensions of the boat there will be building problems like the dimensions of plywood or the length of fasteners. And if you add to a straight boat like a old 26' Bayliner it will be easy. If you added a straight section to my Willard you'd have a non-fair boat. ectectectect
Looks and sounds like you may have it all handled. Are you stretching all over, just amidships or ??
Was 55hp called for by the NA?
Here's several pics of Willy. I have many pics on a thread "A Long Way Home". Find it in the advanced search. SE Alaska but mostly west coast Canada. About 200 posts and 10,000 views.
 

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That boat just has the right look. No question about what you are looking at. It is a BOAT. Love it.

And…it's not just Gangnam style…it's trawler style…absolutely..!
 
Rick,
Glad you've been at BD. Stretching can be simple or complicated depending on the design and where and/or how you want to do the stretch. If you expand all the dimensions of the boat there will be building problems like the dimensions of plywood or the length of fasteners. And if you add to a straight boat like a old 26' Bayliner it will be easy. If you added a straight section to my Willard you'd have a non-fair boat. ectectectect
Looks and sounds like you may have it all handled. Are you stretching all over, just amidships or ??
Was 55hp called for by the NA?
Here's several pics of Willy. I have many pics on a thread "A Long Way Home". Find it in the advanced search. SE Alaska but mostly west coast Canada. About 200 posts and 10,000 views.
Hey Eric

I've only ever seen one Willard up this way. Captured this pic along the Rideau Canal our first summer there.

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I fell in love with them just then! There just aren't a whole lot of them around these parts. Salty & Sturdy are two words that come to mind! ;)

Just stretching it lengthwise. The stretch was accomplished by duplicating the widest station and adding the same length of separation between it and the next one aft. The colored section below.

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All the long panels had the 39-1/8 section spliced in like the picture below.

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Here's a side panel (33' long) being flipped. You can easily see the splice in the middle.

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The only trouble I had was with some crooked cuts on the bottom panels and they had to be sawn apart and respliced on the strongback. I let the natural curve of the long panels describe the shape and it turned out pretty good. There are some small flat spots along the chine where the spliced in panel is but they will be below the waterline.

I know I will have some issues with the bulkheads when I got to install them. The beam is approx. 2" wider. Just a lil' backyard ingenuity will fix that right up!

Looking down the side you can still make out the splice in this pic. The shape turned out pretty nice.

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The 55 HP is pretty much at the top end limit for this boat. Weight wise, it's Ok. HP req't to drive this hull at speed is about 22 HP at the prop so we'll have plenty in reserve. I'll have enough capacity to add an engine driven cold plate system or another alternator if I choose. The price was right also! :D

Cheers!
 
Part 5 Bending & Stiching & Gluing

Trying to make plywood bend the way it doesn't want to is part of this game. I do believe the kit I bought may have been one of the of the first kits cut for Beateau (dot) com and as such there were a few issues. The most critical was the misplacement of the kerfs on the bottom bow sections.

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You can see the filled kerfs on this pic on the outers side of the hull. They should have been on the inside. It caused a few problems when I pulled the bow panels into shape and the panel cracked leaving a hump. I tried to correct it but couldn't get enough force to push it back into place.

It takes a lot of force to bring these panels together and get them to develop properly over the forms. Much more than I had anticipated. The marine plywood is pretty tough stuff! After much wrangling, strapping, screwing & stitching the bow came together.

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I was gluing the seams and pulled one toooooo many wire ties and *Sproing* it went off like a cannon!

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Some resitching and tape later it all came back as it should be.The rest of the taping of the seams went off without a hitch. I gave myself a fairly large radius on all seams which helped avoid a lot of problems with the tape bridging and creating bubbles.

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Getting the bottom panels to come down to the forms was a bit of a bugger. This is the section that's the most developed and had a lot of tension in the panels. You can see the large zip ties, these were the biggest I could find and something like 120 lbs breaking strength.

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The transom was the only compound part to be assembled. It was made up of two half inch sheets of ply over a form. It took a huge amount of tension to bend them into shape as you can see.

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Spring back after I released the clamps & straps was about 10% which is normal and accounted for in the design of the form.

Next up, Bow Thruster Tube

Standby.
 
Part 6: The Bow Thruster Tube

Why do you need a bow thruster? I get asked that a lot. The short & simple answer is 'Safety'. I consider myself a pretty good boat handler. Our 25' single I/O boat was a bit of a beast to handle. The only time I had a real problem with it was trying to back into a slip in 20kt side wind with a 3kt current on my stern. A thruster would have helped a lot in that situation. We'll likely spend a lot of time cruising canals, it's what we like to do, the Rideau, Trent Severn, Erie, ICW etc. I've heard it many times from people who've boated these waterways that they'd wished they had a thruster.

An old and wise ship captain used to tell me, a thruster won't make a bad boat handler a good boat handler but it will make a good boat handler a great boat handler. That makes sense I think. You still have to be able to handle your boat if your thruster fails. I'm confident I can do that. The 'safety' issue I have is mostly in the canals & locks. Our plan is to have Lori on the bow and me on the stern. This worked well on our old boat. Occasionally the bow drifts off the lock wall and she has to stretch to grab the wire to pull us back in. I don't like that too much and have seen vids of people actually falling into the lock doing just that.

We chose, after much online shopping and opinion research a Lewmar 140TT2.2 (3HP) thruster.

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The company we dealt with gave us a good price for the whole kit, thruster & tube as well as Lewmar was the only company that would start the warranty counting the day the boat goes in the water. Every other one we inquired about starts their warranty period on day of purchase so if we had chosen another brand it would have been out of warranty before it was even installed in the boat.

They say you know you're making progress on your boat the first time you have to cut a hole in the hull you've so carefully built to be water tight! :) Following the instructions I located the thruster as per manufacturers recommendations. This took a little bit of work.

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Once I had the center of my location markded I made myself a marking tool out of a 1/4" steel rod and a sharpie marker. Pretty simple tool if you think about it.

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When cut out the thruster tube was fitted. Went in like a glove.

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Markings were made and the tube trimmed.

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Once realligned in the holes for vertical the tube was glued into place. It will get plenty of tape & fiberglass reinforcement once the hull is flipped. There's also glass from the bottom panels overlapped into the tube. It's not going anywhere!

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This pic is from much later and shows the flare I built up on the leading edge of the thruster tube as well as the Saertex (Carbon Fiber) I put on the bow for collision protection (we have a lot of junk in our river).

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I should add that the thruster has a wireless remote control that Lori will be able to use from the bow should she need to move the boat. That way I don't have to run back and forth to the controls to help her out.

Part 7 coming up, Glassing the hull
 
Rick it looks like you are really making progress. Thanks for sharing.
Bill
 
Rick,
Yes the easiest way to extend. Wish my Willard was extended like that. But if I was to extend Willy I'd do it aft. Don't like the convex hook in the aft end of the hull. I'd rather have a stern more like The KK42. Extending the Albin 25 amidships would be a nightmare. To make a cut across the midships section whereas one could move both ends apart a distance on a straight line would require very curvy cut that would require nightmarish computations and layout. Your boat w an almost straight section amidships extends well.

Didn't know about the 40' Willard pilothouse "Willie". There is a 30' Willard named Willie but we are the only Willy. Far as I know.

I was asking about the power as the stock W30 had a 36hp Perkins propped to only make 33hp. No one has ever complained about having to little power. My Willy has 40hp and hence is a bit over powered. Would have done fine w a 32hp 3 cyl Isuzu but the cost of having a bit too much power is preferable to having too little. And I wanted a 4 cyl engine. Full disp boats are usually powered according to their displacement and Willy's 8 tons. Looks like your boat should require half as much power but 18-20hp doesn't seem right either. One great thing about your engine choice is the engine itself. I've heard nothing but great things about the JH 55 Yanmars.
 
Morning Eric

I couldn't see bringing myself to stretching a beautiful boat like your Willard or any finished boat for that matter. I've seen it done mind you, some turned out Ok and some were horrendously hideous. We actually considered a 30' Bruce Roberts project boat (abandoned by previous builder) and stretching it 6' but on consult with my NavArc buddy the geometry just was too far off.

I know of one TW28 with 85 HP and will actually semi-plane at full throttle. He achieved this by mounting two huge trim tabs on the transom. Not my kind of thrill but I guess if it can be done someone will do it. I'm content to spend the rest of my cruising life puttering around at 7kts. The extra power will come in handy if needed and I have the option of adding some engine driven accessories like a cold plate compressor or an extra alternator or hydraulic pump etc.

If I remember correctly the standard TW28 requires 22 HP at the shaft to make hull speed.

Back in the early 80's a lot of the CG small aux craft all had 4 cyl turbo Yanmars. I guess that's one reason I fixated on them when I was shopping for a prime mover. They suffered terrible abuse at the hands of the deck monkeys who operated them and never complained, just kept purring along.
 

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