wood trim maintenance.

[shufti]

Need some [er lots of] advice on maintaining the exterior wood trim on my boat. Never had any timber on my old boats so have never needed to maintain, hence my total ignorance.

Most of the [I assume] varnish on these bits has come off and I have no idea what is best to use. Obviously I'll have to sand/prep/mask off and that;s no problem - but what is the best product to use after that? Once again - this isn't decking - but rather trim/surrounds.

Cheers!

 

[Hendo78]

Depends on what finish you're after and what your skill level is mate. I personally prefer to remove the trims and spray them in 2pak clear (gloss or matt) Brucek just did his trims and should chime in soon. If not PM him. Cheers Hendo

 

[Phil Fill]

I first used a heat gun to get most of the old varnish off, then a sander with 80 or 100 grit for the rest. I prefer to leave the wood not smooth and with feathers so the varnish has something to stick adhere to rather than just lay on top. Lightly sand between each coat and apply at least 4 coats. For areas that are weather worn I use epoxy for the first coat with varnish over. I have found the polyurethane paints/varnish hold up well.

While you are stripping the varnish might as well stripe the old caulking and replace as well. Apply the vanish first then the caulking. I do not tape when applying the varnish but due tape when doing the calking. It’s a yearly project to keep the bright work up.

 

[Aquabelle]

Bundaberg: keeping varnish up in your climate will be a serious, every 9-12 months job even if you do it all right. Lots and lots of discussion (argument !) on this forum around pros and cons of different treatments. I'm normally in Sydney but am at Mooloolaba now on my way back after a staged cruise to the Whitsundays. Varnish applied in Sydney 8 months before leaving is now a mess in very exposed areas; Cetol applied to flybridge caprail as an experiment looks as-new. I'll be re-doing varnish work in Cetol, using their newer 'Natural' product. I'm also going to experiment with applying Cetol's Gloss Plus as a finishing coat to one area and see if I like the glossiness...it is also supposed to further extend the life of the Natural.

Hendo also has a good point about just painting out with 2-pak.....but obviously this depends on the effect this would have on the look of the boat in your eyes and those of the prospective next purchaser.

 

[shufti]

Thanks for the replies.

On doing a bit of research here, I'm liking the sound of Cetol. Aquabelle - a post on a thread here (from US - i think, i read it here last night and now can't find it) says that Sikken is ceasing production of Cetol. Doesn't seem to be a problem to find out here - I wonder if it's the same stuff? Is this the range of Cetol you've used?

Cheers!

 

[BruceK]

Depends on what finish you're after and what your skill level is mate. I personally prefer to remove the trims and spray them in 2pak clear (gloss or matt) Brucek just did his trims and should chime in soon.

After repetitive annual sanding back and varnishing of exposed cappings on my last boat, on this one I use Deks Olje 1(oil) & 2(gloss). The initial oil saturation takes a day, after that it needs fresh #2 annually, plus some # 1 selectively reapplied, all easily done, saves sand back to green teak every year. Easy to maintain, not as smart as varnish, a compromise not everyone likes. Elsewhere I use/like Cetol Gloss. I hear good things about 2 pack varnishes.I would not remove cappings to refinish, but removable things like flybridge stairs get a much better job done at home.

 

[READY2GO]

shufti
I just used Cetol. Two coats Natural, and five coats clear gloss. It looks fantastic. Hopefuly one maintinence coat a year will keep it looking good for a long time. Have a post on our blog with lots of pics if you are interested.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Re-doing all the bright work. Was using Cetol Marine as maintenance/protective coat on the failing/failed bare spots. Started a couple of months ago with a full scrape down of all old finish to bare teak. Two coats of Cetol Marine thus far.
On the screen door, which is removable, put on two additional coats of Cetol gloss. On a small section I put on a third and fourth coat sanding, fairly aggressively, in between coats. Can says don't sand but finish just wasn't smooth enough so I sanded. I think one more light sanding and another coat of gloss should give me the mirror finish I'm looking for (I hope).
I plan on grooving the joints in the cap rail and filling with black caulk but I'm VERY hesitant to do it free hand and it will be difficult, given the location of the joints with respect to the stanchions, to rig up a guide. THAT one is a head scratcher.
Mr. Ready. Just read your blog but you say you put on varnish not Cetol. Which is it?

 

[Forkliftt]

Bristol Finish is also an option, though not for everybody. It allows you to go "wet on wet" and have a quick build up. Cost here is $60-$70 for the quart kit, I prefer using a quality natural bristle brush (white china), haven't hD much luck using a foam brush.

 

[READY2GO]

RT
Two coats Cetol Natural teak, and five coats Cetol Clear Gloss.

 

[shufti]

R2G - Was the cetol you used the 'marine' grade cetol - or is it the marine division of cetol that has stopped producing?

 

[Daddyo]

I'm working on my rain forest of teak now. Started with two coats of lightly thinned epoxy then topping with five to eight coats of Schooner varnish. The pics are after the first coat of epoxy.

 

[Peter B]

Need some [er lots of] advice on maintaining the exterior wood trim on my boat. Never had any timber on my old boats so have never needed to maintain, hence my total ignorance.

Most of the [I assume] varnish on these bits has come off and I have no idea what is best to use. Obviously I'll have to sand/prep/mask off and that;s no problem - but what is the best product to use after that? Once again - this isn't decking - but rather trim/surrounds.

Cheers!

In light of your description Shufti, I would endorse the vote for Cetol Marine Natural. I use it a lot in similar situations to what you describe, and although it does not ever look as good as real well-kept multi-coated high gloss varnish, it comes close second and is way easier to freshen up each couple of years with minimal sand/clean-up.

 

[shufti]

More interested in preserving the brightwork (I learned a new term this week ) than making a concourse queen so 'second best' in appearance is fine. Pretty much anything will be an improvement anyway.

Ready2Go and Daddyo - very nice looking wood there. That rainforest teak is stunning.

 

[READY2GO]

shufti

This is what I used. I would be very surprised if Sikkens stopped making it, as it is very widely used. I sanded in between every other coat. The directions say not to sand as it will make the overall thickness too thin, but then they only recomend three coats. I was putting on seven so I wasn't worried about thickness.

 

[koliver]

Can't resist jumping in here. many reports of how much the workload differs between Cetol and varnish. Unfortunately, those reports originate only from committed Cetol users. I have tried Cetol and have observed committed Cetol users recoat times. I don't accept the reports that it is less frequent than varnish for similar results.
I do gree that recently redone Cetol looks only second best to recently recoated varnish. What I see is that one year old Cetol has deteriorated just as much as one year old varnish, two year old Cetol needs to be redone, just as two year old varnish needs re-doing. Older Cetol and older varnish both need more work.
My conclusion: No free lunch. To get a good looking wood finish, takes work. A better finish takes more work. Some products get you a little closer, but it still takes more work for a better outcome.
I personally swear by Epifanes varnish. It lasts longer than any other I have tried, goes on easier, requires less sanding between coats. Costs the same as other good varnishes.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I don't understand the passion for Cetol. They are nuts about it in Alaska. Cetol everywhere.

Keith I think Cetol IS a varnish. Never heard or read what's in the stuff but It's just another brand of varnish as far as I can tell and I've never heard otherwise.

I've used McCloskie's varnish. It's wonderful but soft. Actually I don't think there is any difference worth talking about between the high quality varnishes like Epifanes, Schooner, McCloskie's, Deks Olje and several others. They are all made with the same elements now. It used to be that Tung oil and phenolic resin made the best varnish so all you needed to do was read the can. But now it seems the ingredients are the manufacturer's secret .. I don't like it. There may be varnish w unknown names that areas good as the big name varnish but I know of none.

The biggest variable in clear finishes is the preparation. Kinda like the biggest variable in anchoring is the bottom where your anchor does it's work. No miracle product will turn your life around contrary to the opinions expressed on this forum. Just my opinion.

 

[Hendo78]

No miracle product will turn your life around contrary to the opinions expressed on this forum.

NOOOooooo ... Say it isn't so!!! .... Hahaha :-D

 

[shufti]

LOL - bloody killjoy, isn't he

 

[markpierce]

After going through the above, I appreciate the lack of exterior wood and mostly only worry about polishing stainless steel.

 

[shufti]

Bah... that's my next job.

 

[Nomad Willy]

LOL - bloody killjoy, isn't he

Indeed I've been known to do/be that but in this case I'm a bringer of glad news. You don't need to fear your life going south because you failed to find the magic product. Basically any quality product will be excellent as long as you do the prep. Or is that it ... you want the dream to be forfilled w/o doing the prep? Sorry. Even need to do that if you use house paint. And speaking of house paint that will do as many a commercial fisherman will tell you. You'll need to pick a color and accept a finish w/o high gloss though. But when you put house paint on your house you expect it to last well over 10 years and it does well on boats too.

So in a real way I can tell you Hendo "it isn't so". But even w house paint one must use a quality product and do at least some preparation.

 

[Captain K]

Did an experiment 2 years back. Stripped to bare wood my badly weathered handrails, caprails, and other teak exterior trim. Used Epifanes on my port handrail and caprail. On the starboard side I used a good quality clear gloss varnish (with UV protection) purchased at Lowe's for less than half the price. Nine coats on each side using foam brushes. Results? Last spring after a year and a half in the brutal southern sun I could tell no difference whatever in the two sides. Both held up very well and looked sparkling. This past summer as a precaution I did a light sanding of everything with 200 grit paper and added 3 additional coats of the cheap stuff. My plan is to stay on top of it with annual recoatings. I did NOT follow the manufacturer's recommendations (wait 24-hours between coats); rather, I "hot coated," in other words added the follow-up coat as soon as the previous coat was dry enough not to come off when touched, but "sticky" feeling to the touch. Was able to get 3, sometimes 4 coats done in a day of good weather. For what it's worth amigos!

 

[BryanB]

I am refinishing some interior teak cabinets and the Epifanies clear varnish is peeling right off.
I used a thinned first and second coat then straight. This boat went down in salt water.
Is there a particular product I should clean with or prime to get this to stick?

 

[Edelweiss]

but what is the best product to use after that? Once again - this isn't decking - but rather trim/surrounds.

Sikken Cetol - It's a low maintenance non varnish product. Apply it as instructed with brush or rag, then lightly rough it up every Spring with scotchbrite or fine sandpaper and recoat with Cetol light. Wear points can be easily touched up and it will last many years with minimal effort.

 

[BryanB]

Sikken Cetol - It's a low maintenance non varnish product. Apply it as instructed with brush or rag, then lightly rough it up every Spring with scotchbrite or fine sandpaper and recoat with Cetol light. Wear points can be easily touched up and it will last many years with minimal effort.

Is this a product that you would finish interior walls with? I stripped out the old paneling and put in new teak plywood.
Thanks,
Bryan

 

[Edelweiss]

Depends on the finish you are looking for. I opted for more of a flat finish for the teak kitchen salon cabinets. They're not in direct sun all the time, so you have the option of many different products. We tested a number of different finishes and we really liked bare teak finished with three coats of Cetol light. It really soaks into the wood like oil and doesn't lay on the top like varnish. It's been probably five years now and we haven't touched it since and it still looks good.

We were just talking about redoing them, because we bought a new built-in fridge with teak doors and of course they don't match the rest of the cabinets. So we may just do that this summer.

 

[BryanB]

Thanks, I bought some Cetol and am trying it on some sample teak pieces.
Bryan

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. E. So is the Cetol light more matte than the regular Cetol Marine? I'd like to overcoat some interior teak but I find the regular Cetol too glossy. I'd really like to match, as much as possible, the very matte original finish and use as thin a coat as possible. Some of the urethanes I've tested seem to produce too "thick" a finish.
Thanks

 

[sunchaser]

After going through the above, I appreciate the lack of exterior wood and mostly only worry about polishing stainless steel.

Yeah, but wait for a few more years and the steel hull up keep starts, inside and outside. A teak caprail is a piece of cake in comparison.