Propane Locker

[Mark Myns]

My Marine Trader has the propane tank mounted under the upper helm. It is not in a locker which concerns me. It also has a copper line running to the stove. I am going to replace the old 20 lb tank with a new fiberglass 11 lb tank which is plenty for my needs in the summer since I also have an 11 lb fiberglass tank for my grill which is mainly what we use. I want to build a locker to put the new tank in. Can I build it out of plywood and seal all the edges or due I have to use a different material. I know I need to put a drain in to carry fumes over the side.


Next is the copper line. It has no leaks and replacing it with anything else is going to be a nightmare as it goes from the fly bridge to the bilge then back up to the stove. What are the thoughts about connect a new rubber line between the tank and the existing copper? I am including a picture of the current tank and attachment to the copper line.


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[TheAtomicDog]

Hi Mark,

Knowing my boat was sunk by a significant propane explosion has me taking propane pretty seriously. It's heavier than air and can accumulate. Seeing that bottle next to all those taped electrical wires makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up.

Good luck. Be careful.

 

[boatpoker]

My Marine Trader has the propane tank mounted under the upper helm. It is not in a locker which concerns me. It also has a copper line running to the stove. I am going to replace the old 20 lb tank with a new fiberglass 11 lb tank which is plenty for my needs in the summer since I also have an 11 lb fiberglass tank for my grill which is mainly what we use. I want to build a locker to put the new tank in. Can I build it out of plywood and seal all the edges or due I have to use a different material. I know I need to put a drain in to carry fumes over the side.


Next is the copper line. It has no leaks and replacing it with anything else is going to be a nightmare as it goes from the fly bridge to the bilge then back up to the stove. What are the thoughts about connect a new rubber line between the tank and the existing copper? I am including a picture of the current tank and attachment to the copper line.


.View attachment 112105

Check this out and email me boatpoker@gmail.com and I'll respond with pdf of ABYC Standards for propane.

Safe Boat Propane System Installation

 

[Bill V]

When I made the decision to install a propane furnace and replace the stove/oven with a new unit I first looked at my propane tank. Mine was on the upper helm in a dash locker much like yours. Solid copper lines and lots of wiring in the locker as well. I looked at all the propane lockers on the market and at ABYC Standards for propane use and safety considerations. Not finding anything I liked I built my own from 3/16" marine grade plywood and applied fiberglass cloth/resin to seal it. Installed on my swim step and ran new continuous propane lines to the stove/oven and the furnace with propane leak sensors for each appliance controlled with solenoids at the locker. I used three 11# bottles with one as a spare. I complied with ABYC Standards for propane in all respects. Has worked well for me the past 8 years.

 

[PMF1984]

Get rid of that copper line.

 

[tiltrider1]

You have been offered the right info so I don’t need to comment on what to do. Propane is perfectly safe when done right and extremely dangerous when done wrong. Since you already know what you have is not correct I need not comment further. With propane it’s best to do things right.

 

[SoWhat]

Cu doesn't leak and isn't susceptible to ozone corrosion so I prefer it. Simply need a flaring tool. Rubber might be easier to work with but also easier to puncture. Either choice will work.
As long as you have gas fume detectors in locker and in bilge, long cu tubes shouldn't be an issue.

Part of spring commissioning should include a soapy water check of all gas fittings and check of all rubber hoses for ozone cracking.

 

[FF]

For folks that are not quite comfortable with propane , a very simple addition is a rubber propane rated hose slipped over the copper tubing.

Clamp it only at the user end and the tube will act as a well , any leak would be directed back into the propane locker where it would simply vent overboard.

A chat with the local hyd. folks might source a free discarded armored hose about an inch inside that will width stand WWIII with no effect.

 

[mvweebles]

I relocated my dual cylinder propane locker, though it's still on boat deck directly over stove and right next to BBQ. I considered one of the exotic materials - fiberglass or aluminum instead of steel tanks. What swayed me back to steel was reading stories of some folks having difficulties getting tanks not just filled, but recertified. Each time I swap a cylinder for a Blue Rhino (or better, Cynch as they deliver), I get a newish bottle. So aging bottles needing recertification is a non-issue. Sure, they don't fill the cylinder quite to 80% and cost is a bit higher, but hassle factor is mower.

BTW - if Cynch is available in your area, great home delivery service. For $20 they will exchange your empty 20 lb bottle. No hassles at HD or otherwise.

Peter

 

[Zoar]

I have had copper lines for 16 years. i have had propane for 15 years. No problems.

 

[mvweebles]

I've had copper lines since boat was built in 1970.

 

[Mark Myns]

Thank you

Thank you everyone for your advice. I guess I am going to be replacing my entire system. I have never been comfortable with this set up . I have three shut offs and the solenoid, I always check for leaks in the line before using and turn all of them off as soon as we are done using the stove. My boat is a 1986 so this is likely a very old set up. I might even explore switching to an electric stove if my generator can handle the load as it is only a 4K.

 

[C lectric]

I am not a propane specialist but as a boater I can see a few things that could be improved a LOT.
Copper has been used successfully for many years and will perform well for a long time IF it is secured properly to avoid vibration hardening.

--secure the copper tube to the deck. Glue [epoxy or Sika 291] plywood pads to the deck and secure the copper to the pads.
--rearrange the copper so it is behind the tank so it does not get hit by tank installation.
-- provide a solid support bracket for the regulator, the shut off solenoid as described above
--use a short but high quality flexible propane hose between the now anchored regulator and the tank.
--resecure the wiring OFF of the copper lines. THose copper lines should not be used as a wiring support. Make the Ply pads big enough to also support the wiring but separately.

There may be other things that the photos don't show but those problems should be dealt with as part of the changes.

Just a few suggestions.