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The drawing calls for 2” fill hose, the original was 1 1/2” I believe. Missed that when I approved the drawing, required some fiberglass work and fill hardware, so double check.....

I don’t have a picture, but just forward enough to clear the strips with 1 or 2” clearance.

Regarding the aft sling: I know from the picture, it’s right on the marker, but I learned the hard way that it’s safer to set it just forward of the lower teak trim piece. If the angle/length of the straps is JUST so, it’ll rip that stainless trim right out and leave a nice gouge in the hull...

Instead of urethane strips, why not use starboard strips and some boatlife adhesive? Rubber might eventually breakdown/compress.

Like CaptTom, I have two per side with the factory indentation and a really badly done patch job just aft of midship as well that I've always wondered about!

Hello All, I know some of you have undertaken this project in the past. Need to remove my Simpson Lawrence 700 windlass and the bow pulpit so the later can have some FRP repairs over the winter. I've loosened the 4 nuts from the studs holding the gearbox/motor, but the unit is not budging...

Not planning at 11 knots. Have to get up to about 14-15 for that to happen. For whatever reason it doesn't really track well at that speed, not to mention the fuel burn. BTW, all that speed (relatively speaking) came in handy today beating the thunderstorm back to port. Photographic evidence...

Like CaptTom we to have larger motors in our Prairie 36 (240 HP). Tend to run at 8-9 knots to keep fuel burn down, but @ 11-13, the Prairie feels like a freight train! No rolling, it just blasts through the waves with nary a bump Rick

I've had really good luck with this stuff and the company is great to deal with. http://www.soundproofcow.com/product/quiet-barrier-specialty-composite-wpsa/

I recently used Sherwin Williams treadplex for the floor boards in the ER, seems to work quite well. Was supposed to be semi-gloss, but somehow ended up being flat. But, it was $1 for the gallon because it was a mis-tint so who am I to complain! I might pick up a quart of semi for the bilge areas

well, in my case, the pinhole was about 1/3 of the way up the outboard side, so an added bottom wouldn't have helped. Seems like too much trouble anyway. But, I'm a little OCD, either do it perfect, or don't do it at all :)

Thought about that too, but a total of 200 gallon fuel capacity, even with the Prairie's miserly consumption is on the low side, might take a harder hit on resale value that what it costs to replace, especially if you're handy. If either of my rear tanks fail (fingers crossed they don't!), I...

Here's what I learned when replacing the tank back in Spring of 2012: The leak started right after we launched the boat in the spring of 2011. Fortunately, not enough went into the bilge to activate the bilge pump, but cleaning up the mess was no fun! I turned off the pump and closed all the...

We had a leak from the port forward tank. Much easier to replace as it did not require removing engines. The rear tanks are the ones I lose a bit of sleep over......

Great boat, have had ours for 15 years, and don't plan on parting with it anytime soon. Nothing too ugly, but on a 35 year old boat, lots of little bad things will always pop up. Fortunately, many parts are still available, and accessibility in general is excellent. A couple of water...

I had the same issue of ablative paint flaking of several years ago. Spoke to Interlux, issue was there were too many layers of paint. In my case, there is a coat of red and then blue top coat(s). Instructed not to paint until almost all the blue is gone. Seems to be working so far....

RDS aluminum in Florida is the original manufacturer of the tanks, they still have the drawings and can fabricate a new one for you. Replaced the forward port tank a couple of years ago for around $1k including shipping. Was able to get the tank in and out without pulling motors. Rick

Thanks Firefly, Next up is repainting the floor..... Rick

Yes, seeing all the problems is the only downside. I got these from Amazon, one roll did the whole ER. 360deal smd 5630 White Waterproof 300 LED Fleixbe Strip 12V DC http://www.amazon.com/360deal-5630-White-Waterproof-Fleixbe/dp/B00IJR1ZSM I would recommend buying automotive grade 3M double...

I added LEDs' to mine, pic attached is taken with a phone, no flash....

I replaced all of mine a bunch of years ago, grey industries rectangular ports. Outside ring is just for looks, removed first, then use utility knife to cut adhesive in gap between port and hole. Remove screws from inside and gently pry out port as described above. Clean well and re-bed with...

I'll give pureayre a try. I spoke to the manufacturer (they were very nice, btw) a while back. It's my understanding that it and fabreeze are very different products. The later masks smells, while the former is based around non-toxic enzymes that chemically bond with organic matter and slowly...

Thanks Capt Bill. Did you buy the marine or regular version?

I purchased a bilge buster a few years back after trying everything else, so I thought I'd share my experience, apologies in advance for the long post. The previous owner hadn't been thorough about dealing with small leaks in port lights, windows, etc (all now repaired), and that, in...