When it is time to cut the anchor chain

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marcs said:
Not to second guess you, I wasn't there, but another option that typically works for me in that sort of situation and I find easier is slipping a line under the obstruction with a boat hook / dinghy / swimming then lowering the anchor while the obstruction is held by the line. I find it a bit more controlled most of the time.
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You know.... I never thought of that until you mentioned it. LOL. :rolleyes: It makes perfect sense. Thanks for the tip :thumb:
 
I always keep three full sets of large-scale anchors and their rodes aboard.

Sometimes we use bow and stern anchors simultaneously.

I read 70% +/- of posts on this thread. Can't help but notice that mentions of diving to untangle/retrieve the fouled anchor is often mentioned. Seems some feel the locations have clear water, bright sunshine and that the anchor could be easily wiggled loose. Those three great conditions are unlikely to be in combination at fathoms underwater while working to free an anchor that just had hour or more yanking, backing-off and/or powering-over that has even more fully set the anchor into its "stuck" position.

Also... there is physical danger to swim down to hand-work the site of a stuck anchor. Rusty, sharp, jagged edged metals with current flowing could create injury.

Way I see it: "Cut Your Loss"... by simply cutting your snagged anchor loose... then, being uninjured and in good health - Go Buy a New Anchor with Rode!

But - Don't give up too quickly for trying hard as possible to free the snagged anchor while still aboard boat... it just might come loose.

Personal Record, in over six decades of boating: At least three times snagging and by working at retrieving it got the anchor loose. One time cut the rode and lost the anchor. That happened late 1960's in Block Island's big bay.
 
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Situation dependent for sure. I'd always imagined not trying to work the anchor free but just tying a line onto the other end. In our case, a rocna anchor, tying a line to the roll bar. Then surfacing with that line and wrapping it on the capstan and trying to pull it from the back. I suppose thats probably required since I cant actually lift my anchor by hand if I wanted to.

But it's another approach to think about if conditions allow diving.

Art said:
I always keep three full sets of large-scale anchors and their rodes aboard.

Sometimes we use bow and stern anchors simultaneously.

I read 70% +/- of posts on this thread. Can't help but notice that mentions of diving to untangle/retrieve the fouled anchor is often mentioned. Seems some feel the locations have clear water, bright sunshine and that the anchor could be easily wiggled loose. Those three great conditions are unlikely to be in combination at fathoms underwater while working to free an anchor that just had hour or more yanking, backing-off and/or powering-over that has even more fully set the anchor into its "stuck" position.

Also... there is physical danger to swim down to hand-work the site of a stuck anchor. Rusty, sharp, jagged edged metals with current flowing could create injury.

Way I see it: "Cut Your Loss"... by simply cutting your snagged anchor loose... then, being uninjured and in good health - Go Buy a New Anchor with Rode!

But - Don't give up too quickly for trying hard as possible to free the snagged anchor while still aboard boat... it just might come loose.

Personal Record, in over six decades of boating: At least three times snagging and by working at retrieving it got the anchor loose. One time cut the rode and lost the anchor. That happened late 1960's in Block Island's big bay.
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Thing with battery operated tools is to remember to keep them charged. Had one experience for a jobbatter onl ran briefly. Now check that they still work and make sure they’re charged as well as the spare batteries. Another thing on the list of reminders.
 
So, how do you restrain/hold the deployed chain while you are hacking with both hands through it?
 
I also have as others have mentioned a floating yellow poly line (100') coiled in the bottom of the chain locker and tied off to a pad eye and the end of the 330' of chain we carry. Even if the chain goes over without a buoy it shouldn't lay on the bottom and should be retrievable. It would be a absolutely last resort to dump the chain and anchor. I have had a number of circumstances that required a bunch of workarounds to get out of the fix we were in and to date have been really lucky.
Hollywood
 
luna said:
So, how do you restrain/hold the deployed chain while you are hacking with both hands through it?
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You familiar with hand held, arm powered hacksaw? There are several ways to steady nearly any piece/part being sawed. 1st thing to know... only one hand/arm is required to hold/efficiently-use that type of [no moving parts] hacksaw. Let your mind wander what you could to with your other hand... to steady the chain!
Vice grips, channel locks... good ol' strong fingers/free hand :thumb:
 
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For those that are prepared to cut the chain, question.
How much chain do you carry and how much on average is in the water, what would be left in the locker?
 
Art said:
I always keep three full sets of large-scale anchors and their rodes aboard.

Sometimes we use bow and stern anchors simultaneously.

I read 70% +/- of posts on this thread. Can't help but notice that mentions of diving to untangle/retrieve the fouled anchor is often mentioned. Seems some feel the locations have clear water, bright sunshine and that the anchor could be easily wiggled loose. Those three great conditions are unlikely to be in combination at fathoms underwater while working to free an anchor that just had hour or more yanking, backing-off and/or powering-over that has even more fully set the anchor into its "stuck" position.

Also... there is physical danger to swim down to hand-work the site of a stuck anchor. Rusty, sharp, jagged edged metals with current flowing could create injury.

Way I see it: "Cut Your Loss"... by simply cutting your snagged anchor loose... then, being uninjured and in good health - Go Buy a New Anchor with Rode!

But - Don't give up too quickly for trying hard as possible to free the snagged anchor while still aboard boat... it just might come loose.

Personal Record, in over six decades of boating: At least three times snagging and by working at retrieving it got the anchor loose. One time cut the rode and lost the anchor. That happened late 1960's in Block Island's big bay.
Click to expand...

Diving before cutting is definitely a viable option if there is a dive service nearby.

I was hooked under an old 6’ across anchor, which had 2” chain, in addition to which someone decades later had abandoned a 5,000 lb concrete mooring block which caused the shank of the anchor to angle upwards.

Not knowing any of this, I tried for an hour to get free.

Finally called in a dive service and it took several hours to release me - we were released earlier after an hour but the lift bag line sheared and dropped the old anchor chain back over my chain pinning me again.

I was so relieved afterwards. None of the guidebooks btw mentioned any issues there.

So for me in the PNW, and lower British Columbia, waiting for divers before cutting, unless it’s going to be a week plus then perhaps I would mark and drop the anchor and chain, letting them recover it, using my backup in the interim.
 
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Where I’m at a lot of anchorage’s are polluted with old fishing nets, cable and who knows what else. I heard all kinds of stories about how people would snag anchors and have to cut them loose, so I rigged mine up with a line attached to the heel with a float so I could trip the anchor free if it was snagged.
One morning I get up and can’t see the float. Turned out the boat had drifted over it and was under the swim grid. I got lucky and it didn’t snag my prop or rudder. The idea of a float is good except for this scenario.
Enter Trawler Forum.
I don’t have much luck with searches so I can’t give the person credit for the tip.
Attach a line to the heel of the anchor as you would normally. Let your chain out and when you’re at the point where you have more chain or rode out than the depth of the water at high tide and with extra length to reach your capstan or cleat,, zip tie the line to chain or rode. This way there is no danger of getting snagged in your prop or rudder and you also don’t have a float that can cause grief in a crowded anchorage.
I do have a battery powered grinder with a cut off wheel as back up.
 
I gotta ask......how many people have actually cut/abandoned their ground tackle? Under what circumstances? I suspect it's extremely rare, and even then most likely cause is windlass died and ground tackle was too heavy to hoist by hand.

That said, one of SF Bays best anchorages was adjacent to where Weebles was moored for 20 years. An ex-Naval Station, there was a submerged cable connected to Yerba Buena Island. Once or twice per year someone would hook it. Most figured out how to retrieve after an hour of head scratching but I suppose there are a few anchors there.

Another related story. My first Willard - a Willard 30 - had a plow. We anchored off the corner of Angel Island before headed to thr Delta next morning. A decent current came through and we dragged at least 75 feet, maybe more (God bless plow anchors - good riddance). When we hauled anchor, we had not one but two additional anchors that had been abandoned, including one fairly new and large Fortress that I gave to a friend. Was a PITA to have two anchors with rode attached while drifting.

I know it happens, but don't know anyone to whom it has actually happened. I keep an angle grinder because they are handy. But if I were to need to cut a chain rode, I'd probably tether a float and leave the whole thing - my 275 feet of chain is terminated in the anchor locker with 10-feet of 3/4" nylon 3-strand so a knife is the right tool. Half a rode is sort of useless anyway.

Peter

Peter
 
Not a lot of chain, only 20 feet and then 200' rope, but:

Many years ago we managed to wrap our C-Dory's rode on a submerged cottonwood tree in about 30 feet of water in one of Lake Powell's side canyons. Left the whole thing there tied to a float, and motored an hour or so on plane to the nearest marina where we hoped there was a diver. Luckily there was, and he was willing to hop into his boat and follow us right away. His fee was less than half what it would have cost to replace our gear, so it worked out well.

A year or two later were able to free an anchor stuck under a root in Jackson Lake, only 15 feet down and visible in clear water. Tied a short piece of chain into a loop around the rode, and onto some 1/4" nylon. Slid that down the rode to the anchor, fiddled around until it was up against the head of the anchor, and pulled it out from under the root with the 1/4"line.

Every so often since we started cruising the Inside Passage we've snagged on rocks or something, and each time were eventually able to free the anchor by pulling in various directions. Persistence was always required.
 
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RCook said:
Not a lot of chain, only 20 feet and then 200' rope, but:

Many years ago we managed to wrap our rode on a submerged cottonwood tree in about 30 feet of water in one of Lake Powell's side canyons. Left the whole thing there tied to a float, and motored an hour or so on plane to the nearest marina where we hoped there was a diver. Luckily there was, and he was willing to hop into his boat and follow us right away. His fee was less than half what it would have cost to replace our gear, so it worked out well.
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Water level in Lake Powell is down about 250-feet from it's peak. If timing were right, you could have just waited a few months and grabbed it from dry land I suppose.

I was raised in SLC Utah. Took a few family holidays to Lake Powell. Always thought about returning - makes a strong case for a trailerable pocket-trawler like a Rosborough or Acadia. What a blast!

Peter
Lake Powell Levels.jpg
 
We haven't been to Lake Powell in ~ 8 years. It must look really different now.

Some years before that, when it was near its previous lowest point (down ~ 140 feet) since filling, we had to back the boat trailer off the end of the launch ramp to float the boat. Truck was so far into the water that some came in through the driver's door. Glad it wasn't salt.
 
I'm not ditching the ground tackle unless theres immediate danger to the vessel.

There's a lot of variation in cost of gear here that probably plays a factor. This boat came with a 110kg stainless rocna and 400' of chain. I think the replacement cost like for like is probably a 16k$ package? I'll wait on the hook and hire divers or dive it myself before abandoning that.

My old boat had a small danforth. I'd cut that loose if it got stuck as I have two more sitting in my yard.

Brian
 
We rarely anchor in water deeper than I can freedive so when really stuck I’ll don a mask to do a quick inspection. Four times I’ve needed scuba to free us. I do have the experience and I carry the right gear for such tasks if needed.

I did a trip on another boat where we did have to release an anchor due to a broken windlass shear pin. We let the whole thing go and we recovered it on another boat using a grapnel hook and his buddy’s windlass.
 
Hydraulicjump said:
I suspect that experts have already weighed in on this but I could not find the collective wisdom. ...

We all start with the assumption that we will eventually free up the anchor (lots of tricks discussed on this site I imagine), but we all know of folks who had to give it up for safety reasons. So what tool(s)?
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We went with 200' chain and 200' rode with the Vulcan with the Helmsman Bruce switched over for the spare - it has 100' chain and 200 foot rode in the locker.

Stuck, Issue? Drop the remaining 200' of chain, cut the rode with a knife, go to backup, and buy a new primary at fisheries when you get back. You can use a bread knife, a serrated knife or even a fillet knife.

In the meantime, on the way back from Alaska just raft up with us in the inside passage for a comfortable anchorage.

Yours truly, Embark.
 
mvweebles said:
I gotta ask......how many people have actually cut/abandoned their ground tackle? Under what circumstances? I suspect it's extremely rare, and even then most likely cause is windlass died and ground tackle was too heavy to hoist by hand.

That said, one of SF Bays best anchorages was adjacent to where Weebles was moored for 20 years. An ex-Naval Station, there was a submerged cable connected to Yerba Buena Island. Once or twice per year someone would hook it. Most figured out how to retrieve after an hour of head scratching but I suppose there are a few anchors there.

Another related story. My first Willard - a Willard 30 - had a plow. We anchored off the corner of Angel Island before headed to thr Delta next morning. A decent current came through and we dragged at least 75 feet, maybe more (God bless plow anchors - good riddance). When we hauled anchor, we had not one but two additional anchors that had been abandoned, including one fairly new and large Fortress that I gave to a friend. Was a PITA to have two anchors with rode attached while drifting.

I know it happens, but don't know anyone to whom it has actually happened. I keep an angle grinder because they are handy. But if I were to need to cut a chain rode, I'd probably tether a float and leave the whole thing - my 275 feet of chain is terminated in the anchor locker with 10-feet of 3/4" nylon 3-strand so a knife is the right tool. Half a rode is sort of useless anyway.

Peter

Peter
Click to expand...

+1 Peter, while I have never dragged an anchor, I have anchored at Angel Island and Treasure Island. Years ago on my sailboat I anchored off Catalina Island for some snorkeling. Couldn't get the anchor up. I ran the line back to a winch and kept pulling in line as we bounced in the waves. It finally came up with Danforth flukes sieverly bent. So, when I bought Aquarius I unbolted the my all chain rode from inside the chain locker and added a sufficient length of line to take it well past the bow roller so I could attach a fender and cut the line. You never know. Thankfully I have not had to use it.
 
SoWhat said:
Portable angle grinder will cut through any chain used on recreational boat.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...4-0-Ah-Battery-and-Charger-PCL445K1/320526004
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Another Ryobi option that I have carried for 18 years back to sailing days, when it was on board to cut off my rigging if dismasted, is the Ryobi Right Angle Drill. I generally buy higher quality Bosche/Makita tools, but this Ryobi has held up well. It is in frequent use as a drill in my various projects and have used it to grind rebar with success. After 10 years I had to replace the LiOn battery which is pretty impressive longevity. So in summary a tool that has multible uses and can substitute for a drill on board. Frankly however for a stuck anchor I would buoy and drop the entire chain.
~A
 
I hate single use tools so I would not buy one just to cut the rode. But an angle grinder comes in handy for lots of other jobs, you can even get sanding and polishing heads for them. I've had two of them in my lifetime, I wore the first one out. That said I do have bolt cutters on board but I bought them when I built my first sailboat to make the standing rigging. That makes them about 40 years old now. Still not single use, I cut the cables with them when I redid my battery bank.
 
I have a 4" angle grinder for other reasons, and it is also my preferred emergency cutoff tool. If I were buying a new tool for emergency cutting of an anchor chain, I would probably favor an angle grinder. They aren't much more $$ than a good pair of bolt cutters or a sawsall. Plus they have a bunch of other uses for cutting, grinding, etc. And if you are already invested in a power tool battery system, it's a simple path to get a portable grinder.
 
Pulled up anchor chain...

Love TF - last evening we were leaving Gig Harbor and pulling the anchor - up came an old anchor chain with our anchor. Old chain was looped around the anchor and can't pull pull both out of water.

I immediately thought of this TF thread I had read that morning about how to get rid of pulled up junk - had a rope on it in two minutes, lowered the anchor and my daughter unleashed our anchor with the boathook. We were off and headed home.

You guys are great with your comments and advice - as a newbie big boater I've run into tons of useful information on TF...

Leaving Tacoma now and headed to Barkley Sound (southwestern Vancouver Island) for two weeks.
 
Hydraulicjump said:
My question is what tool would you keep on board for cutting the chain?
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I have cut off my chain twice with just a standard Demel tool and cutting wheel. Not because it was stuck b ut just because as section was getting too rusted
 
If you can't cut the chain fast (My comfort would be 15-30 seconds...max) then I like the let her fly and cut the line that is at the end of the chain......after you snap on a fender to a small loop already in the line.
 
mvweebles said:
I gotta ask......how many people have actually cut/abandoned their ground tackle? Under what circumstances?
Click to expand...

We got very close once a few years back

Weather had us seek shelter on the deep side of a coral atoll on an overcast day, so was hard to spot sand patches but satellite overlay and fish finder had me think it was clear.

Bit of a storm during the night had us swing around towards the reef then back out as it passed and in the morning we couldn't get our gear up and again, an overcast day so couldn't see much.

Thankfully another boat 1/2 a mile away, quickly dropped tender and sped across and asked them if they could stick their head in and direct.

Single screw, no thrusters but with a bit of patience they managed to get us unwrapped from under a coral bommie.

If they had not been there I would have been leaving a few grands worth of gear behind and 60nm out.

Chain was stretched, never went through the chain wheel right after that event.

If forced to anchor like that again I will try tying fenders to chain every 50ft or so to keep chain off bottom.

Screen-shot-2015-10-02-at-12.59.jpg
 
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The non heat treated chain (like BBB) cuts easily with a bolt cutter. M g43 chain (3/8 dia) I could not cut with a 30 inch bolt cutter. Using a dremel tool and an abrasive disk took a few minutes to part both sides of the link. Get the correct tool for the type of chain you are using. I have 400ft of chain with a spliced rope end that be cut with a knife if I have to drop a chain and anchor. Hope in is never required
 
Tip for bolt cutters, hold one handle against your chest, grab the other handle with two hands and pull toward your chest.
 
This seems like a easy problem to solve.

I have about 5' if line secured to the end of my all chain rode.

This line is attached inside the anchor locker.

If, and that is a small if, I need to cut my anchor away I simply let out the chain and cut the line with a knife.
 
Thought for fun I would revive this thread. Now THIS is cutting away your anchor. If you are ever on Tahiti, be sure to go by the Te Fare Iamanaha Museum. It is newly done and fantastic. Plan three hours and rent the headset tour. But before you go inside, check out the recovered anchor from Cook’s anchoring experience in 1773. Actually, they had to cut away three anchors from Adventure (Resolution did not lose any) and failed to recover any of them. All lost when wedged in the coral even though they were well outside of the reef. And all cut away because of a storm. Miraculously, and because Cook kept such detailed logs, in 1978 divers were able to recover one of the anchors still wedged in the coral. Amazing that they could recover this anchor 200 years later in 40 meters of water. Credit Cook’s record-keeping. And there is yet another great book about Cook: The Wide, Wide Sea by Hampton Sides. Good reading.




IMG_3433.jpeg
 
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