Recent content by Fleming

Another option if you don't need the survey for insurance or financing is to hire a surveyor to go through the boat and give you a "punch list" or item list of the big things to fix. Writing the report is hard work, and the part of the job most surveyors hate. You don't mention where you are...

Everyone on here is going to tell you that they are cored, just like everything you found on the internet says they are cored. But you seem inclined to believe your friend, so there is only one way you can remove speculation. Drill into the deck and check for yourself.

Steve, while I have the utmost respect for your knowledge and experience, my own experience tells me that it's not so definitive. I quite often see a good bonding connection through the transmission to the shaft. Certainly not always, but often enough that my personal view is "the shaft and prop...

What is it's purpose in your system? Is it being used for an SSB ground plane/counterpoise? Is it for lightning protection? Is your boat bonded? Do you have a hull anode tied to the bonding system?

I thought it looked familiar but couldn't place it. I agree. Maybe a punctured can from a locker.

You're fine in removing it as long as you verify that the positive side has overcurrent protection. Not needed to do both, and ABYC says overcurrent protection should be on the positive side. Some European boats like to switch the negative side, but North American convention is all fuses...

I'll offer another perspective. Condemning a boat based only on a moisture meter is a fools errand. I can measure moisture somewhere in most 30 year old cored boat stringers, particularly if it's a wet bilge. I can get high moisture readings somewhere on the deck of 95% of all cored decks that...

I would just empty the water tanks. For the fuel tanks make sure you have an additive to prevent microbe growth but one summer shouldn't be much of a concern for diesel. Far bigger concern is humidity in the cabin for which you'll want to try and keep some air flowing through the boat and keep...

Looks pretty far gone to me. And yes, it looks like possible stray current corrosion. I hope you got that problem sorted out before you replace anything.

I would use the extra zinc. No harm in over protecting your shaft, but you don't want to leave the brass (40% zinc, they're brass not bronze) prop unprotected. I don't think you need a hull anode nor do you need to bond a boat that was built unbonded as long as the through hulls are of proper...

There's no danger of overprotecting your shaft and prop with an extra anode.

No, that's wrong. As stated above the AC grounding conductor should be connected to the DC negative system in one place, the engine ground or a ground bus. The AC outlet should be grounded back to the AC Grounding bus. The through hull should be bonded to the rest of the through hulls and the DC...

Like some of the others said, this post is meaningless without the details. Sometimes the condition of the survey environment prevents finding problems. For example finding moisture in coring on a rainy day, or on a dew covered deck in the morning, or finding leaks on a dry day. Sometimes a...

To be ABYC compliant the overboard vent has to be at the bottom of the propane locker because the gas is heavier than air. The lid must be top opening and with a rubber seal. Cannot vent within 15 inches of another intake to the boat. Along with a solenoid valve, install a pressure gauge at the...

Aluminum anodes are fine for protecting aluminum. All anodes are alloys, and the aluminum ones are still less noble than the aluminum used to build boats and for marine equipment. I agree prop speed is the best thing to coat your prop with. It not only keeps the marine growth from fouling your...