Re: Linseed oil on teak

RE: Re: Linseed oil on teak

The Linseed oil is going on (about 1/3rd of the cap rail). It looks good but the surface is rather gummy. You don't want to sit on it. One part was 100% raw linseed oil (it's a bit darker) and the rest 80% wood preservative (Dalys Benite) and RL oil. Perhaps I'll rub it down (or up) w turpentine later and get rid of most of the stickyness and get a more satin top surface. I hope. I'm convinced this (or some variation) will be the future.

Yeah Marin .. my Chris just loves to sand the cap rail ...lucky me (and you).

Eric

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Monday 5th of July 2010 09:40:20 AM

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Monday 5th of July 2010 09:40:40 AM

Hiya,
I don't think it's been mentioned in the whole thread but I always understood that BOILED linseed oil should be used. Raw linseed oil never "sets up", hence the stickiness. Just sayin'...

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Monday 5th of July 2010 02:47:04 PM

RT Firefly wrote:
" I always understood that BOILED linseed oil should be used. Raw linseed oil never "sets up", hence the stickiness. Just sayin'..."

That's been my understanding also.......

-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Monday 5th of July 2010 03:43:38 PM

Not sure if it's boiled, un-boiled or both, but rags soaked in it can spontaneously combust. Be careful and either get rid of them immediately or keep in a metal can sealed up if you use it.

Good comments all,

Nobody can save me from myself. I was getting a little concerned .. I was going over the cliff and my friends were'nt even saying "I don't think I'd do that if I were you". However I knew that stuff except for the UV part. Was going to put an additive called "Paint Mildewcide" in the linseed oil but now that I'm using mostly Benite (a wood preservative) that has lots of poisons aboard to kill mildew fungus ect both in the wood and on it's surface. The wood is darker where I put the 100% LO and I'm using Raw LO so it dries much more slowly so it soaks into the wood better. Now that I've switched to 80/20 Benite and RLO the wood color is a bit more blond (I'm assuming it will darken w more coats) but more importantly it's almost not gummy at all. I'll probably get a rag soaked w somethin and attempt to knock down the oil on the surface that was coated w 100% LO. Raw LO was extensively used in the bilge of new wood boats. It's almost as thick as Log Cabin syrup. When I go on the rag Keith I'll try and not start fires. Today (at least this morning) it's raining a bit so I'll not get into any trouble at least till later. Thanks for savin me guys. I feel better.

Eric

Peter B wrote:

Hey Marin, speaking of covering the timber, how's this for an attack of coveritis....? I think it's a GB, but can't be sure, as not enough shows, and I've never seen it go out. Just a little overkill perhaps?

From what I can see of it, the hull doesn't look like a GB hull. Maybe an Alaskan (built by the same company in wood only)?

If the owners don't use the boat much I can understand the covers. If there's a lot of brightwork under there and the owners can afford or don't want to spend money on a boathouse, covers make a HUGE difference in the longevity of the finish.

There are some boats in our marina that have teak hand and cap rails. Rather than use separate covers for both, they have covers that go over the handrails and then extend down all the way to cover the caprails. Perhaps that''s what's on the boat in your photo.

Guys ,
I don't have varnished cap rails but being a timber boat I usually put a skirt around Tidahapah during the summer if I am not going anywhere.
Just lengths of shade cloth tied of at the rails and weighted at the bottom.
Attached a photo with a length of cloth removed.
The second photo shows the result of the summer sun in North Queensland. You can see where the paint is comming away near the port door

Benn

-- Edited by Tidahapah on Wednesday 7th of July 2010 04:09:33 PM

Update,

I found out the Benite does NOT have any preservatives in it at all. I then tried the mildewcide and it didn't mix w the Benite or the Linseed oil. I then got some Olympic Wood Preservative (w as much poison as is legal these days) and mixed it w RLO and turpentine.

I did this just before we left for Ketchikan. Two coats as I recall. It was quite gummy ..not dry. After almost a month one can now sit on it. It looks good but has a texture that I'll probably sand off w turpentine (wet sand). I may not need any more LO till next spring. And if the basic finnish survives till then Boiled LO and turp may be all that will be needed.

Now I can start getting the same base on all the rest of the teak. Also I'll need to cut out another electronics platform (plank) finish it the same way and install to see if it will take a SE Ak winter.

Eric