Boiled Batteries?

OK, I screwed up my maintainence schedule and let my 2 1/2 YO*lead acid*8d batteries run low on water.* Now they don't seem to be accepting a full charge from my xantrex truecharge 40.

Anything I can do to bring them back?

Thanks

You could try a desulphator. I've brought back dead batteries that way, but it takes some time.
http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/12-volt/

Any thoughts on the performance of the powered ones versus the ones that stay attached to the battery all of the time and use the battery energy to power the desulphator??

Do you reccomend the powered charger types or the chemical you add to the cells?

Doug

Well, I've never used the chemical additives, nor the 12V powered desulphators. However, the desulphator would probably work just the same whether powered by 110V or 12V, since I'm guessing the 110V model just steps down the voltage anyway. The 12V would use battery power, but at the dock you've probably got the charger on anyway. The good thing about using the 110V one is that when I shut off the shore power, it shuts off as well without me having to do anything, thus not running my 12V power down while cruising. I also use the 110V model in the garage on the truck occasionally.

Both Equalization and a pulse charger will take care of sulphation , but not the reversion and white crud that takes place when a batt is dried out.

Even ETDA will not help the batt.

Either learn to live with the reduced capacity , or change them out.

FF

Just an FYI.* The battery powered desulfators we are using only kick in when the battery voltage reaches 13.5 vdc and drops out when battery voltage drops to 13.2 vdc.* So we desulfate when underway or the genset is charging or we're tied to shore power and we're on float.* Seems to be working as our battery capacity has never been as high as it is now (battery bank is one year old).

Yep....I'd say give the equalization mode a try. While it may not bring them back to full capacity, it should help...I have been there...and it did help.

Do you guys remember the procedure using my xantrex?

Thanks

Gentlmen:

Does this thread also apply to AGMs?

Does this thread also apply to AGMs? confused

Unfortunatly AGM suffer the most from a high voltage overcharging .

Cook the water out and there scrap , NOW!

However for some rare folks that have the ability to actually charge at very high rates , the noisemaker run times can be very reduced.

Check out the great article on Pro boat builder , this month.

FF

Yea, if you cook what little water there is out of an AGM, it's history, because there's no way to replace it.

However, the pulse*desulphators work great on AGM's.

ANd it does require active participation on your part. You must check the specific gravity as they equalize and you must add water as needed. Just remember you should never add water while the batteries are under charge.

SeaHorse II wrote:

Gentlmen:

Does this thread also apply to AGMs?

Click to expand...

Nobody gave you a straight answer and that answer is NO!

AGM are NEVER Equalized , high V kills them.

If you boil them , you toss them, no second chance with greatly reduced output.

Just scrap.

We have a Heart Freedom 25 made prior to the Xantrex merger/takeover so I don't know how it compares to the units made under the Xantrex corporate umbrella. I'm pretty sure the equalization cycle has to be started and controlled from the remote panel--- I don't think it can be done at the inverter itself but I could be wrong. It is a timed process and if it runs its full time it takes about eight hours. Battery water MUST be topped off before the equalization process is started, and the battery(s) MUST be at a full charge already.

I have never found it necessary to add water during the equalization process or after it. But this could vary from boat to boat and battery type to battery type as well as the actual condition of the battery(s).

What is REALLY important is that you periodically check the temperature of the battery or batteries (by feel) during the equalization cycle. As the process continues the batteries can get quite warm to really hot. The marine electrical shop that installed our Freedom 25 said that if the batteries start getting really warm, stop the equalization cycle--- it's accomplished what it's supposed to accomplish even if it doesn't run the full cycle time.

FWIW the cycle initiation process on our Freedom 25 is to first disconnect any echo charger wires (the Freedom 25 can accommodate up to two echo chargers) and then with the charger on and the inverter off select "Setup" on the remote panel, then push "Setup" and "Charge" together and hold them down until the three battery condition lights (red, yellow, green) start to sequence rapidly or "flash" as the manual says. Stopping the equalization cycle early is just a matter of pushing the "Charge" button or shutting off the AC power to the inverter/charger and then turning it on again.

It's a good idea to check the water in the battery(s) after equalization to make sure the levels are still good. Also, don't forget to reconnect the echo charger wires if you have echo chargers.

Because equalization shoves a higher than normal voltage into the battery(s)--- up to 16 volts according to the Freedom 25 manual--- it's a good idea not to turn on any DC items on the boat during the cycle--- lights, instruments, electronics, pumps, etc.

It's also REALLY important to ventilate the area where the batteries are. Battery box covers should be removed or opened and the space ventilated so that the potentially explosive battery fumes will be rapidly dissipated. We open a floor hatch and put a small AC fan in the rear of the engine room blowing air to the front where the batteries are and out the engine room air intakes which on our boat are quite large. It's a good idea to check for battery fumes periodically during the equalization cycle to make sure they aren't building up.

Because equalization shoves a higher than normal voltage into the battery(s)--- up to 16 volts according to the Freedom 25 manual--- it's a good idea not to turn on any DC items on the boat during the cycle--- lights, instruments, electronics, pumps, etc

For boats in motion the better 4 stage alt volt regs monitor the bat set temperature AND monitor the vessels / vehicles (many RV use them) electrical demand.

If lights are operated the Equalization is stopped.
Todays electronics don't seem to mind 16v at all.

Pumps love the higher voltage , as does the bow thruster or windlass.

FF wrote:


Todays electronics don't seem to mind 16v at all. Pumps love the higher voltage , as does the bow thruster or windlass.

Click to expand...

I dunno..... When the inverter/charger manual, our marine electric shop who installed the unit, and our marine electronics shop all caution me NOT to turn on any 12vdc appliances or accessories while the equalization cycle is in progress, my inclination is to figure they all have really good reasons for telling me this. So I always pass this advice along in a discussion of battery equalization. If someone wants to risk finding out if 16 volts is okay for their radios, radar, fresh water pumps, etc, that's fine with me. But boating is expensive enough as it is without adding to the expense by challenging what the equipment manufacturer, installer, and other pros in the business have cautioned me about.

*


-- Edited by Marin at 14:57, 2008-06-15

"If someone wants to risk finding out if 16 volts is okay for their radios, radar, fresh water pumps, etc, that's fine with me."

Motors run far better on higher voltage , all motors, even the blender , happiest is usually the macerator which may have a fair service life if the voltage is kept high.

The modern electronic gadgets accept wide voltage swings , low being harmful.

Simplest is to check DA Book that comes with each toy and read the Mfg specs.

9 to 40V is not uncommon.for a modern nominal 12v toy.

FF

Shouldn't be a real problem at 16V. Anuything should be able to take 15V since it's not unheard of for alternator output to go that high (not optimal, just not unheard of). By the time you get to the breaker panel, thru the distribution wiring, and subtract any ground drop, it's not too unusual to lose some voltage by the time you're at the device.

The most likely victims of the extra voltage are light bulbs - they won't blow, but they will have their lifetimes reduced if they're on while equalizing. Especially true of halogen cabin lights, nav & anchor lights, anything that's a "bright" incadescent.

The most likely victims of the extra voltage are light bulbs - they won't blow, but they will have their lifetimes reduced.

Folks wanting the longest light bulb life would do well to get a Graingers catalog (or similar).

Any full list of bulbs will show their designed operating voltage.

Lights that will be ON with the boat under power are best selected from the 14V list.

Bulbs that probably will be off ,,,bunk/ head reading light and most interior lights chosen from the 12v list.

A nice touch on most flying buses is a "Bulb Locker" where pushed into foam are 3 or 4 of every bulb in the cockpit , and even some galley/cabin spares.

12x12 and 3 or 4 inches deep, most any plastic box could be fitted as a bulb locker,
Screw it on a bulkhead someplace and save the hassle of looking for it.

Good place for those class T fuses for the inverter too.

A small one in the glove box of my VW towd saved a ticket, a cop stop for a bad bulb was no hassle when I changed it out instantly.

FF