Carrying Dink On Roof.

Even when I was practicing engine off landings,I never felt the need for a chute.I figured,if it still has wings and some air speed,I can land it.Probably not gracefully as Sully.
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Speaking of dinghies.I have decided to build 11' Mission Bay to use as my dink.




Since I will be installing railing on my boat,I think I will do something like this to carry the dink and hang the canvas from.

FlyWright said:

You can't get out of most GA airplanes in flight due to the air forces on the swinging doors. You need removeable hinge pins to be able to free the door enough to get out.

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All the aerobatic planes that I've flown that had doors (some didn't) all had quick-release doors. Pull a handle, door comes off and falls free. Only did it once and it works as advertised.

ben2go said:

Speaking of dinghies.I have decided to build 11' Mission Bay to use as my dink.

Since I will be installing railing on my boat,I think I will do something like this to carry the dink and hang the canvas from.

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Looks like a good compromise. Depending upon how you fastened it, I could have it launched in under a minute during an emergency. Shouldn't be to big of a PITA launching under normal circumstances either.

CPseudonym said:

Looks like a good compromise. Depending upon how you fastened it, I could have it launched in under a minute during an emergency. Shouldn't be to big of a PITA launching under normal circumstances either.

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I will almost always have at least one other person aboard that could help me slide it into the water.At roughly 85 pounds,I don't see it being difficult to flip over on the rack and slide off the stern.The railing would be made from 1inch stainless steel.I'll have to figure out the wall thickness when I build it.I plan to do the bow rails,a few exterior grab bars, and hand holds/rails.I will back the mounts with plates and SS hardware to match.

Are you going to have a mast? If so you can still use the idea I put forth earlier on. Bring it in to the swim platform stern first, attach a line to the bow from the mast, haul it up to the top rack and it will be upside down (albeit with the bow forward). Launching would be the reverse and you'd have the mast/bow line as a safety to help control lowering it back in.

Bought plans for the Two Paw,
catspaw
but then went with a Sport Yak.

Just pull it up on the roof with the painter.

ben2go said:

Speaking of dinghies.I have decided to build 11' Mission Bay to use as my dink.

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That is a very nice and capable looking craft, Ben. Not sure dory is the right word to use but that's what it reminds me of a bit. Am I correct in assuming it's plywood?

If it is (or whatever kind of wood) something you might consider if you haven't already is "painting" all the wood components with CPES as. or before, you assemble the dinghy. The CPES will penetrate into the upper layers of wood cells and then cure, in effect sealing the wood against moisture intrusion. It's epoxy so you can't leave it exposed to UV or it will break down but I assume you'd be painting the boat. (A bright finish provides UV protection, too, which is why a lot of us on the GB forum use CPES on raw wood before applying whatever bright finish we use.).

The advantage of CPES over other epoxies is that it's real thin, like diesel fuel, so it soaks deeper into the wood than other epoxies.

CPES is NOT intended to hold things together. It's only purpose is to soak into and seal wood cells.

In any event, regardless of how you finish it, it appears to be a great design and will probably be a lot of fun to build.

ben2go said:

I will almost always have at least one other person aboard that could help me slide it into the water.At roughly 85 pounds,I don't see it being difficult to flip over on the rack and slide off the stern.The railing would be made from 1inch stainless steel.I'll have to figure out the wall thickness when I build it.I plan to do the bow rails,a few exterior grab bars, and hand holds/rails.I will back the mounts with plates and SS hardware to match.

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Drop me a PM Ben, either here or F/B if you run into a snag designing the rails and making the material choices. It's an area I might be able to assist you in.

I bought the plans for the 11' Champlain(it's essentially his new frame version of your stitch and glue Mission Bay). My boys and I are starting it in a couple weeks when I end my summer business hours, making a father/sons build out of it.

@Marin, I shot an email out to the designer of both these boats to verify whether or not CPES will cause any adverse unforeseeable affect on the way these boats are constructed. I like what you described.

CPES Warm Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer

Would this be the product you are speaking of?

Yes. I guess the "warm" refers to the ambient temperature it's forumulated for. I think the version we use is "cold."

We get ours directly from a re-seller in Seattle called Rot Doctor. He's in north Seattle so when we need a new supply we just drive over to his house and get it. But even though the cans have "Rot Doctor" labels on them the actual product is made by Smiths (and says so on the cans). The mix ratio is real simple, 1:1.

If nobody carries it in your area you can mail order it from Smiths, Rot Doctor, or some of the on-line marine catalogs like the Jamestown link you posted.

While we have a fiberglass GB it still has a lot of wood on it. The entire interior--- bulkheads, framing, etc.--- is wood as are the window frames. I learned very early on from the GB owners forum that CPES is a GB owner's best friend. So we use it on everything that we make out of wood or refinish to the point of taking it back to bare wood. It is of no value if you apply it to wood that already has a finish or coating on it, be it paint, primer, bright finish, oil, epoxy, etc. It is intended to be used only on raw wood.

twiisted71 said:

Are you going to have a mast? If so you can still use the idea I put forth earlier on. Bring it in to the swim platform stern first, attach a line to the bow from the mast, haul it up to the top rack and it will be upside down (albeit with the bow forward). Launching would be the reverse and you'd have the mast/bow line as a safety to help control lowering it back in.

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I will have a short collapsible mast roughly 36 inches.this could change when I am fitting out the boat.I will keep this in mind.

jeffnick said:

Bought plans for the Two Paw,
catspaw
but then went with a Sport Yak.

Just pull it up on the roof with the painter.

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Those are pretty neat little boats.I will look into them more.Never considered a nesting dinghy.

Marin said:

That is a very nice and capable looking craft, Ben. Not sure dory is the right word to use but that's what it reminds me of a bit. Am I correct in assuming it's plywood?I agree.The dink isn't really a dory in the strictest sense.Yes,they're built from standard exterior plywood.I am planning to use a quality hardwood plywood.It will be a little more difficult to make the bends,but I think it will make it without breaking.

If it is (or whatever kind of wood) something you might consider if you haven't already is "painting" all the wood components with CPES as. or before, you assemble the dinghy. The CPES will penetrate into the upper layers of wood cells and then cure, in effect sealing the wood against moisture intrusion. It's epoxy so you can't leave it exposed to UV or it will break down but I assume you'd be painting the boat. (A bright finish provides UV protection, too, which is why a lot of us on the GB forum use CPES on raw wood before applying whatever bright finish we use.).The entire boat will be epoxy coated.I may use CPES.The plan is to sheath the outer hull with one layer of 6oz fiberglass boat cloth.The plan is to paint the exterior with a hull coating like used on runabouts,the interior will be something like awl grip,the seats,and rails will be finished bright.When I build,I plan to seal the area under the seats to make air box flotation chambers in case a junk ski or b-ass boat tries to swamp us.It's happen to me in Jboats a few times.

The advantage of CPES over other epoxies is that it's real thin, like diesel fuel, so it soaks deeper into the wood than other epoxies.

CPES is NOT intended to hold things together. It's only purpose is to soak into and seal wood cells.

Very familiar with CPES.When I was working in my friends upholstery shop,we coated all wood with CPES before covering the wood.It's the only thing we could find that would get deep enough to protect the wood after we stapled the covers on.Have I mentioned lately that I hate pontoons.

In any event, regardless of how you finish it, it appears to be a great design and will probably be a lot of fun to build.Thanks.I think it will be a quick fun build.

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CPseudonym said:

Drop me a PM Ben, either here or F/B if you run into a snag designing the rails and making the material choices. It's an area I might be able to assist you in.Sure thing.

I bought the plans for the 11' Champlain(it's essentially his new frame version of your stitch and glue Mission Bay). My boys and I are starting it in a couple weeks when I end my summer business hours, making a father/sons build out of it.Same here.I have already started laying out the patterns on craft paper.It is best to print out the plans,or get them printed out,in a larger size.I use the hardwood floors in the house.I lay out my craft paper.Then tape it down with painters tape and start laying out the frames.My youngest(9) son is going to be working with me.My oldest(15) is to cool to hang out with dad.This boat may end up being my dinghy,maybe.

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Things will start coming together when I start building the big boat, Spira's Sitka.Then I will have a better grip on what I can and can't get away with.

to everyone.This is where experience pays off.I look forward to gain the experience and embarrassing opps moments.

Ben are you on the 4BT site under the same SN?

twiisted71 said:

Ben are you on the 4BT site under the same SN?

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I was on 4BT Swaps.I abandoned my truck project and my car project soon after.I think it's been a couple years since I visited there.

Oh, I thought post 67 might have been you.
Mercedes Sprinter Transplant - Page 3

twiisted71 said:

Oh, I thought post 67 might have been you.
Mercedes Sprinter Transplant - Page 3

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That was me.Saw a tractor with a similar set up and knew it could work on that engine too.