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Old 07-15-2012, 08:40 PM   #29
psneeld
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City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,148
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquabelle View Post
Woodsong: I'm very interested in your technique of cutting out the whole deck and replacing, rather than taking up the old teak, removing screws, cleaning off black mastic, sanding back, re-glassing sub-deck and then gluing new deck over: your way makes more sense ! Once cut out, how did you go about installing a new deck and what was your finished decking material? I'm needing to 're-do' the foredeck on my 52'-er.
I did the same for my flybridge soft spot. Area repaired was 7 feet by 3 1/2 feet.

The teak was slow going till I gave up and used a 1/2 inch drill with a 3/4 hole saw no mandrel to drill around the bungs. The teak then pulled up easy and the black stuff came up easy to..what didn't easily sanded. The screws then were easy to deal with...if the head was good, the 1/2 inch drill was used, if the screw head was filled with goop or repair goop...vice grips easily spun it out. The whole bridge deck with cutting out the seats only took a couple days once I discovered the hole saw method.

For the soft spot a circular saw was used to cut the top skin and down through the block core, pulled out all the teak blocks...because the roof beams were so close...I used 1/2 inch marine 7ply as the core with just with splotches of thickened epoxy to tack it down, epoxied the top skin back on and faired in the cuts. Whole top deck got a layer of 6oz cloth, 18 oz roving and topped with 6oz cloth. Paint and non-skid but ultimately will have a light grey outdoor carpet cover the whole area to hide the occasional imperfection, provide traction and a bit of insulation.

Top pic finished repair prior to painting, bottom pic exploratory surgery...
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