bow thruster issue

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sunvale

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
119
Location
USA
Turned my 88 IG into my slip last week and had to touch the thruster stick only to find that the thruster prop no longer works.
I checked the shear pin under the motor and found it intact. That leaves the prop shear pin which is under water. hauling her out on the hard is a bit pricy and not being sure makes it like pulling the handle on a slot machine.
I have been told that most of the time the plastic prop brakes up when that pin goes. Does anyone have knowledge with thrusters. In the marinas around Grand Haven, Michigan I am unable to find a dealer and or mechanic that is interested in working on this issue. I have been told by one that I should have in hand the replacement prop and shear pin as well as the anode for the unit before taking her out. I am looking for some helpful suggestions. :blush:
 
Out here you could get a diver to come and take a look for 20 bucks.
 
Does the motor run but you get no thrust?
 
thruster

Motor turns, the shear pin under the motor is OK but no movement. Been told that the props brake up as they get old. Now I like to find were to purchase replacement parts
 
If you tangle with something in the water such as a loose line or piece of wood or debris, this is what can happen. All five blades were instantly sheared off.

I got a new prop from Side Power the bow thruster manufacturer.
 

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There are several manufacturers you will have to contact the maker of your thruster, probably with the serial number of the unit. Mine is manufactured by Vetus.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out
Steve W.
 
Motor turns, the shear pin under the motor is OK but no movement. Been told that the props brake up as they get old. Now I like to find were to purchase replacement parts


As the other poster stated, have your diver find out what the real problem is. Stuff can grow in there and can clog it up. Divers deal with this all the time, it's part of the semi-annual maintenance.
 
Are you seeing any thrust/movement of water?

If you have not run the boat/thruster for a while, having a diver check the thruster and while down check/clean th zincs/through hulls and how the bottom paint is holding up. Twice a year I have a diver check/clean the zincs and heavier growth.
 
In my area, we need divers every three weeks in the summer, six weeks in the winter.

Having a diver check the thruster is the best plan if you can't or won't do it yourself. You might be able to feel the propeller from the water without actually diving.

I'm pretty sure my prop is bronze, not plastic. It's a Key Power unit.
 
Carey of this forum once changed his thruster zinc by taking his 36' lobsterboat to the boart ramp in our marina and pulling it up the dock until the forefoot was just clear of the concrete ramp. He was able to wade out, reach down, and change the zinc. So if a diver is not possible or practical if there is a boat ramp in your area that goes into calm water you coud do what Carey did and at least get an idea of what you're dealing with-- broken blades, sheared pin, etc.--- before you spend the money for a haulout.
 
Carey of this forum once changed his thruster zinc by taking his 36' lobsterboat to the boart ramp in our marina and pulling it up the dock until the forefoot was just clear of the concrete ramp. He was able to wade out, reach down, and change the zinc. So if a diver is not possible or practical if there is a boat ramp in your area that goes into calm water you coud do what Carey did and at least get an idea of what you're dealing with-- broken blades, sheared pin, etc.--- before you spend the money for a haulout.
Very good suggestion!:thumb: Bow thrusters are usually quite reachable when you run the bow up...
 
Just to make sure my description was clear (sometimes they aren't), when I said Carey pulled his boat up the dock until the forefoot was just clear of the concrete ramp, I meant in the water with a foot or so between the bottom of the forefoot and the submerged ramp. Hence the requirement for calm water so waves don't bounce the hull up and down against the concrete.
 
Just to make sure my description was clear (sometimes they aren't), when I said Carey pulled his boat up the dock until the forefoot was just clear of the concrete ramp, I meant in the water with a foot or so between the bottom of the forefoot and the submerged ramp. Hence the requirement for calm water so waves don't bounce the hull up and down against the concrete.

Believe it or not...unless pretty rough...I pull a lot of boats including the assistance towing boat right up on the concrete ramps and there is very little or no damage past scraped paint...a big cruiser should see almost nothing if there only for a short period.
 
What's the bottom shape on that boat?You could dry her out at low tide and inspect/make repairs.
 
I've only done this once, but would do it again if necessary. We have a launch ramp within the marina, with not more than a couple inches of wave action. I pulled my boat toward the ramp until I had ten or twelve inches of clearance at the forefoot. I then sat in the water in my 3mil wetsuit (just to keep it cozy), and was easily able to accomplish my task, which was just to change the propnut zinc on the thruster. I wouldn't hesitate using this procedure to change out the thruster prop as well. It helps if you have done the procedure on the hard, and know exactly how it goes together. If I didn't, I'd simple add a mask and snorkel to the process.
 

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