keel cooler coolant filtration

RickB said:

A more reasonable approach might be to change to a silicate-free coolant such as CAT's ELC extended life coolant. Such a choice would eliminate concerns about high silicate levels, problems with nitrates, and the added expense and complexity (read that as point of potential failure) that are associated with adding another component to the engine.

I know it is not much fun and doesn't provide anything in way of bragging rights or bling, but simply cleaning the cooling circuit, maintaining the pump, and using the proper coolant is about all you have to do to obtain long and trouble-free life from the jacket water cooling circuit of a recreational boat engine.

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I know and that's what I've done to my boat and powerstroke...but there is another "option"...train of thought...whatever you want to call it...

Lot's of people do it for reasons they feel comfortable with...and it's not all the "diesel bling" thing either.

"Have any of you read the discussions in the truck forums about these filters and why they use them?

Basically, dirt in the coolant clogs the passages inside the engine. In time this can create wear and hot spots in the engine, for example around the wet cylinders, with serious consequences.

To me, it seems that these filters could be a cheap insurance".

One of the biggest advantages of using a coolant filter is the element in many will add chemicals during the filters life.

The rust inhibitors , Supplementary ,cooling additives all have a limited service life and its easiest for the filter to take care of the replenishment.

Otherwise kits to measure the anti freeze chemicals and add what is required can be found at truck places for hands on folks.

FF

FF said:

"Have any of you read the discussions in the truck forums about these filters and why they use them?

Basically, dirt in the coolant clogs the passages inside the engine. In time this can create wear and hot spots in the engine, for example around the wet cylinders, with serious consequences.

To me, it seems that these filters could be a cheap insurance".

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So how does dirt enter a closed cooling system?

rwidman said:

So how does dirt enter a closed cooling system?

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When the truck driver sticks his finger in to check the level, of course.

Most engines , in boats cars or trucks are made from vastly different materials.

Cast iron block, copper or alluminum radiator , copper nickle heat exchanger, loads of different stuff.

The anti-freez is supposed to slow the electrical potential .

The sealants and rubber hoses also die internally and add to the coolant mix.

Add a tiny exhaust leak and you get a witches brew.

For best cooling 100% distilled water would be fine , but it would have no additives , so should be considered as a get home only.

FF

FF said:

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For best cooling 100% distilled water would be fine , but it would have no additives , so should be considered as a get home only.

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I use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Volvo ($27.00 per gallon) special coolant and I drain and flush the cooling system and replace with fresh coolant and distilled water as per the manufacturer's requirements.

Some folks have suggested buying Prestone or another well known coolant to save money. I figure using the approved coolant isn't expensive compared to boating in general or the repairs the wrong coolant might cause.

Some folks have suggested buying Prestone or another well known coolant to save money.

IT will, IF the engine holds the cylinder liners in a cast sleive , as on most older engines.

The new engines where the cylinder sleive is exposed to the coolant required the protection of a SCA to prevent cavitation (as the cylinder expands and contracts) from eating thru the cylinder.

Old Detroit ? , water or cheap antifreez is fine.

New Series 60 or similar OTR truck marinization, you better have the SCA.

FF

Silicates unless you have switched to OAT based coolant. Like Final charge, Dexcool, Global Extended, FleetGuard series...Cat ELC like RickB mentioned