Has anyone heard of Amarine made pumps

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captDJ

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Looking for a macerator pump and the above was half the price of the name brand?
I am returning my system to original, the PO removed the pump and capped the thru hull, looks pretty straight forward after I add a Y valve. Also, can I tee off of my fresh water tank or do I need another tank?
 
*********Also, can I tee off of my fresh water tank or do I need another tank?*****

If you are asking about drawing toilet flush water from your drinking water tanks , NO< NO>NO..

The toilets that can do this are especially designed to do so. Adapting an existing toilet may contaminate the drinking water.

To use the existing toilet you will likely need a separate tank.
 
You should PM Peggie Hall The Head Mistress about how to hook it up. She is the guru on all things head wise.
 
There are special relays and valves associated with using your fresh water to flush with. Simple conversion, just buy the right stuff. The valves and actuator only open when you flush and it keeps the possibility of backwash to your freshwater to 0.


As for Anmarine, I just bought the same pump. Looks exactly like the Jabsco pump and looks like pretty good quality. From what I have read, the Jabsco rebuild kit works on the Anmarine as well. Apparently a good quality Chinese knock-off (yes, those two terms are not normally used together).
 
*********Also, can I tee off of my fresh water tank or do I need another tank?*****

If you are asking about drawing toilet flush water from your drinking water tanks , NO< NO>NO..

The toilets that can do this are especially designed to do so. Adapting an existing toilet may contaminate the drinking water.

To use the existing toilet you will likely need a separate tank.



Exactly what I was asking, Thank You
 
You should PM Peggie Hall The Head Mistress about how to hook it up. She is the guru on all things head wise.



Yes, she is awesome, I’ll review he books again, that’s what got me started with this idea, don’t remember a section on how to convert but I was fixing a different issue when I last read.
 
Exactly what I was asking, Thank You

You CAN use your existing freshwater tank as long as you hook it u propery.

https://raritaneng.com/pdf_files/sea_era/L318seaerav0103.pdf

This is the installation instruction sheet for a Raritan Sea Era head that uses freshwater. I installed one of these in my boat, and also converted an old Jabsco to freshwater by buying the proper valves and installing it the same way.
On the Jabsco conversion I removed the sea water impeller and blocked off the ports on the motor.
 
There are special relays and valves associated with using your fresh water to flush with. Simple conversion, just buy the right stuff. The valves and actuator only open when you flush and it keeps the possibility of backwash to your freshwater to 0.


As for Anmarine, I just bought the same pump. Looks exactly like the Jabsco pump and looks like pretty good quality. From what I have read, the Jabsco rebuild kit works on the Anmarine as well. Apparently a good quality Chinese knock-off (yes, those two terms are not normally used together).



That’s what I was thinking but I didn’t want to get caught by the lure of a low price, Thank you
 
Going with a dedicated flush tank sounds like a better idea, are their tanks that I could mount inside the head and how much tankage would I need for say 10 flushes a day for 3 days?
 
Figure 2 gallons per flush equals 60 gallons total. What will happen if you run out of fresh? Switch to salt??
 
2 gallons per flush sounds far too high. With most toilets I'd figure more like 1/2 gallon, maybe 1 gallon.
 
Looking for a macerator pump and the above was half the price of the name brand?
I am returning my system to original, the PO removed the pump and capped the thru hull, looks pretty straight forward after I add a Y valve. Also, can I tee off of my fresh water tank or do I need another tank?
Is it worth the risk substituting a lookalike for the real thing?

The problem with counterfeit parts often lies in the material, not the dimensional quality. If the manufacturer substituted inferior resin (regrind) for the injection molds, you may not know until it fails.

So like anything, the risk comes down to likelihood and consequence of failure. Likelihood is hard to determine. Consequence is something you can determine.

If it leaks or cracks, are you okay with blackwater leaking where the pump is located?

If the impeller spins on the shaft, is it easy to get to to replace?

Etc...

If the answers are Yes, then the consequences are acceptable.

If the answers are no, then reconsider.

I feel that the counterfeit market is really aimed at people in emerging economies, where people are more accepting of inferior quality, as the reward of ownership of something otherwise unaffordable outweighs the risk.

For the record, I might consider the pump. When I replumbed my holding tank I made sure my macerator is fairly easy to get to, and it's leak path is direct to a bilge pocket. I also believe that Jabsco products are way overpriced for what they are, and rarely improve their product line. Just another revenue center for Xylem.
 
The other part of what Northern Spy is saying is to be able to determine when the cheaper part is actually as good as the expensive one (which happens sometimes or occasionally the cheap one is even better) and when the cheap one is worse.
 
I actually have a nearly new Jabsco unit sitting next to the Anmarine unit I picked up. They are hardly distinguishable from each other, and I would actually give the edge to Anmarine. I have used other Anmarine products in the past. Never an issue.







Is it worth the risk substituting a lookalike for the real thing?

The problem with counterfeit parts often lies in the material, not the dimensional quality. If the manufacturer substituted inferior resin (regrind) for the injection molds, you may not know until it fails.

So like anything, the risk comes down to likelihood and consequence of failure. Likelihood is hard to determine. Consequence is something you can determine.

If it leaks or cracks, are you okay with blackwater leaking where the pump is located?

If the impeller spins on the shaft, is it easy to get to to replace?

Etc...

If the answers are Yes, then the consequences are acceptable.

If the answers are no, then reconsider.

I feel that the counterfeit market is really aimed at people in emerging economies, where people are more accepting of inferior quality, as the reward of ownership of something otherwise unaffordable outweighs the risk.

For the record, I might consider the pump. When I replumbed my holding tank I made sure my macerator is fairly easy to get to, and it's leak path is direct to a bilge pocket. I also believe that Jabsco products are way overpriced for what they are, and rarely improve their product line. Just another revenue center for Xylem.
 
Not saying it's good or bad. But holding one in your hand is hardly an objective analysis.

Again, my concern would be the materials of construction.

One cannot easily determine what kind of plastic resin either is made from. You can't see the motor windings relative to each other. You can't determine the quality of the seal.

You might be able to compare the macerator impeller.

You should be able to detect the pig tail wire gauge and construction (metal and insulation).

There is a reason for the price difference. Is it because Jabsco has a high margin? Because they have to pay for sales and distribution? Because manufacturing costs are higher? Because materials are better quality?

And does the cost difference warrant the risk?

I won't knowingly use lookalike parts for stopping my car.

I won't use heating devices that are not UL, CSA, or at least ETL approved.

A little poo water in my bilge, sure maybe... Only because I understand the consequences.

I'm not really risk adverse. I prefer to understand them. I have seen many instances of failures because of utilizing non-OEM parts personally and in industry. Some of the industrial ones cost millions to save hundreds.

Caveat emptor.







I actually have a nearly new Jabsco unit sitting next to the Anmarine unit I picked up. They are hardly distinguishable from each other, and I would actually give the edge to Anmarine. I have used other Anmarine products in the past. Never an issue.
 
Just came across an interesting and genius plan in a comment section of an article. Takes a Y valve before the pump, a T and a ball valve and uses the drain of the sink. Set up the valves, fill the sink and flush with fresh water. Total isolation from potable system and about 40$ compared to 630$, any thoughts on gotcha’s with this plan?
 
It's more water efficient provided you wash your hands before flushing. Then your hand wash water gets re-used as flush water.
 

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