dripping packing
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C lectric
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http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/winter-projects-48435.html
Read the above thread. It is applicable to your question..
All the rust is likely caused by spray which is covered in that thread also. Cover the stuffing box to capture the spray and get what thee is left to drop into the bilge.
Should have added if questions arise then get back and can be more specific.
Good points from Lepke about dealing with the rust after controlling the spray from the stuffing box.
I will look into the Archoil for derusting myself.
Read the above thread. It is applicable to your question..
All the rust is likely caused by spray which is covered in that thread also. Cover the stuffing box to capture the spray and get what thee is left to drop into the bilge.
Should have added if questions arise then get back and can be more specific.
Good points from Lepke about dealing with the rust after controlling the spray from the stuffing box.
I will look into the Archoil for derusting myself.
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Lepke
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Try tightening the nuts, but not too much. Old style packing w/o grease can scar the shaft.
It may need new packing. It can be changed in the water.
A grease fitting on the water side of the packing will seal even better. The water pressure will push the grease up against the packing and water working thru the packing carries the (waterproof) grease and seals small drips and prevents packing wear on the shaft. Less pressure is needed on the packing.
If you want to get rid of the rust and prep the steel for paint, try Archoil AR5100. It dissolves rust without harming good metal. Leaves a surface ready for paint. Mixes 1:16 with water. Brush, spray or soak, then pump the mix over the side dry and paint.
It may need new packing. It can be changed in the water.
A grease fitting on the water side of the packing will seal even better. The water pressure will push the grease up against the packing and water working thru the packing carries the (waterproof) grease and seals small drips and prevents packing wear on the shaft. Less pressure is needed on the packing.
If you want to get rid of the rust and prep the steel for paint, try Archoil AR5100. It dissolves rust without harming good metal. Leaves a surface ready for paint. Mixes 1:16 with water. Brush, spray or soak, then pump the mix over the side dry and paint.
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C lectric
Guru
When the shaft is spinning that dripping turns into a spray which can travel a long way.
I suggest that most of the rusting you see in the photo is from that spray over the years.
Control that rusting after you deal with the stuffing box. Not only can the rust look unsightly but it can seriously damage parts and make disassembly of some items a destruction test of the parts and your determination.
I won't retype all what I said about the cover. If I was not clear then ask again.
I suggest that most of the rusting you see in the photo is from that spray over the years.
Control that rusting after you deal with the stuffing box. Not only can the rust look unsightly but it can seriously damage parts and make disassembly of some items a destruction test of the parts and your determination.
I won't retype all what I said about the cover. If I was not clear then ask again.
kapnd
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Assuming that all components are in good shape, there’s no reason that you can’t have a leak free packing gland.
Modern packing materials (like GFO) don’t have to drip, like the old flax packing did.
Some people don’t like having graphite in the packing, although Ivve never seen any damage from it.
Teflon impregnated packing installed with plenty of Teflon grease works very well too.
The “spray” is from water slinging off the shaft when rotating.
Modern packing materials (like GFO) don’t have to drip, like the old flax packing did.
Some people don’t like having graphite in the packing, although Ivve never seen any damage from it.
Teflon impregnated packing installed with plenty of Teflon grease works very well too.
The “spray” is from water slinging off the shaft when rotating.
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LeoKa
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Being single handed and on low budget, I need to learn a lot. I have never done this type maintenance. Are you aware of a guide, or a video I can watch, to see how is this done?
Thanks.
AKDoug
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Just do an Internet search on replacing the packing in the gland and you will have some great uTube video to refer to. It's as easy as it looks. I routinely repack mine when I replace the cutlass bearing, which requires dropping my rudder to pull the shaft. I am on the hard every winter in storage so it's dry while I do the job, which makes life much easier.
C lectric
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Leoka,
I broke down so you can find my new tome below about packing boxes. Hope it helps.
Looks like there are videos available also. Not surprised.
I also was serious about covering the packing box to stop that spray. It really will cut down on the rusting. Mine was showing the same problem years ago untill I thought of the cover. The rust is still there but I stopped it from getting worse.
I will try to remember to get and post a photo or two. Not pretty.
I broke down so you can find my new tome below about packing boxes. Hope it helps.
Looks like there are videos available also. Not surprised.
I also was serious about covering the packing box to stop that spray. It really will cut down on the rusting. Mine was showing the same problem years ago untill I thought of the cover. The rust is still there but I stopped it from getting worse.
I will try to remember to get and post a photo or two. Not pretty.
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LeoKa
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I've read it and it did help. Good info.
I also watched few videos. After reading this page, I came to the conclusion, that the job is not urgent:
https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-traditional-stuffing-box/
I tried a simple thing and it seems to be working. I tightened the bolts on the packing and this morning I did not see any water.
I understand that some dripping is good for lubrication and I can live with that. It is just the larger volume, which worries me, because I go on trips sometimes and leave the boat by itself. This water will be too much, if it is half a cup everyday. When I am away, I cannot vacuum it up to make it dry.
I was doing this for the last week and the bilge is dry now. I hope with this tightening, it will stay at very low level, so I can start cleaning it up and paint it.
Removing the rust will not be easy. The solution you recommended requires submerging the metal in it. Bilge can be filled up to a point, but not everywhere. We'll see how it works out. Thanks.
Irish Rambler
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Personally I'd go to the root cause of the problem and look for a modern solution. I've used the old type stuffing boxes for years and am familiar with all the problems.
I fitted a PSS stern gland and have never for a millisecond regretted it and thousands of miles later it was the best thing I ever did.
In your case with a steel boat the case is even stronger.
Fit a PSS, periodic checks are all that's necessary, clean the rust and repaint. Job done.
I fitted a PSS stern gland and have never for a millisecond regretted it and thousands of miles later it was the best thing I ever did.
In your case with a steel boat the case is even stronger.
Fit a PSS, periodic checks are all that's necessary, clean the rust and repaint. Job done.
FF
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A modern packing like Duramax is a bit more pri$y than the historic stuff , but can be installed in the water and no dripping is ever required.
You MUST use the right size!!!
www.fisheriessupply.com › duramax-marine-duramax-ultra-x
Duramax Marine Ultra X Compression Packing | Fisheries ...
Duramax Ultra-X is a unique high-performance, packing specifically engineered for heavy duty marine propulsion service. It features a unique and especially even distribution of encapsulated graphite and specialized lubricants into an expanded PTFE braided matrix. ... 1/4" Duramax Ultra ...
You MUST use the right size!!!
www.fisheriessupply.com › duramax-marine-duramax-ultra-x
Duramax Marine Ultra X Compression Packing | Fisheries ...
Duramax Ultra-X is a unique high-performance, packing specifically engineered for heavy duty marine propulsion service. It features a unique and especially even distribution of encapsulated graphite and specialized lubricants into an expanded PTFE braided matrix. ... 1/4" Duramax Ultra ...
Irish Rambler
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PSS is a type of seal using a stainless steel rotor on the propshaft and a rubber bellow fitted over the shaft log. When fitted a carbon ring on the face of the bellows mates with the s/steel rotor forming a watertight seal. I have fitted several on boat whilst in the water but you need to be a proficient DIY'er.
Why not try one of our TF brothers on here, Parks Masterson.
Give him first crack and he'll treat you right.
Alternatively, have a look online at www.pyiinc.com its a Canadian site but it shows the photo's of PSS seals. Then give Parks a call.
Why not try one of our TF brothers on here, Parks Masterson.
Give him first crack and he'll treat you right.
Alternatively, have a look online at www.pyiinc.com its a Canadian site but it shows the photo's of PSS seals. Then give Parks a call.
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caltexflanc
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First time looking at this thread. Appears that the boat has an AquaDrive. That's a different animal than a standard shaft system. It might make sense to contact them and send them the picture, and get their feedback. They also might well have a record of the installation on your boat.
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Slowmo
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PSS dripless work well but require replacement of the bellows every 6 years. Otherwise they can, and have, fail catastrophically. Unlike a packing gland, a dripless seal can sink a boat. While I have them, I'm not sure I'd change to them if I had the old packing glands. Luckily mine are brand new.
FF
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"PSS dripless work well but require replacement of the bellows every 6 years."
A flooding danger even the old flax packing did not have,
Looks like there would not be enough room for the PSS anyway.
The aqua drive is a great setup but does require to NOT be perfectly aligned (dont ask!) and does need lubrication with special grease every few years.
A flooding danger even the old flax packing did not have,
Looks like there would not be enough room for the PSS anyway.
The aqua drive is a great setup but does require to NOT be perfectly aligned (dont ask!) and does need lubrication with special grease every few years.
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LeoKa
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Good idea. Thank. I will get in touch with them.
By the way, the dripping stops, once I tighten the bolts. However, if I go out for a day or two, the dripping comes back and bolts need to be tighten again to stop the dripping.
Few drops will not be a problem, but when the dripping is enough to accumulate water and start the rust again, I am concerned.
Irish Rambler
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I must be doing something wrong !
My PSS seals have covered about 8,000 miles, are 15 years old and they didn't sink the boat, it must be the automatic bilge pump that's kept me afloat !
Why are so many people so bloody negative ?
EVERY mechanical thing you buy will fail ONE DAY but jeez guys c'mon even we'll drop dead one day but until then think positive, be positive and simply pay attention to preventive maintenance and your PSS seal will last as long as mine.
My PSS seals have covered about 8,000 miles, are 15 years old and they didn't sink the boat, it must be the automatic bilge pump that's kept me afloat !
Why are so many people so bloody negative ?
EVERY mechanical thing you buy will fail ONE DAY but jeez guys c'mon even we'll drop dead one day but until then think positive, be positive and simply pay attention to preventive maintenance and your PSS seal will last as long as mine.
C lectric
Guru
Yes, the dripping will come back. Constant tightening is not always a good idea. You could tighten enough to damage the shaft if the packing is old and hardened enough.
Have you covered the stuffing box as suggested?
Irish Rambler
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As a matter of interest have you either a grease nipple or Staufel cup to grease your stern gland ?
Overtightening will cause wear grooves on your shaft. My PO (a hire-boat company) did just that as a 'quick fix' and had worn the shaft, fortunately I was able to turn it end over end and refit it without having to buy a new shaft.
If you have a query on your Halyard Aquadrive contact the makers at technical@halyard.eu.com. They're based in the South West of England and ship world wide.
Overtightening will cause wear grooves on your shaft. My PO (a hire-boat company) did just that as a 'quick fix' and had worn the shaft, fortunately I was able to turn it end over end and refit it without having to buy a new shaft.
If you have a query on your Halyard Aquadrive contact the makers at technical@halyard.eu.com. They're based in the South West of England and ship world wide.
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LeoKa
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I have been collecting the water into a cut fender, as it was suggested earlier. There is no new rusting going on, since. The area is dry.
What rust you see on the photo, originates from a coolant hose rapture, while underway, which has flooded the bilge all the way. Scary story and I will not go there now.
I will take care of this, when time permits. I have more urgent projects, these days.
I will not tighten the bolts more. I will continue to remove the collected water, until I fix this.
Thanks.
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LeoKa
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The boat was out for work at a yard. I did not want to risk anything and I hired someone, who has done this before.
The filaments were very hard to remove. It must have been there for a decade, or more. We suspected about 5 rings, but it was hard to tell, from the pieces, which came out. Cleaning inside was difficult and it took several hours. I suspect the filament was baked on the shaft and the inside chamber.
After getting back to the water, there was still significant dripping, so I added another ring. There was no more thread to tight up the nuts. Right now, it is much less dripping, but it is still more than I want. I let it be as it is for now, but the available thread is down to 1/4 inch again. It is possible that one more ring needs to be added.
I am not sure.
I do not mind emptying out the bucket, which collects the water, but not everyday. I think that is too much. Weekly would be better.
The filaments were very hard to remove. It must have been there for a decade, or more. We suspected about 5 rings, but it was hard to tell, from the pieces, which came out. Cleaning inside was difficult and it took several hours. I suspect the filament was baked on the shaft and the inside chamber.
After getting back to the water, there was still significant dripping, so I added another ring. There was no more thread to tight up the nuts. Right now, it is much less dripping, but it is still more than I want. I let it be as it is for now, but the available thread is down to 1/4 inch again. It is possible that one more ring needs to be added.
I am not sure.
I do not mind emptying out the bucket, which collects the water, but not everyday. I think that is too much. Weekly would be better.
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I have stuffing boxes very similar to yours. I repacked mine, one last year and one this year. We used Duramax packing. Ours took 6 layers of packing. Duramax says not to tighten up the stuffing box until you run it 5 to 10 hours run time. So it leaks pretty bad until you tighten it up. Ours use 3/8” packing. I bought a 1 pound box and it did 6 layers on each side with just a bit left over.
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IF you have to repack it I would use Teflon impregnated steam packing available from an industrial suppliers.
I was tortured with dripping packing for years, I got fed up with the constant adjustment, the worry in case the bilge pump failed and water in the keel so I took the bull by the horns and fitted a PSS seal, if you are handy with your hands its possible to fit it while the boat is in the water.
I've cruised probably around 8/10 thousands miles with never a problem.
However its your boat and your choice, whatever you do enjoy your cruising.
I was tortured with dripping packing for years, I got fed up with the constant adjustment, the worry in case the bilge pump failed and water in the keel so I took the bull by the horns and fitted a PSS seal, if you are handy with your hands its possible to fit it while the boat is in the water.
I've cruised probably around 8/10 thousands miles with never a problem.
However its your boat and your choice, whatever you do enjoy your cruising.
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LeoKa
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I tightened up gradually. Even after I added the 6th ring. Now I am at the point thinking about adding the 7th ring.
What do you mean by ‘ each side ‘?
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Port stuffing box and starboard stuffing box.
PSS are dripless stuffing boxes. PSS is one brand of them. There are quite a few different ones out there.
rgano
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How long have you run the boat since relaunching? Have you put your hand on the stuffing box while underway. If too hot touch, you have squeezed it too tight. If leaking after a few hours of underway time, tighten it while underway until you get just a drop every few seconds. If that ends up heating it up too much, you may well have scoring issues which will need to be address out of the water. If you get to the point where the box it not too hot to hold your hand on and the dripping is slow, you may well find that at rest the stuffing box does not leak at all.
