MS 30 Pilot II - Nu owner - DIY Little things

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Olebird

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
413
Location
USA
Vessel Name
StarLite
Vessel Make
Mainship 30 Pilot II - 2003
New to me 2003 Pilot II needs some TLC and other things. Have a long list of items to check, improve, repair etc as we make this boat our own. Very interested in what other nu owners have done to confirm 15 yr old boats seaworthiness & improve on MS's already excellent build.


Has anyone added Rod Holders to the Pilots gunnels. Sure hate to clutter up the MS beautifully clean decks & gunnels but need to use holders for rods and other things?
;)
 

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Congrats on your new boat. I sure like the lines. I usually just start going through the boat with a flashlight and a pad of paper. Inspect every inch that you can get to and make notes as you go. Check every system for operation. After you have your list of issues and also your new want to dos, prioritize the list. I usually start with stopping the bleeding, like stopping leaks that are causing further damage. And safety issues are also right up there with stopping the bleeding. Then enjoy the work!
 
Thanks ComoDave,



How do you feel about polishing fuel currently in the tanks and cleaning tanks at the same time. Doubt tanks were kept full and no idea when fresh fuel was added. Ran good moving her (90 mi) have not yet pulled fuel filters.
 
My boat is 32 years old. We ran it home from Virginia to Michigan. We did a shakedown cruise in Virginia before we left to come home. Then changed fuel filters and they were clean so we have not done anything like polishing the fuel or cleaning the tanks. Right now the filters are 3 years old and still clean. What do you have for fuel filters? What micron elements do you have? I would run the boat and pull the filters. If they look clean, then I would not do anything except carry a good stock of spare elements aboard. If the filters are dirty then I would maybe think about polishing but still I think I would hold off and see what trend is going on with the filters, are they getting cleaner of dirtier the more you run the boat. If they are getting cleaner I would hold off and just change filters as needed. If they are trending dirtier then do the polishing. Do your tanks have cleanout ports? Diesel can sit for quite a while and still be ok. So overall I would get some time on the boat and then evaluate what to do next. Just polishing the fuel in the tanks without actually getting inside to clean out the tanks IMO isn’t worth it. And then if you go inside and clean out any crud that is on the bottom of the tank can open up pinholes and start a leak... So it is a bit of a crap shoot either way you go. So that is why I would wait and see. Whatever you do, good luck with your new baby and we need photos!
 
Thanks again ComoDave, basically concur with you on fuel cleaning issue. Recommendation came from boat yard hand who is helping with bottom work.

Will try to include at least one photo with each post to add to the discussion. This forum is a super source for ideas and advice.

Photo below is of family delivery crew. Chief Engineer (brother - 40 years with Cat) looking over the Big Yanmar before proceeding East from the "Wharf" to PNS. Deckhand & Second officer ( Son - MD - Captain of Catalina 350) trying to clean tired isinglass so we can see thru the rain & sleet (record cold along the coast) on our way to the yard.
 

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Get some Summer 210 spray wax for the eisenglass. Stuff is amazing. I get it on Amazon.
 
Here is the list of changes/mods/fixes I have made since buying the boat in Jun 2015:

Change timing belt
Remove, clean, and test intercooler
Examine air heater coils for integrity
Open the ends of seawater coolers to check for calcerious growth - run Barnacle Barrier through system
Add house battery bank & rewire power panel as required using ACR/fuses
Replace Micro-Commander electronic shifter with Morse push-pull
Replace 12-volt generator exhaust fan with AC fan and time delay switch
Install Sounddown insulation on engine compartment hatch
Install sound absorbing material in the air scoops under gunwale
Install sound absorbing material on the inner sides on the fuel tanks
Install sound absorbing tiles on shaft tunnel
Replace Faria tachometer with a Floscan incorporating a digital tach
Carry generator pump belt spare
Carry spare gen belt
Carry spare main belt
Carry spare main impeller
Carry spare coolant
Carry spare engine/gen oil
Check fire extinguisher dates and add Halitrol extinguisher
Service the engine compartment automatic fire extinguisher bottle
Mount cabin fire extinguisher
Replace above waterline plastic thru-hulls
Add wireless searchlight/marine beam to anchor pulpit
Add AIS receive capability
Obtain spare 7 psi cap radiator for generator
Obtain spare 15 psi radiator cap for Yanmar
Replace broken Seafire auto fire shutdown control/indicator
Fix gasket on engine room door under steps
Replace faulty TV antenna
Replace inadequate 7 KBtu AC with 10 KBtu Dometic DTU
Carry manual bilge pump for USCG equipment requirement
Replace pyro flares with USCG approved electronic option
Change all lights to LED
Place USCG required Discharge regs /trash/oil pollution placards
Install sight gauge between fuel tanks
Arrange Furuno plotter hookup for PC
Replace DC power panel lights w/LEDs
Install Seaward engine alarm panel and alarm silence switch at helm
Replace drain sump pump with Whale diaphragm pump
Replace faulty fan in pilot house
Swap wiper and hardtop overhead lights switch locations on console
Change windshield wiper control arm tips to J-style
Add windshield washer bottle and pump
Change anchor to Supermax 15 and add 80 feet chain
Add second Racor & build switching manifold
Make up braided anchor snubbers from twisted rope
Replace and carry spare bow thruster zinc
Stow Fortress FX37 and 200 feet of rode as spare emerg/storm anchor
Install remote reading fuel vacuum gauge at helm
Make up SENA motorcylce intercom into earmuffs
Scan and repitch prop from 22X24 to 22X22 to make full WOT RPM
Replace gaskets in leaking port lights
Add Marino remote operated spotlight in place of combo red/green nav light
Install LED nav lights on either side of the anchor pulpit
Splice in SS rings on both ends of fenders
Install Fogmate auto fog horn signal
Add swing-out bracket for TV
Connect both fuel tank senders to Faria cluster gauge via selector switch
Install Micro Air Easy Start on both air conditioners to allow running both on generator
Soften up the very hard inner spring mattress with new memory foam mattress
Add the ARP11 target tracking circuit card to the chart plotter/radar
Add AD-10 cable from PG500 compass to Furuno display for ARP upgrade
Add main engine fuel return to the stbd tank via selector valve
Replace all coolant hoses using silicone hose wherever possible
 
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OleBird;

I have seen rod holders installed in the 30' pilot, easy enough to do. Do you have previous maintenance records if so this can be a good first step. Thankfully I found the records going back to '07 so this was my starting point.

My list is quite long and has included items such as 1000 hr maintenance, replacement hoses. We are currently repairing swim platform and replacing VHF wire and resealing the front center window.
 
Wow .... quite a list. Thanks guys. Think I will put together a "compliance matrix" for the items mentioned above -- some of which have been complied with by me or PO recently.
LollyG, the maintenance log (shoe box full of receipts) contains items since day one, but doubt it's 100% complete. Am trying to get it better organized and pin point any obviously missing actions.
Also wonder how many folks use regular "oil analysis" and oil additives like "Cam Guard". Seems like cheap insurance against surprises? (used on most John Deere (Yanmars) here on the funny farm)!

Did learn on maiden delivery trip - this boat needs a few more hand holds all round. Kissed the deck a couple of times when winds kicked up 4-5ft chop on MS Sound. Need to add "seat belt" sign !!!!


Some video of trip - looks calm - it wasn't!!



 
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I added a rod holder to my MS 34HT and like the clean look. I dont use it for fishing but have made an adapter for use as a flag holder and a rod mount table / grill platform.
Before you " go at" the painted hull because to check recommended Do's and Don'ts for Awlgrip / Awlcraft.
My Bacchus website Projects section has a few projects completed. I'd check whether MS used diode isolators in the charging system and if so replace it / them with one of many better alternatives.
 
Pole Holders and Outriggers on a 30 P II

This photo taken the day we sea trialed the boat shows two pole holders in the transom and two farther forward on both sides. There are also two collapsible outriggers - all Taco gear. The forward holders allow rain and spray to end up in the bilge.
 

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Super, just what I was looking for regards rod holders! Like Bacchus, doubt I'll use them for fishing, more likely a place to park a shot glass of "sandpaper Gin" , or fish and chips!! With these "fake knees" might try to use them as removable boarding assist and possibly a plug in cleat to hold fenders for the aft quarter panel.

https://tinyurl.com/wu5bkum

or something similar!


Photo:


Starlite and crew making tracks on the Gulf Coast ICW - record cold (31F) for the day! A few minutes later we were turning 3400 rpm and making 24 kts across Big Lagoon! 90% open throttle. :) Ole girl will get up and trot!!
 

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Crossing Big Lagoon headed east, you are heading my way. Where bound?

I forgot to mention in my list adding the "drop fin" kit to the Bennett trim tabs to make the tabs more effective since they are a bit small for the boat.
 
Rich,
We moved the boat to Pelicans Perch Marina on Bayou Chico in Pensacola - at least for the next six months or so. Eventually I plan to bring it up to Guntersville Lake for a little river cruising this summer after some work in the yard.

Marina put us in a slip next to another Pilot 30 - haven't met the owner yet. Beautiful boat!

I read about the trim tab mod - certainly will be looking into that. Also want to look at a rudder mod. No question its an OEM design issue. Looking into having a custom, modified "Thistle" rudder cast at a foundry up in Talledega to see if it will make a difference. Customized to work better with the tunnel.


Photo:
Last bottom job got carried way with the paint. (who paints hydraulic cylinders) Hope I can clean up the trim tabs. Rudder, IMHO is tiny and should have been cut to mimic the tunnel - instead of just whacking it off in a straight line to prevent hitting the hull when hard over. Looks like an after thought!!:banghead:
 

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Congratulations on the new to you boat.


I installed two rodholders in gunnel and attached four to Alum tower. No big deal, take your timelaying it out. I'm assuming 315 HP Yanmar for 2003? If you not making 18- 18.5 knots at 3200RPM's Change the 2-3 micron filter on engine. I added the drop fin on trim tabsfor help with nose down. Added brass tee at AC strainer for easier winterize. Modifiedmain engine strainer cap for same reason.


If you don’t haverecords I’d have all the coolers pulled and cleaned.
Only problem is access to everything its tight but I guess that's most boats?







 
Here are a few pics of our multi use rod holder.
 

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Bacchus, you can raft up with me ... and few of my friends - ANYTIME! :thumb:

Photo:
Sailgating in Knoxville, upper end of our stomping grounds. My burgee is in there somewhere - but it's burnt orange and Navy!
 

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Olebird

NICE RAFT UP!! :thumb::thumb:

Here's our local gang - we do it frequently just floating mid-lake.
You are welcome to join in anytime.
It gets interesting if / when we need to maneuver the raft to reposition.
 

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Olebird

NICE RAFT UP!! :thumb::thumb:

Here's our local gang - we do it frequently just floating mid-lake.
You are welcome to join in anytime.
It gets interesting if / when we need to maneuver the raft to reposition.

We used to do that years ago hereabouts out at the barrier island, but sportfisherman-like wakes from tourists renting pontoon boats and jet skis and our own local idiots finally made it simply to hazardous. Too many times several of us were desperately trying to push the boats apart as our rails (teak back in those days) heavily heaved up and down inches apart.
 
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Olebird

NICE RAFT UP!! :thumb::thumb:

Here's our local gang - we do it frequently just floating mid-lake.
You are welcome to join in anytime.
It gets interesting if / when we need to maneuver the raft to reposition.

What's the depth there, Seneca is pretty deep!
 
What's the depth there, Seneca is pretty deep!
In that area not far from the "Navy Research Barge" about 500 ft +/-
Deepest is about 625 ft a little farther south.
A little trivia many don't realize is that the bottom of Seneca is below sea level!
 
Perfectly acceptable to paint Bennett Actuators, including the shaft out the bottom, won't hurt them a bit. Looks like that actuator may be a standard full stroke (2.5") vs the OEM specified (1.75") which should provide better performance.

:socool:

I read about the trim tab mod - certainly will be looking into that.
Photo:
Last bottom job got carried way with the paint. (who paints hydraulic cylinders) Hope I can clean up the trim tabs. :banghead:
 
Thanks Steve, I've had Bennett trim tabs on other boats - just out of habit I have never painted them. (Got busted once for painting things that shouldn't be - when a very young engineer - what do EE's know about paint).

Never had any kind of failure - so I've never had to dig into how they work. From your comment I take it there is no seal on the lower shaft that could be damaged by a layer or two of paint.


I have no reason to think these are not OEM originals. I read the post elsewhere regarding the longer stroke versions - will put the tape to them to see what stroke they actually have.
 
You are correct, the seal is on the piston (5) not the shaft, and there is no seal at the bottom, the bottom half of the actuator below the piston actually fills with water and houses the return spring.

Mainship specified reduced stroke actuators (1.75" instead of 2.5" travel) on most models, this was done by making the stop sleeve (8) longer.


:socool:
 

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hi,

we have about 6 rod holders on our 34 pilot. we use for a) barbecue grill b) loop fenders over c) loop "temp" line when docking.
 
We will be crossing your path this weekend....moving my new boat from Destin to Orange Beach. Congrats on the new boat. As you see in my Signature, I owned a 2004 Pilot...great boat!! Super simple and super efficient and easy to maintain. Have fun!!!
 
i hit enter too fast. we have made up "billaying pins" out of pvc pipe with end caps. these fit in the rod holders and allow tying lines around.
 
Good morning. John you better put on your long Johns, a little nippy out this weekend. Have a safe trip and good luck with your new boat. Starlite is on the hard in Pensacola, having her bottom attended to. Will likely not get her back in the water until after the first of the year. John thanks for the note on rod holders. Was wondering if the standard fixture can be used to provide more hand holds - which the MS Pilot II is short of in its native configuration.
Steve, thanks for the Bennett documentation - learned something - always a good day when that happens.
 
On my boat I use down riggers commonly, so mounting the plate for the down rigger gives me a mounting point for rod holders as well. Also mounts the Brutus line hauler for shrimping, so it's a three in one mounting point with no hole through the cap rail. The down rigger holds the rods, and when removed a rod holder (heavy duty, halibut strength) mounts into the pivoting mount which mounts the rod high enough not to interfere with the cap rail (Scotty down rigger and rod holder).
 
I also have a uhmw plastic fish cleaning table that drops onto my stern mount for the down riggers, and water wash down next to it. The small stern of the double ender had me mount a stainless steel plate off the cap rail, drilled and tapped for the down rigger mounts
 

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