Anchor stowage in hawse pipe or on pulpit?

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ben2go

Guru
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
2,885
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Shipoopi
Vessel Make
derilic sailboat
My boat has a nearly plumb stem with very little flare in the bow. Most dutch barges carry their anchor in a hawse pipe. Maybe a different term. Because the bow is plumb and there is no flare, the anchor can hit the bow and cause damage when being lowered from a pulpit. Any ideas or suggestions?


Here's a steel boat very similar to mine and it shows how the anchor is usually carried. The recommended anchor for my boat is 125lbs so it's not like it's a light weight. Also my boat is fiberglass laminated wood.


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Maybe have a stainless steel cover for the bow made to stop the anchor from hitting the hull. It won’t be cheap through. I have seen them on some boats where the anchor hits just below the hawse pipe ot bow pulpit. But yours sounds like it would need one almost down to the waterline. Do you have a photo of the area?
 
Hardwood strips attached to the hull. Ironbark, oak ect ect.
You could weld or bolt a removable plate of mild steel galvanized or painted .. or both. Remove it now and then to spruce it up or repair it. Could even use a pice of plywood.
 
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How concerned are you about looks? Or are you just looking for functionality? If looks are not important then how about some commercial rub rail mounted vertically? There are some pretty substantial rubber strips out there. Hamilton Marine has a good selection.
 
WE carry the anchors in a set of hawse pipes , but because bottoms vary the setup uses P&S pipes to have ready 2 different style anchors.

Mostly in canals a big heavy mud hook might be OK.
 
Thanks for the ideas. I don't have any pics of the boat. I am having to plan my anchor arrangement so I can build in any needed structure to hold them in place. My boat was designed to be a marina queen or dock dancer.
 
Hmm... If you could find a way to build it strong enough, what about some kind of extendable pulpit? Keep it tucked in tight normally, but move it out a foot or 2 for extra hull clearance during deployment and retrieval?
 
Hmm... If you could find a way to build it strong enough, what about some kind of extendable pulpit? Keep it tucked in tight normally, but move it out a foot or 2 for extra hull clearance during deployment and retrieval?
Doable but would be more maintenance for the sliding pulpit. I'll have hydraulics onboard so could be done from the comfort of the helm.
 
I'd go with a piece of SS sheet metal screwed to the bow below the anchor (s). If yours is like the picture there's not much bend right there. Should be able to hand bend the metal for a close fit. Maybe 4 screws and seal the screw holes good.

When it gets dinged just replace it.
 
Have a stubby bow with a SS plate.
 

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A delight with a haws pipe anchor storage is any mud stuck will dry out and fall off into the water.
 
I'd go with a piece of SS sheet metal screwed to the bow below the anchor (s). If yours is like the picture there's not much bend right there. Should be able to hand bend the metal for a close fit. Maybe 4 screws and seal the screw holes good.

When it gets dinged just replace it.


That's probably the way I'll go.


Have a stubby bow with a SS plate.


That is a nice idea. My boat has an outer stem and would be hard to get precise bends around it.


A delight with a haws pipe anchor storage is any mud stuck will dry out and fall off into the water.


I hadn't thought of that. I had planned to have water jets there to help wash away the muck.
 
Several different options for anchor strike plates:

My boat came with a PVC strike plate that was formed to the bow and held in place with 1/2" carriage bolts. The molding job wasn't very good and PVC isn't long term U/V stable. It had several cracks in it after 12 years.

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A much nicer replacement was made during my refit. Sean put a molding film (sort of like Saran wrap) over the area. Then he laid up a layer of fiberglass with bi-axial cloth. He add a couple more layers and then removed it from the bow. In his shop, he added additional layers to about a 1/4" thick, shaped, faired, and painted it. It's held in place on the bow with a dozen #12 screws and would be easily removable if it needed to be faired and repainted. The other option I briefly considered was having it sprayed with Linex (truck bed spray liner, available in a number of colors).

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Ted
 
Several different options for anchor strike plates:

My boat came with a PVC strike plate that was formed to the bow and held in place with 1/2" carriage bolts. The molding job wasn't very good and PVC isn't long term U/V stable. It had several cracks in it after 12 years.

View attachment 97345

A much nicer replacement was made during my refit. Sean put a molding film (sort of like Saran wrap) over the area. Then he laid up a layer of fiberglass with bi-axial cloth. He add a couple more layers and then removed it from the bow. In his shop, he added additional layers to about a 1/4" thick, shaped, faired, and painted it. It's held in place on the bow with a dozen #12 screws and would be easily removable if it needed to be faired and repainted. The other option I briefly considered was having it sprayed with Linex (truck bed spray liner, available in a number of colors).

View attachment 97346

View attachment 97347

Ted



That is a nice solution.
 
"I hadn't thought of that. I had planned to have water jets there to help wash away the muck."

They should be useful if you ever use chain.
 
@O C Diver, that pretty good solution. I may do that since I'll be glassing the hull anyway. Thanks for posting up.
 
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I have a stainless steel guard on mine.
 

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