Led

I am looking to replace some 12vdc 15watt compact bulbs that have E26 (medium)bases with LED lights.
I would like to increase the output from the 15 watts to whatever I can get but still keep the compact bulb size to fit my existing fixtures.
I see some on Amazon but the ones that seem to be the right match don't give the dimensions of the bulbs and I can’t be certain looking at their pictures.
My existing bulbs have no neck area, just bulb. They look about the size of a red clown nose and only 2 1/2 inches from base to end of bulb.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks

Have a look here:

https://store.marinebeam.com/

https://www.superbrightleds.com/

Here's a source I have used in the past.

I have some adapters that go from an E26 to the standard G4 LED replacement emitters. My recollection is that they screwed flush with the fixture. I nolonger use them, and need to get rid of them (raise the boat's waterline). How many do you need (I'll give them to you if they will work for you)?

I'm 3 days away from the boat, so will have to check how many I have when I get back.

Ted

jleonard & Menzies, for the links. I will take a look.
Ted is this what you are describing? (see picture)

West Marine has some.

here is the link

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/dr-l...style-replacement-bulb--14161970?recordNum=84

Alfa Mike

menzies said:

Have a look here:

https://store.marinebeam.com/

Click to expand...

Second this. Replaced all our interior and anchor light with their products. Excellent quality, fair price etc.

BonesD said:

jleonard & Menzies, for the links. I will take a look.
Ted is this what you are describing? (see picture)

Click to expand...

Yes, that looks like what I have. Back in FL now, will see what I have tomorrow.

Ted

I found some at Fisheries Supply here in Seattle. I bought a new base and a LED flood that really brightens the pilot house up
I think one on opposite corners of the salon with weaker bulbs in the opposite corners will be a good balance. Thanks for your offer though.

Looking at retrofitting with LEDs as well. My concern is I see a lot of them on Superbright and Marinebeam appear to not be U/L CE compliant. I guess it's fair to say that the current bulbs in there probably aren't as well. Just don't want to burn the thing down because of a light bulb!!

What do you all think?

I put LEDs in from I think superbrite. Went with highest lumens that would fit. Maybe doubled light output. Big benefit is voltage loss.

stiggy said:

Looking at retrofitting with LEDs as well. My concern is I see a lot of them on Superbright and Marinebeam appear to not be U/L CE compliant. I guess it's fair to say that the current bulbs in there probably aren't as well. Just don't want to burn the thing down because of a light bulb!!

What do you all think?

Click to expand...

Give Marinebeam a call if you have any qualms. They are very helpful. And no, their bulbs will not burn your boat down. They even explain why on their web site.

stiggy said:

Looking at retrofitting with LEDs as well. My concern is I see a lot of them on Superbright and Marinebeam appear to not be U/L CE compliant. I guess it's fair to say that the current bulbs in there probably aren't as well. Just don't want to burn the thing down because of a light bulb!!

What do you all think?

Click to expand...

You raise a good question that I have commented on before. Incandescent bulbs draw about 7 times the power of LEDs for the same light output. The circuits potentially have way to much amperage available. Read books on wiring, fuses and circuit breakers, and they all tell you the breaker or fuse protects the wiring, not the item using the power. This works under the assumption that the item at the end is internally protected. Incandescent light bulbs are, florescent light bulbs with ballasts, compact fluorescent bulbs, and LED emitters aren't. It is extremely rare that electronic devices, florescent ballasts, and LED emitters "cook off", but it does happen. Part of what allows this to happen is an excessive amount of amperage available. I had an electronic bilge pump cook off in my charter boat when the computer chip went South. Part of this was my own fault as the manufacturer specified a fuse size I didn't have, so I put one in of twice the value (5 amps). Would the fuse have blown if the correct fuse size had been installed, don't know, but it was I who bypassed the safety. I was lucky and only had minor damage. Ever since I have been focused on proper fuse size and understanding whether items are internally protected or not, and the potential risks.

Back to LED emitters:
When I switched my engine room lights to LEDs, the circuit was #10 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker. The LED draw measured about 4.5 amps with a multi meter. So I switched the breaker to 5 amps. While an emitter cooking off would be extremely rare, a 30 amp breaker would certainly provide enough power. For the rest of the light circuits I measured amperage draw and changed or installed 1 amp fuses on most of them.

Ted

O C Diver said:

You raise a good question that I have commented on before. Incandescent bulbs draw about 7 times the power of LEDs for the same light output. The circuits potentially have way to much amperage available. Read books on wiring, fuses and circuit breakers, and they all tell you the breaker or fuse protects the wiring, not the item using the power. This works under the assumption that the item at the end is internally protected. Incandescent light bulbs are, florescent light bulbs with ballasts, compact fluorescent bulbs, and LED emitters aren't. It is extremely rare that electronic devices, florescent ballasts, and LED emitters "cook off", but it does happen. Part of what allows this to happen is an excessive amount of amperage available. I had an electronic bilge pump cook off in my charter boat when the computer chip went South. Part of this was my own fault as the manufacturer specified a fuse size I didn't have, so I put one in of twice the value (5 amps). Would the fuse have blown if the correct fuse size had been installed, don't know, but it was I who bypassed the safety. I was lucky and only had minor damage. Ever since I have been focused on proper fuse size and understanding whether items are internally protected or not, and the potential risks.

Back to LED emitters:
When I switched my engine room lights to LEDs, the circuit was #10 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker. The LED draw measured about 4.5 amps with a multi meter. So I switched the breaker to 5 amps. While an emitter cooking off would be extremely rare, a 30 amp breaker would certainly provide enough power. For the rest of the light circuits I measured amperage draw and changed or installed 1 amp fuses on most of them.

Ted

Click to expand...

Ted,



Good info to downsize fuses as appropriate.



As a matter of my operating procedures, I turn of the breaker to anything I'm not currently using. The only things that stay hot are things wired to the battery (pumps) and the fridge circuit. At night when going to bed, I'll leave the light circuit and the anchor light circuit on.


I like your idea also, but do you feel the above is a good start?


Re: LEDs..... heard of a strip LED light causing a fire (maybe on this forum). Scary.



Would be nice to find the source of the fire as a learning point for us.

Seevee said:

Ted,



Good info to downsize fuses as appropriate.



As a matter of my operating procedures, I turn of the breaker to anything I'm not currently using. The only things that stay hot are things wired to the battery (pumps) and the fridge circuit. At night when going to bed, I'll leave the light circuit and the anchor light circuit on.


I like your idea also, but do you feel the above is a good start?


Re: LEDs..... heard of a strip LED light causing a fire (maybe on this forum). Scary.



Would be nice to find the source of the fire as a learning point for us.

Click to expand...

Yes, turning breakers off to unused items is a good idea IMO. In general, I think UL rated stuff is built to a better safer quality than recreational boat stuff. Another consideration with stuff on a boat is vibration. Depending on the item, this could have a significant impact on its integrity.

Ted

All good points.
Regarding LED bulbs....

First, when selecting a LED bulb, confirm socket type and if bayonet the contact orientation.

Another issue is AC vs DC. LED bulbs are made in DC and AC frequency with AC or DC bases! So it is possible to put a DC bulb in a AC socket. Confirm voltage range.

Not all LEDs can be dimmed. They do really crazy things on a dimmer circuit. Turn off and on, dim at different levels, etc. So if that happens test the bulb with jumpers from a direct source.

LEDs typically fail by melting. Not really a catastrophic failure. By design the internal circuit wiring is very small gauge. So this will be the point of failure almost everytime, and the metal base dissipates the heat.

Once you get the correct base, voltage, and frequency type, the other criteria is physical size and lumen output and light type.

Always buy warm white unless maybe in an engine room, anchor or Stern light. The cool white looks goulish, and bothers some people over time. The more lumen output the bigger the bulb, but they are making compact LEDs that cluster 50% more LEDs in the same area. They also make panel LEDs that direct the light better.

You can downsize your breakers for the circuit, which I have not done. I doubt LEDs on a boat could start a fire or burn anything up, but it is a good practice. UL means little, this stuff is made offshore and the certificate is usually counterfeit.

While I prefer the incandescent bulbs at home, I have changed all bulbs on my boat to LEDs, and keep a box of all the spares, another reason not to downsize the breaker. They resist vibration, stay cooler, draw less power, and can emit more light. They are subseptable to moisture, and don't do squat at keeping condensation down in an engine room.