Removing Transmission from Engine Question

I need to remove my Velvet Drive 10-13 transmission from a Lehman 120 for a damper plate replacement. I want to do it in the water. I can only move the shaft coupling plate back 3 1/4" before it makes contact with the stuffing box. My question- will I be able to separate the input shaft from the damper plate? Also is the standard procedure to remove the transmission from the bell housing as one or take off the gear reduction box first?

I'd remove it as one unit, no need to split the reduction housing first. I'm not positive on clearance needed to get the trans off the engine, but I remember needing about 3.5 - 4 inches to get the reduction housing off one of my velvet drives earlier this year.

You are right on the edge. I would probably try for all in one approach first. If that doesn't work pull off the reduction gear. You might try using a second hoist attached to the reduction gear to tilt the transmission out. The input shaft is only an inch into the damper spline so once you get past that you can tilt it. Transmission is ~250 lbs so you need a hoist. Must be straight when you reinstall or you could ruin damper.

I mounted a trolley so I could move it over out of the way while I replaced damper.
I think a rachet hoist gives finer adjustment.

I could only slide my tranny about two inches and it wouldn't clear the 2 studs (that make getting it on easier) to lift the tranny clear. 3.5 inches may be enough.

So I double nutted the studs and backed them out. Then i lifted the tranny enough to twist the it sideways to continue the lift.

When putting it back on.... I just lowered the tranny to a close position, then wiggled the tranny enough to get the 2 studs in.

Boy, you will be close. Can you remove the connecting plate from the shaft and gain another 2 inches? You could then push the shaft right up flush to the stuffing box. (Don't push it through though, it might get pretty wet in your engine room)

pete

If I remember correctly, take a bolt out (not a stud) and that is about how much room you need. No guarantees, but close.

If the rear mounts are on the transmission, you will need to support the engine with blocks or a second hoist. I use a second hoist.

I also took the coupling off the shaft to gain clearance. Put a hose clamp on the end of the shaft to keep it from going too far.

Get one of those load leveling things that are used to adjust the hang orientation when reinstalling. I removed and reinstalled the transmission without assistance and by leveling the transmission so that it is the same angle makes sliding the shaft into the dampner, while matching the splines on the shaft easier.

I am going to replace the damper plate on my port engine this winter. I have the engine out and sitting on the deck in the salon so it should be pretty easy to get it off and back on. I am thinking about using my floor jack to support it when we take it off.

psneeld said:

I could only slide my tranny about two inches and it wouldn't clear the 2 studs (that make getting it on easier) to lift the tranny clear. 3.5 inches may be enough.
So I double nutted the studs and backed them out. Then i lifted the tranny enough to twist the it sideways to continue the lift.When putting it back on.... I just lowered the tranny to a close position, then wiggled the tranny enough to get the 2 studs in.

Click to expand...

The 2 middle bolts are called setup studs. I had the same problem but my nuts were frozen so I chiseled them off and purchased new ones from McMaster-Carr. They make reinstallation a lot easier and ensure the input shaft is lined up with the damper.

If you are careful and precise you could reinstall without them and use all hex bolts to refasten. Note that you may have to turn the output shaft by hand to align the spines during the final inch. Coat all the bolts with anti-seize in case you have to remove tranny again.

SoWhat said:

my nuts were frozen

Click to expand...

Next time do it in the summer.

Mine didn't have any studs, just bolts. I had no problem removing or re-installing.

I didn't know about the stud "trick" at the time, if I had I would have put studs in. It would have been easier to re-install.

Thanks All, I love this forum. So much knowledge and experience available for free.
The rear engine mounts are on the engine so that makes things simpler.
Good idea taking off the shaft coupling plate and installing hose clamp. I definitely don't want any cold Canadian ocean coming into my boat.
Syjos I can't picture what the load leveling device looks like. Any chance of a picture, description or name of product.

GordC said:

Syjos I can't picture what the load leveling device looks like. Any chance of a picture, description or name of product.

Click to expand...

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

You'll still have to horse it around a little. Just make sure you keep your fingers away from bottom of transmission. Like slamming the door on your finger if chain hoist slips a link. I had some 2X8's in my oil drip pan to spread load if trans dropped for any reason. OCD on part.

I scribed my shaft and couplers before removal. If everything goes back the in the same place shaft alignment should be easier.

Great, thanks

GordC said:

Syjos I can't picture what the load leveling device looks like. Any chance of a picture, description or name of product.

Click to expand...

Amazon or Harbor Freight

psneeld said:

If I remember correctly, take a bolt out (not a stud) and that is about how much room you need. No guarantees, but close.

Click to expand...

This is about right. The transmission splines only engage the damper by about 1.5". This is a picture of the spline on a 10-13 Velvet Drive.


Ken

Take it out as a unit, much less work. You have plenty of room only needs to move aft 2".
If you can straddle the engine hatch, two guys with ropes can lift it out. I've done it 2-3 times also loaded it in small dinghy once and rowed it to shore from my mooring also 2 guys.

I think the weight mentioned earlier is overstated. It is about 100 lbs. w/ reduction attached.

Weight-wise, a 10-13 (71C v-drive with reduction) should be about 150 - 160 lbs.

A 10-13 is not 250 lbs nor is it a v-drive. It is a Velvet Drive “drop shaft” CR2. Borg Warner lists the dry weight as 162 lbs.

Ken

I loosen the rear engine motor mounts and lift the back of the engine until the transmission drive flange is above the shaft flange. Block the engine and remove the transmission straight back. Installation is reverse.

kchace said:

A 10-13 is not 250 lbs nor is it a v-drive. It is a Velvet Drive “drop shaft” CR2. Borg Warner lists the dry weight as 162 lbs.

Ken

Click to expand...

I stand corrected. 162 lbs it is. More than my back will handle.

No need to remove transmission from ER if just replacing a damper plate or a seal. Replacing clutch plates is a shop task. I used a long 2X10 from cabin sole to ER as a ramp and just walked it up. (I have twins) No heavy lifting involved.

Although I did port side while it was in the water and did lift it from swim platform to dock. I tied a long rope to it just in case