Loose rudder

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RRPrather

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
13
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Cool Change
Vessel Make
Mainship 36 Sedan (Nantucket)
After having our boat hauled out at the end of the season I was checking the rudders and found the port side is loose on the shaft. The shaft is tight in the stuffing box but the rudder blade has almost 3/8" of play on the shaft. Has anyone experienced this or know of a fix? I did inquire at our marinas service department but haven't had the best track record with the work they have done on my boat for the previous owner.
 
What is it made of?

Picture woul be helpful.
 
Welcome aboard. Yes, we need a bit more info. As said previously what is it made out of and photos would help a lot.
 
The shaft is stainless and its cast into a bronze blade. I dont have any pictures but wiil snap some when I go the check on the shrink wrap.The service dept said they could try pressing it or pinning it but gave no solid answers. I just want to avoid paying someone to dick around if there is no known fix, I would rather just order a new one and be done with it. Just wondering if anyone else has had this happen and had any fixes short of replacement. Either way it has to come out according to the service manager.
 
In a previous boat we had a similar problem with one of the rudders. The yard drilled and pinned it. I sold the boat shortly after that so I cannot really say how well it held up.
 
Drill a counter sunk hole through rudder into the shaft, tap and screw in a flat or oval head cap or machine screw to hold rudder on the shaft. Oval or flat depending on the rudders contour at hole.

Depending on the rudders size, several fasteners on either side of the rudder should tighten it up.
 
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Drilling and pinning was one of the options that the yard gave, I'll probably have them do that. I was curious if this was common problem as this is my first boat with inboards and rudders. My previous boat was a 28 footer with a stern drive and a trailer so I'm not used to being at the mercy of the boat yard. After having been jerked around by boat dealers and boat service shops I purchased the needed tools and learned to do my own repairs. It was quite an eye opener to discover the amount of shoddy work being done by allot of marine dealers especially when it comes to stern drives.
 
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"I would rather just order a new one and be done with it."


Before having a semi skilled yard work in the rudder , check the price of a new unit.
 
determining how the ruder is attached to the shaft is the first step. Then determine what went wrong.
 
Why am I not able to afford one? I've actually priced them and they're between $600 and $800 dollars. But thanks for the insightful input.
 
"I would rather just order a new one and be done with it."


Before having a semi skilled yard work in the rudder , check the price of a new unit.
I have actually price one, $600 $800 range.
 
On my "ex" a 1978 Mainship I, the bronze rudder shaft was eaten up under the packing.
I had kept my old bronze prop shaft that I had replaced the previous year.
The marina sent it to a local shop and they removed the damaged rudder shaft and pressed in and pinned a new piece of my old prop shaft (same diameter).
They did a great job I could barley find where they pinned it.
I had the boat 5 more years and never a problem.
Pinning (or bolting as suggested above) is a good fix.
 
I would solicit a good machine shop to do the repair, provided it can be done for about half the cost of a new one. Your still gonna pay for the removal and install one way or the other.
A good machinist will also find any other problems such as Galvanic Corrosion or Crevise Corrosion, now its gonna get expensive. This kind of repair will most likely help you decide which way to go.
But since you have done the research on a “new” one (not a used one) you have a baseline to make decisions.
CHeers
 
The drilling, tapping and bolting can be completed without removing the rudder and shaft from boat.

Your new rudder, unless cast in one piece could come loose also.

I drill, tap and bolt every two piece rudder/shaft whether new or old.
 
Wow, If you can get one for under a grand I am impressed. Add shipping, removal and installation and you still might come in at under $2,000. Not bad but a pinning would only be a few hundred.

pete
 
Thanks for the responses, now I have an idea of which way to go.
 
I had one of mine drilled and pinned for about $75. I filled the remaining gap with wicking locktite. Three years and 450 hours later it’s still tight.
 
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