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Old 10-12-2019, 06:22 AM   #14
GregBrannon
Guru
 
City: Solomons, MD
Vessel Name: Branwen
Vessel Model: Hatteras 48 LRC
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 645
Thanks for the great ideas and lessons in wood working.

I'm leaning towards a combination of the suggestions:
  • Hollow out a new block of wood to roughly fit over the existing wood that's worth saving - all rot removed
  • Fill the hollow in the new block with an epoxy-based putty or epoxy with a thickener added
  • Slide the new block with filling over the surviving wood
  • Secure in place (1) with the epoxy filling only, (2) add dowels before sliding in place, or (3) add lag screws through the new block into the railing and countersink the heads
  • Shape the addition so that the hardware fits securely and screw in place
I've already ordered a teak block and will add the repair to the off-season project list. I may have to do 4 of these repairs and will hopefully experience design and skill improvements as I go. If not, I'll throw up my hands in failure and hire it out.

A reason for the rot underneath the hardware is water intrusion at the wood-hardware interface. Any suggestions on what to use or how to prevent/reduce water seeping in beneath the hardware?

I agree with Cigatoo's sentiments and intend to do the best repair I can, which I'd try to do on my boat no matter the manufacturer. If I can't do it well, I'll hire someone who can.

LouTribal, my layman's interpretation is that the "trait de jupiter" joint is a variation of the scarf joint.

Sealife, I'm sure your pictures will be helpful, and your lessons learned on a similar repair are valuable. Thanks for sharing both.

It'll be a while, but I'll document the work, and let you know how my plan works out. Your adjustments and advice are still welcome and appreciated.

Greg
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