Slowasyougo
Member
Contemplating purchase. Which boats less than 200,000 do not use cored construction?
Pascoe’s discussion of cored costruction
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Slowasyougo
Member
Obviously you have no idea what cored construction is. The practice of sandwiching balsa between the external fiberglass and the internal fiberglass reduced weight and made the construction cheaper.
psneeld
Guru
Oh boy, lots to debate here....
Cored construction can be different things and in both high and low end boats.
Start slinging mud this early and you may wind up in a landslide of knowledge that buries your last post.
Cored construction can be different things and in both high and low end boats.
Start slinging mud this early and you may wind up in a landslide of knowledge that buries your last post.
Slowasyougo
Member
Maybe a little abrupt in that response. Yes, I am dealing with cheaper 1980 and 1990 vessels which from what I can see most used balsa or some other core material.
South of Heaven
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Nah, I have no idea.
Only been building foam, balsa and strip planked composite boats most of my life.
Lol
RT Firefly
Enigma
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Most boats do not have cored hulls. If you are interested in a boat call the broker and ask if that specific boat has a cored hull. And maybe be a bit more circumspect when you disagree with someone here. BTW, welcome aboard.
Most boats of that age are going to have wood in them, the question is where, how it was encapsulated, what kind . The question is a bit too broad.
Plus Pascoe as a reference is too politically loaded, your not likely to get a useful response.
Lots of knowledge here, you might want to ask a question more likely to get the response you want.
Hulls you need to go mfg by mfg, everything else is a sliding scale. Pretty unusual to not get some rot somewhere, you just want to keep it in the annoying category, not in the level where the whole boat is not economical to maintain.
Plus Pascoe as a reference is too politically loaded, your not likely to get a useful response.
Lots of knowledge here, you might want to ask a question more likely to get the response you want.
Hulls you need to go mfg by mfg, everything else is a sliding scale. Pretty unusual to not get some rot somewhere, you just want to keep it in the annoying category, not in the level where the whole boat is not economical to maintain.
BruceK
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OP, you may benefit from searching recent threads which cover coring, incl the late David Pascoe`s views. Asking for an exhaustive list of cored sub 200K boats while being offensive,is a big ask. I believe one big Euro builder is still making them.
This is the recent string about cored hulls. As stated above Pascoe's views are discussed.
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/cored-hulls-46161-2.html
By the way I did contact the technical director of ABYC about the dangers of hull damage to cored (and solid) hulls from hydraulic pad lift (versus keel lift) yard trailers and they invited me to contribute to their upcoming rewrite of material in this area. For those with an interest, the first photo below is a pad lift only trailer (no keel support). The second is a keel lift trailer (note the cross beams). The keel lift trailer does have hydraulic side stabilizing arms...but they do not support the weight of the boat. In my view pad lift trailers are a menace...particularly for most cored hull boats.
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/cored-hulls-46161-2.html
By the way I did contact the technical director of ABYC about the dangers of hull damage to cored (and solid) hulls from hydraulic pad lift (versus keel lift) yard trailers and they invited me to contribute to their upcoming rewrite of material in this area. For those with an interest, the first photo below is a pad lift only trailer (no keel support). The second is a keel lift trailer (note the cross beams). The keel lift trailer does have hydraulic side stabilizing arms...but they do not support the weight of the boat. In my view pad lift trailers are a menace...particularly for most cored hull boats.
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Marlinmike
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I remember when he (Pascoe) stated I was a guinea pig for buying Yanmar diesels, 20 years and 3500 hours and very happen with the decision... But everyone has an opinion, that's what makes the world go around...
diver dave
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Pascoe did underestimate the Japanese ability to design and fab high quality diesels that rev high and last long. But, I still like him, cause he liked my boat.:lol:
South of Heaven
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I have a Silverton. I should just sink my boat and get on my knees and repent.
diver dave
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egads. can I get a life insurance policy on you?
South of Heaven
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Do it!
Codger2
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(WHEW!) I'm overjoyed to hear that! I'm 4 years into my first set of Yanmars. so far-so good! (That reminds me of the guy who jumped off the Empire State Building's 78th floor...As he passed by an open window of the 44th floor, people heard him say "so far--so good."
I am looking at a steel hulled trawler in part because I do not feel like putting up with moisture issues that invariably come with an older boat (what I can afford). I also like the design, efficiency, and year of build (no rusting fuel tanks and can be financed). A good surveyor should be able to tell you what level of moisture is acceptable and what/where is not. The problem with this is that the moisture will be used against you when you sell the boat, and the moisture can get worse (delam or broken glass). Stringers and decks are where I am most concerned. I assume you realize that cored glass is WAY stronger than solid glass right? The I beam theory, etc. Some of the older boats used so much glass with their coring that it does not matter if the wood turns to soup (Chris Craft, Hatteras, Bertram). I recently saw some wet stringers on a TT. They were 10 inches wide. Problem was 9 7/8 of that was wood. Even the woven glass was small and broad weave. The tabbing had already broken loose from the hull. Not sure why well done beautiful trawlers made of steel are worth less, but they are. Worth less than what? Laminated composites, many with wood coring.
So true and for moparharn looking for a steel boat to avoid moisture, guess he doesn't realize that steel has it's on challenges.
ranger58sb
Guru
I'd think careful shopping could mitigate that. IOW, I don't think it's "invariable" and even when found, I've read it's often fixable with relative ease.
You should buy what you like, what you're comfortable with, but I suspect a very high percentage of FRP buyers do just fine... no matter whether the hull is solid or cored.
Aside: I'd guess if everyone bought "according to Pascoe" few of us would own anything.
-Chris
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I’ll join you. We have a cored hull! :lol:
