For Those Who Have Had Their Teak Decks Removed

I have gone through the archives and could not find this, just very general answers
**I’m looking for price feedback from folks who have had their teak decks removed and painted with non skid. ** I realize prices will vary due to condition and choice of paint etc.

Please, if you have had this done to your vessel, can you answer these questions?

1) who did the project ( a referral would be greatly appreciated)
2) how much was the final cost
3) general idea of extensive repair of subdeck ( lots of rot vs. very little repair needed, need to build up fiberglass etc)
4) boat make and model


Thanks
Erika

PS this list would help many, not just me

Well, we don't know enough from you have told us. How big is the boat? About how many square feet of teak? No one knows what they will find under the teak. It could take two guys a month to do the job at $100.00 per hour each, plus supplies. Is the boat worth new $30,000 dollar decks? This is one project that most people would do themselves.

Russell Clifton said:

Well, we don't know enough from you have told us. How big is the boat? About how many square feet of teak? No one knows what they will find under the teak. It could take two guys a month to do the job at $100.00 per hour each, plus supplies. Is the boat worth new $30,000 dollar decks? This is one project that most people would do themselves.

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Per her avatar, it’s a 42’ Grand Banks...

It will depend on what they find when the teak has been removed. What condition is the core in? Is the top fiberglass thick enough without the teak or is more glass needed in order for the deck to be structurally sound? How bad was it to get the teak off? How badly was the fiberglass damaged when the teak was removed? I would guess it would cost between $20 and 30K to have it done. As mentioned most of the time this is done it is DIY due to the cost.

I agree on the $20K+ estimate for removal, re-glass, refinish (non-skid) for a 42' trawler. If you find significant delamitation or rot then those repairs would represent additional project costs above and beyond the replacement. I would expect to find those issues in any screwed down teak deck.

We replaced our boat deck recently (DIY). Materials were about 10% of that cost, but our (sweat equity) labor hours were extensive due to our decision to go all in on a complete deck replacement.

And a nice replacement deck it is.

I have some costs from 2012. Work done by BUMS at Port Townsend, WA. I removed deck hardware and teak, but then left the guys to do the rest. The core was balsa, and about 40% rotted and 50% wet. The thin GRP layer below the balsa was intact, no interior leaks.

We replaced in strips about 4ft wide so as to have something solid to work from. Replacement was 2 x marine ply layers bedded with vinyl ester resin to give same thickness as balsa, I think 5/8". The ply joins on the top layer were staggered across the lower layer. Faired and then a new GRP top layer created, probably around 3/16", once again wth vinyl ester resin. Then faired and awl grip, with micro balloons for non-slip. The area was approx 92 sq ft, and the BUMS cost was $17,000. Very happy with result. Now 7 years on, no issues at all.

Russell Clifton said:

Well, we don't know enough from you have told us. How big is the boat? About how many square feet of teak? No one knows what they will find under the teak. It could take two guys a month to do the job at $100.00 per hour each, plus supplies. Is the boat worth new $30,000 dollar decks? This is one project that most people would do themselves.

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I think the question is who's had it done ?
Not asking for a quote

Mine was done in Australia, so not 100% helpful, on a 1981 36ft Island Gypsy Europa. All teak was removed. Except for 2 ft square sections after stepping up to bow level, the deck sandwich material underneath was intact foam. The 2 squares of teak were soft and wet, and replaced with foam. I wanted fresh teak in the cockpit and side decks,and painted non slip on the exposed foredeck.The former required one layer of fiberglass laid, the latter needed 2 layers, to restore stiffness. The glued on fresh teak was expensive, the painted non slip way cheaper, but the cost was worth it. Paint choice cost would be a minor consideration.
Water ingress is the big issue, you either do the job or hopelessly compromise the boat. There`s little option but to fix it.

While I do not have teak decks, I did have some delamination and rot repaired as part of a larger redit/restoration. First stop on my cruising plan was Ensenada MX, South of San Diego. I found a small team of workers (NizaMarine.com) who include excellent fiberglass and paint workers. I cannot speak to the exact cost as it was blended with some other work, but in general, I've been surprised at how quickly skilled fiberglass workers can work.

I live in St Pete FL where our boat will eventually end up. I considered of the boat shipped to Florida and having the work done there. I talked with many yards - some in out of the ay places - to see if there were affordable options for a large project. I received tepid responses, and the yard rates were not much different than San Francisco Bay area yards - $125/hr range. So I spent some money getting the boat seaworthy for the 500nm trip south to Ensenada and headed south.

I see the OP is in the panhandle of Florida. I hear rumor there are capable and affordable yards in Isla Mujeres MX which should be within range of your GB 42 (assuming she's in reasonable condition). I know there is a decent cruiser community there - shouldn't be too difficult to tap into if you're up for the adventure.

We did the back deck of my boat during my refit. As mentioned, repairing / replacing coring can be a huge cost. I removed the teak in 2 days. There was no water damage to coring. Screw holes were filled. 2 layers of biaxial cloth with fiberglass were added for rigidity. Then numerous coats of gelcoat and finally Kiwigrip. I would guess the cost below $4k as there was a lot of finishing and fairing for the gutter system around the deck. Unfortunately Sean is booked for the next 2 years, and with his regular customers on top of that, I think that number is optimistic.















Ted

Looks nice. Kiwi Grip is just the non skid portion correct? Is the gloss paint of Gelcoat?

Cigatoo said:

Looks nice. Kiwi Grip is just the non skid portion correct? Is the gloss paint of Gelcoat?

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Yes, Kiwigrip is just the non skid top coating. Gelcoat does a great job of fairing the fiberglass surface, is durable, and easily sandable. The shiny top coat is Awlgrip paint over the Gelcoat.

Ted

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I’m looking to hear from those who have had it done.

If I get a good pool of prices, company and location, and boat info. I’ll make a list for other to reference for price range and hopefully yards/contractors to look into.
Thanks again,
Erika

"By using one of KiwiGrip's proprietary rollers (sold separately) and by varying application technique, the texture can be adjusted from fine to aggressive for the right amount of traction."

How aggressive can be done?

I know it will never match the current USN antiskid that has chunks of flint , but great traction is still a requirement .

FF said:

"By using one of KiwiGrip's proprietary rollers (sold separately) and by varying application technique, the texture can be adjusted from fine to aggressive for the right amount of traction."

How aggressive can be done?

I know it will never match the current USN antiskid that has chunks of flint , but great traction is still a requirement .

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The level of aggressiveness is a function of how thick a coating you apply and how much you roll it. My swim platform is around 100 grit sandpaper. Most of the boat decks are much more aggressive. A few spots are uncomfortable to walk on barefoot. Basically it goes on with the thickness of cake frosting and then shrinks some as it dries. You want to do several test squares (1' x 1') on cardboard or scrap wood to determine the thickness and amount of rolling to get the desired effect you want. There are a number of videos on the internet showing technique and results.

Ted

I believe Howard (the guy who losses shoes) had his done ar Grand Banks in Stuart. You may want to pick his brain (possibly a bribe with a pair of shoes).

I painted the top of the hardtop over our sundeck with Kiwigrip. I didn’t want it very aggressive so I used a regular roller. It isn’t very aggressive but looks great. With their roller you will get a pretty aggressive non skid. If you roll it once and let it sit for a bit then roll it again you will get extremely aggressive non skid.

On my old 34 Monk, I redid the rear cockpit, stripping down to wood. On the suggestion of an old timer (got to be careful of that phrase, since by definition, I guess I AM one now!) I put down West System Epoxy, first coat, while still tacky, I sprinkled clay type kitty litter on the epoxy to the "traction level" that I desired. Then put on second coat of West System. The epoxy, soaked into the clay kitty litter, creating an epoxy reinforced matrix. The epoxy also smoothed over the bits of kitty litter, rounding them off. Then finished off with Awlgrip. When I sold the boat 4 years later, it still looked brand new. Hint: make sure you use Marine Grade kitty litter!

Paint instead of remove and save $14000

I got a price to remove, glass and paint the decks on my '73 gb 42 for $15,000 in cape Canaveral FL. Painted with tuff coat for $600 myself. Two years later my creme colored no skid surface looks great. I know many consider what I did a very bad idea but I would do it again in heart beat. Clean, prime, paint with roller. Enough left over to touch up the high traffic areas which I have not had to do. Comes in a rainbow of colors. No regrets. My teak was in decent shape, some minor+ leaks, but cost of refinishing/ calking was just not rational. Tuff coat holds up well on fuel spills and also eliminated my leaks.

dave52 said:

I got a price to remove, glass and paint the decks on my '73 gb 42 for $15,000 in cape Canaveral FL. Painted with tuff coat for $600 myself. Two years later my creme colored no skid surface looks great. I know many consider what I did a very bad idea but I would do it again in heart beat. Clean, prime, paint with roller. Enough left over to touch up the high traffic areas which I have not had to do. Comes in a rainbow of colors. No regrets. My teak was in decent shape, some minor+ leaks, but cost of refinishing/ calking was just not rational. Tuff coat holds up well on fuel spills and also eliminated my leaks.

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Before and after pics please?

Save yourself a ton of dollars and do the labor yourself. It’s not difficult just time consuming. I agree with some above 15 to 20 thousand if you get someone else to do it highly dependant on the extent of the rot. I did the entire upper deck myself...it’s just demolition and rebuild. Nothing beyond basic carpentry and some fibreglass work which is easy. Pictures in my albums on this site.

I agree with Tangler.
You will "bond" with your boat in the process !
From the pictures you will see I removed the spongy top skin in my cockpit (approx 70 sq. ft.) took out the rotted core, and sanded down to the bottom skin, which I completely saturated with epoxy, cut and dry-fitted marine plywood cut into 2 x 4 squares. Removed and epoxied every piece seperatly then fitted them back into another bed of epoxy resin. When finished I gave all the joints a epoxy spread, then epoxied the top skin in place. This took time as I did individual pieces. After the top skin was secure, I faired out the seams, sanded, and used Tuff Kote with non skid included. To make it look even better I cut and placed Plastix teak squares to finish. Materials approx $300.00. Time; An enjoyable 55 hours. You can park a tank on it !
If I knew how I would post pictures !!

Yes, it is certainly doable without a lot of practice. It is just hard work physically but not technically.

By the way, Mrs Captain was also a huge help with the labor and general support. I replaced the upper deck and recalked the teak on the lower decks.

Gluvit is cheap! I painted mine with the stuff, then two coats of brown paint and non skid. Looks fine and no leaks.
I look at this way. A 41 year old CHB is only going to be worth a finite amount of money regardless how much money I throw at it, within reason of course. The teak is in good shape, but there were a couple of leaks forward that would run aft and into my bunk!! Not good.
I fixed the leaks by refastening a few screws and running penetrating epoxy into the holes before re screwing. That actually stopped the leak, but I figured just Gluvit the whole thing and be done with it. I am satisfied with the result. Others MMV.
This pix shows the side deck. I had taken several pix right after doing it, but they are gone.

I did find some pics that were really not taken as before and after unfortunately I don't know how to post them. It is good stuff, really covers well, affordable and for me at 15:1 worth the risk of less than $1000. I figured I could still always rip the teak out.

Looks great, and if you beat the leak... Perfect. Your comments on your boat only being worth only so much no matter how much you invest in it are right on. I have a 73 42' gb that will never be worth half of what I have into it. Just put a bow thurster on it... I love it, will make it easier to sell someday but not really increase the value. My boat is not an investment, it is an extreme expense that the admiral and I enjoy together.

Has anyone done the “rough work”- remove teak, remove core, replace core, epoxy all the right things/places - but have a pro so the top skin and finish? I’m not that good with the fine details.....

Gmarr..explore this forum...you will find lots of repair stories. Like I said ...basic carpentry and time...just keep bashing away at it. Not all trawlers have a ‘core’. Mine is all hardwood framing 2.5” square. I pulled out several soft spots and laminated and epoxied, fiberglassed and then had a pro do the gel coat...I probably could have done that too.