Hurricane Lines?

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ERTF

Senior Member
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Aug 16, 2017
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245
Location
USA
44' Aft Cabin / Sundeck Trawler.

What's the ideal thickness of 3-strand nylon spool to keep on hand should I need to spiderweb in the mangroves?
 
New England Rope, West Marine, etc. have some guides for that.

I've found it also depends on the boat's cleat size, given potential need to place two or three lines on a given cleat.

Note also that color can also affect rope strength; IIRC, NER says their white and gold lines are "stronger" than other colors of the same thickness.

-Chris
 
Depending on how protected the spot is from forecast wind direction. Likely 5/8 or 3/4. More importantly do you have a place picked out and a plan on how and when to do this?
Ever done it before?
 
http://ibb.co/R9h7n7q

I'm gonna take cruise to the Keys to scout out a spot like the link above, so i can count on it in the future. I know of a narrow mangrove "bay" in Miami (homebase), but the problem with bays is other boats can be blown into you. Thats why i want to find a mangrove canal/creek. Preferably a dead end.

Ideally, i want to find a spot in the Keys and 1 in the Stuart area. That way if a hurricane is headed for the South FL area (2-4 days out), I can move North or South 100miles, depending on the storms directional bias. And the added benefit of both those general locations is the option to get to the West Coast from each of them.

I already have 4 x 150ft sections of 5/8 polydac. Plus I bought a spool of 3/4 nylon yesterday. Thats in addition to a tub full of docklines and some misc lengths of 1/2 - 3/4 that came with the boat. Also, 125ft of 7/8 on my spare anchor rode.

I think im pretty well set on lines.....just wanted confirmation on if that 3/4 is adequate for a boat my size/windage? I could still go back and swap for 7/8 or 1in if 3/4 is cutting it too close for comfort. All the talk I could find on google regarding hurricane line thickness was from sailboaters.
 
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3/4” is plenty strong, the issue will be chafe. Another thought, if you find yourself a great hurricane hole, what are the chances you might find another boat there when you need it?
 
3/4” is plenty strong, the issue will be chafe. Another thought, if you find yourself a great hurricane hole, what are the chances you might find another boat there when you need it?

I have some old chain, as well as firehose for chafe.

I'll be there early in event of a storm, I live the boat and have nothing but time.
 
3/4” is plenty strong, the issue will be chafe. Another thought, if you find yourself a great hurricane hole, what are the chances you might find another boat there when you need it?

This is key on both counts. There are boats that have been using the same spots for years. And unless you have very shallow draft, really not that many places.

The other issue is once you have it secured, how do you plan to get back to the mainland?
 
My draft cant be that much more than the sportfisher in the link. And i have a skiff to get back to shore if im not gonna ride it out.
 
5/8" let it stretch, wind predicted is 45 gusts to 70 not really that bad
 
5/8" let it stretch, wind predicted is 45 gusts to 70 not really that bad

I may have looked at the wrong thing, but last I saw it was going to be a Cat2/3 upon arrival.
 
Having weathered a number of noreasters and hurricanes in slips, its not necessary the rope thickness but chafe protection that's most important for me. Three strand ropes really stretch out when under heavy load, braided a lot less, surge heights also need to be taken into account, for Sandy I was inches away from the top of the piling, so a dash of luck in this also helps. Centering a boat in a wide canal is one of the other best locations.
All the best that are in or near the path - please do not take risks like staying on the boat, don't ask me how I know...
 
What are people on this forum using for chafe protection? Picture would be great if you have them. I have found that chafe is the enemy and it is caused by many different situations.
 
I would start with how many lines can you fit on a cleat. 3/4 is nice, but if you can only fit one line per cleat, there isn't much point. You should be able to get at least 2 lines on each cleat. If you're also anchoring, the bow cleats are already going to have snubbers on them.
 
The simplest tie ups are the hawse holes with ears attached.


The distance between the cleat portion and overboard is so short a sawing action does not occur.
 
The simplest tie ups are the hawse holes with ears attached.


The distance between the cleat portion and overboard is so short a sawing action does not occur.

I have a friend who would strongly disagree with that after having two lines suffer with that set up.
 
3/4” is plenty strong, the issue will be chafe. Another thought, if you find yourself a great hurricane hole, what are the chances you might find another boat there when you need it?

Chafing in this case, I would not worry about 2 or 3 days. If it makes you feel better, use 1 inch water hose.

IF possible, the traditional 8 lines and then, double them up.

If you are going to remain on board, you may have to adjust your lines from the boat..... remember, storm surge and new lines stretch more than lines used in a previous storm.

Try not to over fill your cleats.
 
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I use 5/8" nylon 3-strand on my smaller 38' to storm tie. It is adequate as I am in a protected basin. I really could not use 3/4" as the cleats are not big enough to double up lines.

That's been the issue on lots of boats I helped storm tie. Running out of cleat. Don't really want to loop it as if piling tied as that makes it real hard to slack the lines when the surge comes up. The other end of line might be under water!! Loops are ok if on a floating dock, but that can bring on a whole 'nuther set of issues.

Every storm tie situation is different. No one set of rules apply.
 
Every storm tie situation is different. No one set of rules apply.

So true. One thing I'm a little concerned about in some of the posts is if people are taking into account surge. Given the intensity and angle of attack of this one, the surge is likely going to be massive in a wide swath of areas. Add to that the enormous rainfall. People tend to think purely in terms of wind speed and how it will affect their boat and dwelling.

The other, bigger concern is people who are planning to "ride it out" in their boat, let alone thinking they are going to go out on deck and adjust lines in the midst of the storm.
There is absolutely no way I'd ever do that anywhere near the coast or in the path of the storm.
 
I agree with Ski. in addition seen massive spider webs of lines with no rim nor reason and the other flaw is keeping it really loose and they are preparing for the surge yet the boat rickashay around the slip like a scolded dog eventually breaking dock cleats or lines.
 
In the end it comes down to good planning based on your boat and slip/anchorage - after that it is just a whole lot of luck or divine intervention. Boats can be replaced - people can't. Never would I stay on the boat. Leave, then come back and see what is left.
 
The other, bigger concern is people who are planning to "ride it out" in their boat, let alone thinking they are going to go out on deck and adjust lines in the midst of the storm.
There is absolutely no way I'd ever do that anywhere near the coast or in the path of the storm.

I was able to go outside and adjust the lines during Irma but, I had to pick my times. Yes, I did take my time adjust the lines. Adjust, watch, adjust and watch.
 
For chaffing, do not use anything that will keep water away from the lines. Nothing like hose or anything that is waterproof. You want the rain and spray to keep the hose wet so it will not heat up and melt. Nylon line can actually melt from the heat of friction when the line is chaffing. We have some velcro on webbing chaffing gear that I believe was made by Davis. It stays in place due to the heavy duty velcro and is made from webbing that water will go through to help keep the line cooler. You can use heavy towels but you will need something to secure the towels to the lines. Tie wraps may work to secure the chaffing gear.
 
On the chafing topic, in addition to chafe gear to protect lines as needed, also try to route lines off the cleats, etc. in ways that minimize the possibility of chafe in the first place. The less the line can touch, the less it can chafe.
 
On the chafing topic, in addition to chafe gear to protect lines as needed, also try to route lines off the cleats, etc. in ways that minimize the possibility of chafe in the first place. The less the line can touch, the less it can chafe.

Yes, fairlead is a good thing...
 
I just posted a comment on the Dorian.. thread about possibly using lighter lines that break at some point in the surge to position the boat in the early stages. It was done successfully as I noted in the post.
 
Practical Sailor rated Chafe Pro tops in a chafe test they did a few years ago. It's not the cheapest, but darn good stuff! Coast Guard, Navy use it, etc. Last year Chafe Pro came out with a hollow tube version - you can slide it over a section of line for extra potection. Defender sells it by the foot (they sell the other Chafe Pro products too),
 
I was able to go outside and adjust the lines during Irma but, I had to pick my times. Yes, I did take my time adjust the lines. Adjust, watch, adjust and watch.

But Irma caused tropical storm winds in Aventura (no fun to be sure), not hurricane force. Or were you over on the west coast then?
 
But Irma caused tropical storm winds in Aventura (no fun to be sure), not hurricane force. Or were you over on the west coast then?

Remember, I was on the dirty side of the hurricane.
 
The simplest tie ups are the hawse holes with ears attached. The distance between the cleat portion and overboard is so short a sawing action does not occur.

Can someone tell me what "hawse holes with ears" is exactly? Know what a hawse hole is but...ears?
 

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