Repair or Replace Aqua Signal Series 40 Masthead Navigation Light

I have an Aqua Signal Series 40 Masthead Navigation Light 40400-7 with a cracked cover do I fix, repair or replace. I can find the entire light but have not found replacement parts?

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=65193

Specs say the housing is polycarbonate, which is a theromoset plastic, tough stuff. Can be hard to glue. Looks like you just need to seal up the cracks to keep moisture out. Costs next to nothing to try that. I'd try to squeeze or press some caulk or sealant into the cracks. Since its way up high, even if you build up an ugly bead you won't be able to see it!

It's got the good LED in there, go for it. Leaves 79 clams for the liquor locker.

While you might contact the manufacturer and get some good will help, I ended up replacing all of mine during the refit process. The housings were fine, but the lenses were crazed and discolored. While new lenses are available, the cost differences between the lense and the light made a whole new light a modest increase and all new parts an easy choice.

Ted

Thanks for the advice and I will try to repair first. But not sure which glue to use?

"But not sure which glue to use?"


WEAR GLOVES! I would try PL glue.

What have you got on hand? I would suggest a thin or low viscosity sealant and work it into the cracks with a gloved finger. Glues as such don't usually adhere well to polycarbonate.

GoneFarrell said:

What have you got on hand? I would suggest a thin or low viscosity sealant and work it into the cracks with a gloved finger. Glues as such don't usually adhere well to polycarbonate.

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Gorilla make a cyanoacrilate (sp?) that I have used succesfully on plastics that refused airplane glue and epoxy.
Try different glues until you find one that works.

Perhaps use Black PL roof and flashing polyurethane, its like a soft rubber and its black. Patch it with a black adhesive caulk.

I have also used a soldering gun to melt plastic back together. If you know what type plastic, you can melt in some new plastic and weld it up.

Great suggestions, I have not tried welding plastic

Polycarbonate is a thermoset plastic, it is irreversibly hardened when cured, and does not melt like thermoplastics, such as polypropylene. It just burns and makes a mess.

The low viscosity non-foaming cyanoacrylates might work, but I think they have low UV resistance, this thing is up there getting UV all day long.

I used to mess with this stuff in previous lifetime, outgassing, vacuum or chemical environments, funny what gets recalled from brain stem sometimes.

I think that I would just replace it. I wouldn’t want it to leak and stop working on a trip and not be able to display the proper nav lights.

GoneFarrell said:

Polycarbonate is a thermoset plastic, it is irreversibly hardened when cured, and does not melt like thermoplastics, such as polypropylene. It just burns and makes a mess.

The low viscosity non-foaming cyanoacrylates might work, but I think they have low UV resistance, this thing is up there getting UV all day long.

I used to mess with this stuff in previous lifetime, outgassing, vacuum or chemical environments, funny what gets recalled from brain stem sometimes.

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Really? Wont melt?
I have melted togther many plastics to repair broken parts.

https://www.amazon.com/Polycarbonate-Clear-Plastic-Welding-Rod/dp/B0061S5XW0
Polycarbonate Clear 1/8" Plastic Welding Rod - 1lb Coil

Polycarbonate has a glass transition temperature of about 147 °C (297 °F; 420 K),[7] so it softens gradually above this point and flows above about 155 °C (311 °F; 428 K).[8] Tools must be held at high temperatures, generally above 80 °C (176 °F; 353 K) to make strain-free and stress-free products. Low molecular mass grades are easier to mold than higher grades, but their strength is lower as a result. The toughest grades have the highest molecular mass, but are much more difficult to

This will sound crazy but I have used this before. Place line of baking soda over the crack and and then soak with super glue. Drys fast and hard and provides good adhesion and seal. Will not be pretty but it doesn’t appear it needs to be. Function over form or something like that.

Don

I was debating replacing ours with LED. I realized servicing an extinguished LED lamp would probably not be possible, whereas I can service the Series 40 with cleaning, preserving, and new bulbs.

If it were me, I would replace the entire lamp with a like lamp and be done with it. The repair may fail at a lousy time.

Best of Luck

I found a replacement for my starboard case via eBay. Might be worth setting up a 'saved search', that way they'll send you an e-mail if/when a match comes up.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=aqua+signal+40&_sacat=0