Questions on oil change system install

Still messing around with installing my (overkill) Reverso oil change system. Have new hoses from the oil sumps installed and ready to connect up to the pump after I finish installing it. Not concerned with the gears or the generator yet. Saving those for later. The only place I could find to reasonably install it is at the base of the fuel manifold, see pic. Using two aluminium cross bars bolted into the end of the generator supports/stringers.

After connecting the fittings on the pump and aiming them forward I find that it would be much better to flip them to aim towards the stern, under the generator platform. This would keep the hoses out of harms way and allow more room for general generator maintenance. It also would allow an easier feed in from the engines. To do so I need to bring the hoses to the rear of the trannys and then through the stringers supporting the generator. See pics, not installed yet so had to hold it in place with along screw driver.

There is a 2.5"-3" hole on either side for the fuel lines to come in to the manifold. They are lined with a large plastic "grommet" for lack of a better term. I need to add a hole on each side and don't know if the stringer is solid, hollow, wood, whatever. The exterior is covered with fiberglass cloth. What should I expect if I try to use a hole saw to make an opening? If I do make the openings what should I line them with?

Also, any comments or suggestions on the install greatly appreciated. It's really not too late for me to stop the madness and just use a hand pump!

Where did you find drain plug adapters/valves?

I expect you will find wood inside the stringers. If so, you would want to soak the wood with epoxy, maybe three coats.

Ted

jgreene69 said:

Where did you find drain plug adapters/valves?

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Ashamed to say I have not found any and haven't completed the install. I began it right after my last oil change so haven't needed the system. Time is approaching though...just need to finish the plumbing of the lines. The lines are cut, connections are on and ready to go. Just nee to drill two holes in the stringers, epoxy and then use whatever I end up finding for "grommets". Thanks for reminding me that I need to find them!

O C Diver said:

I expect you will find wood inside the stringers. If so, you would want to soak the wood with epoxy, maybe three coats.

Ted

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Thanks Ted. I was assuming that I would find wood/plywood of some sort. I will soak them with epoxy until I can't get any more on them. Don't like opening up wood to the elements at all. As I have mentioned before, this nice boat has done perfectly well for 32 years without my "fixes". Sort of reluctant to "fix" anything!

If I was closer, I would be happy to drill holes in your boat, I never mind drilling in other peoples boats...

Comodave said:

If I was closer, I would be happy to drill holes in your boat, I never mind drilling in other peoples boats...

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Quite a generous offer Como....very nice of you.....I think I will pass right now...

When you look for drain plug adapters, try your local hydraulics shop. There are a number of straight thread adapters for hydraulic applications. Probably get one to hose barb by cutting off the swaging ring, or one to pipe thread.

Ted

Yes, did exactly that, local hydraulics place. Have it all plumbed (engines that is, not trans or generator). I could run the hoses to the unit without the holes/grommets in the generator stringers but it really would be better to do so. Would allow for smoother runs that are more tucked away.

EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change!


Fumoto® USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves


ValvoMax Oil Drain System


The stahlbus® oil drain valve


Search term "oil change valves". I use DuckDuckGo and not google.

ben2go said:

EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change!


Fumoto® USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves


ValvoMax Oil Drain System


The stahlbus® oil drain valve


Search term "oil change valves". I use DuckDuckGo and not google.

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I have it plumbed without a valve. Hose comes off the fitting and then 90 degrees straight up. Almost to the valve cover and then aft to the Reverso pump. I guess a valve would add another level of security. Not sure if it is worth redoing it?

firstbase said:

I have it plumbed without a valve. Hose comes off the fitting and then 90 degrees straight up. Almost to the valve cover and then aft to the Reverso pump. I guess a valve would add another level of security. Not sure if it is worth redoing it?

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If the line comes lose, will you lose the contents of your oil pan into the bilge, possibly while the engine is running?

On a different note from the oil change system. Duckduckgo looks interesting.

My oil drain hose has a petcock shutoff at the pan. The only time it is open is during a draning of the oil. Otherwise it is shut off.

ben2go said:

If the line comes lose, will you lose the contents of your oil pan into the bilge, possibly while the engine is running?

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You say that as if it's a bad thing. Yes, the oil would dump into the pan.

firstbase said:

You say that like it's a bad thing. Yes, the oil would dump into the pan.

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And your engine may be toast before you can shut it down.

ben2go said:

If the line comes lose, will you lose the contents of your oil pan into the bilge, possibly while the engine is running?

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If the line comes loose on your oil lines to coolers, you'll lose oil too, under pressure.

If you use an industrial oil and temperature rated hose, with a properly installed hose fitting, it's not going to come loose. It's under no pressure, just heat and vibration.

Most new generators are equipped with an oil drain hose and there is no shut off.

My drain hose has been on the Lehman for 20 years. It has not fallen off during that time.

syjos said:

If the line comes loose on your oil lines to coolers, you'll lose oil too, under pressure.

If you use an industrial oil and temperature rated hose, with a properly installed hose fitting, it's not going to come loose. It's under no pressure, just heat and vibration.

Most new generators are equipped with an oil drain hose and there is no shut off.

My drain hose has been on the Lehman for 20 years. It has not fallen off during that time.

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How dare ye curse me with bad oil lines. My boat will have none of that. :lol: No coolers for oil or transmission will be on my boat. Only the exhaust manifold will be keel cooled and dry stacked. I try to plan for the worst.

Hardly a big deal as most diesel boats I have run and even commercial gassers just have a hose from the pan.


No special or regular valves, just a cap.


If it were a a big risk to not use a valve, would think a lot of smart, careful people might be upgrading.

I can appreciate the opportunity to help prevent a future disaster with "overkill" as there are too many others to worry about. Those listed here (oil under pressure to coolers) are good examples. I have held up on plumbing the transmissions for the same type of reason. At a current rate of 150 hours a year how often do I have to change gear fluid? A good argument could be made that I am introducing a risk, additional escape route for the fluid, for little to no reason.