Harlyguynola
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Anyone ever use RidX in toilets to maintain hoses and tanks
Toilet and macerator maintence
- Thread starter Harlyguynola
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caltexflanc
Guru
We use it here at the house for our septic system, no idea how effective it is. Certainly should work on a boat tank.
Personally, I never felt the need to use it on the boat. We had a well ventilated tank that got pumped out regularly. I don't see where it would have any effect on hoses. We used distilled white vinegar for them, well, just because. With a fresh water system, that was probably superfluous.
Personally, I never felt the need to use it on the boat. We had a well ventilated tank that got pumped out regularly. I don't see where it would have any effect on hoses. We used distilled white vinegar for them, well, just because. With a fresh water system, that was probably superfluous.
OP
OP
Harlyguynola
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RidX is cultured to do just one thing: dissolve sludge in septic tanks, which are anaerobic systems into which all kinds of things--gray water, bits of food, dirt from hand washing etc-- along with toilet waste. Holding tanks, otoh, are aerobic systems when managed correctly. RidEx won't do much to prevent odor in them.
As for white vinegar--and btw, use only WHITE vinegar because it's more acidic than cider: it doesn't clean mineral buildup out of hoses, a cupful--MAYBE 2 cups, but any more is just a waste of good vinegar--flushed all the way through the system every week or two PREVENTS sea water mineral buildup in hoses. It should be flushed out with clean FRESH water after about 45 minutes. NEVER leave vinegar sitting in the bowl! When soft rubber--e.g. joker valves--are allowed to sit and soak in vinegar it swells and distorts.
Since you're new at all this, I think you'll find my book useful...see link in my signature...just click on the title, which is a bit misleading...'cuz although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "marine toilets and sanitation systems 101" manual that explains the laws, describes all the types of systems and how they work, and will help you learn how to operate and maintain your system to prevent 99% of problems instead of having to cure 'em, cuz as we all know, prevention is always a lot cheaper and easier than cure! And I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't.
--Peggie
As for white vinegar--and btw, use only WHITE vinegar because it's more acidic than cider: it doesn't clean mineral buildup out of hoses, a cupful--MAYBE 2 cups, but any more is just a waste of good vinegar--flushed all the way through the system every week or two PREVENTS sea water mineral buildup in hoses. It should be flushed out with clean FRESH water after about 45 minutes. NEVER leave vinegar sitting in the bowl! When soft rubber--e.g. joker valves--are allowed to sit and soak in vinegar it swells and distorts.
Since you're new at all this, I think you'll find my book useful...see link in my signature...just click on the title, which is a bit misleading...'cuz although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "marine toilets and sanitation systems 101" manual that explains the laws, describes all the types of systems and how they work, and will help you learn how to operate and maintain your system to prevent 99% of problems instead of having to cure 'em, cuz as we all know, prevention is always a lot cheaper and easier than cure! And I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't.
--Peggie
HopCar
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Peggie, you don’t need to plug your book, we’ll do it for you.
Buy Peggie’s Book!!!
https://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-...ds=peggy+hall&qid=1564954095&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Buy Peggie’s Book!!!
https://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-...ds=peggy+hall&qid=1564954095&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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Agree..
If you are new to boating or just haven't found this yet.... get yourself a copy - I'm confident you will learn something and be better off!
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To clear toilets, hoses, pumps etc, of calcium, minerals and other buildup, uncloric acid is the best.
Dissolve the powder in a gallon of water, pour it into the toilet and down through the hoses. Let it sit overnite, pump the toilet for a second or two to move the acid through the system, let it sit for a while. You may need more than one container of the acid depending on the length of your hose runs.
Flush the system with fresh water and the innards of your toilet, hoses and pump will be completely clear of buildup.
I do this cleaning once a year for maintenance. I also clean a sanitation system with the acid before I work on it so I don't have to deal with the yuck.
Uncloric acid is available from Marine Sanitation in Seattle.
Dissolve the powder in a gallon of water, pour it into the toilet and down through the hoses. Let it sit overnite, pump the toilet for a second or two to move the acid through the system, let it sit for a while. You may need more than one container of the acid depending on the length of your hose runs.
Flush the system with fresh water and the innards of your toilet, hoses and pump will be completely clear of buildup.
I do this cleaning once a year for maintenance. I also clean a sanitation system with the acid before I work on it so I don't have to deal with the yuck.
Uncloric acid is available from Marine Sanitation in Seattle.
ben2go
Guru
Oh gosh yes, Peggie's book. I'm excited to get it next month. I have a book list on Amazon. Every month when I get paid, I order a predetermined dollar amount of books. That amount is usually $50 but I sometimes allow for overages if a book is good. My current line up is of books that I believe will help me complete my boat build. Peggie's is one of those books.
Shhh, don't tell Peggie. I've had a sneak peek and know her book is really good. I didn't get to read the entire book. I look forward to reading it through.
Shhh, don't tell Peggie. I've had a sneak peek and know her book is really good. I didn't get to read the entire book. I look forward to reading it through.
Coalman
Veteran Member
Macerator not draining when flushed. It my pump bad? Possibly a plugged drain hose? Anyone have any ideas how I can fix this problem? We have never pooped in it so I’m thinking the line isn’t plugged.
I'm guessing you're referring to a macerating toilet. It's impellers that pull flush water in and push bowl contents out...the macerator in it is just a little blade similar to a blender blade. If flushes aren't going anywhere, there are three possibilities:
Failed/worn out discharge impeller, a blocked holding tank vent or--if the toilet uses sea water--sea water mineral buildup in the toilet discharge line that's reduced the diameter enough to block it.
All tank vents have two main functions: to provide an escape for air displaced by incoming contents and provide a source of air to replace contents as they're pulled out. When air displaced by incoming waste cannot escape out the vent the tank becomes pressurized, creating increasing back pressure that prevents the toilet from flushing.
Without a source of air to replace contents as they're being sucked out of the tank, the pump will pull a vacuum that'll prevent it from pulling out more than a gallon or two. A particularly strong pumpout can even implode a tank.
When air displaced by incoming waste cannot escape out the vent the tank becomes pressurized, creating increasing back pressure that prevents the toilet from flushing.
The two most common locations for a vent blockage are the vent thru-hull and the other end of the vent line--that end of the hose and the vent fitting on the tank (Less likely at the tank if solids are never flushed). Start by cleaning out the thru-hull...use a screwdriver blade, ice pick--whatever works. If that doesn't result in a spew out the vent, you'll need to relieve the pressure before removing the vent line from the tank to clean them out...so open the deck pumpout fitting VERY CAREFULLY with a hose at the ready. Be sure you're UPwind of it! Scrape out that end of the vent line and the vent fitting on the tank...replace the vent line.
If there's a filter in the vent line, remove it...once a filter gets wet--which can happen when a tank is overfilled or even due to heeling--the charcoal swells and blocks the vent.
Replacing the "vent" thru-hull with an open bulkhead or "mushroom" thru-hull will let you prevent future blockages 'cuz you can put a hose nozzle against it and backflush the vent line every time you wash the boat.
If clearing the tank vent doesn't solve the problem, remove the toilet discharge line from the pump and check for a buildup. We'll tell you what to do to cure that if necessary.
--Peggie
Failed/worn out discharge impeller, a blocked holding tank vent or--if the toilet uses sea water--sea water mineral buildup in the toilet discharge line that's reduced the diameter enough to block it.
All tank vents have two main functions: to provide an escape for air displaced by incoming contents and provide a source of air to replace contents as they're pulled out. When air displaced by incoming waste cannot escape out the vent the tank becomes pressurized, creating increasing back pressure that prevents the toilet from flushing.
Without a source of air to replace contents as they're being sucked out of the tank, the pump will pull a vacuum that'll prevent it from pulling out more than a gallon or two. A particularly strong pumpout can even implode a tank.
When air displaced by incoming waste cannot escape out the vent the tank becomes pressurized, creating increasing back pressure that prevents the toilet from flushing.
The two most common locations for a vent blockage are the vent thru-hull and the other end of the vent line--that end of the hose and the vent fitting on the tank (Less likely at the tank if solids are never flushed). Start by cleaning out the thru-hull...use a screwdriver blade, ice pick--whatever works. If that doesn't result in a spew out the vent, you'll need to relieve the pressure before removing the vent line from the tank to clean them out...so open the deck pumpout fitting VERY CAREFULLY with a hose at the ready. Be sure you're UPwind of it! Scrape out that end of the vent line and the vent fitting on the tank...replace the vent line.
If there's a filter in the vent line, remove it...once a filter gets wet--which can happen when a tank is overfilled or even due to heeling--the charcoal swells and blocks the vent.
Replacing the "vent" thru-hull with an open bulkhead or "mushroom" thru-hull will let you prevent future blockages 'cuz you can put a hose nozzle against it and backflush the vent line every time you wash the boat.
If clearing the tank vent doesn't solve the problem, remove the toilet discharge line from the pump and check for a buildup. We'll tell you what to do to cure that if necessary.
--Peggie
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Ken E.
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My macerator stopped pumping last summer. Inspected it and its impeller had vanes missing. It was 10 years old. I had a spare so no huge deal other than a pretty gross job changing it.
ranger58sb
Guru
One possibility might be uric acid crystal build-up in the discharge line that runs from toilet to holding tank.
If so, Trac's product called Sew Clean may work to clear that up for you. We had that problem once, and SC cleared it easily/quickly.
-Chris
Allen Arin
Member
The chemical is harmless to the pipes, so too much will not hurt anything. ... The enzyme is totally safe for pipes and fixtures and actually breaks down the oils, solids, and wastes inside the plumbing pipes, safely and inexpensively. Rid-X does NOT clear up existing clogs.
Coalman
Veteran Member
Thanks again Peggie
Thanks again for your great advise as always. I took the easy way out of fixing macerator toilets not draining...I had service person at GTB marina change out motor assembly then I did nearly the dumbest thing anyone has ever done, I took the hose off between the toilet and the black water tank (after pump out).
The 12’ hose had several section of longish calcification blockages which I promptly pored white acid in both ends of the hose, then waited...afterwards I took a small plumbers wire fish thing and poked, rotated, banged around a bit, bent hose back and forth until the blockage came out, mostly. Not sure why I didn’t by a new discharge hose...I can be so thick at times ?.
Now I’m on to the preventative maintenance program as you have disscribbed.
Cheers Peggie
Thanks again for your great advise as always. I took the easy way out of fixing macerator toilets not draining...I had service person at GTB marina change out motor assembly then I did nearly the dumbest thing anyone has ever done, I took the hose off between the toilet and the black water tank (after pump out).
The 12’ hose had several section of longish calcification blockages which I promptly pored white acid in both ends of the hose, then waited...afterwards I took a small plumbers wire fish thing and poked, rotated, banged around a bit, bent hose back and forth until the blockage came out, mostly. Not sure why I didn’t by a new discharge hose...I can be so thick at times ?.
Now I’m on to the preventative maintenance program as you have disscribbed.
Cheers Peggie
Coalman
Veteran Member
Hello all, coalman here with another electric aft head issue. I have a Jabsco 37010 electric toilet in the aft head, about 10 ft from the holding tank. After an 8-10” riser loop from the toilet the discharge hose runs slightly down hill to the top of waste tank. Our problem is we constantly have a massively strong smell in that head, enough said you know the smell. I have installed a new joker and removed and cleared out vent line. We flush both forward and aft heads a couple of time after pump out to flush tank (?). We are currently in saltwater so that is used for flush. What happens after flush is what concerns me. The bowl empty’s out and gives a few gurgling noises and then stays dry and does not hold water. Well after that comes, and stays around, the smell from hell. Before I see my wife packing her bags for home, I’d like to fix the problem. Does anyone have a fix for this? Please.
Comodave
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Have you tried just adding a bit of water into the head after you flush it and it finishes gurgling? Use a cup and pour some water in. Maybe try that and see what happens. We had a smell problem in a previous boat due to a bad joker valve but you said that you have replaced it.
sunchaser
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Yes. During our extended summer of cruising we compared 3 products. Our system is a large holding tank and two VF toilets. We flush with lots fresh water and have not noticed any pipe build ups. Our measuring criteria is odor around the bilge area where the holding tank is located and exterior smell when dumping the holding tank.
Our bench mark product which works great is NoFlex. Then we used a product called Tri Zyme which looks similar to RidEx. TZ did very well, but not quite as good as NF. RidEx was a poor third but better than other products we've used over the years.
When on the boat we dump the tank every week or so. When off the boat for prolonged periods we flush the tank with water and add a double dose of NF. Bottom line, products are only part of the answer for most of us and don't always cover other issues or practices. Heed Peggie's advice and you'll do well, remembering each vessel has its own waste system oddities.
Another vote for NoFlex or sodium percarbonate.
Flushing best done via deck fitting for pumping out as it enters /exits at bottom so better to stir any solids. toilet flush does a good job of flushing lines.
Salt water intake will pick up critters and bits of vegetation that sit in lines snd toilet rim and decay.anf smell especially if left for long period. Aside from switching to fresh water flush not much you can do, AFAIK other than a flush as soon as you get aboard to get rid of the rotten and smelly stuff.
Flushing best done via deck fitting for pumping out as it enters /exits at bottom so better to stir any solids. toilet flush does a good job of flushing lines.
Salt water intake will pick up critters and bits of vegetation that sit in lines snd toilet rim and decay.anf smell especially if left for long period. Aside from switching to fresh water flush not much you can do, AFAIK other than a flush as soon as you get aboard to get rid of the rotten and smelly stuff.
The Jabsco 37010 isn't designed to bring in water and hold it...what comes into the bowl goes out. The gurgling and burping is most likely the result of sea water mineral buildup in the toilet discharge line that's reduced the diameter enough to create back pressure. And there's good chance that the buildup also includes waste and TP.
The cure: a 15% solution of muriatic acid (available from any hardware store). Read and FOLLOW directions for safe handling!! Flush enough to fill the hose to the tank...wait 45-60 minutes, follow with plenty of clean FRESH water. Depending on how bad the buildup is, it make take multiple applications.
The source of your odor is dead and decaying sea water micro (and not so micro) animal and/or veggie organisms trapped in the toilet INTAKE line, pump and/or channel in the rim of the bowl. Nothing poured into the bowl will recirculate through the intake..at least it shouldn't!
The cure: a full bucket of clean FRESH water to which you've added a quart of distilled white vinegar. Remove the intake line from the thru-hull (close the seacock first!!), stick into the bucket and flush the whole bucketful all the way to the holding tank.
Better yet, replace both hoses.
PREVENTION
Intake odor: Install a 3/4" y-valve and a couple of feet of 3/4" hose in the head intake line (which is also 3/4" btw). Keep a gallon milk jug handy to fill with clean FRESH water to flush through the head daily to rinse out the system.
Mineral buildup in toilet discharge line: a cupful--no more than 2--of undiluted distilled white vinegar flushed all the way to the holding tank once a week. Follow after an hour with clean fresh water. NEVER LEAVE VINEGAR SITTING IN THE BOWL! Reason: when soft rubber (your joker valve) is allowed to sit and soak in vinegar, it swells and distorts.
After all this...if it were my boat I'd not only replace the hoses (Raritan SaniFlex is the only one I recommend any more), I'd replace the toilet with one designed to use onboard pressurized fresh water. Least expensive way to do that? check this out: Jabsco 37055 Quiet-Flush Pressurized Fresh Water Conversion Kit
--Peggie
The cure: a 15% solution of muriatic acid (available from any hardware store). Read and FOLLOW directions for safe handling!! Flush enough to fill the hose to the tank...wait 45-60 minutes, follow with plenty of clean FRESH water. Depending on how bad the buildup is, it make take multiple applications.
The source of your odor is dead and decaying sea water micro (and not so micro) animal and/or veggie organisms trapped in the toilet INTAKE line, pump and/or channel in the rim of the bowl. Nothing poured into the bowl will recirculate through the intake..at least it shouldn't!
The cure: a full bucket of clean FRESH water to which you've added a quart of distilled white vinegar. Remove the intake line from the thru-hull (close the seacock first!!), stick into the bucket and flush the whole bucketful all the way to the holding tank.
Better yet, replace both hoses.
PREVENTION
Intake odor: Install a 3/4" y-valve and a couple of feet of 3/4" hose in the head intake line (which is also 3/4" btw). Keep a gallon milk jug handy to fill with clean FRESH water to flush through the head daily to rinse out the system.
Mineral buildup in toilet discharge line: a cupful--no more than 2--of undiluted distilled white vinegar flushed all the way to the holding tank once a week. Follow after an hour with clean fresh water. NEVER LEAVE VINEGAR SITTING IN THE BOWL! Reason: when soft rubber (your joker valve) is allowed to sit and soak in vinegar, it swells and distorts.
After all this...if it were my boat I'd not only replace the hoses (Raritan SaniFlex is the only one I recommend any more), I'd replace the toilet with one designed to use onboard pressurized fresh water. Least expensive way to do that? check this out: Jabsco 37055 Quiet-Flush Pressurized Fresh Water Conversion Kit
--Peggie
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