Prop nut -- unusual?

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AZ2Loop

Senior Member
Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
304
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Sea-N-Stars
Vessel Make
1990 49' Albin
Among a thousand other projects, while our boat is out of the water I was planning on pulling the props off to do a general inspection/cleaning/etc. to get familiar with how they come off and go on. Our previous boats were stern drives, so this is new to me. In passing, a guy at the yard commented on the unusual prop nuts on our trawler. I don't know if these are unusual or not, but his comment made me wonder. Before I start pulling these apart, is this an unusual setup? Am I tearing into/pulling apart anything that might be difficult to get back together? Here is a picture of one of our props. They are 24" props, and I do not yet know the pitch. Boat is a 1990 49' Albin with twin 250 Cummins 6BTA's, 2" shafts, Velvet Drive transmissions. In our short sea time so far there are no known issues or vibrations with the props. I just like to pull things apart, clean up, and get familiar with how they go together for peace of mind. It seems like a good time to get familiar with this "business end" of our new (to us) boat. I would think this is a wise move to inspect now and gain an understanding of how this goes together vs learning under less than ideal circumstances while in the water. Am I just opening a can of worms? Seems like it should be simple.... but I am open to advice. Thanks for any thoughts.
 

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It’s a zinc.

Take the cap screw out/off and the nuts holding the prop on will be exposed.
 
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I can’t really tell by the photos but it looks like the forward nut may only have 2 flats on it??? Nothing wrong with taking them off to check things out. I had to make a prop puller to get mine off last fall. I found that my starboard shart is right hand thread and the port shaft is left hand thread. I took the props and had them scanned, they were out quite a bit so I had them rebuilt and took out 1/2” of pitch. I did have some vibration at higher RPMs, now the vibrations are gone.
 
Good catch Willy, now that you mentioned anodes, I can see what you mean.
 
You are going to need a prop puller and large wrench. These don’t just slide off like I/O props. The yard may have one to borrow or pull them at a cost. I recommend having the yard pull them while you watch the first time.
 
It is NOT a zinc or a cover, it is a solid brass nut. I have the same prop nut on my boat and have removed it a few times. There is nothing weird or complicated about it. Remove the center bolt which acts as a lock and unscrew the giant nut. The center lock bolt should have a locking "washer" on it, but since they're SS and have to be bent, they only last maybe 4-6 times. Fortunately, its easy to make a new one with a hacksaw and a piece of stainless.


See attached pictures.



Ken
 

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Among a thousand other projects, while our boat is out of the water I was planning on pulling the props off to do a general inspection/cleaning/etc. to get familiar with how they come off and go on. Our previous boats were stern drives, so this is new to me. In passing, a guy at the yard commented on the unusual prop nuts on our trawler. I don't know if these are unusual or not, but his comment made me wonder. Before I start pulling these apart, is this an unusual setup? Am I tearing into/pulling apart anything that might be difficult to get back together? Here is a picture of one of our props. They are 24" props, and I do not yet know the pitch. Boat is a 1990 49' Albin with twin 250 Cummins 6BTA's, 2" shafts, Velvet Drive transmissions. In our short sea time so far there are no known issues or vibrations with the props. I just like to pull things apart, clean up, and get familiar with how they go together for peace of mind. It seems like a good time to get familiar with this "business end" of our new (to us) boat. I would think this is a wise move to inspect now and gain an understanding of how this goes together vs learning under less than ideal circumstances while in the water. Am I just opening a can of worms? Seems like it should be simple.... but I am open to advice. Thanks for any thoughts.


As has been stated, you WILL need a prop puller. Unlike stern drives, props on shafts like this are installed on tapers which make the props fit the shafts very tightly. So the prop will not slide off when you take off the nut - if it does, you have a serious problem. You can borrow, buy or make a prop puller.

Below is a picture of the prop puller I made. They are easy to make and work great.


edit - I would not pull the props off for no reason. With the right tools they are easy enough to remove, but re-installing them requires proper cleaning of the tapers, keys and keyways involved.


I WOULD make and install proper lock washers onto the center lock nuts.


Ken
 

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That looks like what I made as a prop puller. Simple and it keeps teh prop on when it pops loose.
 
It is NOT a zinc or a cover, it is a solid brass nut. I have the same prop nut on my boat and have removed it a few times. There is nothing weird or complicated about it. Remove the center bolt which acts as a lock and unscrew the giant nut. The center lock bolt should have a locking "washer" on it, but since they're SS and have to be bent, they only last maybe 4-6 times. Fortunately, its easy to make a new one with a hacksaw and a piece of stainless.


See attached pictures.



Ken

I've never seen one. I suppose this one avoids the entire heavy nut/jam nut argument! :thumb:
 
Sorry, I said the nut was Brass, but its bronze.
 
At first I thought it was a zinc like my setup. Mine has a brass prop nut that looks sort of like a castle nut, except the fingers of the "castle" form a bucket that extends over the end of the shaft. The very back end of the nut (not the shaft) has a threaded hole for a bolt to hold the zinc on (assembled, it looks like the pics above). A cotter pin through the shaft locks the castle portion of the nut from loosening on the shaft (before installing the zinc).


I don't really like the design that much, as there is very little room to fit the cotter pin under the zinc. Also, as the zinc corrodes the bolt would loosen, so an ample amount of thread locker is required. At least there's no jam nut.


Is this a common set up?


Todd
 
As has been stated, you WILL need a prop puller. Unlike stern drives, props on shafts like this are installed on tapers which make the props fit the shafts very tightly. So the prop will not slide off when you take off the nut - if it does, you have a serious problem. You can borrow, buy or make a prop puller.

Below is a picture of the prop puller I made. They are easy to make and work great.


edit - I would not pull the props off for no reason. With the right tools they are easy enough to remove, but re-installing them requires proper cleaning of the tapers, keys and keyways involved.


I WOULD make and install proper lock washers onto the center lock nuts.


Ken


FWIW -



I have a prop puller similar to the above and could not budge my props - 22x22 4 blade nibral - 1 1/2" shaft. So I inserted a 10 ton hydaulic ram between the plate and shaft. That popped them off.
 
I made one as shown in the photo. I have no idea how long the props had been in place. I tightened the bolts a much as I could and my starboard prop would not budge. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and tried it again. It let loose with a bang that sounded like a gunshot. The port prop came off quietly and relatively easy compared to the starboard.
 
Well, the plates are 1/2" steel and there is also a filler for the slot in the rear plate. The screws are 1/2" grade 8 fine thread - the nuts and washers are also grade 8. If tightened quite tight, the clamping force would be about 15000 lbs each. With this setup, all I need is a standard hand wrench to pop off the prop.
 
At first I thought it was a zinc like my setup. Mine has a brass prop nut that looks sort of like a castle nut, except the fingers of the "castle" form a bucket that extends over the end of the shaft. The very back end of the nut (not the shaft) has a threaded hole for a bolt to hold the zinc on (assembled, it looks like the pics above). A cotter pin through the shaft locks the castle portion of the nut from loosening on the shaft (before installing the zinc).


I don't really like the design that much, as there is very little room to fit the cotter pin under the zinc. Also, as the zinc corrodes the bolt would loosen, so an ample amount of thread locker is required. At least there's no jam nut.


Is this a common set up?


Todd

I couldn't say, but I now know of 2 Albins with it.
 
I made one as shown in the photo. I have no idea how long the props had been in place. I tightened the bolts a much as I could and my starboard prop would not budge. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and tried it again. It let loose with a bang that sounded like a gunshot. The port prop came off quietly and relatively easy compared to the starboard.

Yes! I had my props pulled by a mechanic. It took him a couple of hours to get them off and he was using a really big prop puller. He had me stand back and he wore ear protection. When it did release I was glad I stood back. It sounded just like a really loud gunshot. If nothing is wrong leave it alone.
 
Thank you all for your responses. This is such a great forum. I appreciate all of the advice, photos, information, etc. I'll let you know if I get into it end up tearing anything up! KChace, I really appreciate the tip on the lock washer. I'll see if I can fabricate something like that. So much to do!
 
Thank you all for your responses. This is such a great forum. I appreciate all of the advice, photos, information, etc. I'll let you know if I get into it end up tearing anything up! KChace, I really appreciate the tip on the lock washer. I'll see if I can fabricate something like that. So much to do!


Yeah its really easy. All you need is a 2" square of stainless sheet metal. Put it in a vise, drill a 3/8" hole in the middle then cut squares out of the four corners so that you end up with a little cross with a hole in the middle.


Ken
 
Well, the plates are 1/2" steel and there is also a filler for the slot in the rear plate. The screws are 1/2" grade 8 fine thread - the nuts and washers are also grade 8. If tightened quite tight, the clamping force would be about 15000 lbs each. With this setup, all I need is a standard hand wrench to pop off the prop.

Have never done this using a prop puller home made or otherwise so excuse my newb question...when you are tightening the 4 bolts to remove the prop, generally speaking how much do you turn each nut at a time? 1/2 turn, full turn? Just go by feel or tightness? Know it would depend somewhat on the number of threads for the bolts. Imagine that putting too much pressure on one corner alone is not a good thing.
 
Algonac prop puller. Having used various styles myself. If u ever need to do this underwater , u will b glad.
Some 4 bladed props make using the 4 rod puller difficult. Depends on the blade interference at the hub.
 
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Have never done this using a prop puller home made or otherwise so excuse my newb question...when you are tightening the 4 bolts to remove the prop, generally speaking how much do you turn each nut at a time? 1/2 turn, full turn? Just go by feel or tightness? Know it would depend somewhat on the number of threads for the bolts. Imagine that putting too much pressure on one corner alone is not a good thing.

You just keep going around snugging them up and try to keep it even.

Ken
 
Here is a photo of the prop puller I made. It is for a 4 blade prop. Put the plate with the slot forward of the prop and the solid plate on the end of the prop shaft. Insert the 4 bolts and tighten up securely. I just work my way kitty corner torqueing them as tight as I can and then wait a bit and go again. One of my props came off with a bang and the other with a whimper. The puller holds the prop on when they pop off so it doesn’t drop to the ground. My shafts are 2” so the slot is about 2 1/8”.
 

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This is apparently a common nut arrangement on Albins. My 1988 model 43 has the exact same nut. I aggree that you need to make the lockers for the bolt. I've made several over the years out of a stainless fender washer.
 
Can you replace the unusual nut with the regular double nuts or do you have to stay the OEM nut? Just wondering if the nut were to get damaged or float to the bottom during an in the water prop change are the OEM nuts available?
 
Comodave, that's a good question, and one I've asked myself a few times. While I've had new shafts made a couple of times, I've never remembered to ask the machine shop that question. Not sure what the thread type is.
 
I was just wondering. It would be my luck to have a diver change my prop and drop the nut and no replacement to be had anywhere. My starboard prop had right hand threads and my port has left hand threads. I am going to look for some spare nuts to have aboard just in case...
 
Here is a photo of the prop puller I made. It is for a 4 blade prop. Put the plate with the slot forward of the prop and the solid plate on the end of the prop shaft. Insert the 4 bolts and tighten up securely. I just work my way kitty corner torqueing them as tight as I can and then wait a bit and go again. One of my props came off with a bang and the other with a whimper. The puller holds the prop on when they pop off so it doesn’t drop to the ground. My shafts are 2” so the slot is about 2 1/8”.



Exactly like the one I made!

Rob
 
Can you replace the unusual nut with the regular double nuts or do you have to stay the OEM nut? Just wondering if the nut were to get damaged or float to the bottom during an in the water prop change are the OEM nuts available?


If the thread type can be matched you would only need to have the end of the shaft drilled for the cotter pin. Certainly something that could be done by hand out of the water.


Ken
 
Is there enough threads to get 2 nuts on? It might make it easier to get service in remote areas where these unusual nuts may not be available, or just carry some spares.
 
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