Farrell Trawler Rebuild Project

O C Diver said:

See how your vents do. The funnels force more air in which might make a big difference in your boat. Might also be easy to reconfigure your air box on the inside to incorporate a water trap that gravity drains through the back bulkhead next to the pilothouse door.

Ted

Click to expand...

Great minds think alike! The air box is a water trap, and is self draining, and there is hole to the exterior thru the bulkhead.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dorade_box

Once installed, you can direct the funnel any direction you want and take the funnel off and install the plate

Looks great. For additional ventilation you might put a hatch in the overhead of the pilot house.

Perhaps I wasn't entirely clear, but my air box does function like a Dorade box.

Here is the hole where the water can drain out.


Finished this part, whatever its called.


Darth Vader helmet inspired.....


Bow vents to the bilge.


Vent into pilot house, starboard side.


If the cabin venting (which is more than what was before) isn't sufficient, I can add more. Even the hottest summer days in the Prince Rupert area aren't all that hot, when on the ocean.

PNW Drifter said:

Great minds think alike! The air box is a water trap, and is self draining, and there is hole to the exterior thru the bulkhead.

Click to expand...

A well thought out plan!. The funnels on my boat unscrew and have screw in caps if that helps.

Ted

Non marine 1 gauge cable original from the old version of the boat. Probably 30 years in the bilge. The end was sealed with electrical tape. Surprisingly, the end is only slightly discoloured and in the middle the copper is still fairly bright.


But I'm using marine grade tinned (ouch$$$). Properly crimped (don't have the heat shrink on it yet) 4/0 cable which will be the backbone from the batteries to the pilothouse.


Tools for Fools part 2 - hydraulic crimper and ratcheting cutter for the big cable.


Tools for Fools part 3 - ratcheting crimper for the smaller crimps.



Using a laser level to ensure the new hydraulic steering cylinder is level.



Bracket going in.



Cylinder in place. Tiller arm had two holes. The one previously used was out of round and had a sloppy fit, so i used the other hole.

Mock up of main anchor line cleat attachment. 3 layers of 3/4" Joubert Okume. I think I'll use a slightly thinner backing plate. A little overkill maybe?



using a wire wheel to "brush" the aluminum, so it matches the (outside of) boat better.



Side cleat attached. Those just have 2 layers of 3/4"

Mock up #1


Mock up #2 - decided I didn't like silver with natural binding


Using the innegra/basalt fabric,


This will be it for now. Might revisit/revise later.


Getting closer but so much more to do yet.......

Electrical progress - Effort made to be ABYC compliant

At the back of the boat there is a battery selector that switches between the "marine starting/running" bank and the "RV/house" bank.

The red selector in the pilot house is so I can turn the power off and do wiring, and I will have two banks of circuits that I can switch between, or have both on.

Thick red is the supply, beside that is the engine cranking, and going up are the windlass, bank 1 and bank 2.


grounding bus, windlass relay, windlass breaker, grounding lug, big red switch


Ratcheting crimper works great.


heat shrink for good measure.




Postive busses with covers.

Couple of observations:
Anywhere you go through a floor or bulkhead, the cable should have some kind of shield to keep it from rubbing the cable cover. A short length of rubber or vinyl hose would be a good start. You could even split the hose and add it after installation. Not liking the cable unsupported between the 2 bulkheads, especially without rub protection in the holes. Seems like that cable will be bouncing up and down in rough weather. Hate to see the cable insulation get abraded and moisture get inside.

I'm curious where you're fusing is going to be on the wires attached to the positive busses. Generally when you step down in wire size, there is a fuse to protect the smaller gauge wire from the capacity of the larger cable size.

I'm curious what the cable run length is from the battery to the switch to the engine.

Just trying to be a PIA.

Ted

Greetings,
Mr. PNW. Also a couple of observations...


Main anchor cleat attachment-overkill? Not at all. Bigger is better IMO.


When you're using spade connectors you might consider a fully shielded type. I've used the M/F's for light fixtures that may have to be removed. A dab of dielectric grease keeps them water resistant.





Where a light fixture is polarity sensitive (LED's) I've staggered the connections.



Feed: +'ve = male/ Fixture: -'ve = male

Feed: -'ve = female/ Fixture: +'ve = female


I've also taken to using liquid electrical tape instead of heat shrink for some applications. More water tight IMO but hellish messy.

O C Diver said:

Couple of observations:

Just trying to be a PIA.

Ted

Click to expand...

Hi Ted, I appreciate that you acknowledge that commenting on someone else's wiring could result in psychological trauma and/or fits of rage.

I do have wiring loom that I will be cutting into small sections for the bulkheads. This would be an ABYC requirement. ABYC requires that cables need to be supported every 18". I'll do that too, once I'm satisfied that I don't need to change the cable locations.

I'm wiring as I go, taking pictures as I go. Looms and cable ties come at the end.

To make this more fun and educational for everyone, I'm asking that anyone commenting on the wiring please quote ABYC regulations (where applicable). For example, what does ABYC say for maximum cable run length from battery to starter motor? I know the answer but I'm not giving it away!

What does ABYC say for fuse location? I believe I'm in compliance thus far, but please quote ABYC to prove me noncompliant!

I do appreciate all the observations and comments. I want my wiring to be safe.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. PNW. Also a couple of observations...


Main anchor cleat attachment-overkill? Not at all. Bigger is better IMO.


When you're using spade connectors you might consider a fully shielded type. I've used the M/F's for light fixtures that may have to be removed. A dab of dielectric grease keeps them water resistant.

Where a light fixture is polarity sensitive (LED's) I've staggered the connections.



Feed: +'ve = male/ Fixture: -'ve = male

Feed: -'ve = female/ Fixture: +'ve = female


I've also taken to using liquid electrical tape instead of heat shrink for some applications. More water tight IMO but hellish messy.

Click to expand...

I couldn't find fully shielded spade connectors in my small town. Good point tho.

I like your staggered connection idea. Where I can, I'm trying to keep exposed positive and negative away from each other.

When wiring is completed, I will go back and clean/dielectric grease all the connections. I make changes as I go, because I'm not sure of the routing, and if I put grease now, and then change, the grease starts picking up dust etc. So I'm leaving that to the end when I'm satisfied the routing won't change.

Greetings,
Mr. PNW. "I couldn't find fully shielded spade connectors in my small town."


Canadian Tire on Hwy 16 West...aisle 9.


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...nect-bulk-pack-250-in-50-pk-0206973p.html#srp

If I can dare my 2 cents about battery cables, last year I made some too using the same tools. I used liquid tape on the limit withe crimped end and the wire then electric tape around it so to seal it ( or heat shrink in place of tape).

L

PNW Drifter said:

To make this more fun and educational for everyone, I'm asking that anyone commenting on the wiring please quote ABYC regulations (where applicable). For example, what does ABYC say for maximum cable run length from battery to starter motor? I know the answer but I'm not giving it away!

What does ABYC say for fuse location? I believe I'm in compliance thus far, but please quote ABYC to prove me noncompliant!

I do appreciate all the observations and comments. I want my wiring to be safe.

Click to expand...

Best not to confuse me with someone who follows ABYC. Simply, I feel they set arbitrary standards to suit their members, in many cases not stringent enough. When it comes to battery cables to engine, IMO, 3' is getting really long.

Ted

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. PNW. "I couldn't find fully shielded spade connectors in my small town."


Canadian Tire on Hwy 16 West...aisle 9.


https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...nect-bulk-pack-250-in-50-pk-0206973p.html#srp

Click to expand...

That's hilarious

Got some spare time on your hands today?

*Thanks for the tip...I'm going there this weekend

MurrayM said:

That's hilarious

Got some spare time on your hands today?

*Thanks for the tip...I'm going there this weekend

Click to expand...

Might want to call ahead and reserve designated amount.

RT Firefly said:

Canadian Tire on Hwy 16 West...aisle 9.

Click to expand...

This is the kind of support that I've come to expect from members of TF.

EDIT: I only needed 6, so I didn't consider the larger package.

O C Diver said:

I feel they set arbitrary standards to suit their members, in many cases not stringent enough. When it comes to battery cables to engine, IMO, 3' is getting really long.

Ted

Click to expand...

Ok, you don't have to quote ABYC!

I agree about ABYC being arbitrary in many cases, sometimes overkill, and sometimes curious, when you can have an unlimited length, provided it goes to the engine cranking motor.

Whats also interesting is that any "battery relocation kit" I've ever seen has never included a main fuse or breaker.

I couldn't believe the ABYC standard either, and bought a 750amp ANL fuse and holder. I returned it when I realized I didn't want anything that could fail between my battery and my starter.

In terms of (any) cable length, its about voltage drop - the more the current, the more the drop, and thus longer cables require thicker gauge. I'm using 4/0 (largest that I could find) as my main run (~20 feet), and if I draw 500 amps, I'll have less than 10% drop. The engine starter might draw more than 500 for a split second at start up, but should be less after a second, and still lower when the starter is turning continuously.

PNW Drifter said:

I like your staggered connection idea. Where I can, I'm trying to keep exposed positive and negative away from each other.

Click to expand...

Exposed positive touches metal = big spark.

I buy spade connectors on Amazon. Most female are shielded. Male can be bare, so I use the female as feed pos.
Probably simpler to buy all shielded but I have a bagful of unshielded males.

I generally cut pos an inch or so shorter than neg. Crimped conn have a habit of pulling out when you tug on them and offset cut prevents a potential short.

I always give each crimp connection a good heavy pull after crimping it. A good crimp should not pull out. If it is going to pull out I want it to do so while I am still working on it.

SoWhat said:

Most female are shielded, so I use the female as feed pos. I generally cut pos an inch or so shorter than neg. Crimped conn have a habit of pulling out when you tug on them and offset cut prevents a potential short.

Click to expand...

Comodave said:

I always give each crimp connection a good heavy pull after crimping it. A good crimp should not pull out. If it is going to pull out I want it to do so while I am still working on it.

Click to expand...

This is good advice.

So back to posting pictures of progress... and happy 4th of July weekend! And belated happy Canada day too. I have been slowing down, on the account of my workshop getting hotter (more tiring to work inside), and the rather nice outside weather we are having. And some other commitments......

Rear controls. Previous installation for transmission was not best practice (bizarre unadjustable push/pull instead of parallel), and the previous owner drilled extra holes beyond the normal adjustment range slots because they didn't do it properly. It worked for them, but when I reinstalled their way, I couldn't get reverse. Argh.... more time to get it set up correctly...... as per Morse recommendation.


Cabinetry for rear station. Down rigger is going in.


Starboard battery boxes.



Port battery boxes. Vents on both sides vent the entire boat, mini lazarette storage, and battery boxes. It's blower hose, and may need to have protection from fish hooks, wayward halibut, and things......


Grounding. Grounding the propshaft supports, fuel fills, and rudder stanchion.


Close up. Cleaned up the brass (or is it bronze?) for good connection.



Close up of rear helm.


Copper helm pipe and Racor in the port helm bench.



Air scoop intake for engine box. I realize the aluminum flex pipe doesn't quite match the boat, but I'll figure out more pleasing aesthetics later. Right now its about venting, venting, and venting.
I've spent so much time building vents that I feel I've built a large vented enclosure that happens to float and contain a propulsion system.



Feeding that cold air straight to the air intake filter.

Sliding door bottom groove. Its adjustable, and replaceable if anything rots or wears out without violating the main house structure in any future repair. This door slides very nicely with a good solid feel. Very happy with how it turned out.



Quite possibly the ugliest part of the boat. Here is the $200 chinese made diesel heater. Works great, but the installation instructions weren't the best.



Heater air intake. Probably the second ugliest part - will come up with something nicer looking later. I decided to pull from inside, for now, but may add an option to choose inside vs outside.



Helm station. I'm making it up as I go along (just like the whole entire project!). This could be subject to change at some later date.


Boat builder picture.


Anchor rode locker, and two bilge pumps going in. A big and a small (which is hiding behind the big one) for the front, and another good sized one will be at the back.


I'm really wanting to get it into the water for early August. The clock is ticking. Gotta get on it!

impressive amount of work you have done in a short time. Looks great

Really digging the detail work. If you have a small porthole or just bump open a window opposite of that type heater will help air circulate through the boat a bit better. Combustion air needs to come from outside the boat and not thru the bilge.

Bulge pump testing. Those two passed. My small automatic didn’t, probably gummed up and from sitting too long. Impeller was not spinning freely.



Backing for the sea-cocks. I’m cutting new ones. The old ones weren’t well cut, especially where it matters (inside hole), so here is an opportunity (again) to do it right compared to how it was before.



One of the two rear bilge vents.



Port side LED nav light.


Used panorama mode to try to capture what the whole boat looks like. It’s difficult because I can’t get enough distance (inside a workshop) to get a proper perspective shot.

Radar mast. I cut the pieces from aluminum recycled from the boats old fuel tank and rails. $80 Canadian to get it welded. Before you say that the mast doesn’t look strong enough, consider that my boat is slow, and the radar only weighs 12.5 lbs (average household cat is 11lbs.). Post is 20”. Surely that can hold a cat !

I could turn it into a tripod by adding a couple bolt on struts, if I wanted to put more/heavier stuff on it.


Mock up. Only the radar, anchor light, and maybe a GPS and SiriusXM satellite antenna too. My 8’ VHF antenna will mount on a ratchet in a different location


Radar reflector will mount separately on the same base plate. Sharp corners will be rounded off.

This mast will need to be removed when storing the boat so the design reflects that functionality by keeping it small, light, and simple.

Arm chair critic here.

The radar mount should work. Would have preferred 2" or 3" pipe between the first and 2nd plates and 3/4" between the 2nd and 3rd. If you ever have need for marine grade aluminum pipe, in the USA, electrical aluminum conduit (pipe) is marine alloy, sold in 10' lengths with common sizes 3/4", 1", 1.5", 2", 3", 4".

Ted

Thanks Ted, certainly the materials felt strong in my hands when cutting the pieces. The OD of the first upright is 1.9".

In any case, I sat on it (and shifted my weight around a little) and I'm 180lbs. Base plate flexed a bit, but that will be bolted down. Strong enough, I'm thinking, but in terms of looks....it just looks skinny. I'll address it sooner, if I think its too weak (will check again after installing), and later if I just want to change/modify for the sake of looks alone. In the boating world, looks are important too. Then again, so is weight and weight distribution. And nothing gained from something being stronger than it needs to be.

Seacock Saga - aka the joy of seacocks

My backing plates. They can also help match the seacock surface to the boat if the boat surface is uneven.



Perfectly round, sized, and centered. Note that the seacock bolt holes don’t triangulate to the geometric center of the valve. I had to mark the orientation. Don’t assume, part one.



Here’s the big new one, and the big old one. I’m replacing the Buck Algonquin valves with the exact same kind, so all the holes in the boat will line up perfectly, right?



But they don’t.



A little disappointing to have the extra holes, but it’s not the end of the world. Don’t assume, part 2.



Uh-oh, looks like I need a special tool....



Or, a spare socket, and some time with a die grinder.



Fits. Part one.



Fits. Parts two



Finally, the first one is in. This was the waste discharge. Not sure if I’m going to use it. 3 more to go, a raw water in for what was the toilet flush (not sure about using this either), and two intakes for the raw water that goes to the heat exchanger.