Delivery from Baltimore to N Shore LI- lessons learned

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DavidM

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I just got back from helping a TF member deliver his new (to him) boat from Baltimore to the N Shore of Long Island. It was a relatively easy trip and we made it in two days of hard 10 hour runs.

The boat was fully surveyed- both hull and engine before purchase. The boat was repowered from gassers to diesels less than ten years ago and I must say that the twin Cummins 370s and NL genset installation was first class. We had full instrumentation for those engines at the helm including EGT, boost pressure and Flowscans. The new owner will get good service from those engines and the PO dropped somewhere near $100K on the repower job but sold the boat for the price of gassers. Such is the case for big money put into an old boat.

The boat, a 1987 Searay 410 aft cabin MY may turn out not to be the best for this new large cruiser owner. The side decks are at least 5' above the water line so it takes a stair case on dock to board from that location or clamber up a hanging ladder. You can also board from the swim platform and then climb up a ladder to the aft sun deck which is about 6' above the waterline. Not going to be easy to manage a dinghy or general boarding with that layout.

But it does have a nice layout inside. With no helm below the space provides a big salon, a galley and dinette below, an aft queen berth and two forward single berths. Here is the listing: https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/sea-ray-41-aft-cabin-3504632/?refSource=enhanced%20listing

My first afternoon before departure was spent going over the boat. No real surprises and everything seemed to work so we prepared for a morning departure.

The boat handled beautifully at low speed getting out of the dock and fairway with just a little engine power: P and S, fore and aft. One thing I discovered is the wierd throttle/shift configuration. Both shifts are on the port side and both throttles are on the starboard side. Never seen that before but if you kept in mind what you were doing it worked fine. It might actually be easier to operate than the more typical configuration.

Throttling up to cruising speed of 15 kts at 2,450 rpm was a breeze and then I tried wot for a minute and noted as did the surveyor that the boat is over propped by 150 and would only reach 2,850. The Flowscans showed 27 gph at the cruising speed but a later fill to fill measurement indicated more like 24 gph. That is about 230 hp per engine. Tried slowing down which would be better for an over propped engine, but the plane wasn't as clean and I decided to keep running at 15 kts and 2,450 rpm.

The first major glitch occurred later that afternoon about half way between Cape May and Atlantic City. The helm started catching as you turned it which is a sure sign of low hydraulic oil. Discussed with the owner about getting a fill kit at Atlantic City but he suggested checking the helm cabinet and low and behold two full bottles of Seastar hydraulic fluid and a fill kit. So I hooked it up and gave the helm an intravenous injection underway which solved the problem.

Another problem which plagued us the entire trip were spurious alarm beeps. We never could get to the bottom of this and it was a bit annoying, but oil pressure and engine temps were good if a little on the high side and we kept going.

We pulled into Farley Marina at Atlantic City and hooked up to 50A shore power. We only got power on one of the two 110 legs. Tried a different outlet and it was the same. The dock hand was going to call his electrician but I was pretty sure it was the boat side and not the dock side so I wiggled the connector and sparks jumped inside. Hmmm!

So I disassembled the connector and found the contacts so corroded I couldn't get continuity from some pins to the wire connector terminals. This was an integrated power cord that pushed out and in with a flick of a switch so it wasn't easy to replace. So we gave up and started the genset for A/C, lights, and hot water. Twice one of the three A/C units tripped the breaker and lugged down the genset when the compressor tried to start. So we turned the offending unit off and got by fine with just fore and aft A/Cs.

The next day was pretty uneventful from a boat perspective, but going around Manhatten up the East River through Hell's Gate was an eye opener. I had done this route 4-5 times before, the last one being 3-4 years ago and what I remembered is after clearing the Battery and the Staten Island ferry docks things settle down. Not so with all of the commuter boats running around churning up the river. This was a Sunday afternoon and I swear I passed a dozen such boats. The river didn't settle down until just before Hell's Gate.

I had mistakenly thought that there were speed restrictions on the East River but those commuter boats didn't know it. So once past the worst of it I throttled up to 15 kts. We ran Hell's Gate with a 3 kt current against us, but at 15 kts it was no sweat.

We arrived at a little mooring basin just to the east of Port Jefferson on LI about 4:30, grabbed a mooring and celebrated a great trip.

One real lesson here: when it is a 30+ year old boat, surveys can't catch it all. The new owner will have his hands full dealing with all of these and other issues we found over our two days. Some may be easy to fix like the power cord and some may be vexing like the spurious alarms and the A/C tripping the breaker.

David
 
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When you grabbed a mooring just east of PJ, what was stenciled on it? If it was mine you owe me $1.50/foot. LMAO.
 
We didn't just "grab a mooring". We tied up to the mooring assigned to us by Ralph's in Mt Sinai Harbor, a transient yellow ball.


David
 
Nice run.
I bet there was 2 bottles of steering fluid for a reason. There is a leak hidden somewhere and the PO knew it.
My Phoenix and Carver both had gears to port and throttles to starboard of the wheel. I found that was pretty common.
 
Nice run.
I bet there was 2 bottles of steering fluid for a reason. There is a leak hidden somewhere and the PO knew it.
My Phoenix and Carver both had gears to port and throttles to starboard of the wheel. I found that was pretty common.

Ditto my GB
 
I am the owner of the boat that David helped me bring to Long Island. David nailed the essence of our trip. He is such a fine gentlemen with a teachers mentality hopefully I can remember half of what he told and showed me. Probably got my hands full with some of the items that need attention but one by one I will address them. In regards to the survey(s) I am not sure what worth they are, not saying they weren't helpful but geez some of the things David pointed out should have been picked up. Live and learn I guess! Thanks Again to David!!
 
I just got back from helping a TF member deliver his new (to him) boat from Baltimore to the N Shore of Long Island. It was a relatively easy trip and we made it in two days of hard 10 hour runs.

The boat was fully surveyed- both hull and engine before purchase. The boat was repowered from gassers to diesels less than ten years ago and I must say that the twin Cummins 370s and NL genset installation was first class. We had full instrumentation for those engines at the helm including EGT, boost pressure and Flowscans. The new owner will get good service from those engines and the PO dropped somewhere near $100K on the repower job but sold the boat for the price of gassers. Such is the case for big money put into an old boat.

The boat, a 1987 Searay 410 aft cabin MY may turn out not to be the best for this new large cruiser owner. The side decks are at least 5' above the water line so it takes a stair case on dock to board from that location or clamber up a hanging ladder. You can also board from the swim platform and then climb up a ladder to the aft sun deck which is about 6' above the waterline. Not going to be easy to manage a dinghy or general boarding with that layout.

But it does have a nice layout inside. With no helm below the space provides a big salon, a galley and dinette below, an aft queen berth and two forward single berths. Here is the listing: https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/sea-ray-41-aft-cabin-3504632/?refSource=enhanced%20listing

My first afternoon before departure was spent going over the boat. No real surprises and everything seemed to work so we prepared for a morning departure.

The boat handled beautifully at low speed getting out of the dock and fairway with just a little engine power: P and S, fore and aft. One thing I discovered is the wierd throttle/shift configuration. Both shifts are on the port side and both throttles are on the starboard side. Never seen that before but if you kept in mind what you were doing it worked fine. It might actually be easier to operate than the more typical configuration.

Throttling up to cruising speed of 15 kts at 2,450 rpm was a breeze and then I tried wot for a minute and noted as did the surveyor that the boat is over propped by 150 and would only reach 2,850. The Flowscans showed 27 gph at the cruising speed but a later fill to fill measurement indicated more like 24 gph. That is about 230 hp per engine. Tried slowing down which would be better for an over propped engine, but the plane wasn't as clean and I decided to keep running at 15 kts and 2,450 rpm.

The first major glitch occurred later that afternoon about half way between Cape May and Atlantic City. The helm started catching as you turned it which is a sure sign of low hydraulic oil. Discussed with the owner about getting a fill kit at Atlantic City but he suggested checking the helm cabinet and low and behold two full bottles of Seastar hydraulic fluid and a fill kit. So I hooked it up and gave the helm an intravenous injection underway which solved the problem.

Another problem which plagued us the entire trip were spurious alarm beeps. We never could get to the bottom of this and it was a bit annoying, but oil pressure and engine temps were good if a little on the high side and we kept going.

We pulled into Farley Marina at Atlantic City and hooked up to 50A shore power. We only got power on one of the two 110 legs. Tried a different outlet and it was the same. The dock hand was going to call his electrician but I was pretty sure it was the boat side and not the dock side so I wiggled the connector and sparks jumped inside. Hmmm!

So I disassembled the connector and found the contacts so corroded I couldn't get continuity from some pins to the wire connector terminals. This was an integrated power cord that pushed out and in with a flick of a switch so it wasn't easy to replace. So we gave up and started the genset for A/C, lights, and hot water. Twice one of the three A/C units tripped the breaker and lugged down the genset when the compressor tried to start. So we turned the offending unit off and got by fine with just fore and aft A/Cs.

The next day was pretty uneventful from a boat perspective, but going around Manhatten up the East River through Hell's Gate was an eye opener. I had done this route 4-5 times before, the last one being 3-4 years ago and what I remembered is after clearing the Battery and the Staten Island ferry docks things settle down. Not so with all of the commuter boats running around churning up the river. This was a Sunday afternoon and I swear I passed a dozen such boats. The river didn't settle down until just before Hell's Gate.

I had mistakenly thought that there were speed restrictions on the East River but those commuter boats didn't know it. So once past the worst of it I throttled up to 15 kts. We ran Hell's Gate with a 3 kt current against us, but at 15 kts it was no sweat.

We arrived at a little mooring basin just to the east of Port Jefferson on LI about 4:30, grabbed a mooring and celebrated a great trip.

One real lesson here: when it is a 30+ year old boat, surveys can't catch it all. The new owner will have his hands full dealing with all of these and other issues we found over our two days. Some may be easy to fix like the power cord and some may be vexing like the spurious alarms and the A/C tripping the breaker.

David

Throttling up to cruising speed of 15 kts at 2,450 rpm was a breeze and then I tried wot for a minute and noted as did the surveyor that the boat is over propped by 150 and would only reach 2,850. The Flowscans showed 27 gph at the cruising speed but a later fill to fill measurement indicated more like 24 gph. That is about 230 hp per engine. Tried slowing down which would be better for an over propped engine, but the plane wasn't as clean and I decided to keep running at 15 kts and 2,450 rpm"

Sounds like a great trip. Curious where the pyro sensor was mounted and what boost and EGT readings you were getting at that 2,450 rpm?
Especially when you were running swells if that was the case.
 
I am the owner of the boat that David helped me bring to Long Island. David nailed the essence of our trip. He is such a fine gentlemen with a teachers mentality hopefully I can remember half of what he told and showed me. Probably got my hands full with some of the items that need attention but one by one I will address them. In regards to the survey(s) I am not sure what worth they are, not saying they weren't helpful but geez some of the things David pointed out should have been picked up. Live and learn I guess! Thanks Again to David!!

Hello Larman ,
Congratulations on the new boat in Mt. Sinai, This is a great area to cruise in with so many places to go.
Sounds like a great trip. Curious where the pyro sensor was mounted and what boost and EGT readings you were getting at that 2,450 rpm?
Especially when you were running swells if that was the case.
 
The pyro was located in the insulated part of the riser, after the turbo and before the injection elbow.


At 2,450 rpm and making about 230 hp the boost was 12-14 psi and the EGT was about 900 F.


David
 
My Phoenix and Carver both had gears to port and throttles to starboard of the wheel. I found that was pretty common.

Ditto my Chris Craft and my Jefferson. Also, my friend's Silverton had gears to port and throttles to starboard.
 
Congratulations on the new boat, Larman and on the successful delivery, David.
 
Put together a video of our trip:


and Part 2



Great videos and trip. We have been through the city many times and can appreciate the current and the way your vessel handled it.

Your video says you were cruising at 17 knots what was the rpm, pyro, boost and fuel readings at that speed?
Were the pyro and boost readings always matched port and stb?
What technique did you use to balance the engines pt and stb?

A good trick we learned is to snap some pictures of all the gages at various speeds to act as a baseline for further comparison in the future.

It will be great to get really accustomed to your new boat in the next days and weeks.
 
I posted that data in post #10. I think the 17 kts reported in the video was with current. The dead water speed was always 15 kts except in and out of ports.


And FWIW the fill to fill data showed both engines burning exactly the same fuel. The port tank feeds the port engine, etc and there is no way to cross connect or equalize the tanks.



The boat did not have synchronizers so we just matched the rpm within about 10 manually. Never heard any beating when they were off though.


And as others have pointed out, combining shift and throttles port and starboard seems to be the more prevalent style. It did require you to pay attention when turning the boat using reverse while docking. But we didn't have any wind when docking so I could take it slow while backing in and think through the actions first.


David
 
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I posted that data in post #10. I think the 17 kts reported in the video was with current. The dead water speed was always 15 kts except in and out of ports.



The boat did not have synchronizers so we just matched the rpm within about 10 manually. Never heard any beating when they were off though.


And as others have pointed out, combining shift and throttles port and starboard seems to be the more prevalent style. It did require you to pay attention when turning the boat using reverse while docking. But we didn't have any wind when docking so I could take it slow while backing in and think through the actions first.


David

"I posted that data in post #10. I think the 17 kts reported in the video was with current. The dead water speed was always 15 kts except in and out of ports."

Interesting - it seems like the video was saying that you were in the Atlantic at that time cruising north and I do not remember ever getting a tail current near like that.
 
Put together a video of our trip:


and Part 2




Even with the limited data that is on this thread I would suggest that you take quick action in removing some pitch from the props and/or swapping props if the pitch reduction is not possible
Not knowing your prop specs, your trans ratios, the bottom condition of the boat and your anticipated loading of that boat it is unknown how much you should take out
A good rule of thumb especially with those engines is to underprop boat.
Doing the props now will serve you very well with extended engine life, efficiency, and often even speed all.
On Long Island you have a number of options for good props shops and a haul should not be so painful this time of year.
Your prop shop will need your current data on trans ratio, current top speed with accurate rpm and your desired results along with the existing props.
Might want to check the backlog if any of the prop shop you choose before scheduling the balance of the project.
 
Sorry for the newbie question, I am told I am over propped not sure how that works. In my mind over propping would mean more speed. In this case I am under the desired RPM and speed? Can this wait until after the season is over when its hauled etc? The bottom was cleaned at the survey last month.
 
Sorry for the newbie question, I am told I am over propped not sure how that works. In my mind over propping would mean more speed. In this case I am under the desired RPM and speed? Can this wait until after the season is over when its hauled etc? The bottom was cleaned at the survey last month.

If it were my boat it would be the first thing I would do.
You can always cruise the boat at hull speed safely - your pyro and boost gages are very valuable tools with these diesel engines.

If you do not change pitch now these things will likely happen shortly:
- Your hull will grain growth
- Your running gear will gain growth
- The boat will take on a lot of weight as you "move aboard"
- You will cruise in rising temps and humidity's as the season extends
- You may also cruise in fresh water sometime this season

Any of these will continue to reduce your rpm while they raise your EGT and internal engines temperatures. Combined 2 or more of these will get you to a problem areas rather shortly.
If your pyros are not correct now, if they are not positioned in the central flame kernel, if you did not record the highest readings while cruising then you could be into the limit already.
Those engines are more valuable than the boat - they could/should last a lifetime.
So again if it were me - I would cruise at hull speeds or re-pitch ASAP.
Just my experience and by speaking with dozens of similar setups over the years.
 
Thanks for the information. Funny how my surveyor did not mention any of this as I may have been able to negotiate this to be completed before closing.
 
Larry:

Sorry I forgot to go over this point in detail when we were together. I think your surveyor was a bit obtuse. He asterisked the wot rpms which indicated it was a problem, but he never said so explicitly.

If an engine is over propped that means that the prop is demanding more hp than the engine can make at rated rpm so the engine slows down until the hp required by the prop equals the hp it can make. In your case the engine could only get to about 2,850 rpm. That also means at lower rpms it is lugging, just like driving a car up a hill in too high a gear. Downshift a gear or two and the engine speeds up and is much happier. The same is true of boat engines, raise the wot rpm to a bit over 3,000 (to allow for future bottom growth) and the engine will be happier even at lower rpms. A happier engine will last longer.


When we were delivering your boat it would have been better to slow it down even below the 2,450 rpm we ran to put less load on it. But the boat seemed to drop off plane a bit as the speed dropped significantly when I reduced the rpms to 2,300. I think 2,300 resulted in 12-13 kts. That implied that the lower speed was probably not on a clean plane and was pulling even more hp than it should.

So I chose 2,450 as a compromise between low enough and to let it stay on a clean, efficient plane.

Having said all of that, buy a phototach. Amazon and eBay sells them for about $20. You then put a strip of white tape on the flywheel, then rev the engine (use ear plugs) out of gear until it shows 3,000 on the helm tach and read the phototach. Then mentally (or maybe those Flowscan tachs have adjustments) adjust any reading you get on the helm tach by that same percentage. Do this for both tachs and engines.

Then take the boat out, warm it up and then advance the throttle to wot and see what rpm on each engine you get (adjusted by the phototach factor) and speed. Then go to a good prop shop in your area and give them that data, the diameter, pitch and number of blades on your props and see if they can rework the props to reduce the pitch. A rule of thumb is an inch of pitch reduces wot rpms by 100 and the most you can change is 2", so it just might work for you. Otherwise you have to buy new props.

Can you use the boat the rest of the season? Yes, but keep it down to 2,450, and don't run between 1,800 and 2,300 because that speed is the getting over the hump speed or not such a clean plane like I said above.

In doing so you are taking a bit of life out of your engine, but you decide. Boas are made for fun. If you run it below 1,800 you are so far below the wot speed that it won't matter how it is propped. And you will save lots of fuel.

When you do repitch the props you will notice that the engine has to rev to say 2,550 to reach 15 kts. That is fine. The engine will be happier turning a bit faster to make the same hp as before, just like downshifting a gear.

The other thing to do which will pay out tremendously if your engine ever overheats is to add an exhaust gas temp or exhaust gas flow alarms. Borel make the former and Aqualarm makes the latter. I like Borel's alarm because it has no moving parts to stick and is easy to install.


You wrap a narrow sensing strap around the exhaust hose just below the mixer and then wire it to the alarm on the helm. You do have to find a source of DC power at the helm, but there is lots of stuff powered up there and you may find a DC supply terminal strip underneath the helm. The alarm goes off when the hose hits 165 F and that gives plenty of time to react and back off the throttle.


Without that alarm you have to watch the engine temp gauge rigorously and in some cases you can do damage to an engine by losing raw water flow even though the coolant temp gauge barely moves, particularly at high speeds and engine loads.


You have a pair of one of the best engines made, but they can put out a lot of power, so protect them with that alarm.


David
 
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Thanks for the information. Funny how my surveyor did not mention any of this as I may have been able to negotiate this to be completed before closing.

I do not know what you hired the surveyor to do but unless he was able to seatrial the boat and do a WOT test he never would see this. Also he would have had to now exactly which engines ahead of time and be familiar with diesels as they are transplants I believe.

You are in a great area to boat - many places to go and see. Are you going to utilize Mt Sinai as your base for this season?
 
Larry:

Sorry I forgot to go over this point in detail when we were together. I think your surveyor was a bit obtuse. He asterisked the wot rpms which indicated it was a problem, but he never said so explicitly.

If an engine is over propped that means that the prop is demanding more hp than the engine can make at rated rpm so the engine slows down until the hp required by the prop equals the hp it can make. In your case the engine could only get to about 2,850 rpm. That also means at lower rpms it is lugging, just like driving a car up a hill in too high a gear. Downshift a gear or two and the engine speeds up and is much happier. The same is true of boat engines, raise the wot rpm to a bit over 3,000 (to allow for future bottom growth) and the engine will be happier even at lower rpms. A happier engine will last longer.


When we were delivering your boat it would have been better to slow it down even below the 2,450 rpm we ran to put less load on it. But the boat seemed to drop off plane a bit as the speed dropped significantly when I reduced the rpms to 2,300. I think 2,300 resulted in 12-13 kts. That implied that the lower speed was probably not on a clean plane and was pulling even more hp than it should.

So I chose 2,450 as a compromise between low enough and to let it stay on a clean, efficient plane.

Having said all of that, buy a phototach. Amazon and eBay sells them for about $20. You then put a strip of white tape on the flywheel, then rev the engine (use ear plugs) out of gear until it shows 3,000 on the helm tach and read the phototach. Then mentally (or maybe those Flowscan tachs have adjustments) adjust any reading you get on the helm tach by that same percentage. Do this for both tachs and engines.

Then take the boat out, warm it up and then advance the throttle to wot and see what rpm on each engine you get (adjusted by the phototach factor) and speed. Then go to a good prop shop in your area and give them that data, the diameter, pitch and number of blades on your props and see if they can rework the props to reduce the pitch. A rule of thumb is an inch of pitch reduces wot rpms by 100 and the most you can change is 2", so it just might work for you. Otherwise you have to buy new props.

Can you use the boat the rest of the season? Yes, but keep it down to 2,450, and don't run between 1,800 and 2,300 because that speed is the getting over the hump speed or not such a clean plane like I said above.

In doing so you are taking a bit of life out of your engine, but you decide. Boas are made for fun. If you run it below 1,800 you are so far below the wot speed that it won't matter how it is propped. And you will save lots of fuel.

When you do repitch the props you will notice that the engine has to rev to say 2,550 to reach 15 kts. That is fine. The engine will be happier turning a bit faster to make the same hp as before, just like downshifting a gear.

The other thing to do which will pay out tremendously if your engine ever overheats is to add an exhaust gas temp or exhaust gas flow alarms. Borel make the former and Aqualarm makes the latter. I like Borel's alarm because it has no moving parts to stick and is easy to install.


You wrap a narrow sensing strap around the exhaust hose just below the mixer and then wire it to the alarm on the helm. You do have to find a source of DC power at the helm, but there is lots of stuff powered up there and you may find a DC supply terminal strip underneath the helm. The alarm goes off when the hose hits 165 F and that gives plenty of time to react and back off the throttle.


Without that alarm you have to watch the engine temp gauge rigorously and in some cases you can do damage to an engine by losing raw water flow even though the coolant temp gauge barely moves, particularly at high speeds and engine loads.


You have a pair of one of the best engines made, but they can put out a lot of power, so protect them with that alarm.


David


Hello David - I agree with everything you say maybe expect for some of these:
"I think 2,300 resulted in 12-13 kts."
I agree - those shorter narrower hulls with the diesels tend to drop the stern a lot at lower speeds and cause that issue.

"You then put a strip of white tape on the flywheel, then rev the engine (use ear plugs) out of gear until it shows 3,000 on the helm tach and read the phototach."
Agree - also rev up and down (ramp) a bit slower than you would normally think. Record the top rpm on each engine - this should be about 300 in excess of rated WOT rpm. Your rating is 3,000 so high idle would be 3,300.

"Can you use the boat the rest of the season? Yes, but keep it down to 2,450,"
Do not agree - by the end of the season that 2,450 rpm might be a firewalled number. I guarantee the rpm's will drop due to increasing loads adding heat and stress over the next weeks/months.

"You have a pair of one of the best engines made,"
The 6B is also sensitive to internal heat and so is a delicate engine when it is rated at this HP and when utilized in an overloaded condition.
 
Smitty said:

""Can you use the boat the rest of the season? Yes, but keep it down to 2,450,"
Do not agree - by the end of the season that 2,450 rpm might be a firewalled number. I guarantee the rpm's will drop due to increasing loads adding heat and stress over the next weeks/months."

Smitty has a good point. I would use those engines at 2,450 only if the wot rpms stayed at 2,850. Presumably that high speed would keep some of the bottom slime off, but who knows what the bottom paint is like.

I think Larry will probably mostly use the boat at displacement speeds. 24-27 gph and $500+ fill ups was an eye opener. That is why we like slow trawlers, right!!!!

David
 
I am researching for a prop shop. I have one local but I am not sure if there work is good. Not sure what the turn around time would be? Also need to find out where I can get a haul out. I don’t plan on going faster than 10 knots or haul speed I will be well under the 2450 rpms so if I get some crazy prices it will wait till end of season when I haul out for the winter.
 
Not exactly near you but if you don't get other recommendations...
I can recommend Precision Propellers in Poughkeepsie. I have dealt w Gabe on a few occasions and I have been very pleased. He worked miracles on a set of IPS props and that made me a believer.
https://www.precision-props.com/
 
Well if I haven't missed something, the PO ran the boat that way for 10 years since repower. Hard to imagine how the 11th summer is gonna be the deal killer.
 
I do not know what you hired the surveyor to do but unless he was able to seatrial the boat and do a WOT test he never would see this. Also he would have had to now exactly which engines ahead of time and be familiar with diesels as they are transplants I believe.

You are in a great area to boat - many places to go and see. Are you going to utilize Mt Sinai as your base for this season?

I hired both a boat surveyor and engine surveyor. The boat was sea trialed at wot.
 
I am researching for a prop shop. I have one local but I am not sure if there work is good. Not sure what the turn around time would be? Also need to find out where I can get a haul out. I don’t plan on going faster than 10 knots or haul speed I will be well under the 2450 rpms so if I get some crazy prices it will wait till end of season when I haul out for the winter.

At 10 knots you should be fine - check the pyros at 10 knots they may not even be off the post.
FWIW - at 10 knots your fuel efficiency may be very near that of 16 knots.
At 8 knots you will likely get almost double the nmpg.
And at 6 knots you will likely get almost triple the mileage from 10 knots.
It would be great of you could plan some of your travel around the Long Island tides/currents as well - sometimes its easy to do that.
 
I hired both a boat surveyor and engine surveyor. The boat was sea trialed at wot.

Then the survey should contain the strobed and corrected rpm at WOT.
It would typically state the rated rpm and all gage readings as well as any comments on the deviations seen.
It should also have a baseline for all the gages at a couple or more rpms.
 
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